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kastein posted:the drat truck was left with the hood latched, doors locked, and the keys are 300 miles away, so it's not like I could have actually gotten started on the swap anyways. Welp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2f4kYwUezn0&t=12s
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Jan 25, 2015 23:41
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| # ? May 24, 2024 23:23 |
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This is very much a project I got roped into because it's his DD and then my dad wandered off to go skiing in a rental car, so I am perfectly happy to tidy up this motor and wait for him to be around to help out.
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Jan 25, 2015 23:47
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Just park the motor in the bombed out shell of your living room and let it fit in with the decor in the meantime?
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Jan 26, 2015 00:07
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Went to the junkyard today for an MJ dana 44 for Adiabatic. Got out the door with it for $140 including tax, not bad, they quoted me 160 over the phone Friday but didn't realize who was calling I guess. I buy probably 4k a year in parts from them, so they usually give me bulk discounts on stuff. Then I got it dragged out to the parking lot and got to thinking. Wonder how hard it would be to put dana 44s on a subaru forester? Turns out the answer is "not very hard", install was completed in well under an hour. Barely affected fuel economy, I got 22mpg on the way home and would recommend this mod to anyone considering it. Sorry, no in process pictures, as usual I forgot to take any until I was done.   the lug patterns don't match and I am not sure where I would mount the leaf springs to, of course I wasn't serious.E: oh yeah, a 98-00 red forester became a target of opportunity, I now have a good front passenger door for mine with no dents/scrapes. Only remaining bolton panels with significant damage are the hatch and the front fenders, and I've already bought the replacement fenders but not yet installed them. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jan 31, 2015 |
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Jan 31, 2015 23:05
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1. You're an incredible person. 2. Awesome transport method.
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Feb 1, 2015 05:03
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Haha I was thinking how the hell is that possible but I didn't doubt it because if anyone would try and succeed it would be you
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Feb 1, 2015 05:24
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Ya know I just kinda took it for granted that you'd actually mounted that axle as part of the suspension of the Subaru.
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Feb 1, 2015 05:31
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When I discovered the subframe was rotten as gently caress on this piece of poo poo about a month after I bought it, I actually debated installing a 4.10:1 geared disc brake converted 29 spline chrysler 8.25 I have sitting in my kitchen, but decided to just keep it factory instead. The thing understeers like a bitch right now, then snap oversteers if you lift, so driving it is not something to do while tired, but is otherwise quite manageable. I guess maybe I should take the 700lbs of parts and tools out of the trunk and off the roof and see how it handles. It also is trolling me really bad with the drat valve stems. Thursday morning I filled the tires, they were all even but low after a few months. By lunchtime the rear right was completely flat so I filled it back up. This morning the front left was completely flat, after being fine for several days. 
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Feb 2, 2015 15:03
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kastein posted:When I discovered the subframe was rotten as gently caress on this piece of poo poo about a month after I bought it, I actually debated installing a 4.10:1 geared disc brake converted 29 spline chrysler 8.25 I have sitting in my kitchen,
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Feb 2, 2015 17:36
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Valve stems were 2 dollars each at discount tire last week for me.
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Feb 2, 2015 22:34
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The wheels/tires on this thing are a long story. Basically, I have new studded snow tires for it and have had them since August, but they aren't on yet because I haven't had it aligned yet. I haven't had it aligned yet because while I've gone through almost all of the front suspension by now, I have all the parts on hand to redo the rear suspension, but haven't had a chance to do so because my parents house keeps falling apart, my house keeps falling apart, and my dad's truck keeps blowing up because he won't fix it till it stops moving. I don't want to spend money on an alignment only to have to do it again when I replace the rear suspension, and I don't want my new tires chewed up either. The tires that are currently on it have minimal life remaining, are starting to dry rot, and are pretty much garbage hockey pucks traction wise, so they are going away the second I get a chance. So basically, I have to do the rear suspension replacement and front CV shafts, then get it aligned, then have the new tires put on at which point they'll be doing the valvestems by default. I'm reasonably certain I just got a bunch of garbage and road salt/sand stuck in the valve stems when I filled them up at a service station Thursday morning. So I dicked around with them and tried to knock everything out each time a tire went flat, hopefully I've succeeded.
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Feb 3, 2015 01:44
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I bought a lifetime alignment from Firestone last week with new tires (they also beat tire racks price). Was $150. Your mileage may vary by local shop, but they seemed to do a good job, and correctly pointed out a failing front wheel bearing. I'm doing ball joints, front bearings, and shocks all the way around, then taking it back later this week for my first free alignment. Also, I'm used to small cars.... Truck parts are friggin expensive.
