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dorkasaurus_rex posted:
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Feb 8, 2015 12:50
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Welp. The back lens element on my Yashica Mat 124G.  Can't imagine that being anything other than fungus.
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Feb 8, 2015 14:00
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 Tetanus Red by zacharytong, on Flickr EDIT:  Winter Moss by zacharytong, on Flickr polyfractal fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Feb 8, 2015 |
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Feb 8, 2015 20:03
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Has anyone found that velvia sheets (4x5) "curl" in holders? I had some holders that had been siting in a ziplock bag, relatively cool, in a drawer for a few/couple of weeks, changed them today and when I went to slip my finger underneath the sheet every single one had "curled upwards"? Is this a sign of the film going wayward or anything I should be worried about?
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Feb 9, 2015 14:38
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Sludge Tank posted:Has anyone found that velvia sheets (4x5) "curl" in holders? I had some holders that had been siting in a ziplock bag, relatively cool, in a drawer for a few/couple of weeks, changed them today and when I went to slip my finger underneath the sheet every single one had "curled upwards"? Is this a sign of the film going wayward or anything I should be worried about? I had some Astia do something similar during my trip to Ethiopia - the sheets were flat in the holders, but as soon as I took them out they had a strong curl to them. Unless you loaded the holders wrong I don't think there's anything to worry about.
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Feb 9, 2015 18:46
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Sometimes shooting with large format lets me shoot some stuff I wouldn't normally think of shooting with medium format, because I have to bring a bloody tripod around. Stairwell, Pearl Centre by alkanphel, on Flickr alkanphel fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 01:36
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Finally got a lens hood so poo poo like this doesn't happen anymore. Untitled by Dev Luns, on Flickr
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Feb 10, 2015 22:45
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Well, the first roll of film on my new camera is wasted. Got a Hasselblad 500 C/M, and have been using it with an A12 back. Every so often when I was playing with it, I would wind it and cock the shutter, and the shutter would refuse to fire. To fix the issue, I took out the film holder and that removal allowed the shutter to fire. I noticed there's one little flat pin and a gear that connect between the body and the back. While trying to assess the issue, the shutter got stuck again except I didn't have the film holder in. I can't seem to figure out any way to fire the shutter, which is now preventing me from removing the back. Is this a common thing? Any way to fix it myself, or if I need to send it in, is it the body or the back most likely? Before anyone asks, yes, the dark slide is out. edit: ugh, I feel like I'm not cut out for medium/large format. I can't seem to ever get a camera that works or doesn't have fungus. luchadornado fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 01:46
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Helicity posted:Well, the first roll of film on my new camera is wasted. The only thing that shold prevent you from removing the film back is the darkslide. Whether the body is fired or not has nothing to do with the back. Sounds a lot more like an issue with the body. Perhaps there's some dried grease or worn gear that's not moving properly at random.
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Feb 12, 2015 02:09
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Thanks, I'll check with KEH to see what they want me to do. Is there a recommended place to get CLAs done on blads?
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Feb 12, 2015 02:33
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Helicity posted:Well, the first roll of film on my new camera is wasted. Hmmmm where did you get the body from? If you didn't get it from a trusted source (like KEH), it might not have been CLA'd in a while (if ever). If you got it from KEH contact them and they will replace it. If not, get in contact with this man: http://www.david-odess.com/ Awesome guy that knows what the gently caress he is doing. It will take a while for the repair to happen (took about 3 weeks when I shipped him a busted body) but he does such a good job with calibrating it, that it is definitely worth it. Send in both the body and the back and lens so he can inspect all of it. Don't give up on the system! I would sooner trade in all of my digital and 35mm gear before ever considering touching my Hassey as it is easily the best camera that I have ever owned. Once it's been CLA'd it will perform like it was brand new and will make some pretty incredible images. EDIT: just saw you got it from KEH, get in contact with them for sure.
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Feb 12, 2015 02:36
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pootiebigwang posted:Finally got a lens hood so poo poo like this doesn't happen anymore. What camera? My Yashica-D flares if I happen to think about the sun and a hood did absolutely dick to fix it. I'm going to flock the inside to end this nonsense for good.
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Feb 12, 2015 03:19
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I think I've cleared any backlog of negatives that aren't complete rubbish, I guess it's time to take more photos.
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Feb 12, 2015 15:06
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voodoorootbeer posted:What camera? My Yashica-D flares if I happen to think about the sun and a hood did absolutely dick to fix it. I'm going to flock the inside to end this nonsense for good. Hasselblad 500 C/M, I'm hoping it helps. It's a pretty big hood so it should shade some of that flare out. At least I hope it does, it should be in the mail today so I will have to test it out then.
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Feb 12, 2015 17:14
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So I'm looking to buy a Mamiya 7 or 7ii. One is being sold for $1500 with an 80mm. Condition looks excellent. 2 questions: is the 7 worth $1500; is there much of a difference between the 7 and the 7ii? I've heard the difference is barely worth the jump in price, can anyone confirm?
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Feb 14, 2015 01:02
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 Tanglin by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Feb 14, 2015 01:36
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bobmarleysghost posted:So I'm looking to buy a Mamiya 7 or 7ii. The 7II apparently adds multiple exposure capability, a different strap lug configuration, and a slightly different (maybe more contrasty) rangefinder. So no, there's not that much difference between the versions. $1500 is a fair price for a 7 with a lens, I think.
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Feb 14, 2015 03:15
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Yea I read about those differences and they seem pretty superficial for me.
