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I finished up all my cuts with a circular saw, and just in time too it appears. I purchased a brand new Bostitch 7 1/4" 140 tooth plywood blade and made about 16 2' long cuts in 3/4" plywood, and about 6 cuts in 1/4" plywood, by the time I made the final cut in 1/4" plywood my circular saw was starting to really smell like a bar-b-que. I know that the plywood blade does not have carbide tipped teeth due to the small tooth size, but do I need a new blade already? In related news, I wanted 2 day shipping on my order from tool barn (rip fence for circular saw. . .) but it is still in processing.  Constantly re clamping my straight edge sucked, I tried using a triangle to square up the straight edge and that produced hilarious results each time, I finally just set my $10 caliper to the correct depth and used that to measure each end of the straight edge before and after clamping.
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Feb 18, 2015 04:35
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Nthing the Porter Cable circ saw. It was the first recent power tool I got when I wanted to start woodworking and I love it. Powerful, light, and accurate.
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Feb 18, 2015 04:51
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Crotch Fruit posted:I finished up all my cuts with a circular saw, and just in time too it appears. I purchased a brand new Bostitch 7 1/4" 140 tooth plywood blade and made about 16 2' long cuts in 3/4" plywood, and about 6 cuts in 1/4" plywood, by the time I made the final cut in 1/4" plywood my circular saw was starting to really smell like a bar-b-que. I know that the plywood blade does not have carbide tipped teeth due to the small tooth size, but do I need a new blade already? I made the mistake of buying a plywood blade from Canadian tire when I first got my circular saw. I think it was 200 or 180 teeth. It was absolutely brutal and terrible right from the get go with chipped and frayed edges everywhere. Then I got a 40 or 60 tooth dewalt blade and it cuts everything super smooth and clean.
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Feb 18, 2015 16:35
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The plywood blade was only $5, and I am cutting plywood, and it is making smooth cuts, but I am either using it wrong or something since it smells like burning. The edges don't really look horribly burnt, if it's not the blade, should I be paranoid about sawdust getting in the motor maybe? Is that even possible?
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Feb 18, 2015 18:50
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Is it a sort of sweet burning smell, an ash burning smell, or an ozone burning smell? In my experience, sweet burn smells are typical from even the tiniest amount of scorching of solid hardwoods. A more ashy burning smell can happen from things like plywood, with more non-wood substances in them, or from a deeper, more thorough burn of solid woods, although you may still get some of that tangy sweetness if it's just scorched plywood. Ozone is from things burning electrically (or, more specifically, from sparking, which can happen with some types of motor even under normal circumstances, especially new ones.) If it's the first, I wouldn't freak out about it unless the scorch marks are a problem or you're actually noticing the blade binding. If it's the latter, I'd run the motor and move around to see if you can spot any sparking. If it's the middle one, I dunno, try cutting different materials or using a different blade and edit: 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Feb 18, 2015 |
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Feb 18, 2015 18:57
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It's been like two weeks since miter saws have been discussed in this thread, so... Why is the Ryobi sliding miter saw so much cheaper than other name brand sliders? Is there something horribly wrong with it that would make me regret buying it? I had been looking at getting the Dewalt 12" but being able to crosscut a 1x10 without flipping it would be nice.
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Feb 18, 2015 21:09
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I have no regrets about that Ryobi miter saw, it's about the same price as a similar Kobalt or Craftsman.
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Feb 18, 2015 22:10
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What's the best oil/lubricant to use for my pneumatic nailer? My Campbell Hausfeld Air Compressor's user manual stresses the importance of using it, but doesn't suggest an appropriate brand.
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Feb 19, 2015 03:15
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melon cat posted:What's the best oil/lubricant to use for my pneumatic nailer? My Campbell Hausfeld Air Compressor's user manual stresses the importance of using it, but doesn't suggest an appropriate brand. Air tool oil. It doesn't matter what brand. What matters is using it. Not every googlable/manual answered question needs to be asked here.
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Feb 19, 2015 03:49
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I wrote this for motorcycles over in Cycle Asylum, but it applies to any machine that needs oil:quote:In order of bestness / safeness:
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Feb 19, 2015 10:36
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I bought my first chainsaw and I'm wondering why I didn't buy one sooner. I bought a ryobi rcs4640n, it's really light but has some power. I had my dad show me how to use it, he reckons old engine oil is fine to use as bar oil (the tank holds 350ml and it came with a tiny 76ml bottle), I'm inclined to believe him given his experience of chainsaws.
