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jammyozzy posted:I'd do some actual car work but the car doesn't ft in my living room. I know them feels. Winter cannot end soon enough!
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Jan 18, 2015 01:53
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Changed the oil and finally swapped out the increasingly sluggish starter motor before it decided to stop working altogether. The last deep freeze we had out here really did a number on what little it had left to do its job.
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Jan 18, 2015 02:59
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Replaced its tarp. It started drizzling again so I figured I had to do something. Maybe someday this year I'll get to actually start improving it, instead of just replacing the tarp one or two times a year as I watch the moss grow on it. Lookin pretty ragged there  There, at least now water won't pool on the floor quite as much due to the missing rear window.  Old and busted, older and less busted.
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Jan 18, 2015 04:33
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Today I took advantage of some good weather (finally!) to sort out some of the niggling jobs on my Mini - mainly why one of the headlamps was even worse than usual: This is on main beam - the medieval torch of the old Lucas logo would probably be more effective  Unsurprisingly it was a bad earth, caused by the usual Mini problem of having a bunch of bullet connectors running behind the front grille where they pick up all the water and dirt. Teased these all apart without breaking any (yay!). None of them looked particularly bad but I cleaned them anyway.  That's better!  Then off to Halfords to buy some metric spanners. There was an American visitor in the car park - I couldn't resist getting a pic of the Mini next to it, which fits within the wheelbase of the Brougham with inches to spare. Afternoon spent helping a friend tune his Opel Manta.  This car is full of Previous Owner Bodges, which include the fitment of a Weber DGV carb with no signs of actual setting up so it runs like absolute poo poo in all conditions.  Another brilliant bit of PO workmanship - air filter gasket made from an old Sunday Mirror supplement.  Cleaned out the fuel bowl, checked the float height and the accelerator pump then put it all back together. I managed to wrestle it into some vague baseline condition so it now actually needs the choke to start from cold, idles at a sensible and stable speed and can go over half throttle without stumbling. It's still not right, especially at full throttle - it might need re-jetting or it could be a problem on the ignition side so that's all for today.
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Jan 18, 2015 17:33
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Replaced my cracked windshield wiper reservoir with a universal one in the International. Surprisingly it fit perfectly in the old spot, and unsurprisingly the old hoses were garbage so I had to make a trip for new ones. Picked up a new ground cable to replace the dreaded clamp style terminal, but I ran out of daylight.
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Jan 19, 2015 01:36
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Got the solenoids changed on the 4runner transmission but the filter I got didn't have a gasket with it. Now I have to wait for that to button it back up. Two of the old solenoids tested bad so it wasn't a wasted effort at least 
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Jan 19, 2015 04:51
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Swapped the coilovers and a few other parts from my S4 to the allroad, which is technically now a "some roads, maybe." Please excuse the stock wheels and snow tires.
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Jan 19, 2015 17:39
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That looks loving awesome.
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Jan 19, 2015 17:43
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Is that a hummer in the background with wheels that arent 20+ inches? Also, you know, fuckin sweet car. Watch out for speed bumps.
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Jan 19, 2015 17:48
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Cage posted:Is that a hummer in the background with wheels that arent 20+ inches? Looks like a Merc G-Wagen. Sweet Allroad, it looks pretty good with the drop.
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Jan 19, 2015 17:50
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Well I learned me a new car today. I want to get a lawn chair and a 6 pack and just hang out at that shop. 
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Jan 19, 2015 17:52
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Cage posted:Well I learned me a new car today. I want to get a lawn chair and a 6 pack and just hang out at that shop. This was also there:  Owner of that 918 has two more on the way. Also owns a P1, Aventador, and a whole bunch of other amazing metal.
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Jan 19, 2015 18:11
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BalloonFish posted:
So, an improvement over the original Solex in that it at least runs! 
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Jan 19, 2015 18:48
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DropShadow posted:Owner of that 918 has two more on the way. Also owns a P1, Aventador, and a whole bunch of other amazing metal. I want to be that rich.
