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ChiTownEddie posted:and it begins. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKUOB8MN4Kc
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Jan 25, 2015 01:41
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Goons don't let goons stop brewin' Cant wait to make some ESBs. Speaking of, anyone have good results from a mostly munich esb? Just some carapils for body and minimal 6-row for extra mashing power but all munich otherwise. Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Jan 25, 2015 |
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Jan 25, 2015 01:41
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Also just on the topic of brett stouts, my LHBS guys have been on a real big experimental yeast kick at the moment. They did an oatmeal stout, then threw Roselare blend (lambic/gueuze/flanders with a mix of brett, pedio, lacto?? and saccharo) at it. Holy hell, you guys. Sour stouts own
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Jan 25, 2015 01:43
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McSpergin posted:Also just on the topic of brett stouts, my LHBS guys have been on a real big experimental yeast kick at the moment. They did an oatmeal stout, then threw Roselare blend (lambic/gueuze/flanders with a mix of brett, pedio, lacto?? and saccharo) at it. The only sour stout I've ever had was New Belgium's Clutch beer, and I thought it was pretty dang good. I may be biased because I already knew that Clutch was the greatest band before I drank it.
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Jan 25, 2015 06:27
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Wooo finally got back to brewing after too long away (although moving might have contributed). While I was on vacation I found this book on making country wine, by a nice old hippie lady, at a used book store. I'm using one of the blueberry wine recipes found therein, as well as a mead recipe I found on a notecard tucked between the pages. I'll see if I can't post it later, but it's not really mind-blowing. Honey, some nutrients, profit. I used 71b-1122 yeast for the first time on the blueberry must, which I had to repitch after learning that 71b is pretty fragile compared to the EC-1118 The Terminator yeast I normally use. But now it's bubbling happily!
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Jan 25, 2015 06:29
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Anyone got numbers on bitterness contributions from whirlpools under boiling? I did some googling and noone seems to know, I was going to do a cool whirlpool addition at 90c of 80g Vic Secret hops as my entire hop addition, bittering included, but there seems to be no way to know how long to let it sit. Maybe I'll just go for it and see how I go. Alternatively I could do a 60 Min addition and then an even cooler whirlpool (80c) but that's boring :-P
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Jan 26, 2015 04:35
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wildfire1 posted:Anyone got numbers on bitterness contributions from whirlpools under boiling? I did some googling and noone seems to know, I was going to do a cool whirlpool addition at 90c of 80g Vic Secret hops as my entire hop addition, bittering included, but there seems to be no way to know how long to let it sit. Maybe I'll just go for it and see how I go. Alternatively I could do a 60 Min addition and then an even cooler whirlpool (80c) but that's boring :-P You'll get the same basic hop results as a pro would get during a whirlpool. There is Isomerization at those temps, but more importantly volatile hop compounds (aroma and flavor compounds primarily) will continue to be driven off at those temps. Pro's combat this by adding a HopBack into their process just before the heat-exchanger to extract those compounds with as little time as possible prior to chilling. ProBrewer.com posted:Analytical work published by Malowicki & Shellhammer illustrates that isomerization is not dependent upon boiling but is proportional to temperature. Isomerization does drop off drastically as the wort temperature falls below 100C. The isomerization rate halves as the wort temperature falls from 100C to 90C. That 10C change is 18F, so for us metricly challenged Americans that is a big temperature drop and it will take time if the kettle is insulated. The implication is that significant isomerization can take place after flame out and whirlpooling. Generally though, I haven't seen any formulas for hop utilization at temperatures lower than 100C. It seems like a lot of the pros are running based on the resulting flavor and then simply getting the beer tested for final IBU numbers (if they even care about the actual IBUs vs a calculated IBU number based on the available formulas ignoring Whirlpool time)
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Jan 26, 2015 14:33
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wildfire1 posted:Anyone got numbers on bitterness contributions from whirlpools under boiling? I did some googling and noone seems to know, I was going to do a cool whirlpool addition at 90c of 80g Vic Secret hops as my entire hop addition, bittering included, but there seems to be no way to know how long to let it sit. Maybe I'll just go for it and see how I go. Alternatively I could do a 60 Min addition and then an even cooler whirlpool (80c) but that's boring :-P figure it as a 15 minute boil and you'll be close.
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Jan 26, 2015 16:51
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Kombucha brewers, am I correct in my understanding that my PH at bottling should be 4.6 or under to prevent bad bacteria from being present? My store bought bottle of GTs produced what appears to be a nice scoby. Small but ready to go in a 1 gallon batch. This is my first batch ever. Also starting a continuous brew. I'm just really wanting to make sure I'm doing things right to prevent bad bacteria. I've heard people using Campden tabs, but I want to be able to bottle straight from the glass fermenting jar so I'm not sure that's an option for me, unless they make bottle-sized tablets. I just don't want to die from bad kombucha. 