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Feb 21, 2015 13:38
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Spookydonut posted:he reckons old engine oil is fine to use as bar oil (the tank holds 350ml and it came with a tiny 76ml bottle) Not really. It'll do in a pinch if you run out of the proper stuff in the wilderness and worked well enough for old-timers, but proper modern bar oil has additives to make it stick to the chain and such, and is cheap as hell to buy by the quart -- under $4 at Home Depot. It's one of those situations where the free option is good enough but the real stuff at $4 will make the $20-50 parts last twice as long. The saw just came with a tiny bit so you could test it without making a second trip to buy oil because you forgot to get it when you got the saw. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Feb 21, 2015 |
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Feb 21, 2015 16:32
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Bar oil is thicker and stickier too, more like honey.
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Feb 21, 2015 17:40
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Are you sure it's not a bottle of 2-cycle oil to mix with your fuel? That seems like exactly the right size for a gallon or two of pre-mix.
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Feb 21, 2015 22:23
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I'll be doing a tile backsplash in our kitchen, so I'll need a wet tile saw. It costs between $75-$100 per day to rent at Home Depot. But I'm not sure if I can get the job done in a single day, since we're re-doing an entire kitchen (and I've never done a backsplash, before). Am I better off buying one from Lowe's at $200? Or, would I end up kicking myself for dropping a few hundred on a crappy tool that will only get very occasional use?Motronic posted:Air tool oil. It doesn't matter what brand. What matters is using it. ReelBigLizard posted:I wrote this for motorcycles over in Cycle Asylum, but it applies to any machine that needs oil: melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 01:03
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melon cat posted:I'll be doing a tile backsplash in our kitchen, so I'll need a wet tile saw. It costs between $75-$100 per day to rent at Home Depot. But I'm not sure if I can get the job done in a single day, since we're re-doing an entire kitchen (and I've never done a backsplash, before). Am I better off buying one from Lowe's at $200? Or, would I end up kicking myself for dropping a few hundred on a crappy tool that will only get very occasional use? My area craigslist usually has a few for folks in your position. Buy, use, sell for the same you paid. Just due you homework and maybe get a new blade.
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Feb 22, 2015 02:02
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One Legged Ninja posted:Are you sure it's not a bottle of 2-cycle oil to mix with your fuel? That seems like exactly the right size for a gallon or two of pre-mix. There was one of those too. I have plenty of two stroke oil for running my dad's old stihl line trimmer. Beautiful piece of machinery, he swapped his stihl chainsaw for it many many years ago.
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Feb 22, 2015 04:12
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Weird question, but is there ruler or tape measure manufacturers that are usually presumed to be pretty accurate for millimeters? Or is it a "everything but the cheapest options are fine."
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Feb 22, 2015 05:05
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melon cat posted:
Bostitch Premoil works fine and it's not going to break your bank, make sure the tool(s) you are going to lubricate aren't oil-free in design though.
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Feb 22, 2015 05:30
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everythingWasBees posted:Weird question, but is there ruler or tape measure manufacturers that are usually presumed to be pretty accurate for millimeters? Or is it a "everything but the cheapest options are fine." If you stick to a name brand like Stanley, Lufkin, Stabila, Empire, Starrett, or really any major manufacturer, it should be pretty accurate. Every brand will have a cheap model that may have the hook at the end of the blade loosen, as that will cause inaccuracy, but they all also have high end models. I have a Stabila at work that appears to be the BMW of tape measures, as it has grips on the hook, and a little shock absorber on the case for those times when you let the blade back in too fast. The hooks hit the little shock absorber so there is no chance of it breaking off. It can also stand out like 7 feet without bending.
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Feb 22, 2015 06:58
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everythingWasBees posted:Weird question, but is there ruler or tape measure manufacturers that are usually presumed to be pretty accurate for millimeters? Or is it a "everything but the cheapest options are fine." You may want a caliper rather than a ruler or tape measure.
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Feb 22, 2015 07:43
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A machinist or engineer ruler would also work down to mm. http://www.amazon.com/English-Metric-high-contrast-machinist-markings/dp/B00CD9UC90
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Feb 22, 2015 08:17
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Spookydonut posted:There was one of those too. I have plenty of two stroke oil for running my dad's old stihl line trimmer. Beautiful piece of machinery, he swapped his stihl chainsaw for it many many years ago. Ok, good. I'd rather assume the worst than read a post where you seized up your engine running straight gas. Unless it's in GBS.
