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StormDrain posted:Well I drove down there and looked at it. No leaks or drips on the floor, all of the plastic around the air boxes was completely clean like it had been detailed even. The level of coolant was down a very slight amount from the cold fill line but I have no reference to what it was last week. Yeah, I just looked it up... it claims 6 hours book time. But holy gently caress id rather stick needles in my dick that disassemble the dash.
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Feb 24, 2015 23:55
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So my buddies 2006 Civic EX started overheating at a stop. He took it to a mechanic who said he needed a new thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt. The mechanic then proceeded to tell him it would be $600 for the shop to replace all these parts. I told him to tell the shop to gently caress off, because he could get the parts for about $100, and I could do most of the install. And now we're here. He went and bought all the parts, and tomorrow I'm going to be doing the install. I have no issues with a thermostat replacement, as I've done a few of them. My question is regarding the water pump/serpentine belt. YouTube videos showing the replacement don't make it seem too hard, but as we all know, they can be misleading. So what can I expect regarding the pump/belt? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, usually can figure stuff out with relatively little issue. How hard is this install? Will I need anything special for the belt, being that its hydraulic? How hard would you guys rate the pump/belt install, between 0 and OH HOLY gently caress WHY DID I AGREE TO THIS!?
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Feb 25, 2015 00:25
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Pretty sure you have to replace the timing belt, not (specifically) the serpentine belt. In which case, hahahahaha why did you agree to that
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Feb 25, 2015 02:15
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I just posted this in the Evo/DSM thread ( http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3380267&pagenumber=31#post441997244 ) but that thread is a ghost town, hope it's not a problem if I ask here too for some exposure: AI I need your help. I posted about this a while ago but I'm still trying to diagnose a deceleration noise with my Evo 9, 6 speed. Videos this time. Happens in any gear when I take my foot off of the gas in gear and let the engine slow the car. Ive had the car for 9,000 miles and it has always had this problem. I just had the transmission rebuilt because a shaft bearing had blown - new synchros, bearings, springs, etc. The gears all looked great. I thought that surely the bearing had one foot in the grave and was causing the noise and that a rebuild would resolve it. Well, 100 miles with the rebuilt trans and the noise has come back and I'm losing my mind. Everything I've read about this issue on evolutionM suggests that it's either a shaft bearing (this fast after a rebuild?) my ACT street clutch (got a new one during the rebuild) that's transmitting more vibration to the trans and through The Magic Of Harmonics this noise is a consequence. I haven't done any hard pulls or hard driving since the rebuild so I feel like a second immediately failing bearing is pretty unlikely. I've put the car on a lift with a stethoscope in the past and the source of the noise is almost definitely the transmission, don't think It's from the transfer case. Noise is strongest on the driver side while driving. It shifts great and no other problems aside from this. These videos don't really don't really make it clear just how loud this poo poo is Third gear: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeSBganMKFA Third gear, windows rolled up: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrjd3-RWjIQ Fifth gear, higher pitch noise: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAesYMTH9Eg Any thoughts? Anyone have an aftermarket clutch introduce noises like this? Any advice would be appreciated
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Feb 25, 2015 02:21
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EZipperelli posted:So my buddies 2006 Civic EX started overheating at a stop. He took it to a mechanic who said he needed a new thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt. The mechanic then proceeded to tell him it would be $600 for the shop to replace all these parts. I told him to tell the shop to gently caress off, because he could get the parts for about $100, and I could do most of the install. If its overheating at a stop its probably the electric fan and not all of that other stuff anyway.
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Feb 25, 2015 02:22
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Krakkles posted:Pretty sure you have to replace the timing belt, not (specifically) the serpentine belt. Fart Pipe posted:If its overheating at a stop its probably the electric fan and not all of that other stuff anyway. Well, according to the email from his mechanic, he needs a new serpentine belt, not a timing belt. Also, I'm just going off what the shop said, I haven't even LOOKED under the hood of the car yet.
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Feb 25, 2015 02:26
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EZipperelli posted:Well, according to the email from his mechanic, he needs a new serpentine belt, not a timing belt. Also, I'm just going off what the shop said, I haven't even LOOKED under the hood of the car yet. Yea Id check the fan first. If its not overheating when its moving it should mean everything else like the water pump and stuff is still working. Let it sit there and see if the fan comes on, just make sure the a/c button is off.