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Feb 14, 2015 03:54
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Yeah I looked into it pretty thoroughly when I got my 7 and couldn't see a reason to pay $500 more for the 7ii
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Feb 14, 2015 07:01
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Yond Cassius, your Astia finally made it back from the developer. South Bethany by voodoorootbeer, on Flickr  South Bethany by voodoorootbeer, on Flickr
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Feb 14, 2015 18:57
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Managed to clean the lens in my Yashica, much better now. The skylight windows here would have had massive bleeding with the previous fungal coating.   I need a better digitizing/scanning method for medium format.
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Feb 14, 2015 19:06
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Shooting at Shark Fin Mountain in Antarctica today. I did a 'Sludge Tank' and failed the check that the battery in my light meter wasn't dead before we went on a Haggland trip. I guesstimated these exposure at around 1/30 at f/16-f/17-18 on RVP50. Does that look/sound about right, considering the mountain is in nearly full sunlight? If not is there any development I should suggest to the lab to save them? I'd hate for these shots to be bunked! iPhone light meter app proved pretty useless and was giving me readings that didn't sound right at all (like 1/1000 @ f/16 ISO 50 when pointed at the palm of my hand)  That's not snow, it's ice. My tripod doesn't have pins in it so the tiniest gust of wind and the tripod would just slide across the ice. Got a heap of boxes so far from this trip... should be home in about 6 or so weeks and looking forward to getting them developed.
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Feb 15, 2015 16:21
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Get the Expositor iPhone app, it'll help you guess exposures better. Looks like EV11 - Cloud covered daylight, areas in open shade with clear sunlight At ISO 50 it says to use 1/4s at f16 You might be 2-3 stops over underexposed BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 15, 2015 20:12
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i've been shooting a mamiya c3 i bought off a dorkroomer, i finally have a dev process down that doesn't gently caress up my negatives and im getting some nice stuff i think old town deer by mydoski, on Flickrthe clarity of medium format 
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Feb 15, 2015 20:26
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Sludge Tank posted:Shooting at Shark Fin Mountain in Antarctica today. I did a 'Sludge Tank' and failed the check that the battery in my light meter wasn't dead before we went on a Haggland trip. I guesstimated these exposure at around 1/30 at f/16-f/17-18 on RVP50. Does that look/sound about right, considering the mountain is in nearly full sunlight? If not is there any development I should suggest to the lab to save them? I'd hate for these shots to be bunked! I think you're hosed. Assuming you metered off your (presumably Caucasian) hand in the direct sun, 1/1000 @ f/16 @ ISO 50 is EV 19 (EV 18 + 1 stop, because ISO 50.) That's probably high, but we'll roll with it for the assumptions of this post. Velvia 50 has very little exposure latitude, because it's high-contrast transparency film. You might have 4 stops of dynamic range to work with in total. Based on what I've read about Velvia, you probably only needed to open up one or maybe two stops to put the highlights in the right place. 1/30 @ f/16 @ ISO 50 is EV 12, which is 6 or 7 stops more exposure than metered for the very brightest thing in the scene, likely even more once you factor in the contrast characteristics of the medium. Who knows, I wasn't there and I have no idea how you metered. Even with an iPhone meter, though, a reading that high should have given you pause. Hurf durf learn the Zone System. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 15, 2015 20:36
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TheJeffers posted:I think you're hosed.
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Feb 15, 2015 21:14
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Sludge Tank posted:Shooting at Shark Fin Mountain in Antarctica today. I did a 'Sludge Tank' and failed the check that the battery in my light meter wasn't dead before we went on a Haggland trip. I guesstimated these exposure at around 1/30 at f/16-f/17-18 on RVP50. Does that look/sound about right, considering the mountain is in nearly full sunlight? If not is there any development I should suggest to the lab to save them? I'd hate for these shots to be bunked! Sunny 16 means the mountain is probably properly exposed but it looks like everything else is under some cloud cover and probably 1-3 stops underexposed.
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Feb 15, 2015 21:28
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First roll through the replacement Mamiya TLR from KEH. I didn't use enough developer and had to crop the edge of the frame. Then it was curly as gently caress when it dried, so I laid the film under a stack of paper to flatten, and the emulsion ended up sticking to and picking up fibers from the surface I set it on. As a result, I only have one passable shot from the whole roll: img530Medium format is as dope as it gets.
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Feb 15, 2015 22:48
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mulls posted:First roll through the replacement Mamiya TLR from KEH. I didn't use enough developer and had to crop the edge of the frame. Then it was curly as gently caress when it dried, so I laid the film under a stack of paper to flatten, and the emulsion ended up sticking to and picking up fibers from the surface I set it on. As a result, I only have one passable shot from the whole roll: How do you dry your film? You might need more weight on the hanging end if it's curling too much.
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Feb 15, 2015 22:56
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MrBlandAverage posted:How do you dry your film? You might need more weight on the hanging end if it's curling too much. I steamed up a bathroom and then hung it in the shower to dry with a bag clip on the bottom, like I do for my 35mm film. The film curled a lot around an axis parallel to the length of the film, which made it fall through the middle of my Epson film holder.
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Feb 15, 2015 23:06
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Feb 15, 2015 23:11
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That is hot
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Feb 15, 2015 23:21
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Red hot
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Feb 15, 2015 23:27
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 Pipes, Joo Chiat by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Feb 16, 2015 00:15
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alkanphel posted:
So good.
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Feb 16, 2015 00:22
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mulls posted:So good. Thanks!
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Feb 16, 2015 00:24
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please please plz get this again at night
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Feb 16, 2015 00:50
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Fuckin' fire.
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Feb 16, 2015 02:46
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Quantum of Phallus posted:please please plz get this again at night 1300 miles too far for a night trip
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Feb 16, 2015 03:38
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How's the skin tone here? Simone by dorkasaurus_rex, on Flickr
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Feb 16, 2015 18:27
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