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Jan 19, 2015 19:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:So, an improvement over the original Solex in that it at least runs! Ah, I see you've dealt with old German cars with auto-choke carburetors before, then?
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Jan 19, 2015 19:19
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Diagnosed the trunk locking mechanism.
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Jan 19, 2015 21:56
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I've got both of the suspension knuckles off the rear of my S2k for a bearing/hub replacement. It was my first time popping ball joints and holy poo poo that is a noise.
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Jan 19, 2015 22:54
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Not today but on the weekend I took it on a 300km round trip to the next town over to test out how the new cooling system would handle the heat out west. It didn't even break a sweat while pushing it in 40 degree heat but the same cannot be said for the air-con which I'm pretty sure seized the compressor. After a storm I had to use the wipers to clear the steam from the road off the windscreen.
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Jan 19, 2015 23:50
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Had some good weather so I got out and finally did the two oil pan gaskets on my truck. Also learned the hard way that just because a bolt hasn't bottomed out doesn't mean I'm not over-torquing it.  Hopefully the seal is good because otherwise I just blew several hours loving up my wrists and elbow for no reason.
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Jan 21, 2015 02:41
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did the rear shocks today on the old pig. I also cut out those coil spring boosters. Not sure why they are on there, but its sitting fine with out them.  and then sanded the new fender. I tried prying out the trim off, but its rather brittle, I am going to let the paint shop deal with it. 
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Jan 21, 2015 04:29
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paid it off. ... well, time for another car payment.
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Jan 22, 2015 23:20
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I found out where the oil is leaking from!
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Jan 22, 2015 23:28
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Well I've loving done it now. I tried to loosen the bolts to the crossmember that holds up the transmission side of the engine and one of them sheared off.  Now I need to somehow get the old bolt out of the frame, and a new one in its place. I'm gonna drown the one next to it in pb blaster tomorrow before I try loosening it. Anyone know how to get the old bolt out of the frame?
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Jan 24, 2015 03:06
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Well I've loving done it now. I tried to loosen the bolts to the crossmember that holds up the transmission side of the engine and one of them sheared off. make sure plenty of liquid courage is around. then get a drill with the correct size bit for that bolt. then find someone with an easy out in that size. then drill and insert the easy out. when using the easy out its best to tell it how pretty it is and say other nice things. if and or when the bolt comes out buy a lotto ticket .
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Jan 24, 2015 05:23
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SouthsideSaint posted:make sure plenty of liquid courage is around. then get a drill with the correct size bit for that bolt. then find someone with an easy out in that size. then drill and insert the easy out. when using the easy out its best to tell it how pretty it is and say other nice things. if and or when the bolt comes out buy a lotto ticket . Well the end with the head is still there above that part of the frame. It was the end with the nut on it that sheared off. I'm not sure if the bolt is pressed in there or threaded yet. I just left it on the jackstands for the night because it was dark and cold out already, and that thing shearing killed my drive to finish swapping that engine mount tonight.
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Jan 24, 2015 05:36
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If it's just stuck in there with rust, knock it out with a punch and go buy a new one. If it's threaded in, pray and turn it. Hopefully it comes out. If it's spot welded in, hopefully it will break loose with a punch and a really big hammer. If it's tack welded in, depending on the size of the welds you might be in for a shitfest. What make/model/year? It looks like the part that the bolt is broken off in might be a bolt-on part itself, but I bet that means you'll break 3 more off in the actual unibody when you try to remove it, simply making your life more dismal than it already was. For removing bolts, here's what I like doing: - use a grinder to very carefully make the end of the bolt flat, and 100% perpendicular to the bolt shank. This is important. - use a very sharp center punch (I keep one around that isn't abused specifically for this purpose) to center punch the now-flat end. Make sure it's perfectly centered. - use a spot drill (AKA center drill) to put a small divot say 1/8" deep so the drill will stay centered. - use a drill about 1/3rd the diameter of the bolt to very carefully drill straight up the center of the bolt. Make sure it's exactly centered and drilling straight down the axis of the bolt - it's best to sight down it on a couple planes (imagine axes x/y/z all perpendicular with z going down the center of the bolt, you should sight down it from parallel to x and y to make sure you aren't drilling at an angle) - and go all the way through. Now use progressively larger bits, each one a size or two above the last, until you start seeing a hint of threads, like just the little rusty spiral visible. Pick the first turn or two of threads out with a dental pick or utility knife blade and screwdriver, then run a tap through it to rip the rest of them out. Now you have a perfect original thread. If poo poo goes wrong, gently caress it, get a helicoil kit for that size thread. Or through-bolt it with an equivalent size and hardness bolt if there is room for a nut on the other side, many welded nuts/studs are only used on vehicles to speed assembly line processes up and doing that is perfectly fine.
