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ReelBigLizard posted:EDIT: PPS: If you are having trouble finding Iroko, it's sometimes called "African Teak". Iroko as a name seems to be more common here in the commonwealth. ReelBigLizard posted:PS: I really like the idea of a hardwood shower, keep us updated.
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Jan 31, 2015 00:10
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My first big project. Make a work bench. I went against the sound advice of the internet and tried to make a roubo as my first bench. I worked, sort of. I made the "lazy man's roubo." Proper joints to mate the top to the legs. Metal fasteners for the stretchers. I rescued a wooden vise screw and nut from the flea market for the end vise. Lee valley screw for the leg vise. Douglas fir for most of it from the home center. Maple for the vise chop and parallel guide.  
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Jan 31, 2015 23:33
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I love it. Can't wait to have my own, albeit smaller version.
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Jan 31, 2015 23:52
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I've been playing around with the idea of getting into woodworking for a while. I tend to drift in and out of hobbies, but I often felt frustrated about not having a decent workspace, be it electronics/computers, bashing wood together, whatever. I finally bit the bullet, bought some tools and made a workbench that I think is pretty flexible around my shifting hobbies. It's very rough compared to the stuff here, but I figured I'd post anyway. I got the "plans" from here : http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/how-to-build-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench/view-all. If you plan on doing this, take that link with a pinch of salt. I've no idea when it's from, but the wood came to about $140 CAD. It's also a little generous with the "HEY BUILD THIS IN A COUPLE OF HOURS!". Maybe if you already have a workbench and can work outdoors. I didn't have that luxury, Since I've never really done this kind of thing before, I wanted to make a model of it first. Which meant I needed to learn SketchUp!  I learnt a lot from doing this. Not only how to use the program, but I ran into problems putting things together...which stopped me doing that on the actual build! Buying the poo poo  Cutting the poo poo  Framing the poo poo  Putting Plywood on poo poo  Learning the power of using extra wood as a guide  Getting there...  Pegboard  Tada! It's suprisingly level. I spent so much time with the square and spirit level throughout.  Next stop is to buy a vise and get cracking on some projects around the house. midge fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Feb 1, 2015 |
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Feb 1, 2015 03:36
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Nice workbench dude. My vise advice is to not get the $50 wilton special from home depot, they are from china and rust / get gross after a year. They are made from the slag of all the old scrap metal we send back over there and people have had their vise break in two when muscling it around. I replaced my china vise with a $75 craigslist grab, made back in the day. They don't make them like they used to! This thing is a tank and after some elbow grease looks good as new. A new quality vise can run you hundreds, so search the used market for a while and you're bound to find one. Vulcan fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Feb 1, 2015 |
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Feb 1, 2015 06:18
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midge posted:I've been playing around with the idea of getting into woodworking for a while. I tend to drift in and out of hobbies, but I often felt frustrated about not having a decent workspace, be it electronics/computers, bashing wood together, whatever. I finally bit the bullet, bought some tools and made a workbench that I think is pretty flexible around my shifting hobbies. It's very rough compared to the stuff here, but I figured I'd post anyway. I also went with a design from that website, the simple workbench. I am at the point where I need to install cross braces and make drawers, unfortunately my son is getting over a bad cold which puts a damper on time in my work room. I also almost used the plans you used, but I felt that they were over building the shelves, especially the lower shelf with 5 cross braces. I might add an upper shelf on later, but I felt the two legs on the front of the upper shelf would get in the way, and I had no idea what height I wanted. For a vise, I decided to go with a 7" Pony since it was cheap and in stock at Menards. I actually hate every minute I spend in Menards since the quality of everything is on par with Harbor Frieght, but I have not yet finished bolting the vise on to form an opinion of it. I like my Pony clamps though so the vise will probably be acceptable. In other news, I pawned my class ring today (en I hate everything about my high school and my class ring had my name spelled wrong) and I was looking for a bandsaw in the pawnshop. There was a three wheel Delta for $90, a 9" two wheel delta with a bunch of poo poo broken for $120, and a couple years old Ryobi with broken latches for $90. Pawn broker claimed all prices were non-negotiable after I had just sold them jewelry. . . So I went and bought a brand new Ryobi from Home Depot. Despite my experience today, is buying tools from a pawn shop a good or bad idea? I was really tempted to get a couple $20 Bostitch nail guns (what is the one true size for babies first nail gun?) or a $20 Craftsman pneumatic impact wrench (does Craftsman have a good warranty on air tools?). I think if I needed a loose socket for a dollar or other small tools a pawn shop would be great but I cant see myself buying power tools from my local pawn shop chain. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Feb 1, 2015 |
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Feb 1, 2015 06:32
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Crotch Fruit posted:Despite my experience today, is buying tools from a pawn shop a good or bad idea? I assume all tools in pawn shops are stolen. They're almost always over priced as well.
