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Sounds like a situation tailor-made for this guy: http://www.homedepot.com/p/STUDOR-1-1-2-in-or-2-in-PVC-Mini-Vent-Adapter-20341/202275238 Are those not allowed there by code or something?
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Feb 15, 2015 21:25
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slap me silly posted:Sounds like a situation tailor-made for this guy: Thanks for the suggestion. It's allowed, but my buddy would prefer to run it to the roof. The wall is open because he's been working on that side of the house.
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Feb 15, 2015 21:31
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slap me silly posted:Sounds like a situation tailor-made for this guy: Many, many places around here do not allow those even though they are admissible in the UPC and CAPC
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Feb 15, 2015 21:52
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Jadunk posted:Many, many places around here do not allow those even though they are admissible in the UPC and CAPC Seems like it should be the last option even if it's allowed, but I'm no expert.
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Feb 15, 2015 22:13
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I've never understood why people get so up in arms about them. They are extremely simple devices and are trivial to replace if they ever go bad. But I'm no expert either!
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Feb 15, 2015 22:31
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My guess is that it's because people hide them in walls. As long as they are accessible to swap out they are a great product.
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Feb 16, 2015 02:53
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I've got a Delta Multichoice 14 shower head, which has an adjustment to control the maximum temperature of the water that comes out. It's the thing described in the first part of this video, the one where he has to take the plastic disk of first: http://www.deltafaucet.com/shopping-tools/research/video-gallery/video.html?v=n2_uZ7wgV1I&cat= I've got no idea why it is, but even with it set to the maximum level, and my water heater at 150 degrees, it's still too cold after a few minutes. So I'd really like to just remove them drat Rotational Limit Stop so I can get showers as hot as I'd like them through the entire shower. Bonus if I can turn down the water heater because 150 degrees is insane.
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Feb 16, 2015 17:45
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Why do you think that's causing the problem?
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Feb 16, 2015 17:49
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It used to be set really low, so the hottest I could make the shower was 100 degrees (checked with thermometer). Now that I've adjusted it, the hottest is 120 degrees (again, checked with thermometer). But as you take a shower the temperature of the hot water drops, meaning I have to keep making it a little bit hotter. When I get into the shower I might set it at 110, which is not the maximum. But as the shower goes on I'll have to crank it up to the max to keep that 110, or maybe at that point the max will only get me 105. So I want the max to be higher.
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Feb 16, 2015 18:36
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It seems rather unlikely to me that they would intentionally design a shower valve that won't mix less than 1/3rd cold water, since that wouldn't leave them with very many satisfied customers. It seems much more likely to me that something in your system is not functioning correctly, such as the pressure balancing cartridge or your water heater.
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Feb 16, 2015 19:39
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Zhentar posted:It seems rather unlikely to me that they would intentionally design a shower valve that won't mix less than 1/3rd cold water, since that wouldn't leave them with very many satisfied customers. It seems much more likely to me that something in your system is not functioning correctly, such as the pressure balancing cartridge or your water heater. I had to turn up my hot water heater to get my new shower hot enough to take an enjoyable shower. The bathtub right next to the shower is maybe 5-7 degrees warmer according to a meat thermometer. E: PuTTY riot posted:My meat thermometer died, new one came in. 117 in the close-to-hwh tub. 114 or so in the far tub, and 109 in the far shower( separate from tub entirely) PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Feb 16, 2015 |
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Feb 16, 2015 20:30
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I don't know what to tell you, when I start taking a shower the water coming out of the water heater is 150 degrees, as time goes on it's less. I can verify that the water that comes out of the faucet in the bathroom is 150.
