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Giblet Plus! posted:Nah it's to save weight by mounting a bigger heavier brake disc that's worse at dissipating heat. FTFY
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Jan 26, 2015 01:20
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Dudes, We were at lunch yesterday and one of the servers came rushing up to us to ask a question about the motorcycle his roommate recently bought. I don't know what it is specifically, but the kid said it's a '96 Honda (650? 600?). He said the PO they bought it from rode it to them and it was working fine, but it will not start for them now. He says the battery is good (I have no idea if he multimetered it or just is assuming it's OK because the accessory lights come on), but it just won't crank. He says the PO told them he put a new fuel pump on it because the old one went bad, and all I know is that the pump has some weird settings. I know this is a longshot, but do any of you guys have a suggestion for something they can try? I told him he might want to take a close look at the fuel pump since it's the last thing installed by the PO. They could probably call the guy and ask, too. The kid thought they were maybe flooding the engine, but I think it'd do something, and it sounded like nothing happened when he tried to start it. He says he tried to push start it and that didn't work, either.
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Jan 26, 2015 08:39
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Ola posted:Braking a single side of a double disc won't turn the forks, will it? Otherwise all single disc bikes would pull to one side. Z3n posted:Correct. What's the last thing that was worked on on the bike? I'd start there. goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah, I literally just had a stuck right brake and all that happened was the bike was slower (and vibrated a bit) - he asked me about it because of this. I'm so sorry I'm bad at this. 
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Jan 26, 2015 08:53
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Lynza posted:Dudes, Kickstand or center stand down? Not in neutral?
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Jan 26, 2015 08:59
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Yeah I'd wanna know more about the battery if it won't crank. It's gotta be something simple like that or a fuse or a safety switch unless the seller was hiding something. Or will it crank but not fire?
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Jan 26, 2015 15:50
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Yeah I'd wanna know more about the battery if it won't crank. It's gotta be something simple like that or a fuse or a safety switch unless the seller was hiding something. Or will it crank but not fire? I'm 100% with Rev on this one. When my VFR had a cell go bad in the battery, the lights and gauges worked well, but as soon as you thumbed the starter the entire machine died. I'd vote that after checking the obvious above (kickstand is up, bike has a neutral start switch or whatever) to take the battery into an AutoZone/Advance Auto and have them check it for free. My money's on a dead cell.
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Jan 26, 2015 21:23
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Which insurance company is it that covers gear too?
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Jan 26, 2015 21:35
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M42 posted:Which insurance company is it that covers gear too?
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Jan 26, 2015 21:40
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KARMA! posted:I'm so sorry I'm bad at this. He reckons putting 5 psi in the front tyre has fixed it. Still calling psychosomatic but whatever.
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Jan 26, 2015 21:44
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M42 posted:Which insurance company is it that covers gear too? I think most do. I have it from nationwide and I've heard State Farm does too. They might not advertise it too much but if you have comprehensive read through the policy and you might find it. I get roadside repair/pickup too even though it wasn't advertised before I got my paperwork.
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Jan 26, 2015 22:04
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HotCanadianChick posted:Kickstand or center stand down? Not in neutral? Does it have a clutch switch? The clutch safety on my goose is broken and I just shorted it. So does it just not do anyhting? Or does it click like there's not enough juice?
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Jan 26, 2015 22:27
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Slavvy posted:I don't get why every oil cooled bike I've seen had no oil pressure light. Probably because it would stress out owners. My friend's Road King has an aftermarket oil pressure/temp gauge that he diligently ignores when it gets super hot and just feels how the engine is running. All I want to know with the Buell's oil is whether it's low.
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Jan 26, 2015 23:45
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M42 posted:Which insurance company is it that covers gear too? State Farm does gear coverage, although I think it's on an additional waiver. KARMA! posted:I'm so sorry I'm bad at this. Gotta learn somehow, guessing is as good a start as any!  Lynza posted:Dudes, If it doesn't crank, I'd be looking at the clutch, neutral, and sidestand switches.
