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skylineboy08 posted:Also the fact that you kind of have to tear everything apart in the front of the motor to get the fan shroud and then the radiator out. Maybe it's a year model change?
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Jan 31, 2015 16:59
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zundfolge posted:It's a thousand times easier than replacing a 240 heater core. All you have to do is drain the coolant, take off the panels on the bottom of the dash, R&R the core, and put the dash back together. The only difficult part is putting the core back into the heater box without bending the fins. I've found that it helps to take the evaporator drain tube off the nipple it connects to on the floor-it gives you a few more inches of clearance when you're trying to get everything lined up. My 850 had the stereo amp bolted in somewhere back there, and it took me a solid half hour to get it back in because of how little clearance there was. Apparently they only did that for certain trims, like platinum and cross country. skylineboy08 posted:Maybe that's why my windshield is always filmy. It doesn't smell sweet inside like its leaking and there's no loss of coolant though. It starts really slow, but at some point you will start loosing a more noticeable amount of coolant. Could be quite a while. I noticed a film shortly after I bought my car, but the smell didn't happen for a year and a half.
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Jan 31, 2015 19:15
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I forgot about the amp. My XC doesn't have one and the one in my R lives under the passenger seat, and since the latter doesn't have the center speaker there's no Dolby box under the dash either.
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Jan 31, 2015 22:24
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angryrobots posted:Which generation? Or rather, what's your price range? :p My budget is going to be around 5k to 6k. I'm really leaning towards a Mazda 6 wagon but I'm keeping my options open and have been also looking at Mercs, BMWs and Saabs as well as the Volvos. If I'm gonna go European, I want to get the best possible wagon I can get for my money, best meaning no nagging issues or big problems like transmissions and whatnot. I understand I'll have to do some maintenance, I just don't want it to break me.
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Jan 31, 2015 23:28
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Obviously what you want is a 245 Turbo. 
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Jan 31, 2015 23:42
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Anyone have a strong opinion on alternators? I've had my battery die a handful of times in the last year or so - the last time was when it was idling outside while I was in the garage. I had moved my car because a friend had come over for some reason, forgot it was on for about 20-30 minutes while we were in the garage and by the time I got back, it was dead. It ended up starting fine a while later when I went back to the car to pop the hood to jump start it. AAA tested the alternator one of the times it failed to start and said it was okay, but that I should think about replacing it since it wasn't putting out as much power as it should. I'm in the middle of the process of replacing my thermostat housing after breaking a bolt replacing the thermostat. Had to take the power steering pump, alternator and AC compressor out in order to get a huge brace/bracket off of the block just to get the lower bolt for the thermostat housing off of my car. I bought a Duralast alternator from Autozone just because my car has been down for about a month now and I wanted to get it going... but now I'm starting to feel like I should do it right and get a shop to rebuild my alternator with quality parts. Anyone have a strong opinion either way? I have no idea what these shops are going to charge as well.. Speaking of which, does anyone know if a brand new circular gasket that goes around the thermostat should fit snugly into the housing? The one I got from autozone has a few mm of space - I assume it's designed to squish down and fill out once I torque down the top of the housing, but I figured I'd ask. Also, does anyone know if 850R/turbo's should have a retaining shim for the injectors? e: On a side note, I used 2-3 pennies and a 1/2" breaker bar successfully as a serpentine belt tensioner tool at a junk yard. I had tried something I read online - using 3 quarters and a vice grip, but the quarters kept bending, and I'd lose it. I suppose I could of just cut the dumb thing off, but good to know if you're in a pinch. goobernoodles fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Feb 1, 2015 |
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Feb 1, 2015 17:33
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My 940's having an annoying problem that I'd like to stop before it turns into a bigger problem. When I accelerate at low speeds, there's a shuddering from somewhere in the drivetrain. It gets louder (and I can feel it more) when the car is loaded down with a zillion pounds of junk in the back. I read somewhere that this might be the transmission mount, so I bought a new one at some point last year, but I haven't been able to find time to install it. Is this a likely solution, or am I looking at a replacement u-joint or driveshaft bushing or something?