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Feb 25, 2015 02:30
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Cage posted:99 ford explorer 4.0 sohc Put a ziptie around a shock or something else convenient and have the tail pointing at the rim (not the tyre). Trim the cable tie so that it only clears the rim by a couple of millimetres, then spin the wheel and see if it touches it anywhere. Usually if you can feel the effects of a damaged wheel while driving, you can see it visually pretty easily.
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Feb 25, 2015 02:31
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OK: I'm afraid that this is awakening the stupid in me. 1970 Lincoln Continental, about 1.5 hours from me. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Con...=US_Cars_Trucks The story is that this was nearly mint, and sold to an overseas buyer, but fell off of the truck or something during loading. It's got a lot of cosmetic damage and was apparently totalled by the insurance co of the buyer. Car is titled in OH. According to the current seller (who, based on where the car is currently sitting, was probably involved in the shipping pipeline for this car), the insurer that totalled it didn't get a salvage title, but just had the OH title marked, "for parts only." Car comes with the OH title, so marked. Basically, the title is worthless. This reeks to me, because any US insurer would insist on getting the title when they pay out on a constructive total loss, then flip it to a salvage title. If this thing had a salvage title, I would have bought it already, since it appears completely driveable & capable of passing NJ inspection once I get buttreamed through the road title conversion process. What I do not know is: if this was in fact an overseas buyer, who had insurance from another country, they may not have the same title-flipping procedure. Can anyone confirm if that is so? In any event, I doubt I'd be able to get a NJ salvage title. There's the ghost of a chance of contacting the original owner in OH & seeing if he'll request a replacement title...but even if he were willing (and that it's not some estate sale & the guy is dead), he theoretically could hold me hostage for the clean title. Any ideas on how to get this thing legal? I don't mind driving it around in it's current condition...
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Feb 25, 2015 03:54
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There are a number of states that require so little paperwork that if you find the previous registration in it, you could probably track the owner down, get him to sign a bill of sale, and go register it in those states and get a clean title or at least some sort of title. I know multiple people who have done this even with a vehicle that was salvage titled previously. Just so no one jumps on me over title laundering... here is one of them today. The rest are about the same story*. It's quite clear to anyone looking at them that they are NOT original, clean, no-damage vehicles. It's just kinda hard to get something like that through a salvage inspection in Massachusetts, ya know?  * totaled by some dumb accident, serious unibody damage, reborn as bad rear end offroad rigs with fully plated chassis, cages, custom suspension, just need to be marginally road legal to make it from trailhead to trailhead in backwoods towns on long trips.
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Feb 25, 2015 04:11
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EZipperelli posted:So my buddies 2006 Civic EX started overheating at a stop. He took it to a mechanic who said he needed a new thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt. The mechanic then proceeded to tell him it would be $600 for the shop to replace all these parts. I told him to tell the shop to gently caress off, because he could get the parts for about $100, and I could do most of the install. Ive got an 8th gen civic. First thing to check is that there was a defective engine block issue in the early 8th gen civic, and it caused coolant loss and overheating. I doubt thats the case if a mechanic already checked it, but your friend could be in for a free engine if its still under the extended warranty that Honda made for the issue. Get a long rear end box wrench of the appropriate size, and maybe a pipe to use as an extension. Breaker bar will not fit, not enough width. Its tight to the left side of the engine bay. Hydraulic tensioner just requires you to SLOWLY push on it, and you will feel lit glide back as you apply more pressure. Just dont hamfuck it super hard out of the gate, lean on it an it will release but it takes a couple of seconds and you can damage it if you really push too hard too fast. Havent done a water pump on the car, but serp belt with 2 people should take about 15 minutes. Make sure you dont get confused by the routing diagram, I believe there was a routing change at some point early on in production. Do a little research. I bet the entire service manual might help  http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/manual2.html Krakkles posted:Pretty sure you have to replace the timing belt, not (specifically) the serpentine belt. Car has a timing chain.
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Feb 25, 2015 04:33
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Alright guys I have a friend that wrecked her 2000 I think Honda CRV. She's a tiny lady at about 5' 9". We are trying to find her a good reliable SUV similar in size(or kinda close) as the CRV. Can you guys give some recommendations? I've searched Kia Sportages and Saturn Vues and recommended them to her but I'd like some more varied opinions.
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Feb 25, 2015 04:43
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Toyota Rav4?