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Jan 24, 2015 20:09
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kastein posted:If it's just stuck in there with rust, knock it out with a punch and go buy a new one. The bolt has a circular head and doesn't look like it's welded at all so I think it's press fitted in there. The part of the frame it goes into doesn't come off so it has to be taken out while under the car. Is a punch just a strong piece of metal for hammering on? Also I have to do two bolts now because the one next to it sheared too even after dousing it in pb blaster and letting it soak for a while. I didn't dare attempt loosening the nuts at the opposite end of the crossmember after that. I was still able to lower the engine enough to swap out the transmission mount with one end of the crossmember still attached to the frame. So that's all 4 mounts replaced now, and this last one was in the worst condition out of all of them.     I put in the new shifter bushings too while I was under there and the shift lever actually feels like it's connected to something now instead of being a wobbly piece of poo poo.
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Jan 24, 2015 23:08
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If it's got a circular head (and doesn't have an allen or torx socket in the middle of it) and doesn't have any welds you can feel, it's probably either splined in (hopefully) or spot welded. They make special studs for spot welding to chassis that look like this: The little nibs are where the spot welds form. Either way, spot welded or splined is really not that big a deal, it's just a matter of getting enough force in there to pop them loose. I would start with a punch (yeah, just a piece of metal to use to direct the force into a spot smaller than the hammer head, or choose exactly what you're going to hit) and a hammer and if they don't seem to be coming loose and the thing they're attached to is bending, try using either a gear puller if you can find a way to situate it, or a chisel between the head and the back of the metal piece they're stuck into.
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Jan 24, 2015 23:26
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Replaced the ugly, faded driver's side headlight and side marker with shiny new units. Just for the heck of it, I replaced the amber turn signal lenses with clear ones. Yes, it seems silly to do this on an 18-year-old car, but it was only $25. I did run into a problem with the driver's side, though, because the wiring harness for the bulb had gotten caught up somewhere and I had to remove the headlight to get to it properly. When I bought the car almost two years ago, I noticed the air intake hose was being held on at the throttle body with duct tape:  Well, there's your problem! It finally gave way, so I replaced it as well. Also, the check engine light has been on the whole time, but the car was running normally (yeah, yeah, I know, don't yell). I was able to pick up a code reader cheap thanks to some bonus points on a credit card. Luckily, I only had one code - P0401 EGR Flow Insufficient. I cleared the code and will see if replacing the air intake hose will fix the problem.
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Jan 24, 2015 23:40
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I replaced my ground cable then went to the post office, and noticed my passenger side headlight was out - on the same side as the battery. I was very cautious when changing it out, using a multi meter to make sure the harness worked before blowing a new bulb in it. It all seems to work but what a strange coincidence.
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Jan 25, 2015 21:24
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Mister Kingdom posted:P0401 EGR Flow Insufficient. I cleared the code and will see if replacing the air intake hose will fix the problem. It won't.