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Feb 16, 2015 20:57
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If 109 isn't warm enough to be an enjoyable shower, your standards are unusually high. For pressure balancing valves to work, they need to let in some minimum amount of cold water. Dropping 120 degree water down to 110 isn't letting much cold water in (maybe 15% or so) and is probably about as good as can be done in a cheap residential valve. FISHMANPET posted:I don't know what to tell you, when I start taking a shower the water coming out of the water heater is 150 degrees, as time goes on it's less. I can verify that the water that comes out of the faucet in the bathroom is 150. That's a good start. What's the water temperature from the faucet after the shower isn't warm enough anymore? Zhentar fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Feb 16, 2015 |
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Feb 16, 2015 21:21
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Is the water heater electric? Maybe only the upper element is functioning, so you've only got a minimum of shower time before hitting lukewarm water.
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Feb 17, 2015 05:23
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The condensate drain on my new water heater allegedly uses 3/4" PVC. But it's got an OD of 1.1" rather than the standard 1.05"  Any tips for making my fitting fit?
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Feb 18, 2015 03:59
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I have a double sink/disposer question. My house was built in 1968. We are in the process of completing a kitchen remodel and we added a double sink (33" Kohler). Also upgraded the old disposer from a 1/2hp Badger to a 1hp Waste King. I have done all the work myself. Now, when I run the disposer, the water backs up in the opposite sink. After I shut it off, I get a few bubbles, then a very slow drain. I redid the drain pipe, and bought a hand auger and crammed it in about 12 feet. Got some goopy crap, but no solid clogs. This is my first foray into double sinks so I am annoyed. We never had any clog or backup issues with the old single drain sink. I guess my 2 concerns are a possible clog further down the line that would require a plumber to power auger, and a possible clogged vent issue. I plan to go up on the roof tomorrow weather permitting to check the vent. Is there anything else I could try before I call for help, which I hate to do (plus I am cheap)? Sink:  Pipes: (yes, I need to do something about the pullout hose)  Drain and Vent from opposite side of wall (taken 6 years ago). the old cast DW vent was removed, but not the pvc with with p-trap. 
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Feb 18, 2015 05:37
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 that rubber collar does not look good.
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Feb 18, 2015 05:52
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PainterofCrap posted:
And it is now behind a finished wall with baseboard trim. 
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Feb 18, 2015 06:17
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How do I keep my pipes from freezing? Which tap do I leave on, hot, cold or both? This is something I don't usually have to worry about; this is actually the first time ever. Seems like leaving the hot tap dripping all night might tax my water heater too much. Then again, I don't want that to freeze either.
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Feb 19, 2015 04:32
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QuarkMartial posted:How do I keep my pipes from freezing? Which tap do I leave on, hot, cold or both? This isn't nearly enough information. Why and where do you think they will freeze? What part of the country are you in (average temps to indicate average freeze protection) and how much colder is it getting than that? The answer can range from "you're fine; do nothing" to "you're hosed; drain the lines right now before they freeze and make a mess of things."
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Feb 19, 2015 05:47
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QuarkMartial posted:How do I keep my pipes from freezing? Which tap do I leave on, hot, cold or both? I got this email the other day: 
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Feb 19, 2015 06:30
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QuarkMartial posted:How do I keep my pipes from freezing? Which tap do I leave on, hot, cold or both? Both, a steady drip should be good. It should be drops, not a constant stream. For the hot water heater, you can flip the breaker and wake up a little bit earlier than you'd need it for a shower. In the past I've noticed that even with a bathroom and kitchen dripping I had some hot water left. Payoff bonus for me: I got pissed off at my water heater last year for cutting on every single time I ran hot water for 10 seconds to wash my hands, so I put it on a timer. Now I don't have to worry about cutting it off for the cold since it's already off most of the time, and cuts back on by itself.
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Feb 19, 2015 07:37
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Mounting an antenna on a vent pipe is a terrible idea for a lot of different reasons, right? Besides what would have to be an awkward/ugly grounding wire, it seems like it could tear up the vent pipe/roof.