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Feb 7, 2015 19:57
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Mine does something similar. Most of it went away away when the driveshaft center support was done. I'm hoping the rest of it stops after I replace the u-joints.
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Feb 7, 2015 22:39
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Seconding the driveshaft center bushing. I'd also recommend taking a look at the bushings in the torque rods that locate the rear end.
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Feb 7, 2015 22:44
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Feb 8, 2015 01:04
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leica posted:So what are the opinions of the V50 wagons? Definitely going to get a wagon just not sure which direction to go, I like the V50 but I'm thinking I may be better off avoiding any European wagons to begin with The first two years are generally regarded as the ones to avoid owing to shifty electronics on those. My 2006 has had some funky glitches as well (but that could be excused since it's at 193k miles).
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Feb 8, 2015 02:50
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mafoose posted:driveshaft center support...replace the u-joints. These will solve almost all rwd Volvo drive train vibrations and shudders and, in my experience, it takes about the same amount of time to do the whole thing at once. Just drop the driveshaft, change all the u-joints and put it in with a new center support bearing and rubber center support. If you've got the time and the part, the transmission mount can be done while you're there, just support it with a jack while you change the mount. It's definitely easier as a 4 jack stand job though. I would pick up the front and the back and have the whole car level and in the air instead of trying to do it with just the front jacked up although I would imagine you could probably work it that way.
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Feb 10, 2015 16:18
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This 1992 240 on Turbobricks is looking awfully tempting for $3500.     sold to one turbobricker in 2013, who's now selling it again: seller 1 posted:GOOD: seller 2 posted:-Rear hatch is not leaking, fixed. atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Feb 11, 2015 |
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Feb 11, 2015 23:06
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leica posted:My budget is going to be around 5k to 6k. Piggybacking this. I will probably be in the market for a ~$5k wagon this year. Puts me in the range for an '02ish-05ish V70/xc70 with 100-150k on it. What are the big maintenance items at this point? From what I understand the 2.5T is reliable, but what about trans and other major systems?
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Feb 12, 2015 14:30
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angryhampster posted:'02ish-05ish V70/xc70 with 100-150k on it. you'll see 
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Feb 12, 2015 22:20
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angryhampster posted:Piggybacking this. I will probably be in the market for a ~$5k wagon this year. Puts me in the range for an '02ish-05ish V70/xc70 with 100-150k on it. What are the big maintenance items at this point? From what I understand the 2.5T is reliable, but what about trans and other major systems? The transmission is probably the single biggest concern I'd have in any Volvo made after 2001. The recommendation from the dealer guy on Swedespeed who sells a lot of them is to drive whatever you're interested in for 30-45 minutes (although I'm not sure how many dealers would be amicable to this) and see if it exhibits any weird shifting problems. If there's any slipping, hesitation, banging into gear, etc. run away. Maintenance records showing transmission fluid changes are also a positive sign, but since Volvo didn't recommend them for a while it might be hard to find one that had them done regularly unless you're buying from an enthusiast. If you find one that you like and it shifts well, change the fluid as soon as you get it home using Mobil 3309 or Toyota T-IV and then do it every 20-30K. Transmission aside, they're generally pretty reliable but they can be hard on suspension parts, some of the electronic modules fail occasionally, the AWD angle gear can leak and eventually lunch itself, the CV ends on the driveshaft will puke their grease eventually, and there might be other minor electronic issues, but outside of wear items that are common to any car there's not that much that goes wrong considering the level of equipment that they have. If you get one from '04 or newer that's been reasonably well kept, take care of the preventive maintenance (trans fluid, timing belt, PCV system, cooling system, etc.) it should be good to go for a while.
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Feb 14, 2015 01:49
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I got pulled over and given a warning for my headlight being askew on my 1997 Volvo 960 Station Wagon. I've been googling around and can't really find a good guide on how to adjust it. Anyone know what I'm looking for?
