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Don't assume that cause a wheel is cast or whatever it will take tubeless tires - if it came with tubes oem, run tubes.
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Feb 3, 2015 20:33
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Don't be a pussy. If it comes down to it just find a welder and run a fat booger weld around the circumference of the rim as your "safety strip". What could go wrong?
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Feb 3, 2015 20:37
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Information I've found on the hyosung 250 says tubeless.
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Feb 3, 2015 21:35
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Yeah it looks like factory fitment was tubeless shinkos and whoever had it before me fitted Michelin pilot sportys which are tubed. I just got a shinko for the rear; I'll try riding it with the tubed front still on there and if it's really horrific I'll just shell out for a front to go with.
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Feb 3, 2015 22:21
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So how hard is it to replace the retaining screw for the oil filter cover on a GS 500?  Edit: Suzuki GS500 Oil Filter Cover Stud Repair: http://youtu.be/1aE_bntq_iE Not too bad. Swear I didn't overtorque it
nitrogen fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Feb 3, 2015 |
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Feb 3, 2015 23:48
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nitrogen posted:So how hard is it to replace the retaining screw for the oil filter cover on a GS 500? Torquing bolts, both on and off, has tough lessons to learn. Z3n posted:Don't assume that cause a wheel is cast or whatever it will take tubeless tires - if it came with tubes oem, run tubes. Thanks buddy. I spent a lot of energy deflecting HCC's bullshit early on but since he's been back I haven't needed to do a thing. You and others have always been right there.
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Feb 4, 2015 07:56
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Slavvy posted:Yeah it looks like factory fitment was tubeless shinkos Ha. That's pretty funny.
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Feb 4, 2015 09:03
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Stuck the shinko on tubeless, bike is totally fine and normal. Old tyre was date stamped 2005 btw.nsaP posted:Torquing bolts, both on and off, has tough lessons to learn. I'd tell you you're like the Kanye/Charlie Sheen of this forum but I'm 90% certain you'd take it as a compliment.
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Feb 4, 2015 09:04
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e: SO MANY BUTTONS HOLY gently caress STOP CLICKING YOU DUMBASS!
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Feb 4, 2015 09:05
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Fuckin' tiger blood....WHOOO ed: Btw slavvy you've come along nicely. You're still kinda silly but interesting, and reigned in. Way better than when you showed up. the wacky australian sagebrush. nsaP fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Feb 4, 2015 |
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Feb 4, 2015 09:06
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Z3n posted:Don't assume that cause a wheel is cast or whatever it will take tubeless tires - if it came with tubes oem, run tubes. nsaP posted:Thanks buddy. I spent a lot of energy deflecting HCC's bullshit early on but since he's been back I haven't needed to do a thing. You and others have always been right there. Uh, less crack pipe guys? I never said being a cast wheel had anything to do with being ok to run tubeless; in fact I said exactly the opposite. Keep on keepin' on though.
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Feb 4, 2015 16:13
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GIRLS! You're *BOTH* pretty.
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Feb 4, 2015 16:44
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nsaP posted:Fuckin' tiger blood....WHOOO NEVER call a kiwi an aussie, it's insulting. I'm otherwise flattered :bigtran: nitrogen posted:GIRLS! You're *BOTH* pretty. Hahahahaha.
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Feb 4, 2015 19:43
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It was me who said you run tubeless on cast and tube on spoked (in most cases) and was incorrect. What bikes use a cast rim but needs a tube?
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Feb 4, 2015 19:56
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I got a GS500 as my first bike recently. Mostly it seems OK, although I actually have no basis for comparison. A couple things: 1) It probably needs a new front tire, since the one one is original is 10 years old. Not really sure where to start. I mostly ride in the city over lovely roads, so I guess predictability, durability and lifespan are more important than performance or anything. Size is 110/70-17. The previous owner put on an IRC RX-01 on the rear. 2) The tachometer doesn't work until the bike warms up. Is that normal? I'm pretty sure it's an electric tach (2004). It runs so it seems like the crank sensor must be working, and I can't figure out what else in the system would be affected by temperature. 3) A mechanic recommended putting a layer of WD-40 on the stanchions to prevent corrosion, since I live in San Francisco and it's damp. I've owned mountain bikes etc and WD-40 is not something I'd ever let touch a mountain bike, especially the fork stanchion, although mountain bike forks are aluminum and usually stored indoors so corrosion isn't a big deal. Still it seems weird; isn't the fork oil going to leave a layer of lube? Is the wd-40 ok for the seals? Should I use something else instead?