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Feb 3, 2015 03:31
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angryrobots posted:I bought a lifetime alignment from Firestone last week with new tires (they also beat tire racks price). Was $150. I did that for my XJ thinking I could just take it back whenever I wanted to get the alignment tweaked, except they added shims into the passenger LCA and caused massive deathwobble as soon as I hit a bump on the highway at 60mph. I then had to argue with them because they wouldn't refund my money and I had to go back home and bring them the shims as proof before they finally gave the money back. The manager only relinquished after I wrote a letter to Firestone Corporate and showed it to him. That said, I wouldn't let Firestone near any lifted Jeep ever again.
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Feb 3, 2015 03:51
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Yeah, this is a stock Tundra, DD and tow vehicle. I wouldn't take a lifted truck up there, or any chain shop really. One of the guys I work with is catching hell trying to get his brand new lifted bro truck GMC aligned. Wearing out his brand new m/t tires right quick. That being said, if you can judge a book by its cover, the guys at this place look like car dorks and their personal vehicles look like AI. AND not four months ago, I took the truck to a local independent tire shop, rotate and balance and specifically told them to check the wheel bearings because there was a noise. They said everything looked good and was just worn tires. It was not just the tires. 
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Feb 3, 2015 04:26
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Well, I inspected the bores on the new 3.0 for my dad's truck last night, crosshatching is still visible. Rods feel fine but will be popping the rod/main caps and taking a look anyways. Replaced the spark plugs last night, they were badly worn but came out just fine. And the M22x1.5 tap to clean out the EGR bung threads in the manifold showed up today so nothing's blocking this project now. Guess I will work on it tomorrow night since I am busy tonight. The only real lovely thing left in the way is the four broken off studs in the exhaust ports on the heads. God what a lovely design, I hit them with oxy/mapp last night to try and take some of the temper out so they're softer than the drill bit but who knows if it got anywhere, the torch was too small to really heat it up much.
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Feb 4, 2015 18:53
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Not sure if your dad fully realizes and appreciates what you're doing for him, but he sure as poo poo should.
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Feb 4, 2015 19:16
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Are the studs poking out at all or they broken off flush? I'm always reminded of the denmah video of the snap on stud tool which looks like it makes miracles happen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJi3G2oUOfY
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Feb 4, 2015 19:19
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3 are broken off flush and one sticks out about 1/8". It previously stuck out 1/2" (previous owner of the engine broke it off and left it that way!), but I've already broken the end off twice trying to unscrew it with heat, hammering on the end, etc. Problem is, these heads are designed in an asinine way (oh right it's a Ford) and they are through drilled so garbage gets in the threads from the back. Far worse than a normal engine where they just seize in from one side, but at least I can through drill and nut it if I really have to.
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Feb 4, 2015 19:31
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kastein posted:through drilled so garbage gets in the threads from the back. Far worse than a normal engine where they just seize in from one side, but at least I can through drill and nut it if I really have to. What in the actual gently caress.
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Feb 4, 2015 19:47
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Slow is Fast posted:What in the actual gently caress. I will punch the person who came up with this idea in the balls so hard they end up with four kidneys if I ever meet them.  The best part? There's literally no reason. They could have made that part of the head (the 3 flanges for the top manifold bolts) a boss instead of a flange, and I'd already be done. But some fuckwit decided it should be like that. Probably the same retard who made the bottom row line up perfectly with THE loving HEAD BOLT HOLES. I pulled exhaust bolts out and realized I was looking at head bolt threads and was very glad I didn't have to drill those ones out, because drilling into the side of a head bolt is not something I wish to experience.
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Feb 4, 2015 20:12
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Slow is Fast posted:Are the studs poking out at all or they broken off flush? Holy poo poo this must be what a religious miracle is like for people who can still feel authentic joy.
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Feb 4, 2015 22:10
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo this must be what a religious miracle is like for people who can still feel authentic joy. You aren't kidding. I do a lot of triton 5.4 exhaust manifolds and the studs always snap. This would make those jobs more bearable. I may actually buy a tool of the snap on guy this week.
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Feb 5, 2015 01:49
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Go to an industrial tool supply place and buy a 3 flute carbide drill to drill the stuff out. They work kinda like end mills that drill. Or you can try welding a nut on the end of them, just lather the surrounding area with anti spatter so you don't weld onto the presumably steel head.