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Feb 14, 2015 02:44
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Was it involved in a crash or something? If it's so bad to warrant being stopped, I dunno if it's fixable within the angle of adjustment. Here's the adjustment per Volvo. If the front end is screwed up (or you need lateral adjustment which sounds probable), you may find the bubble is worthless. If so, park about 5' in front of a wall with the lights on and try to match the non-askew light.
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Feb 14, 2015 03:26
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I was in a very minor accident, yes. It pushed the headlight down just slightly, when the headlights are both showing on the wall the right is showing just about an inch lower than the left which obviously becomes more pronounced at a longer range. I've seen that, I just can't seem to find the knob. I'll go look again.
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Feb 14, 2015 03:37
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I went out just now and instead of messing with the knob I decided to just tug on the light until the clips from the bumper went beneath it and it appears to be about where it should be now. I guess I should just replace the bumper and the headlight at some point. Gonna have to find a junkyard here in Phoenix that has some intact stuff, I suppose.
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Feb 14, 2015 03:50
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If it was just pushed down, that must be one pedantic cop, or either he suspected you of some other crime and used it as an excuse. I could see if it was aimed into incoming traffic or something. Do they check headlight alignment in states with inspections?
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Feb 14, 2015 05:26
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They didn't check mine. It was a small town cop in the lovely county between Tucson and Phoenix in Arizona, but I'm driving into another one of those small counties this weekend and wanted to get it handled.
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Feb 14, 2015 05:37
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My dad's 960 sedan had (has, technically) 219k miles, headlights so misaligned towards the ground that he habitually used the fog lights to drive, nivomats so dead the car was practically bottomed out in the rear, holes in the heater core (bypassed after a year of wiping the glycol slime off the inside of the window), and an engine that somehow still ran until the timing belt broke despite being pumped full of horrible amounts of stop-leak at various points (despite my advice). So I guess the thing to take away from all this is: drive a sedan in Ruby Red Pearl. Edit: related question: can you drop a twin-turbo S80 I6 into a 960 atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Feb 14, 2015 |
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Feb 14, 2015 06:39
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You can have my station wagon when you pry it from my cold dead hands.
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Feb 14, 2015 07:12
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http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/4884266435.html A few questions, What are the chances the belt is broke and if it is, how does one take a look with minimal tools? Also, is this an interference engine? With it being a non runner, is it an utter whore to change the valves? Or just let a machine shop do it? And lastly... How sturdy are these motors and cars? If I got it running what other potential disasters could I face?
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Feb 20, 2015 07:25
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If the belt broke, it'll be cheaper to buy a new (used) head. I heard the bend almost all the valves when they break. Also I know the transmission is utter poo poo on the 6 cylinder turbo models, no idea how they fair in the non-turbo cars.
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Feb 20, 2015 12:33
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I wasn't scared of the valves, I'm more scared of all the other poo poo blowing up. I may just avoid this one.
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Feb 20, 2015 15:19
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To check the timing belt, all you have to do is loosen the two T27 bolts on the left part of the engine cover and lift it off. S80s can be electrical nightmares and the GM transmission in the 6-cylinder models doesn't have the greatest reputation, but it might be OK in that one since the normally aspirated models don't make a lot of power. That one looks like it has the updated electronic throttle body, so at least that won't give you any headaches. That being said, that particular example looks like a hoarder car and with 260K on the clock almost everything is going to be worn out. Running and driving examples with half the mileage aren't that much more expensive, so unless you have a line on cheap parts I'd pass.
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Feb 20, 2015 15:46
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Thanks! I am curious if the milage is really that high. If its 160 I may consider it, as most cl postings are super accurate. I take it the S80 = 7 series BMW equivalency?
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Feb 20, 2015 15:55
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It's Volvo's flagship but the similarities end there-the S80 is about the size of a contemporary 5-series but whereas the 5 is a driver's car with luxury trappings the S80 is a total luxobarge.