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Feb 5, 2015 02:54
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1. replace that piece of poo poo. 2. probably a cold solder joint on the cluster or a weak connection in your harness somewhere. 3. uh..wha? I've never given a poo poo to oil stanchion tubes. they're plated.
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Feb 5, 2015 03:02
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Pick up enough rock chips and it's no longer completely plated. I've seen bikes that live outside get super-pitted. I mean, if you're aspergers-level obsessed with the bike's maintenance, sure do it. It can't hurt. But it's a GS500. Hopefully you've chewed it up and spit it out in a couple years. Replace that tire though. Anything will be better than what you have.
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Feb 5, 2015 03:10
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clutchpuck posted:Replace that tire though. Anything will be better than what you have. This may seem like exagerration to you evensevenone, but it really isn't. If I have San Fran's climate right in my mind, stanchion corrosion is like the last thing you need to worry about.
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Feb 5, 2015 05:42
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Are rust spotted stanchions something that's easily fixed? I mean I assume you could just scrub it off but they'll remain at greater risk of getting rusty again than new ones. How much would their performance be affected post-scrubbing?
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Feb 5, 2015 06:23
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Every rust-pitted stanchion I've seen has been only above the seal travel area, unless the bike's been sitting in a mouldy shed for twenty years. Repair methods vary wildly in execution and effectiveness depending on what part of the internet your screen is pointed at. The only surefire way is removal and re-coating.
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Feb 5, 2015 06:28
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It seemed pretty stupid, which is why I asked. And yeah, they're plated and the plating seems fine.
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Feb 5, 2015 07:25
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clutchpuck posted:Replace that tire though. Anything will be better than what you have. This. Getting new rubber will make it feel like an entirely different bike. Replace both tires now. I have http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/35276/i/michelin-pilot-road-3-front-tire the ever so slightly more recent version of these on my FZ6. Hard in the center but still grip better than I am a rider towards the edges. 4-5kmi into mine and they're not even flat spotting yet. These http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/6163/i/michelin-pilot-power-front-tire are what I have on my DRZ-sm. Sticky as poo poo, but the rear probably won't last you much more than 3kmi. Front should be good for 6. E: These are just the ones I have experience with, and most people seem to like them. FWIW I'm replacing the pilot powers on my DRZ with BT-020s in another 3kmi. e2: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/10979559/d/street-bike-tires Marxalot fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 07:30
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Marxalot posted:This. Getting new rubber will make it feel like an entirely different bike. Replace both tires now. I take it you mean the Pilot Road 4? I have a PR4 front tire on my bike right now and its at 17k miles and looks fine, I believe I'll be reaching 25k miles on that tire, at least.
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Feb 5, 2015 09:56
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I wear out mine in 8k..f u
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Feb 5, 2015 10:18
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Marxalot posted:These http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/6163/i/michelin-pilot-power-front-tire are what I have on my DRZ-sm. Sticky as poo poo, but the rear probably won't last you much more than 3kmi. Front should be good for 6. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 10:34
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Schroeder91 posted:I take it you mean the Pilot Road 4? I have a PR4 front tire on my bike right now and its at 17k miles and looks fine, I believe I'll be reaching 25k miles on that tire, at least. Yeah, but it looks like they don't have PR4s in his bike's size, and afaik the PR3 is nearly the same. I run the 4s on mine and I don't think I've ever really lost traction aside from poo poo like gravel. They even seem pretty decent in the rain, but I have very little experience there so vOv. BlackMK4 posted:I was getting 4.5-5k out of a PP 2CT rear tire on three different 110+whp bikes. I've been through seven or eight sets of them. Very nice as a street tire, but I think the next time I own a street bike it's going to get a Pilot Road - there is no need for anything more. If you're on the track then move to something like the SBK Pro or DOT Dunlop; if you're on the road and you're on the throttle early enough or trail braking heavily enough to have issue with a PR then you're going too fast. But skipping the back tire out and almost lowsiding is fun~ Marxalot fucked around with this message at 10:48 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 10:46
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stock GS500's have lovely front suspension too, get that poo poo changed out if you have not already.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:04
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Don't bother. It is a GS500, replace consumables and save up for an upgrade.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:26
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EX250 Type R posted:Don't bother. It is a GS500, replace consumables and save up for an upgrade.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:59
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nsaP posted:I wear out mine in 8k..f u Just rotate 'em like they do with cars. You'll get a cool 4k extra, easy.