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Jan 26, 2015 17:23
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Who Dat posted:Kombucha brewers, am I correct in my understanding that my PH at bottling should be 4.6 or under to prevent bad bacteria from being present? You should be able to buy potassium metabisulfite as a powder and mix up a 5% solution that is easier to measure per bottle. You'll need to know the pH of the kombucha to determine how much sulfite is necessary as it varies with pH. I am not a kombucha brewer though, this is coming from my experience with cider.
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Jan 26, 2015 19:52
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I'm tempted to say that if you sanitized your vessels and bottles before filling, you should be ok? I'm new to kombucha too, though, so maybe there's more too it. I don't think my SCOBY is even half-grown yet (maybe not helped by *someone* using mint tea as a base...
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Jan 26, 2015 21:31
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I'm trying to think of something pretty weird for my next beer and came up with this for an ipa: some kind of belgian yeast with a malt bill of maris otter and lots of rye. Hops would be a few New Zealand ones like green bullet, moteuka and/or nelson sauvin. It sounds pretty unique but I'm also thinking the yeast and the rye or hops might clash too much. My other idea was just a rye ipa with Chinook and some other piny/spicy hops.
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Jan 27, 2015 00:58
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adebisi lives posted:I'm trying to think of something pretty weird for my next beer and came up with this for an ipa: some kind of belgian yeast with a malt bill of maris otter and lots of rye. Hops would be a few New Zealand ones like green bullet, moteuka and/or nelson sauvin. It sounds pretty unique but I'm also thinking the yeast and the rye or hops might clash too much. My personal favourite SMaSH beer is pilsner/nelson sauvin/WY3711. Throw some rye in there too if you feel like it.
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Jan 27, 2015 01:06
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Last month did a Two Hearted Clone, which is almost a SMaSH (2Row, Centennial, and a little Crystal 40L). Then a few weeks ago I did a SMaSH with Maris Otter, Simcoe, and WLP001. Both are/were delicious. I'm kinda hooked on SMaSH now. Really interested in doing something that has El Dorado in it. What kind of malt would you pair with that? Also, anyone have other suggestions on SMaSH beer combos that they liked? (Edit: Oh... also reading about Citra. Might want to try something with that.) LaserWash fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 27, 2015 01:39
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I have room in a keg for my Imperial IPA, and I went to open it up and I was greeted with this. Do I have any options? This probably won't be too great to drink?
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Jan 27, 2015 02:07
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Probably not, but how does it smell and taste (from under the pellicle)? It's possible that it could be good, and that looks like a pellicle from one of the usual suspects (pedio, brett, lacto, aceto). With DIPA bitterness, though, I wouldn't hold my breath for accidental magic. It might be young enough to keg and drink quickly.
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Jan 27, 2015 02:13
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adebisi lives posted:I'm trying to think of something pretty weird for my next beer and came up with this for an ipa: some kind of belgian yeast with a malt bill of maris otter and lots of rye. Hops would be a few New Zealand ones like green bullet, moteuka and/or nelson sauvin. It sounds pretty unique but I'm also thinking the yeast and the rye or hops might clash too much. This would probably be pretty awesome with saison yeast.
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Jan 27, 2015 02:44
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Bobsledboy posted:Nah the air temp can change wildly inside the fridge without the beer changing much at all. This picture from the Brewpi site shows what I'm talking about pretty well: http://www.brewpi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/brewpi-web-interface-overview.png That graph makes me want to get a brewpi so bad. Love me some data, unf. brewing goons posted:sour stout talk It may not be "sour" but the quad I made with brett is god drat fantastic; and the plum version adding their own acidity (and likely some funk) makes for an astonishingly good beer. I cracked the last of my "house sour" and v2 of said beer - 1.75 vs 1 year. Really interesting the difference, of course blended they were better.  I also had to drain pour this horrible abomination of a brew that met it's inevitable demise.  Wet hopped, which also lent itself to be under-hopped, gave phone instructions on dry hopping wherein much too much air mixed (loose lids/dry airlocks), CLEARLY infected, still gave it a go. Air and underhopped meant it was a malty gross mess and strange in every way. Nail in the coffin: I either over-carbed or the infection got a foothold and pressure built. I went to move one from one case to another yesterday and 'pop'! I was lucky that the neck just let go and I was left unharmed. So down it goes.