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Feb 19, 2015 16:14
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Yes, it is a bad idea. Also, http://www.ventenna.com/Ham-Description.html
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Feb 19, 2015 18:41
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slap me silly posted:Yes, it is a bad idea. Also, http://www.ventenna.com/Ham-Description.html I think the plan is going to be a gable end mount. Drilling into my new asphalt shingles is not something I want to do, and I'm not HOA'd out of a big ugly antenna, just curious what my options are. That stealth antenna is really cool though.
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Feb 19, 2015 19:11
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Goon buying his first home in Northeast Wisconsin here. We just spent the morning with the home inspector. Everything went really well and the home is in great shape. I have only one concern: I do not have a better image. There are roots collecting in the bottom of the sump pump crock. It looks like a mound of grey pine needles collecting about 8-12 inches below the water's surface with a few strands coming in from the side inlet pipe(?). I think that the roots may be blocking the pump's ability to pull water out of the crock. I have no experience and no real idea what I'm talking about. According to the inspector, the basement does not appear to have ever taken flood damage. The home inspector didn't have much to say about it other than suggesting that we have the very healthy-looking bush growing outside of the house above where the pump is located removed and have whatever's in there pulled out. I have no idea how serious this problem is. I don't even know for certain if that bush is where the roots are coming from. I have no idea what I'm doing. Please tell me what to do before I gently caress everything up. We are currently suggesting to the seller agent that the current owners pay to have the crock cleaned-out.
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Feb 21, 2015 20:51
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I'd want to have the weeping tile inspected with a camera and cleaned. Chances are good there's a bunch of stuff growing into it.
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Feb 21, 2015 20:57
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Is it worth asking the seller to remove the roots? The inspector noted that they were present in the pump crock, but did not list it as a major concern in his report at all.
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Feb 21, 2015 21:03
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My house's plumbing is a nightmare of incompetence, the result of a previous owner being a DIYer without doing research apparently, and my home inspector not cluing me into how asinine it is. The main issue is that everything runs on a single stack stinkpipe, which was cut short when an expansion was built into the roof, so it's venting into the floor. Additionally, two sinks were put in a bathroom at one point but neither has adequate traps, meaning they fill each other (inadequate venting?) and one gurgles when the other drains, and so on. On top of this, he offset a second waste line at one point for that expansion upstairs (supposed to be a bathroom someday I guess) but never finished the work, I think he died before I could figure out what the gently caress his "vision" was. I am hoping to put this expansion in service as a bathroom at some point. Among the things I know I'm going to need to do are 1) properly loving vent the main pipe. 2) also vent this offset waste line. Regarding 1, I understand there's probably some math on ventilation to see if it's adequate height. If I continue to run it vertical it will go straight through part of this room, so I'm wondering if I can't offset it? My understanding is that so long as I never go back down in the direction of the source, because it's gas, it is okay? On part 2, can I connect that vent pipe into the other vent pipe, again so long as I never go in a downward direction with it? I will get photos up here at some point, I'm about to install the walls and ceilings in that room on a temp basis just so I can properly insulate it again, since he stripped the insulation when he built the expansion and then croaked before finishing things like "walls" or "ceilings" so this attic expansion is totally unventilated and fuckin' with my heating/cooling this winter. I will take some while I do that. I am also wondering if it is possible to just hire a plumber to do the design for the rework on this without hiring them to do the labor, is that a thing people do?
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Feb 22, 2015 16:40
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After doing a bit of research I've discovered that my problem isn't really much of a problem at all. The only real maintenance it will require is going to be pulling a small batch of roots out from the crock every six to eight months. The only real alternative would be to have the very VERY large tree growing on the city terrace removed in order to prevent the roots from coming in through the inlet pipe. I guess this is just going to be my cross to bear while owning a very old home. At least it isn't cracking the foundation or sump crock.
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Feb 22, 2015 19:18
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Helmholz posted:very VERY large tree growing ...... At least it isn't cracking the foundation or sump crock. That you know of/yet. I would be wary of a house where evidence of root infiltration exists.