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Feb 5, 2015 18:47
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Sounds like the GS500 I bought as a first bike a few months ago, minus the tach issues. Mine had the original tires on front and back, and the back was nearly bald. I just picked up a set of Pirelli Sport Demon's at Cycle Gear and had them put on when they did the inspection.
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Feb 5, 2015 18:54
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Marxalot posted:Yeah, but it looks like they don't have PR4s in his bike's size, and afaik the PR3 is nearly the same. I run the 4s on mine and I don't think I've ever really lost traction aside from poo poo like gravel. They even seem pretty decent in the rain, but I have very little experience there so vOv. Yeah, I think I felt the PR4 on the front slide once, and the PR3 on the rear slid a bit when I hit tar snakes on a freeway curve in the rain a week or so ago. Other than that they grip pretty drat well.
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Feb 5, 2015 19:49
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I don't like the straight line grip of the PR4 on my FZ1 but I have no complaints about the tire otherwise. Maybe I'm just an rear end in a top hat with the throttle on lovely roads sometimes.
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Feb 5, 2015 19:57
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EX250 Type R posted:Don't bother. It is a GS500, replace consumables and save up for an upgrade. While I understand your stance, replacing the front shocks with something stiffer is a really worthwhile upgrade, and will really increase your enjoyment of the bike. I think it *IS* worth spending some coin on, even on a GS500. The stock shocks are really WAY too gooey. Most other "upgrades" i'd agree are not worth it. nitrogen fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 20:17
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Baller Witness Bro posted:I don't like the straight line grip of the PR4 on my FZ1 but I have no complaints about the tire otherwise. Maybe I'm just an rear end in a top hat with the throttle on lovely roads sometimes. I've had my rear want to lose grip a couple times on mine, until I checked the pressures and raised the rear's pressure a bit more. That's with PR2s though not PR4s (will probably replace with PR4s once these are done, probably sometime next year - they'll be getting too old by date code by then, even if I haven't used up all the tread).
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Feb 5, 2015 21:11
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Is the brakes being "too gooey" the reason I feel a short jerk forward followed by a sudden clunking stop when I apply the front brakes on my GS500? I've always thought it was due to the front piston things hitting the top of the cylinder they're housed in, but I've got no previous bike experience so I assumed it was normal. Maybe not?
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Feb 7, 2015 03:00
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Is this while rolling at over 5mph or only below 5mph?
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Feb 7, 2015 03:49
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Definitely over.
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Feb 7, 2015 06:38
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So, I'm not actually looking to buy a motorcycle anytime soon (my entire experience with two-wheeled motor vehicles is 'Hey, riding motor scooters at this empty state park is pretty fun'), but I am curious. I was looking at Cleveland CycleWerks, and was wondering, on a scale of 'Terrifying Chinese Potmetal Deathtrap' to 'Designed by Dr. Kevorkian Himself,' how bad is their stuff? One review I saw claimed the gauges were basically unreadable, due to vibration in the needles. I thought they were pretty nifty looking - my dad rode a Honda that I always thought was kind of cool in the 70s, and they sort of remind me of that. Apparently, though, all that styling stuff is some retro-hipster-fetish bullshit now?
DrankSinatra fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Feb 7, 2015 |
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Feb 7, 2015 07:18
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EkardNT posted:Is the brakes being "too gooey" the reason I feel a short jerk forward followed by a sudden clunking stop when I apply the front brakes on my GS500? I've always thought it was due to the front piston things hitting the top of the cylinder they're housed in, but I've got no previous bike experience so I assumed it was normal. Maybe not? Could be steering head bearings, could be fork shittyness, could be caliper piston/pad/slide fuckery, could just be business as usual for a GS500. Check errythang, or just forget about it.
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Feb 7, 2015 07:31
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