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Feb 25, 2015 04:49
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5' 9" is "tiny"? 5' 5" is average for an American woman. Oh, um, Subaru Forester?
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Feb 25, 2015 05:07
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Alright guys I have a friend that wrecked her 2000 I think Honda CRV. She's a tiny lady at about 5' 9". We are trying to find her a good reliable SUV similar in size(or kinda close) as the CRV. Can you guys give some recommendations? I've searched Kia Sportages and Saturn Vues and recommended them to her but I'd like some more varied opinions. If she goes with a Vue, make drat sure to avoid the CVT transmission. It was only in 02-03 models, and only in the 4 cylinder. V6 models from 02-03 used a GM 3.0 V6 and an Aisin 5 speed automatic (the transmission is pretty bulletproof, I know nothing about that particular engine though); 04+ first gen V6 models had a Honda 3.5 drivetrain in them. The engine is bulletproof, the Honda transmission for 04 wasn't so great for reliability.. First gens are available with a manual transmission; base model is the same 2.2L Ecotec used in most of GM's smaller car lineup. The 2.2 is dog slow with an automatic in something that big, livable with a manual. The second gen comes with a 2.4 in the base model, which is a bit more powerful (169 hp/161 ft lbs vs 143 hp/152 ft lbs).
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Feb 25, 2015 05:12
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Awesome. Thanks. Will check on this stuff tomorrow when I start messing with his engine.
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Feb 25, 2015 05:32
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EZipperelli posted:Awesome. Thanks. Will check on this stuff tomorrow when I start messing with his engine. You can probably skip the water pump as long as the coolant has been maintained properly, unless it's either weeping or doesn't turn by hand easily. As others have mentioned, that engine had a casting flaw from 06 to early 09 model years that would cause the engine block itself to crack. If you see any signs of coolant on the engine itself, it may have a crack. Sometimes it happens suddenly and spectacularly (which happened to a friend of mine), usually it shows up as a small leak; in any event, if someone doesn't pay much attention to their car, the first sign is overheating when it runs low on coolant. Honda has an extended warranty to cover that exact issue - 10 years/unlimited mileage (originally 8 years) from the original date of sale. If you see any coolant on the engine itself (aside from directly under the water pump), do not pass go, take it to the dealer. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 05:45
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Alright guys I have a friend that wrecked her 2000 I think Honda CRV. She's a tiny lady at about 5' 9". We are trying to find her a good reliable SUV similar in size(or kinda close) as the CRV. Can you guys give some recommendations? I've searched Kia Sportages and Saturn Vues and recommended them to her but I'd like some more varied opinions. I can speak to the current sportage being extremely reliable. I don't know if your market gets the 2.0 but the 2.4 is grunty, solid and reasonably fuel efficient. There was a recall concerning the trans cooler leaking into the radiator but this may or may not have affected your market and certainly won't matter if she's buying new. It also has a 6 speed auto which puts it above most competitor vehicles AFAIK; the difference is noticeable and it's a trouble-free unit in general.
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Feb 25, 2015 06:55
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 ). All other trims get the 3.3 standard in the US. Looks like even the LX can be had with AWD too, and the standard equipment list is pretty drat nice. Too bad the only way to get factory HIDs is to go for the top of the line model (which starts at $11,000 more than the base model).That's for the 2015 model year anyway, according to Kia's US website. No idea on older ones, though I'm assuming since she was driving a 15 year old CR-V, she probably won't get the kind of insurance payout that will allow her to buy a brand new SUV. gently caress, was looking at the Sorento. Scratch that. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 07:05
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Good christ I had no idea you could get a sportage with the Lambda. That engine is a devastating weapon in a sedona, let alone something half the size.
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Feb 25, 2015 07:07
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Crap. I was looking at the Sorento. The Sportage has the 2.4 in LX and EX trims, turbo 2.0 in the SX.
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Feb 25, 2015 07:13
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Looking for recommendations for a quality electronic tire pressure gauge that: --Is accurate and repeatable --Is relatively durable --Doesn't take stupid expensive watch batteries Hopefully this is right thread for a question like this. I have some analog gauges but I'd like something more accurate that I can trust.
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Feb 25, 2015 08:04
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^^^^ Maybe post your question on the Tools thread?Slavvy posted:Put a ziptie around a shock or something else convenient and have the tail pointing at the rim (not the tyre). Trim the cable tie so that it only clears the rim by a couple of millimetres, then spin the wheel and see if it touches it anywhere. I assume you meant to quote me, about the wheel out-of-round question? At any rate, I'm going to take the advice  , thanks!