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Feb 1, 2015 16:10
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Crotch Fruit posted:I also almost used the plans you used, but I felt that they were over building the shelves, especially the lower shelf with 5 cross braces. Yeah, I also felt that. But since I've never built a stud wall I figured it would be decent practice. The thing is rock solid and would make a fine single bed. Thanks for the vise chat. Is there any reason I shouldn't go for this? http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0001LQY4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ASCNYRGNZKE6D Is that too small for general stuff? Shooting boards, etc?
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Feb 1, 2015 16:43
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Cakefool posted:I assume all tools in pawn shops are stolen. I assume that they are all stolen too and it doesn't bother me one bit. Besides the overpriced issue, should I avoid a particular type of tool do to reliability? I have no faith in buying cordless tool batteries or the tools alone, especially not when they wanted $200 for a bare M18 non fuel hammer drill. . .  But do nail guns and other pneumatic tools require enough maintenance to make purchasing from a pawn shop a bad idea?midge posted:Yeah, I also felt that. But since I've never built a stud wall I figured it would be decent practice. The thing is rock solid and would make a fine single bed. The reason I went with Menards to get my vise is because they are heavy and expensive to ship, my vise is $30 local or $50 from Amazon. When I asked this thread earlier the answer I got was in that price range all vise will suck equally. That said, that vise is almost identical to mine but there are two features I think you might want to have. First I don't see mounting holes for surface mount only face mount, that might not bother you but I believe my vise will outlast my bench and I might need other mounting options in the future. The big feature that I see missing is a bench dog, you could easily get by without it but I think it is nice to have. I also don't like the blue metal flake.
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Feb 1, 2015 18:32
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Thanks. Sadly I'm getting no hits on any of the 2nd hand sites around here, not sure how patient I will be  Has anyone seen a good design for a compact table/mitre saw stand? I really like this idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcuElzIKDKE But it's not interchangeable for a table saw too. Will I have to bite the bullet and have two stands?
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Feb 1, 2015 20:07
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Have you seen my new disc sander? Well soon to be anyway. It's an old tile cutting saw I no longer have any use for, so I am going to non-destructively convert it into a disc sander. I need to make a 9" disc (biggest that'll fit) and a table and an enclosure with dust collection. Thinking I'll mount the whole thing on my french cleats on the wall. Also did some resawing on the bandsaw today, no drift to speak of: 
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Feb 1, 2015 21:07
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Cakefool posted:I assume all tools in pawn shops are stolen. I worked in a pawn shop for five years and only had 4-5 items taken by the police that were reported stolen (mostly electronics). The pricing could be a bit wonky especially if the person who took it in paid too much for it.
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Feb 2, 2015 04:06
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Pawn shop tools here are usually 60-80% retail and beat to poo poo. I assume they expect to negotiate down to about 50% retail but I still wont pay that considering the condition.
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Feb 2, 2015 04:26
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I'm finally getting started on woodowrking after a long stint overseas, and I'm having issues making straight cuts. I have a sliding compound miter saw, and I've squared the blade to the fence...but if the wood is longer than my miter saw's bed, I can't seem to keep the cut straight. I also have a table saw, but it's an old hand-me-down Ryobi and doesn't have a fence. It also looks, from the design, like mounting a fence I made myself would be nightmare. I tried straightening the edges out with a straight bit and router, but that didn't work out. My last option is my circular saw...but I'm not great at keeping things on a true line freehand, and it seems like it would be really difficult to use it to straighten up the edges on boards I've already cut. Are there any other options for squaring up edges after a bad cut, or should I just do my best to make and mount a fence for the table saw?
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Feb 2, 2015 20:36
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What's a good way to finish a turned bowl to a glossy sheen, polyurethane, varnish, shellack, or oil and wax? I've been doing mineral oil and beeswax a lot lately but it has a tendency to dry out over time, which dulls the finish very noticeably.
blunt for century fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Feb 3, 2015 |
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Feb 3, 2015 21:58
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Devorum posted:and I'm having issues making straight cuts. Best/cheapest option would be to make a cutting guide for your circular saw: https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=make%20a%20circular%20saw%20guide
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Feb 3, 2015 22:26
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Here is your latest "always use your push blocks on the table router, even when they're like, ALL the way over there" post   fingat! Seriously though kids, use protection!