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Feb 22, 2015 14:17
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WashinMyGoat posted:Every brand will have a cheap model that may have the hook at the end of the blade loosen, as that will cause inaccuracy, but they all also have high end models. Isn't the loose hook a feature? I always understood it's for measuring from inside/outside edges. If your hook doesn't have any wiggle, you're getting inaccurate measurements in one case or the other (or possibly even both) by as much as the thickness of the hook. Anyhow, most any tape measure should be accurate to, say, the meter. Compare a couple in the store to find one that isn't off by a bunch (that is, filter out any outliers.) To check accuracy within the mm range, just run out a couple few meters, fold the tape in half, and check the ticks against itself. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 15:07
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One Legged Ninja posted:Ok, good. I'd rather assume the worst than read a post where you seized up your engine running straight gas. Unless it's in GBS. Given the number of warnings on the box, chainsaw, filler cap and in the manual it's a safe assumption to make of the average user.
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Feb 22, 2015 15:11
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Bad Munki posted:Isn't the loose hook a feature? I always understood it's for measuring from inside/outside edges. If your hook doesn't have any wiggle, you're getting inaccurate measurements in one case or the other (or possibly even both) by as much as the thickness of the hook. I like that aspect about the cheapo taskforce 12' tape measure I use. I also try to only use that tape measure for measuring and cutting, so it sort of acts like a story stick/tape even if it's inaccurate.
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Feb 22, 2015 16:34
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melon cat posted:I really don't see what was wrong with my original question. You ask a constant stream of low-effort questions that demonstrate you've done absolutely no research ahead of time (and not just in this forum). Questions that are easily answered with a simple google search. This was yet another one of those questions.
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Feb 22, 2015 17:09
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Johnny Bravo posted:Bostitch Premoil works fine and it's not going to break your bank, make sure the tool(s) you are going to lubricate aren't oil-free in design though. Mercury Ballistic posted:My area craigslist usually has a few for folks in your position. Buy, use, sell for the same you paid. Just due you homework and maybe get a new blade. I actually tried doing that, but unfortunately there are very few listings for used tile saws in my area. I think my timing's bad, since in my experience there tend to be more used tool listings on Craiglist in the Spring/Summer. Motronic posted:You ask a constant stream of low-effort questions that demonstrate you've done absolutely no research ahead of time (and not just in this forum). Questions that are easily answered with a simple google search. This was yet another one of those questions. Either way, I'm not sure what's setting you off. Everyone else here has been more than helpful. Maybe you're having a bad day, or something. melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Feb 22, 2015 |
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Feb 22, 2015 18:36
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Bad Munki posted:Isn't the loose hook a feature? I always understood it's for measuring from inside/outside edges. If your hook doesn't have any wiggle, you're getting inaccurate measurements in one case or the other (or possibly even both) by as much as the thickness of the hook. That's a very interesting point that I never considered. I've seen a ton of cheap-o tapes with two rivets on the hook to where it busts off the first time you accidentally retract the tape too fast, and always attributed that issue to the wiggle. http://www.stabila.com/products/tape-measures/us-measures I'll check at work, but I'm pretty sure this tape doesn't have any wiggle in the hook with it's 4 rivets, but it's probably been designed to make up for that. The image looks like it's almost flush under the blade. It's a really nice tape if you aren't the kind of person that loses their tape measure and has to get a new one every week.
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Feb 22, 2015 19:25
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The wiggle is definitely designed for that reason, holding it up against a surface pushes it in the same as hooking it on to a surface would pull it out giving you an accurate measurement. I usually toss my tape out and buy a new one if the hook becomes stiff or the tape itself gets a crack because it's usually worthless at that point. Not to say cheaper tapes wouldn't just snap off like you said either, I've used a Fat Max for years and that isn't an issue.
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Feb 22, 2015 20:40
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oxbrain posted:A machinist or engineer ruler would also work down to mm. This is exactly what I need, thank you for this!