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Jan 27, 2015 04:33
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adebisi lives posted:I'm trying to think of something pretty weird for my next beer and came up with this for an ipa: some kind of belgian yeast with a malt bill of maris otter and lots of rye. Hops would be a few New Zealand ones like green bullet, moteuka and/or nelson sauvin. It sounds pretty unique but I'm also thinking the yeast and the rye or hops might clash too much. I also thought of something pretty weird. After I brew my pilsner/vienna extremely super duper hoppy IIIPA (instead of waiting in line for 10 hours for Pliny the Younger), I'm brewing a beer where I take a basic pale ale malt bill (2-row, C40, carapils), sour mash it for 3 days with L. brevis, boil for 15 min, then dry hop it with Galaxy and Nelson Sauvin. I'm a dumbass homebrewer.
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Jan 27, 2015 05:46
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I have room in a keg for my Imperial IPA, and I went to open it up and I was greeted with this. If it's recent you might be able to save it. This happened to me with a stout. I brew lambics and must have had some cross contamination. I used both potassium sorbate and potassium sulfite to kill or stop whatever was at work on the stout. I reracked to a new carboy and left it for a few weeks. No new pellicle grew. To overcome the potassium sorbate at bottling I added a large dose of yeast actively fermenting in a small starter. It carbed up nicely and tasted great no off flavors. I got to it right after I noticed the pellicle. I was tempted go let it go and see how it turned out.
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Jan 27, 2015 07:21
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adebisi lives posted:I'm trying to think of something pretty weird for my next beer and came up with this for an ipa: some kind of belgian yeast with a malt bill of maris otter and lots of rye. Hops would be a few New Zealand ones like green bullet, moteuka and/or nelson sauvin. It sounds pretty unique but I'm also thinking the yeast and the rye or hops might clash too much. Imvho try use unmalted rye as well as malted if you can, I find more of the character of the rye seems to come through with unmalted vs malted. As for hops, I would go for something to compliment or contrast the rye spice. Complimentary, I find Ella works well (Aussie tho not NZ), I'm not versed in kiwi hops bar Neilson which I fuckin love. Maybe moteuka? Yeast, try the North eastern abbey, wlp575 or any of the non high gravity. Also not Ardennes. It's horrid in a session beer, I attempted a session ipa with Ardennes and I dumped the entire keg after one beer each. Me and my friend were barely into our first beer and he was vomiting it back up, I wasn't far behind him I just tested my smoked imperial stout. With the addition of priming sugar to the keg, with the additional few points that'll add, it's finished at 9.8 loving percent. Oh lord
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Jan 27, 2015 08:58
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 Brewing some molasses cider and it's got some white gunk floating on it. Is this Yeast? Mold? Crystalized sugar? Help me out here.
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Jan 27, 2015 18:50
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It could be yeast rafts that didn't flocculate well and sink.
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Jan 27, 2015 18:57
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I think I'm going to dump some canned Oregon tart cherries into a wild cider I have going. I've never used these so I don't really know what I'm dealing with flavor wise. How many 14.5oz cans do you think I should use in 3 gallons for a nice balance between the cherries and apples?
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Jan 27, 2015 21:14
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HatfulOfHollow posted:It could be yeast rafts that didn't flocculate well and sink. It looks exactly like this ^^^ Unrelated to beer: my bottle dreg SCOBY looks great after about a month of stepping up, @ about 30oz now.
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Jan 27, 2015 21:27
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internet celebrity posted:I think I'm going to dump some canned Oregon tart cherries into a wild cider I have going. I've never used these so I don't really know what I'm dealing with flavor wise. How many 14.5oz cans do you think I should use in 3 gallons for a nice balance between the cherries and apples? Id see where 1 caN gets you in secondary.
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Jan 27, 2015 23:55
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Otto Von Jizzmark posted:If it's recent you might be able to save it. This happened to me with a stout. I brew lambics and must have had some cross contamination. Isn't that a bit overkill? Assuming it'll be refrigerated in the keg, the contaminants will basically go dormant and the flavor damage is already done (if there is any damage, even). I'd just taste a sample, and it if tastes like rear end I'd dump it, otherwise keg as normal.
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Jan 28, 2015 00:43
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ChickenArise posted:Probably not, but how does it smell and taste (from under the pellicle)? It's possible that it could be good, and that looks like a pellicle from one of the usual suspects (pedio, brett, lacto, aceto). With DIPA bitterness, though, I wouldn't hold my breath for accidental magic. It might be young enough to keg and drink quickly. Thanks for the tip, I tested it and it's pretty bad. Oh well.