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Jan 26, 2015 23:49
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clutchpuck posted:All I want to know with the Buell's oil is whether it's low. Is it leaking? (Y/N)
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Jan 27, 2015 04:04
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My GS has an oil pressure light but if it's anything like a car it's a 'you just wrecked your motor' indicator more than anything. My FZR actually has an oil light that comes on if it's about half a liter low which is pretty handy. I just check the oil once a week if in commuter mode or every night when I stop if I'm on a road trip. I've never been close to low enough to cause damage this way though most of my bikes haven't been too fond of eating oil. VVV Knowing Suzuki it's probably the same part number switch in both our bikes and in every other Suzuki for the last 30 years. When I needed new sealing washers for the cam cover I couldn't find any for my bike so just ebay searched the part number and found that they are the same as the current gen GSXR1k. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 27, 2015 04:08
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Bugdrvr posted:My GS has an oil pressure light but if it's anything like a car it's a 'you just wrecked your motor' indicator more than anything. The oil pressure light on my GS500 will go on about 5-10 seconds after i hit the killswitch. so I agree here.
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Jan 27, 2015 04:45
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I have an engine question. The XB9 is a destroked XB12. Now of course that means the crank throw is shorter, so to keep compression the same the rotating assembly has to be taller. They did that by both using a longer rod and putting a dome on the piston; why not just go with a longer rod and use the same piston in both bikes?
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Jan 27, 2015 20:36
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Want the short or the really long answer? Basically you want to keep the rod to stroke ratio between certain numbers to reduce friction (for long rods) and encourage optimal combustion (short rods). Also longer rods have more interference with the cylinder bottom stuff (water jacket area, pan, pan rails etc). Some combos of stroke length and rod choice are not practical. Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 27, 2015 23:41
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They may also not have been able to attain the target CC by altering the rod alone for geometry reasons.
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Jan 28, 2015 01:00
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nitrogen posted:The oil pressure light on my GS500 will go on about 5-10 seconds after i hit the killswitch. I lost a clip for the PCV hose on my b12 and it started puking oil onto the top of the engine. The oil light came on under heavy braking. I stopped, checked the oil, and it was low. I then rode it five miles (without heavy braking or anything) and put 3l in to bring it up to the mark. That calculates out to roughly 200ml of circulating oil in the engine. I'm likewise convinced that the oil pressure switch on suzukis is "oil is actively flowing/draining in the general vicinity of the oil pump."
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Jan 28, 2015 19:53
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Hyoshit has started doing something strange. Attempting to start it with the headlight on just leads to nothing happening, no click or anything, as if the killswitch is off. Turning off the headlight lets it start perfectly. Possibly related: if you leave it idling for around 30 seconds, it eventually starts to stumble and idle poorly and eventually stalls. These both started happening around the same time. Does this sound like a bad battery, or something more sinister? When it does turn over, the cranking itself is fast and healthy and the engine has no difficulty firing up.
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Jan 28, 2015 22:18
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Slavvy posted:Does this sound like a bad battery Yes, a lot. Measure voltage with engine off, see how much it drops when you crank and when the engine runs.
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Jan 28, 2015 22:24
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Bike doing extremely weird irregular poo poo, including bizarre electrical systems behaviour: 99% likely to be the battery going
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Jan 28, 2015 23:29
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Dammit. I hate having to put actual effort into that bike
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Jan 29, 2015 00:29
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Comrade, did you remove the Hyosung
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Jan 29, 2015 01:24
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Is that what the second fuel tap is for? Seriously, it has the usual 3 position vacuum petcock (in a place you can't reach without removing the tank - no, really) and then upstream from that it has another vacuum operated tap with no manual position settings at all 
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Jan 29, 2015 03:20
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goddamnedtwisto posted:He reckons putting 5 psi in the front tyre has fixed it. Still calling psychosomatic but whatever. If the tyre was really soft and he was on a road with significant camber it would pull ever so slightly to the right as the contact patch increased massively on the camber side. Striples have one of the narrowest handlebars on any bike so it would be more noticeable than other bikes.