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Feb 4, 2015 00:19
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:
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Feb 4, 2015 00:27
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blunt for century posted:What's a good way to finish a turned bowl to a glossy sheen, polyurethane, varnish, shellack, or oil and wax? I've been doing mineral oil and beeswax a lot lately but it has a tendency to dry out over time, which dulls the finish very noticeably. There are a couple of factors, the first of which is whether the bowl will be used for food. If it is, a non-toxic polyurethane like "EZ-DO" is a good option. I've never used it to create a high gloss finish, but if you use enough coats and polish it, I'm sure it can be done. Otherwise, any high gloss poly or laquer will do just fine. The key to high gloss is having the smoothest surface possible. This means your wood must be smoothed and sealed (maybe filled? ) and whatever finish you apply will probably have to be sanded/polished. I shy away from high gloss most of the time because it shows every little imperfection. Also, wax is a temporary finish and always will be. It has to be re-applied regularly to maontain its lustre.
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Feb 4, 2015 00:46
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:
One of my dad's apprentices did that, and lost his middle finger. They removed the metacarpal bone from his palm and put his hand back together, and he was back at work for all of three days before losing his pinky to the same saw.
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Feb 4, 2015 01:13
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:Here is your latest "always use your push blocks on the table router, even when they're like, ALL the way over there" post Wait what exactly were you doing?? I basically never use push blocks on a router table, and actually think they are less accurate and less safe. The only exception might be massive panel cuts, but event then you should clearly do multiple passes. What's the story here (no offense but sounds like an operator problem rather than a push blocks recommendation).
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Feb 4, 2015 04:02
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Skinny Bins posted:There are a couple of factors, the first of which is whether the bowl will be used for food. If it is, a non-toxic polyurethane like "EZ-DO" is a good option. I've never used it to create a high gloss finish, but if you use enough coats and polish it, I'm sure it can be done. Thanks for the info. I typically don't make bowls for food, so that doesn't matter here. I'll have to remember the staying away from high gloss thing, I'm still new enough to turning that no matter how careful I am, there's always at least one little rough spot from the scraper snagging somewhere
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Feb 4, 2015 04:07
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Cobalt60 posted:Wait what exactly were you doing?? I basically never use push blocks on a router table, and actually think they are less accurate and less safe. I was using a pattern but and a guide clamp to put a straight edge on some wood, pushing it through from right to left. I *think* what happened was that the bearing lost its reference on the guide, and the bit dug into the metal, though I'm not sure how this would work... In any case it resulted in a big kickback from the bit, pulling the whole assembly back through to the right, taking my left hand through with it.
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Feb 4, 2015 09:17
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That picture is making me wonder if a shaw guard (made from lexan or some such so I can see through) would be a good addition to my router table... Or perhaps I'll just continue as I've done, using a clamp to hold a piece, gets my hands away from the piece. I did cut my hand last week, but when cleaning the sauna, cut up my ring finger knuckle and blood was just pouring everywhere. Thought I'd stopped the bleeding with a compress and electrical tape so I put the hand in a glove to "protect it". Soon though the finger had filled up with blood and was dripping through. More compresses and tape basically. Eventually it stopped. Then a few days ago I hit the finger by accident against a table in the workshop after I thought it had healed enough and it tears open and resumes bleeding as before. I got blood spatter on my workshop door and on the floor still as I rush outside and put a handful of snow on it.
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Feb 4, 2015 10:08
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His Divine Shadow posted:That picture is making me wonder if a shaw guard (made from lexan or some such so I can see through) would be a good addition to my router table... Or perhaps I'll just continue as I've done, using a clamp to hold a piece, gets my hands away from the piece. I'd be kinda worried about my hand getting pulled in and trapped under the guard, but obviously I am not a man to take safety tips from  Honestly the safety feature which stopped it from being much, much worse was the router I was using (a Triton TRB001) has some kind of auto-cut out if it jams on anything, so even in the split second between the kickback and my hand hitting it the cutter was already stopping. If it hadn't done that I would very likely be looking at lost fingers rather than just a poo poo load of stitches and a cast.
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Feb 4, 2015 10:38
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Yeah my router doesn't have that, or it probably doesn't, it's a cheapo lidl one. I was looking at the triton but decided against it as it won't fit in my homemade router lift, so I am looking at a Bosch GMF 1600 or AEG MF 1400 KE instead, because they have cylindrical bodies, no idea if they got auto-offs. Some kind of clamp to work as a hand extended might just be safest.
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Feb 4, 2015 13:25
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Can anyone explain what the idea of a router table is over using it handheld with a jig/template/fence? Is it that much faster?