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Feb 22, 2015 20:45
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WashinMyGoat posted:That's a very interesting point that I never considered. I've seen a ton of cheap-o tapes with two rivets on the hook to where it busts off the first time you accidentally retract the tape too fast, and always attributed that issue to the wiggle. If you look at the second pic, where you can see the top and the bottom, it's definitely designed with wiggle. The metal plate on the bottom is just a pressure plate, and isn't connected to the actual hook directly at all, so that piece doesn't need to move. The other side, the actual hook piece, you can see the holes the rivets are through are actually slots. If the one you have isn't wiggling, I'd say it's malfunctioning. 
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Feb 22, 2015 21:51
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All y'all talking about measuring tapes are to blame for my tape developing a tear today 
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Feb 22, 2015 22:35
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I don't remember if I posted about it here or in the woodworking thread, but the Diablo Ultra Finish blade I ordered was a 7 1/4" one not the 10" I thought I ordered.  Have to send it back and I ordered a 10". No wonder it was so cheap. Now I have to wait TWO WHOLE DAYS to get the right one.  oh well. I should work on the taxes anyway.
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Feb 23, 2015 00:45
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Doctor Zero posted:I don't remember if I posted about it here or in the woodworking thread, but the Diablo Ultra Finish blade I ordered was a 7 1/4" one not the 10" Should have kept it. I have one that is 7 1/4, 40 tooth, ultra thin kerf, and it produces the most amazing finished looking cuts. I rarely use it on the TS but it does make nice cuts and so thin it goes through anything like butter.
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Feb 23, 2015 06:16
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Anyone have a good video or online guide or just tips for re-grinding the iron on a plane? I got a spanking deal on a Stanley Bailey No.4 on Saturday and the only thing wrong with it is the cutting edge is so far off square that I have to swing the adjustment lever all the way over to get it cutting even close to square. I've got sharpening stones up to 12000 grit (I restore and re-hone old razors every now and again).
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Feb 23, 2015 12:57
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ReelBigLizard posted:Anyone have a good video or online guide or just tips for re-grinding the iron on a plane? I got a spanking deal on a Stanley Bailey No.4 on Saturday and the only thing wrong with it is the cutting edge is so far off square that I have to swing the adjustment lever all the way over to get it cutting even close to square. I've got sharpening stones up to 12000 grit (I restore and re-hone old razors every now and again). I put a square on the side of the blades of mine, then draw a line with a sharpie. Then on a grinder I square it up, grinding to the line, and setting the bevel angle. Take your time and keep it cool. Then use sharpening stones.
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Feb 23, 2015 16:12
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ReelBigLizard posted:Anyone have a good video or online guide or just tips for re-grinding the iron on a plane? I got a spanking deal on a Stanley Bailey No.4 on Saturday and the only thing wrong with it is the cutting edge is so far off square that I have to swing the adjustment lever all the way over to get it cutting even close to square. I've got sharpening stones up to 12000 grit (I restore and re-hone old razors every now and again). Worst comes to worst you can always get a new blade from lee valley.
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Feb 23, 2015 18:18
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ReelBigLizard posted:Anyone have a good video or online guide or just tips for re-grinding the iron on a plane? I got a spanking deal on a Stanley Bailey No.4 on Saturday and the only thing wrong with it is the cutting edge is so far off square that I have to swing the adjustment lever all the way over to get it cutting even close to square. I've got sharpening stones up to 12000 grit (I restore and re-hone old razors every now and again). I thought my #5 was ground off square for the longest time because I have to keep the lever way to the left. Turns out the slot in the blade isn't centered properly! It was nice to finally figure that out, but man I spent so much time regrinding the bevel on that thing trying to "fix" it.
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Feb 23, 2015 19:00
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Thanks goons.mds2 posted:I put a square on the side of the blades of mine, then draw a line with a sharpie. Then on a grinder I square it up, grinding to the line, and setting the bevel angle. Take your time and keep it cool. Then use sharpening stones. Thanks! That's a good idea. Atticus_1354 posted:Worst comes to worst you can always get a new blade from lee valley. I didn't realise that was an option, also good, in case I screw it up. swampface posted:I thought my #5 was ground off square for the longest time because I have to keep the lever way to the left. Turns out the slot in the blade isn't centered properly! It was nice to finally figure that out, but man I spent so much time regrinding the bevel on that thing trying to "fix" it. The blade is definitely way off, but I didn't consider this, I'll check to see if the hole is in spec as it could be a combination of both.
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Feb 23, 2015 19:41
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