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Jan 28, 2015 01:59
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internet celebrity posted:I think I'm going to dump some canned Oregon tart cherries into a wild cider I have going. I've never used these so I don't really know what I'm dealing with flavor wise. How many 14.5oz cans do you think I should use in 3 gallons for a nice balance between the cherries and apples? I suppose that depends on just how "balanced" you want it. I have had both great and terrible results from adding cherries to cider, but I've mostly found that more cherries is more better. I still haven't been able to replicate one of the first batches I made in my initial return to brewing....I used an unknown amount(I wasn't the one taking notes) of an unknown Apple & Eve cherry juice blend, and haven't been able to find that stuff anywhere since then, or replicate the results with any other brand. It was loving delicious, though, and I lament having consumed it all.
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Jan 28, 2015 06:15
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Glottis posted:Isn't that a bit overkill? Assuming it'll be refrigerated in the keg, the contaminants will basically go dormant and the flavor damage is already done (if there is any damage, even). I'd just taste a sample, and it if tastes like rear end I'd dump it, otherwise keg as normal. I don't use a keg system everything is carbed in bottles. Otherwise yea cool it down and keg it and drink it up.
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Jan 28, 2015 07:13
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I don't remember if I posted this but I did Papazian's witbier recipe the other week, with one substitution - fresh coriander seeds straight from the garden. This poo poo right here is why they use coriander, not the dried stuff. It's super citrusy, floral, just dank and oily full of fruity flavours. If you can get some, try it out
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Jan 28, 2015 11:03
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McSpergin posted:I don't remember if I posted this but I did Papazian's witbier recipe the other week, with one substitution - fresh coriander seeds straight from the garden. This poo poo right here is why they use coriander, not the dried stuff. It's super citrusy, floral, just dank and oily full of fruity flavours. If you can get some, try it out Did you measure by volume then?
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Jan 28, 2015 12:41
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McSpergin posted:I don't remember if I posted this but I did Papazian's witbier recipe the other week, with one substitution - fresh coriander seeds straight from the garden. This poo poo right here is why they use coriander, not the dried stuff. It's super citrusy, floral, just dank and oily full of fruity flavours. If you can get some, try it out You did mention it and I made a mental note to try it this summer for my annual witbier brew.
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Jan 28, 2015 20:04
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Had a taste of the brew tonight as I was bottling. It was a bit thinner than I expected. Lacked some oomph. Based on a pre-boil OG measurement, and the FG measurement, I'm guessing I hit 5%, which is okay, if a bit lower than I wanted, but as a whole it seemed slightly underwhelming. I'll take more care regarding pitching rates and fermentation temperatures next time. It was quite bitter, more than I expected, probably because I let it stand for quite a bit before cooling it. I'm hoping that after the bottle conditioning it will turn out to be a pretty good session pale ale. Still, for the first time out, I'm massively pleased. The aroma was very nice, and so different from what you'd expect from smelling the dry hops and wort.
thotsky fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jan 29, 2015 |
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Jan 29, 2015 01:53
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McSpergin posted:I don't remember if I posted this but I did Papazian's witbier recipe the other week, with one substitution - fresh coriander seeds straight from the garden. This poo poo right here is why they use coriander, not the dried stuff. It's super citrusy, floral, just dank and oily full of fruity flavours. If you can get some, try it out Fresh herbs > dried in basically any application tbqh. Thyme is FOR SURE one of those as well, fresh thyme is floral and citrusy like woah - and that is standard English, lemon thyme is like cutting into a lemon. poo poo is amazing.
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Jan 29, 2015 03:28
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Now I want a beer with thyme. So many good puns too.
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Jan 29, 2015 04:21
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First run with the kegs and filter system. The 5 micron filter obviously filtered some stuff, but the beer ran through the 1 micron filter awfully quickly. Oh, also this happened-  Does anybody else use these cartridge filters?  Can you get more than one use out of them? It'd be nice to not have to replace them every time, but an extra $6 on every kegged batch wouldn't break the bank.
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Jan 29, 2015 05:04
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DontAskKant posted:Now I want a beer with thyme. So many good puns too. A friend of mine runs a nanobrewery in England and made a thyme beer, he'd be open to any questions you have about it. I haven't tried it since I'm not in England anymore. https://twitter.com/BeerNouveau/status/531832191878443009
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Jan 29, 2015 05:31
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DontAskKant posted:Did you measure by volume then? Yeah mate, I used about 2.6g of seeds with an additional 5g of dried. The 2.6 was all I had handy. Also used an equivalent volume of orange peel 
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Jan 29, 2015 08:54
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McSpergin posted:Yeah mate, I used about 2.6g of seeds with an additional 5g of dried. The 2.6 was all I had handy. Also used an equivalent volume of orange peel On the same token though, I am anally pedantic about taking notes on poo poo. I work in engineering, so writing down exactly what happens helps with fault finding 
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Jan 29, 2015 08:58
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