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Feb 5, 2015 14:54
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It's a cast iron head, but yeah, either way that would suck. They're so small I doubt I'm going to get anywhere except for making the bolts harder by welding to them. Carbide drill is an interesting idea, though... and reminds me. Here's where I take your great machinist/fabricator idea and add some banjos. All my friends who build offroad trucks use carbide tipped masonry bits (yes you read that right) when they need to open up the center pin bolt hole in a leaf spring pack to install a larger bolt. I figure they'll be more tolerant of me loving up, too, since they're meant to be used in hammer drills on concrete and stone. It looks like mcmaster and grainger can only get me a carbide bit for like 50-80 bucks and several days of waiting, so I'm going to use a masonry bit. I'm not sure if we have a local tooling supply place but if we do, they'll likely be closed before I get out of work.
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Feb 5, 2015 17:46
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kastein posted:It's a cast iron head, but yeah, either way that would suck. Just do me a favor and blast this in the background while you are inventing new swear words to curse at the cylinder heads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waxfGlK5mis The thought of the masonry bit skipping around, hammer drill cracking' away at the cylinder head, sparks shooting everywhere... goddamn. Make sure you give a loud "YEE HAWW" at the end for me too. Edit: I know you're not using a hammer drill, but in my mind it makes it such a beautiful thing.
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Feb 5, 2015 20:00
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Ripoff posted:Just do me a favor and blast this in the background while you are inventing new swear words to curse at the cylinder heads: http://youtubedoubler.com/?video1=h...rName=Ken+Banjo Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Feb 5, 2015 |
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Feb 5, 2015 21:28
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HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
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Feb 5, 2015 22:05
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Night made. Off to the pub giggling like a fanny.
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Feb 6, 2015 00:41
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Feb 6, 2015 02:02
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Feb 6, 2015 03:53
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I'm honestly surprised the masonry bits hold up, and it probably works because there is already a hole in the center. I expect those to walk right off your broken stud. Those drill bits sure are pricey! Sorry you get out of touch with those things when you have a cabinets full of them (yay corporate). Another option that you can buy at ace hardware (I think) are Cobalt drills. Much more tolerant to heat than regular drill bits. I use those to enlarge the holes in turbine housings for Volvo turbos. Just make sure you use a lot of oil, more pressure, less rpm.
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Feb 6, 2015 04:09
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I was expecting more along the lines of Dueling Banjos. It'll do...  (I laughed myself silly) mafoose posted:I'm honestly surprised the masonry bits hold up, and it probably works because there is already a hole in the center. I expect those to walk right off your broken stud. I have a Secret Plan to combat this 
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Feb 6, 2015 04:11
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Brilliant 
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Feb 6, 2015 04:59
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well, that made my day.
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Feb 6, 2015 09:33
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Excellent way to start the day
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Feb 6, 2015 12:00
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kastein posted:Stuff you need for the transmission: I finally got around to ordering some stuff: -The throwout bearing and trans mount bushing -The shifter seat, tcase shift linkages, shift turret boot - I received the Chryco 8.25 parts a couple weeks ago (Ubolts/plates/shock mounts). I still haven't ordered springs or shocks yet but they're on the list. I did start working on field stripping the D30 and 8.25 so that I can prepare them for painting.
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Feb 6, 2015 20:47
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Be careful what you paint on the d30, especially don't paint the wheel bearing areas, balljoints, pinion/yoke, or axleshafts/ujoints. The rest for the most part is open season. My company23 subaru axleshaft roll pin tool came in the mail today so it was time to possibly solve the rhythmic shaking of the drivetrain every time I gave it more than about 1/4 throttle in 2nd-4th gears. I was pretty sure it was a binding CV, and probably the left one... First, I found out that the PO's mechanic hamfucked the rollpin, only about 80% of it remained. Old, new:  Then I checked the old CV shaft rotational play and compared it to the new one. HOLY gently caress! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MggfKMt6jZw Yeah it was pretty much chooched. Put the new one in, torqued everything to spec, test drive, and... it doesn't shake even a tiny bit at full throttle in any gear. Much better.
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Feb 7, 2015 07:58
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kastein posted:
Argghhhh, roll pins! My AR-15 lower building PTSD! TRIGGER WARNING THAT poo poo!
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Feb 7, 2015 22:15
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ACEofsnett posted:Argghhhh, roll pins! My AR-15 lower building PTSD! TRIGGER WARNING THAT poo poo! Pussy.
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Feb 7, 2015 22:43
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Ozmiander posted:Pussy. I'm sorry, i over reacted. 
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Feb 8, 2015 01:09
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