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Sagebrush posted:I don't see any gaps where gas could escape. You stick that thing back on and keep riding until it's actually a horrible mechanical failure Oh you bet gas was escaping. Instead of blowing a gap out of the gasket out it just hotspotted and MELTED the gasket like that. It lost power and made more noise for a few miles until it completely lost compression about a mile from home.
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Jan 18, 2015 23:40
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| # ? May 26, 2024 17:42 |
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These last few pages have been incredibly eye-opening as to the places that human beings, absent all common sense or self-awareness, will consciously choose to live and work.
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Jan 18, 2015 23:48
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The Toyota 1ZZ-FE heats up shockingly fast in the winter. Quick enough that as a BMW owner I was initially convinced that the cooling system was hosed. My wife loves our Corolla for this reason and nothing else.
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Jan 19, 2015 07:54
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The Ecotec L61 (and I assume most other ecotecs) also heats up shockingly fast; I'm sure mostly because both the head and block are aluminum. ... when the loving thermostat isn't sticking open anyway. Last winter I usually had some heat by the time I got out of my subdivision. On cold days this winter I'm lucky if I have heat by the time I get to work (4 miles away), and this winter has been so mild that it may as well be fall or early spring. Today was close to 70F, so not only did it warm up nearly instantly, the check engine light didn't reappear (always the same code - P0128 - which basically says "your poo poo is running too cold"). I suspect the thermostat is just flat out stuck in one position at this point, as over the last summer it tended to be a bit warm blooded unless I kept the a/c on (which forced the radiator fan to stay on, and even then the gauge would creep up with hills). My Altima's KA24DE took for-loving-ever to heat up, even in the summer. Largish 4 cylinder with an iron block. At least the thermostat on it was easy to get to, and all of $7. The thermostat for my Ion (with the L61) is  (and looks almost identical to the one that went into the Nissan, just a bit longer  )randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Jan 19, 2015 |
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Jan 19, 2015 08:59
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Memento posted:These last few pages have been incredibly eye-opening as to the places that human beings, absent all common sense or self-awareness, will consciously choose to live and work. Not everyone can live in socal or Hawaii. After that it becomes a matter of which sort of weather extremes you'd rather put up with.
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Jan 19, 2015 09:12
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Some of us get raging boners over severe thunderstorms - the storms are the biggest reason I stay in DFW. Tornadoes can gently caress right off if they get near houses, but if they're just ripping up wide open areas, they're cool to watch (from a faaaaaaaaaar distance - I have no interest in winding up like Tim Samaras, but it'd be awesome to get some good glass and get close enough to get some orgasm-inducing photos).
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Jan 19, 2015 09:32
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STOP loving SPERGING ABOUT HOW ANYTHING BELOW 50 DEGREES IS COLD, HOLY poo poo. Horrible rust bucket failure. This would explain why my car handled weird in corners... 
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Jan 19, 2015 15:02
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chrisgt posted:STOP loving SPERGING ABOUT HOW ANYTHING BELOW 50 DEGREES IS COLD, HOLY poo poo. How the gently caress is the captive nut thread still that clean?
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Jan 19, 2015 15:17
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My guess is that it just had the bolt removed from it. A better question is how is that captive nut still captive?
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Jan 19, 2015 16:11
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Hillridge posted:My guess is that it just had the bolt removed from it. A better question is how is that captive nut still captive? Very good welding parameters.
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Jan 19, 2015 19:16
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It's held on by either rust, or Subaru black voodoo magic spotwelds. Which hold on long enough for you to get the bolt out, maybe, but don't push your luck by trying to put it back in afterwards because you will regret it. (I've read too many horror stories of people unbolting a rotten-rear end rear subframe without losing any weldnuts, then trying to bolt it back in with brand new bolts and 2-3 of the weldnuts break off the frame before bottoming out, leaving them in a horrible no mans land of car-fuckitude. This is why I bought enough of the right size nuts to simply replace all of the chassis weldnuts with not-weldnuts instead of even trying to reuse the factory ones.)
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Jan 19, 2015 19:26
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I found that using 1" pipe insulation works really well on the lower grill of my Golf. Forgot to put them on this year but then again it's only been below 0 once this entire winter. Also, insulated garages are awesome. No matter how cold outside it gets, my garage never seems to fall below about 35 
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Jan 22, 2015 21:05
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I just don't like keeping a vehicle in an enclosed sealed space above freezing when it's been marinating in salt spray and is put away wet. Rust city.
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Jan 22, 2015 21:20
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bull3964 posted:I just don't like keeping a vehicle in an enclosed sealed space above freezing when it's been marinating in salt spray and is put away wet. Rust city. Its an electrochemical reaction, frozen or not if that salt is with some dihyrogen monoxide hanging around on your vehicle, its going to cause rust to exposed metal. It'll just be a LITTLE slower.