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Feb 20, 2015 18:53
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Thanks for the input, honestly, I know very little about Volvo's but it looked like potential beater/flip but I'll pass. Where would you put the S60 in line with BMW?
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Feb 20, 2015 18:55
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Volvo doesen't really position itself to compete with true luxury brands, its better to compare it with 'premium' brands like Buick and Acura. In terms of size, the S60 is around the same dimensions as the 3 series (though it's a little smaller on the inside). Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Feb 20, 2015 |
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Feb 20, 2015 19:53
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I should have said that size wise, and not in terms of luxury. It seems much bigger than what it is.
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Feb 20, 2015 20:21
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It's 189.8 inches long, so a little smaller than the average midsize car in 2015 (a 2014 Accord is 191.4). Also, being one of the first 'modern' Volvo's, I've heard that the firet gen S80's were a nightmare electronically.
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Feb 20, 2015 21:18
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Crossposting from the What Car to Buy thread. What do you guys have to say about the S60R? I read the throttle body module notes early in the thread, but didn't see anything else specific. I have a chance to pick up a trade in at my shop for next to nothing. It needs some mechanical work (tie rod, exhaust, air filter box broken), but aside from a cracked front lip it seems good. If I assume $1500 all-in to get road worthy, is it a good car to own and maintain for a year or two? Car in question is a 2005 with 166,000km.
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Feb 21, 2015 14:54
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mr.belowaverage posted:Crossposting from the What Car to Buy thread. What do you guys have to say about the S60R? I read the throttle body module notes early in the thread, but didn't see anything else specific. The S60R is new enough that it won't suffer from electronic throttle body problems but the AWD system and the special shocks they use can be troublesome. That being said, for $1500 you can't go wrong assuming you're comfortable putting some money into it over the next couple years to keep it up. I would add a timing belt to your list of repairs, though-it's due to be replaced at 168,000km. Are you able to take it out for a test drive?
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Feb 21, 2015 16:50
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zundfolge posted:Are you able to take it out for a test drive? Yeah, I drove it up and down the road. I didn't try highway due to the tie rod wear; it wanders up front. It seems a little reluctant to put the horses to the wheels unless you mash it, but that could be the intake leak. Otherwise it drove nicely. No warning lights at least. Owner was a friend of the salesguy who took it as trade. He said they used to tool around in it often and it was a great, fast fun car.
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Feb 21, 2015 22:41
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This was a followup to a post someone made referencing that I recommend setting aside $2000 a year for repairs on an S60/V70R:LloydDobler posted:The kicker is that at the end of the year you can't spend the $2000. At the end of year 2 you'll have angle gear failure and also need a PCV and Timing belt, so the entire $4000 will still hit you. There are a lot of $1500 parts that fail with regularity on these cars, 300HP just pushed some of the components a little too hard I think. If you can't do the work yourself, that $1500 S60R will nickel and dime you for $5k in the first year, if you actually want to fix everything and/or flip it. That said, they still have a book value around $10k if everything is in good working order and it's cosmetically decent.
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Feb 23, 2015 23:20
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Well this purchase just changed dramatically. Dealership checked over the car, and it only needs tie rods for safety. The front end damage is minor, but that's where the money would go. I can buy it, do the minimum, and fix the cosmetics week by week and then flip it for profit. Hilariously, I asked the dealer to confirm it was an R model. Like 'hey check the VIN just in case someone added badges, body skirts and rims.. lol' They said that's exactly what it is: a tarted up S60 2.5T AWD. Not an R. This changes my potential retail value by a huge amount it seems, looking at online ads. On the other hand, I drove the car 30km back from the dealership. It's so fast! It's so nice! Now I kind of just want it..
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Mar 1, 2015 14:43
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Dead giveaway; the true R models all have blue gauge faces, like so; Most people doing what some PO did with that car figure it's way too much effort to go in there and change them.
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Mar 2, 2015 00:12
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