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Jan 25, 2015 22:11
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Replaced the head unit in my landrover as it had stopped making any noise - probably due to the amount of rain that leaks over/round/through it. Went from an early 00's kenwood to a mid 90's model. Hopefully the simpler model will be less affected by the weather. Also properly wired up a cheat starter switch in my Saab 99 that fires the cold start injector so I can start it without needing to manually spray easy start in it. Proved it worked by moving the car out temporarily so that I could do some wiring in the garage.
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Jan 25, 2015 22:37
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I made a "Best Deal" offer of $475 on this exhaust system on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/170942289044?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT With my credit at Corksport their similar setup would be the same price. But if I can get the Ebay seller to that price I can use my credit on a motor mount and maybe a few other bits. Possibly towards the Accessport since that would be the final piece of the puzzle. Edit: a Mazdaspeed FB group member just sent me a copy of his receipt from RPM where he got the branded Magnaflow version of this exhaust for $455. Hopefully they will price match it. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jan 25, 2015 |
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Jan 25, 2015 22:51
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Finally moved the DSM from my brothers house to my own  Hopefully won't take much to get running again (lol) Also need a load of gravel
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Jan 25, 2015 23:00
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Motronic posted:It won't. Yeah, I just found that out. Guess I'll have to take it to a shop. The CEL stayed off for about 15 minutes. Mister Kingdom fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 01:12
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Changed the oil, ran some seafoam, installed new windshield wipers. It only took me a month to get around to that
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Jan 26, 2015 17:17
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Test fitted budget wheels for the GTV6. They are Citroën C8 16"/7" steelies.  
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Jan 26, 2015 19:12
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DoLittle posted:Test fitted budget wheels for the GTV6. They are Citroën C8 16"/7" steelies. Looks great and I can't put my finger on why, because those steelies are hideous alone. Sold my Fusion to Carmax since I have no time to sell it privately and was only losing money on a car I didn't use. Now a three car household, the wife's Escape, my International, and a company Escape. Looking forward to moving and getting another project!
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Jan 27, 2015 00:42
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I put the ugly, three color Civic up for sale on Craigslist and I've gotten 13 unique texts about it. People sure do love ugly-rear end cars around here.
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Jan 27, 2015 02:17
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Avalon finally got new plates. It's had the same plates since new (it's an 03, purchased in 02); Texas requires new plates every 7 years. We've been bugging the DMV every time we renew the tags about how old the plates are for several years, they keep saying "they're only 5 years old". Then suddenly this year "your plates are 13 years old, you need new plates, why haven't you gotten new plates, you should be getting your 3rd set by now, what's wrong with you"  Just swapped the plates. The dealer didn't even bother with a bracket for the front plate, nor bother with a drill. Just screwed it right into the mother of pearl white bumper (they had to bring the car in from a state that didn't require front plates, after they sold her car out from under her, after she'd paid for it... and tried to give her a base model instead of the fully loaded version she paid for.. still didn't get all the options she'd paid for, then ripped her off on every bit of maintenance they did on it). Not only that, they'd actually glued the "Toyota of Plano" frame to the old plates, and over time, the glue on the front plate had bonded to the front bumper. I've never had to actually pry a license plate off a car, nor had I removed paint when changing plates before.  It took off all the paint around the plate itself. Going to have to pick up some  lovely Walmart license plate frames for it just to cover up the damage - assuming the front plate even stays on. The rear plate was equally stuck, and took a small chunk of paint with it, but didn't just rip the paint off like the front plate did.The front bumper always looked a little mismatched, I've always wondered if it got a new bumper at some point. Mister Kingdom posted:Also, the check engine light has been on the whole time, but the car was running normally (yeah, yeah, I know, don't yell). I was able to pick up a code reader cheap thanks to some bonus points on a credit card. Luckily, I only had one code - P0401 EGR Flow Insufficient. I cleared the code and will see if replacing the air intake hose will fix the problem. It won't. Either your EGR valve isn't opening fully, or the EGR passage is clogged. Most likely the latter. Motronic posted:It won't. Goddamnit.
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Jan 29, 2015 11:45
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