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Jan 22, 2015 21:22
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Yes, but chemical reactions are sped up by heat. Why help it along?
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Jan 22, 2015 21:25
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Ambient humidity outside in the winter (especially below freezing) is going to be far far far less than an enclosed garage. That means that a) your car dries out quicker and b) there's less water around to participate in the reaction. It's not so much the heat as the fact that warmer air is going to hold on to higher humidity levels.
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Jan 22, 2015 21:27
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Thank god they don't use salt in Colorado
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Jan 22, 2015 22:20
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Something I've been wondering is if washing your car at the end of the day after exposure to road salt would be effective enough to keep it from rusting or at least minimize the extent of it. Sure washing your car in near or below freezing temperatures isn't ideal for a lot of people and you'll end up going through a lot of water if you have to do it every day plus you'll have to be meticulous with the car's underside but if it means mitigating rust it could be something to look into. Especially if it can be convenient, effective, financially economical and (somewhat) environmentally friendly.
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Jan 22, 2015 22:48
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Edward IV posted:Something I've been wondering is if washing your car at the end of the day after exposure to road salt would be effective enough to keep it from rusting or at least minimize the extent of it. Sure washing your car in near or below freezing temperatures isn't ideal for a lot of people and you'll end up going through a lot of water if you have to do it every day plus you'll have to be meticulous with the car's underside but if it means mitigating rust it could be something to look into. Especially if it can be convenient, effective, financially economical and (somewhat) environmentally friendly. Yes, as washing the car lowers the amount of salt that remains on the car.
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Jan 22, 2015 22:50
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A buddy and I actually came up with a solution for that in high school.. some kind of show curtain you could install in your garage that would rinse off the vehicle as you entered. Maybe something that squirted up from the floor as well to handle the undercarriage. What can I say, there's not much else to talk about in the middle of winter up in Alaska. We were loving nerds about clean cars, and did many runs to the manual car wash in sub-freezing weather. It's not too painful as long as you avoid getting sprayed.
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Jan 22, 2015 22:55
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xzzy posted:A buddy and I actually came up with a solution for that in high school.. some kind of show curtain you could install in your garage that would rinse off the vehicle as you entered. Maybe something that squirted up from the floor as well to handle the undercarriage. The four-bay manual wash near me is run by a bunch of pussies and close up shop whenever it dips below -15. The result is that as soon as it warms up even a bit it's so clogged with people I can't get in unless I want to line up for an hour.
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Jan 22, 2015 22:57
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The drive through car washes out here have a deal where you can buy unlimited (once per day) washes for 20 bucks. I usually buy that for the snowy months. But I no longer give a poo poo if my car is clean or dirty anymore because I know I'm trading it in within the next 6-8 months.
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Jan 22, 2015 23:07
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xzzy posted:Maybe something that squirted up from the floor as well to handle the undercarriage.
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Jan 22, 2015 23:52
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Buy an old garage with the pit in the floor for car maintenance, put in a regular old lawn sprinkler, a fan, a way for the water to drain and there you go. Salt stops eating your car Of course they're banned in most places because people asphyxiated on the heavier gasses that would accumulate down there, but as long as you can keep it ventilated, you should be fine The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jan 23, 2015 |
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Jan 23, 2015 01:09
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e: nvm
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Jan 23, 2015 01:15
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I would think it wouldn't be too hard for some electronics nerd to rig something up using an electric eye connected to a motorized ball valve and a timer of some sort. Get a length of garden hose long enough to run from the outdoor spigot and stretch across the driveway. Put motorized valve before it, and close up the open end. Turn on water. Drill small holes in the section of hose stretching across the driveway, and find a way to anchor the hose in place on both sides so that the holes are always facing up. Drive the car into the driveway, break the electric eye beam, the valve opens and water starts shooting out of the holes you drilled in the hose. Drive slowly over it, park car, timer runs out, valve closes back up, done. Of course, you'd probably have to figure out a way to keep a tiny bit of water flowing through it at all times so it doesn't freeze up. Or just eliminate all the electronic poo poo and manually turn the water on whenever you want to blast off the salt, but that won't get you any nerd cred. 
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Jan 23, 2015 01:35
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why use a laser when you can use a radio controlled actuator to open the valve and have it remote controlled? That way something besides your car breaking the beam doesn't turn it on. Maybe it's funnier the other way though
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Jan 23, 2015 01:41
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rscott posted:why use a laser when you can use a radio controlled actuator to open the valve and have it remote controlled? That way something besides your car breaking the beam doesn't turn it on. You guys are all dumb. Wire it to start spraying when the garage door opener gets the radio signal as a simple on/off, it's easier that way and eliminates the chance that you'll accidentally spray yourself
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Jan 23, 2015 01:44
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I figured a lot of the real rust damage was in areas that hold water really well and even a good spray/wash will likely miss them. I figure the salt spray at 60mph is going all over and your hose may not have the same penetration in all the nooks and whatnot.