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Feb 4, 2015 13:26
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Certain applications are much easier and faster and more precise using a router table, and others are better done with a router in your hands. I think the table is more useful and I've dedicated my router to it, here's my reasoning, as I built this exact lift here, more versatile than a normal lift: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WD8VdX4LRw
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Feb 4, 2015 13:29
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Basically you need about 10-30 routers depending on what you do. The main reason I don't use my porter cable dovetail jig is because it basically needs a dedicated router. The setup for it is a pain in the rear end.
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Feb 4, 2015 14:04
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Pondex posted:Can anyone explain what the idea of a router table is over using it handheld with a jig/template/fence? Is it that much faster? It's the age old question of do you bring the wood to the tool or the tool to the wood. Some cuts work better one way, some work better the other.
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Feb 4, 2015 14:05
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For example, if you want to put a profile on the edges of a board, it's probably easier to use the router table; doing it freehand would mean clamping the board down, doing one edge, turning the router off, putting it down, unclamping the board, rotating it, clamping it, picking up the router, doing another edge... On the other hand, if you wanted to route out a slot in the middle of a board (or a mortise, say), then you'd want to set up a jig with a freehand router.
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Feb 4, 2015 15:52
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If however you want to fillet your finger the router is a versatile tool and will happily oblige whether you choose to go freehand or table-mounted.quote:It's the age old question of do you bring the finger to the tool or the tool to the finger.
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Feb 4, 2015 16:19
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0Mod_92VZA Terrifying.
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Feb 4, 2015 17:56
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What a loving waste. It is impossible to convince me that burl was not poached, the turning wasted a ton of wood, and the buyer ruined the turning. You can not convince me that is a video of a "good" wood worker.
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Feb 4, 2015 18:17
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I prefer the videos of that crazy Canadian guy with his 100-horsepower lathe.
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Feb 4, 2015 18:36
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His Divine Shadow posted:I got blood spatter on my workshop door and on the floor still as I rush outside and put a handful of snow on it. I left the blood spatter on the end of the workbench I was making and on the shed floor when I gashed my hand with a chisel, as a reminder. Hands do not go in front of the sharp bit.
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Feb 4, 2015 18:45
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Crotch Fruit posted:What a loving waste. It is impossible to convince me that burl was not poached, the turning wasted a ton of wood, and the buyer ruined the turning. You can not convince me that is a video of a "good" wood worker. quote:A client paid for this project as part of his home entertainment system. Following turning, the client immersed the wood in a specially fabricated steel vacuum drum. Instead of using pure tung oil which he thought "too expensive", he decided to save money and used hardware-store spar varnish, a foul-smelling finish, in an attempt to make the wood translucent, similar to Cook Island / Norfolk Pine. It told him the maple would not become translucent but he persisted. The speaker came out with such chemical smell that it was ruined for use in any home. The person that paid for this project had more money than common sense. He paid me $6000 and gave me an opportunity to stretch my talents as a wood turner. My wife recorded the video, thank you to her. Part 1 of this video shows more technique.
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Feb 4, 2015 20:13
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:
I got an email from Popular Woodworking that I sent to my brother, who took the tip of finger off with a router table. Send me your email address as you could probably use it to. "Router Basics: Work Safely - Work Confidently" was the Subject TooMuchAbstraction posted:For example, if you want to put a profile on the edges of a board, it's probably easier to use the router table; doing it freehand would mean clamping the board down, doing one edge, turning the router off, putting it down, unclamping the board, rotating it, clamping it, picking up the router, doing another edge... I love my palm router for profiling edges. I use my router table for repetitive projects or needing to take edges off. Plunge router for any window/holes cut in the middle.
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Feb 4, 2015 21:25
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Speaking of routers, is there any reason not to get a table saw wing router table? I'm pretty tight on space.
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Feb 4, 2015 21:43
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JEEVES420 posted:I got an email from Popular Woodworking that I sent to my brother, who took the tip of finger off with a router table. Send me your email address as you could probably use it to. I've been too far towards the 'confidently' and away from the 'safely' for a while now. I think I read that article, is it this one? Honestly with some of the dumb poo poo I've pulled with power tools mangling a finger is getting off lightly, and should serve as a good wake up call. Off topic but I feel the need to shout it from the rooftops: the NHS loving rocks. I went to Accident & Emergency on Sunday afternoon, was stitched up on the spot, put on a course of antibiotics on Monday, operated on on Tuesday, and have an appointment with physio on Thursday morning to discuss on going treatment / recovery. Total cost to me was £8.05 (about $12), which paid for the antibiotics.
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Feb 4, 2015 22:12
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