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Feb 25, 2015 08:52
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Jesus christ, I fully did. Good catch.
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Feb 25, 2015 09:31
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Cool, thanks again! What's an acceptable out-of-round? Is there even one?
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Feb 25, 2015 10:13
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I'm wanting to get a Maxda 3 (on PCP 0% finance now deposit) 22,000 Any tips on negotiating? That's a pretty great offer already, they might not have room to move? I would like two options (safety package 750 and leather seats 1000) maybe use that somehow? In UK never done this before! SoulChicken fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Feb 25, 2015 |
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Feb 25, 2015 14:59
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I've got a pretty nasty ticking sound coming from my Jeep's 4.0 (190,000 miles). The harshness of it makes me think that the exhaust leak has suddenly become worse, typically metal on metal is more clunky. I'm open to suggestions and will be taking the valve cover off after work (fortunately I mostly telecommute). I kinda need to reseal the oil pan eventually, so this might be a good excuse to drop it and look for chunks. This happened last night as I was getting onto the highway, lovely short onramp requires full throttle, shifted from third to fourth gear and this noise starts immediately. I didn't hit the rev limiter, if you're wondering. Louder with load, inconsistent at idle. No noticeable power loss or rough idle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yPOV47xMTs Any ideas?
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Feb 25, 2015 16:01
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Trisk posted:Looking for recommendations for a quality electronic tire pressure gauge that: I wouldn't just assume digital = accurate. Those air pumps at the gas station where you set the PSI and go aren't very accurate, but they're digital. I have a dial indicator gage from Joe's Racing that's accurate and a reasonable price on Amazon. It's also glow-in-the-dark, has an air release button, and has a swivel fitting.
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Feb 25, 2015 16:11
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Remember that Lincoln a few posts up? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Con...=US_Cars_Trucks If it's too good to be true...(mine in italics) As an insurance co constructive total loss, this vehicle should have a salvage title...if you do not have it, are you able to put the buyer in touch with the insurer who totalled it, in order to get the salvage paperwork? This would make it far easier (though by no means easy) to get the title restored to a standard road-use title here in NJ. I have an original title available but the prior owner wrote buyer's name in the back and as per Insurance Co. request, it now says "Parts Car" or "Parts Only". That title in not transferrable at this point. All you have to do is file for a new title with one of the companies that handle such cases. Just in case and only if you are serious I will provide you with someone who will help. Thanks...I am interested in this vehicle if as long as there is a NJ Salvage title. The insurer that totalled the vehicle would request one as a matter of procedure (I am an insurance adjuster) so I can convert the title back to road use. I live in Gloucester County. Where was it titled, if not NJ? There is an Ohio title, clear but with the prior buyer's name on it and signed over. The Insurance company which paid for the damages requested to mark the title parts only... So this is what we have. You'd have to file for a new title through one of the companies that handle lost titles or similar issues. I have a contact just in case. Since you hold what is in essence a damaged title - if the title in fact is still a road title but marked up - that means it still shows in the Ohio DMV as owned by the guy whose name is on the title. That being the case, what legal document can you furnish in the way of a receipt for money paid for this car? How could I legally transact & take possession without involving the person whose name is on the title? Thanks The only thing I can provide you with is a Bill of Sale. A bill of sale is acceptable, so long as you can document that you are the legal owner of the car. What documentation can you furnish? Or are you a proxy for the legal owner? I can provide you with a bill of sale. If you need it notarized I can handle that also. The problem with a bill of sale, notarized or not, is that you, as the seller, have to prove that you are the legal owner of the vehicle before any transaction can occur. Otherwise, I am handing you money for a piece of paper, not a vehicle, and even if I take possession physically, in the absence of some other legal instrument showing that you have unencumbered rights as the owner, it still belongs to the person named on the title in the eyes of Ohio law. Based on what I know so far, there is nothing stopping the person whose name appears on the title from asserting ownership of the vehicle. If you are willing to provide the name, address, title number and VIN, I will contact the title-holder to determine if he is willing to obtain a replacement title (at my expense) and sign that title over once your involvement is established and you & I transact our business. I am somewhat surprised that you have not already done this, but I am willing if you are. Regards, It'll be interesting to see if he responds.