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Jan 23, 2015 02:02
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I figured a lot of the real rust damage was in areas that hold water really well and even a good spray/wash This is a realistic opinion. Local (southern Wis) highway dept plow trucks go through an intense undercarriage spray every day and have still gone through oil pans like crazy until aluminum ones were ordered the last couple years.
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Jan 23, 2015 02:13
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Yeah, if you look where rust starts, it's inside things. Capillary action sucks, and it's hard to get water to evaporate out of places where it's not really exposed to the atmosphere much. Pinch welds? Spot welds? Especially ones that get grit and dirt trapped over them, adding more moisture-holding capacity? Insides of frames? Yeah, you're hosed. Big open expanses of flat sheetmetal and the tops of things usually survive just fine, you may notice. If you see rust coming through in the middle of a big panel there is almost always a reason, like a Mazda logo poked through badly treated mounting holes (or gently caress, just a Mazda logo period), paint damage, or sometihng attached to the panel from the back at that location.
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Jan 23, 2015 03:07
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It's interesting that you guys condemn Mazdas as being rust buckets. I see imports of all flavours from japan where I assume they salt the roads, and the worst offenders are by far Nissan. Especially the various vans/people carriers which always rot at the junction of the floor pan and rear wheel arches because Nissan use a different construction method for these areas compared to most brands. Bonus points: rust is invisible from the outside until a subframe falls out because there's a double skin thing going on, and the only way to detect it is to take out the third row seats and remove the carpet.
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Jan 23, 2015 03:19
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Mazdas just rust much sooner and more visibly than most other things I've seen. I've never seen a model/year that didn't have at least one "problem spot" for rust that they are known for eventually. Ashes to ashes, rust to rust, for rust thou art, and unto it thou shalt return. Which is to say, oxygen always wins eventually unless fluorine crashes the party
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Jan 23, 2015 03:22
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I believe a lot of that comes from cars like the Protege5, where the US market badge was installed at port by drilling into the already-painted sheet metal, exposing it to the atmosphere (and salt spray at port, so they rust even if their final market doesn't use road salt).
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Jan 23, 2015 03:24
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Slavvy posted:It's interesting that you guys condemn Mazdas as being rust buckets. I see imports of all flavours from japan where I assume they salt the roads, and the worst offenders are by far Nissan. Especially the various vans/people carriers which always rot at the junction of the floor pan and rear wheel arches because Nissan use a different construction method for these areas compared to most brands. Bonus points: rust is invisible from the outside until a subframe falls out because there's a double skin thing going on, and the only way to detect it is to take out the third row seats and remove the carpet. Most US market Nissans are built in the US or Mexico. Mazda's Mexican plant is already online and most US Mazdas other than the Miata are going to be built there so it won't be an issue in the future.
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Jan 23, 2015 03:27
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Certain years of Mazda 3s actually HAD a warranty extension because of excessive rear quarter panel rust. They at least did have an issue. Every once and awhile during the winter I'll hit a touchless car wash for the undercarriage spray. Mostly though, I drop $1.75 in a coin op car wash bay and use the plain water pressure washer to go over every inch of the car, wheel wells, and crevices. You can get 5 minutes of the pressure washer for under $2 and it usually does a better job than coin op places with soap and everything. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jan 23, 2015 |
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Jan 23, 2015 03:47
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Interrupting rust chat to add some pics to the thread. Don't remember if I've posted these in this thread before but oh well.     And thankfully the following weren't from any of my cars. The horrors of a PO's "just a headgasket"  
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Jan 23, 2015 04:54
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More like horrible welding failures. Saw this in a magazine, I think Home Machinist:  The article said that he used a buzz box. If he was using regular rods and not just hangers or whatever, what would be the cause of welds this bad? It was for a home made tortilla press and the welds are probably not critical and may never break, but drat.
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Jan 23, 2015 05:16
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Horrible Tow Strap Use Failure? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HYqTmYqwkA
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Jan 23, 2015 15:34
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| # ? May 26, 2024 17:42 |
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kastein posted:Yeah, if you look where rust starts, it's inside things. Capillary action sucks, and it's hard to get water to evaporate out of places where it's not really exposed to the atmosphere much. My 58 sat in a field for over 30 years. The car itself isn't very rusty at all, just a bit of surface rust. But the heater channels that got used during the 60s and 70s when they did salt the roads are completely GONE. Salt just loves to eat its way out from the inside. That being said, mag chloride that they use now instead of salt just loves to completely gently caress over bare aluminum.
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Jan 23, 2015 15:52
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