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Jan 29, 2015 17:45
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It might not be completely psychosomatic. I noticed that my GS the front wheel will wander all over the road if it gets even 2-3 pounds low. We tend to have uneven, rain grooved concrete on the freeways here which makes all bikes a bit more wandery than black top but this is the only bike I've had that was so bad off. Every other has felt "kinda off but not too terrible" even when the front tire got down to like 15psi. Depending on how your roads are maybe hitting the brakes does make it veer right.
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Jan 29, 2015 18:52
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I swear to god, my GS500 hates me. Tried to start it for a lunchtime ride and the starter grinded a bit and just got stuck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aT--RTTALCY battery should be fine, it sits on a tricklecharger, but might try jumpstarting it just to see after work is done. Any ideas wtf could be up with this $#%#@$%$ thing?
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Jan 30, 2015 19:12
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push start it! Seriously though, seems like your starter solenoid poo poo itself based on your instrument lamps not dimming out. Use the screwdriver trick?
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Jan 30, 2015 20:21
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I'd whack it with a screwdriver or wrench and see if it starts working.
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Jan 30, 2015 21:35
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If the screwdriver trick doesn't work, take the starter off and pop it open to check for destroyed brushes or excessive buildup of graphite dust, and cupping on the copper bars the brushes contact. My 85 had a seriously hosed starter armature (cupping galore, it looked like flower petals) and when it ate the brushes something similar happened.
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Jan 30, 2015 22:15
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Local yamaha had some in stock, unfortunately my lube job has now turned into a replacement job and no one within 500 miles has a new clutch cable in stock. Gillingham fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Feb 1, 2015 |
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Jan 31, 2015 19:42
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nitrogen posted:I swear to god, my GS500 hates me. Its pretty rare for the starters to go out on these. You might have bought a bad seed. There is another 93 for sale in Austin for 1100 bucks. 
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Feb 1, 2015 04:06
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Tyre time for the hyoshit. I've bought a tyre (like I'm ever doing both at once on this bike) marked as being tubeless radial. The tyre on the bike definitely isn't tubeless. I'm happy to just mount it on the rim with the tube but obviously if I can get away with not having one, I'd prefer that. How can you tell if the wheels can accept radial tyres without a tube?
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Feb 3, 2015 00:36
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Spokes? You need a tube type. No spokes? Tubeless. You can use a tubeless tire on a spoked rim but still need to use a tube. What bike do you have again?
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Feb 3, 2015 16:07
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This is girly's hyosung 250, has pretty ordinary looking alloy wheels on it but the tyres present are bias ply with tubes. So I'm ok to just stick it on tubeless? Will it matter that I have a tubeless on the back and a tube on the front?
Slavvy fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Feb 3, 2015 |
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Feb 3, 2015 18:56
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I had no idea the hyosungs had tubed tires. For some reason that seems incredibly cheap to me. Are they being run because there's a hole or something in the tire itself or they legit came like that OEM? I didn't know anything came with tubes anymore besides supermoto-type bikes and some Harleys (I think, I dunno if this still happens).
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Feb 3, 2015 19:15
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Lots of cruisers come tubed. BMW and KTM have tubeless spoke systems. I think Aprilia does too. If it's a standard cast wheel then you should be good to go tubeless. If you're doing both tires get radials front and rear. I think Michelin has the pilot streets that might fit it. It's basically a PR2 for smaller bikes.
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Feb 3, 2015 19:52
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Slavvy posted:How can you tell if the wheels can accept radial tyres without a tube? If it has a safety bump to hold the bead in place when the tire is deflated, you can use tubeless. Spoked or not spoked doesn't matter, as there's plenty of modern bikes with spoked wheels that use tubeless tires.   Comstar wheels are a good example, the early ones require tubes and don't have the safety bead; later ones (post 1980 or 81 or so) have the bump added and were made for tubeless. They're both standard cast spokeless alloys. Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Feb 3, 2015 |
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Feb 3, 2015 19:52
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