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Feb 25, 2015 16:50
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Looks about right. Basically the title he's holding is worthless as you know and the last owner of record needs to file for a new one and sell it to you instead. Anyone claiming that just the bill of sale and the marked up title are good enough is either lying through their teeth, incredibly stupid and/or gullible, or has never actually gone to the DMV. I see retards and jerks trying to pull this poo poo on facebook auto groups all the time, and other even dumber retards and jerks falling for it or assuming it will work because they want it to.
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Feb 25, 2015 17:49
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bolind posted:Cool, thanks again! What's an acceptable out-of-round? Is there even one? Not really but, again, if you can feel it in the car you'll bloody well know when you spin the wheel, trust me.
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Feb 25, 2015 19:02
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Yeah, I just looked it up... it claims 6 hours book time. But holy gently caress id rather stick needles in my dick that disassemble the dash. I was quoted 7 hours. It's expensive, but that's what my savings account is for. I'm not dealing with the dash, I'm not dealing with the extra coolant, I'm not going to learn how an Escape is built. None of it sounded fun. Easily justified since the vehicle presumably has a long life left, and is otherwise in good shape and worth money, and I have an interest free loan that's above water.
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Feb 25, 2015 20:17
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(another) 87 Mazda B2000 question: I want to swap out my shocks since god knows how old they are, probably starting with the front pair. Looking at this video it seems straight forward but do I need to worry about the control arm wanting to move downward as the old shock is removed like when replacing stabilizer bar end links? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUrTvupmDP0 Since I have to do the end links anyways what do you use to keep the control arm from pushing downward, one those coil spring compressors?
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Feb 25, 2015 20:33
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No. The arm is already lowered as far as it can go, your shock isn't what stops it drooping further. If I'm wrong it is not remotely a big deal, just lift it with your jack.
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Feb 25, 2015 22:23
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When you say the control arm moving down "like when doing end links", are you jacking up one side at a time? Because that's not such an issue for the damper, but makes your life artificially difficult for stuff relating to the anti-roll bar, as the two sides will fight each other to try and level the suspension. You can much about with trying to restrain the suspension movement somehow, but it's easier to do as Slavvy said and use the jack if you need to, or you may even find it unnecessary if you have both wheels off the ground.
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Feb 25, 2015 22:34
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How long can tires last in terms of time? I bought a 97 LeSabre recently that hadn't been driven much in the last several years, and based on what the previous owner told me, I think these tires are at least six years old.
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Feb 25, 2015 22:59
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Farmer Crack-rear end posted:How long can tires last in terms of time? I bought a 97 LeSabre recently that hadn't been driven much in the last several years, and based on what the previous owner told me, I think these tires are at least six years old. I think 5 years is typically the rule of thumb. I've driven on some 7 year old winters before in the summertime and it wasn't the worst thing in the world. There would probably be a noticeable change in grip if you went to new tires though.
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Feb 25, 2015 23:06
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Farmer Crack-rear end posted:How long can tires last in terms of time? I bought a 97 LeSabre recently that hadn't been driven much in the last several years, and based on what the previous owner told me, I think these tires are at least six years old. See if it has a DOT date code. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11
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Feb 25, 2015 23:06
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This is a really stupid question, but if I'm wrong I'd like to know ASAP. I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic and this morning I closed my car door on the front driver's side seat belt buckle and the plastic cover broke and came off. Pics. Will this impact the safety of the seat belt? (I'm guessing no.) Is there any way to replace the buckle without replacing the whole seat belt assembly? (Based on a quick part search also guessing no). If no, what kind of labor am I looking at to get that fixed? (I'm guessing 2-3 hours assuming the seat needs to be removed.) Would this be covered under the warranty? (Probably not.) Thanks!
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Feb 26, 2015 01:55
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InitialDave posted:When you say the control arm moving down "like when doing end links", are you jacking up one side at a time? Because that's not such an issue for the damper, but makes your life artificially difficult for stuff relating to the anti-roll bar, as the two sides will fight each other to try and level the suspension. You can much about with trying to restrain the suspension movement somehow, but it's easier to do as Slavvy said and use the jack if you need to, or you may even find it unnecessary if you have both wheels off the ground. Slavvy posted:No. The arm is already lowered as far as it can go, your shock isn't what stops it drooping further. If I'm wrong it is not remotely a big deal, just lift it with your jack.
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Feb 26, 2015 01:57
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