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Feb 22, 2015 21:51
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I would be highly suspicious of any claims that roots intruding into a pipe haven't caused damage.
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Feb 23, 2015 03:48
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I have a thing built from aluminum parts with seams that needs to be completely waterproof from the outside and oil proof from the inside. Any recommendations what silicone caulking to use? I'd like something that dries white and has minimal shrinkage. I have to take these things apart to repair them from time to time and clean off the old silicon, so I'd like something that doesn't have a high adhesive factor. Also, it would need to be dispensed from something like a toothpaste tube (as opposed to a caulking gun) as I don't use very much at a time and would like whatever I buy to last a couple years. Any suggestions?
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Feb 27, 2015 04:49
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SkunkDuster posted:I have a thing built from aluminum parts with seams that needs to be completely waterproof from the outside and oil proof from the inside. Any recommendations what silicone caulking to use? I'd like something that dries white and has minimal shrinkage. I have to take these things apart to repair them from time to time and clean off the old silicon, so I'd like something that doesn't have a high adhesive factor. Also, it would need to be dispensed from something like a toothpaste tube (as opposed to a caulking gun) as I don't use very much at a time and would like whatever I buy to last a couple years. Any suggestions? Does it have to come apart? Can you just epoxy the thing shut? Also, caulk tubes of any type do not last a couple years. Once you open them, the clock is ticking.
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Mar 1, 2015 01:00
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I caulked an entire sink with two-year-old caulk. It didn't set. I was loving pissed.
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Mar 1, 2015 01:14
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SkunkDuster posted:I have a thing built from aluminum parts with seams that needs to be completely waterproof from the outside and oil proof from the inside. Any recommendations what silicone caulking to use? I'd like something that dries white and has minimal shrinkage. I have to take these things apart to repair them from time to time and clean off the old silicon, so I'd like something that doesn't have a high adhesive factor. Also, it would need to be dispensed from something like a toothpaste tube (as opposed to a caulking gun) as I don't use very much at a time and would like whatever I buy to last a couple years. Any suggestions? Order some gasket material suitable to your application and cut to fit. That or squeeze some RTV on there and deal with cleaning it off / reapplying it when you disassemble it.
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Mar 1, 2015 21:12
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Yes it has to come apart, so epoxy isn't going to work. Gasket material won't work, either, because it is sealing parts that are touching each other and also used to fill in the heads (and threads) of Phillips screws. I think I went into too much detail and overcomplicated things, so I'll rephrase the question. What is a good type of caulking with minimal shrinkage that dries white, comes in a resealable container, and isn't impossible to remove?
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Mar 3, 2015 03:42
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I would probably go with something like this: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/162ml-white-alex-plus-acrylic-latex-caulk-with-silicone-35-yr/941846
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Mar 3, 2015 06:40
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So I got curious that we might have excessively high water pressure (water hammer, sputtery fixtures) so I bought a pressure gauge. Turns out our water pressure sits around 105 psi static and I've seen it blip up to around 130 when fixtures are used. House is built in 1978 with copper piping. As far as I know it never had a pressure reducing valve and just set to whatever pressure the municipal supply is set to. (Main shut off and meter is at the curb, and I would need to crawl into the crawlspace to see where the main line comes in the house) How concerned about this should I be? It's possible its been like this for nearly 40 years and totally fine. On the other hand, it's possible its been like this for nearly 40 years and those pipes could be beaten to point of failure.
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Mar 7, 2015 01:12
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130's uncomfortable. Your water tank's relief valve probably opens at 150. I'd head into that crawlspace and see if there's a PRV. Having just gone through this myself, I can say it was responsible for a whole host of problems I hadn't fully realized, and you may well be in a high pressure zone, which means your pressure could even be higher than that. There should be a number for your city water supply, I'd give them a call and just check what the pressure should be, and if you're in a high pressure zone. If you are, and you find you don't have a PRV on the house, you should install one ASAP.
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Mar 7, 2015 01:31
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