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Dely Apple
Apr 22, 2006

Sing me Spanish Techno


Chris! posted:

They're changing the recommended route up Everest to avoid the left side of the Khumbu icefall, which is relatively easy to climb but where the majority of avalanches happen, to be replaced by a more central route up the icefall, which will probably kill people in different ways. I think a more technical but safer route is a good thing, though maybe less people will summit / more people will die of exhaustion.

It seems absurd that they had been using what is often described as a horrifying deathtrap for the sake of "inexperienced climbers" when I remember in Into Thin Air that he found the icefall to be the most terrifying part of the ascent.

But I guess when every investment banker wants to be short-roped up the "easier" trail...

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T.S. Smelliot
Apr 23, 2010

by FactsAreUseless
Everest: you will kill yourself on this mountain. K-2: this mountain will kill you.

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...
gently caress climbing everest

be like Didier Delsalle, the frenchman who landed on the summit in helicopter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=results

I want his memoirs to be called "Nothing to Prove: Yeah I Could Have Done It But Who Gives a gently caress"

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011

Cojawfee posted:

There's no way that was anything other than a suicide.

Experienced, but overconfident, outdoors types get killed by unexpected awful weather with considerable frequency.

etalian
Mar 20, 2006

Dely Apple posted:

It seems absurd that they had been using what is often described as a horrifying deathtrap for the sake of "inexperienced climbers" when I remember in Into Thin Air that he found the icefall to be the most terrifying part of the ascent.

But I guess when every investment banker wants to be short-roped up the "easier" trail...

It's also important to note that a good number of people died in the Icefall portion of the climb without even making it the next base camp.

I Greyhound
Apr 22, 2008

MusicKrew Dawn Patrol
HBO's Real Sports is doing an episode on last year's climbing season. Airs Tuesday. Synopsis:

quote:

Death on Everest
Producer: Jordan Kronick

A devastating avalanche killed 13 Sherpa workers on Mount Everest last year, marking the worst tragedy in the mountain's history. With expeditions to the top of Everest more popular today than ever before, and no government oversight of the western companies that promise a luxurious adventure on the world's highest summit, some observers felt such a disaster was all but inevitable.

Lauded for their climbing skills, the Sherpas are a Nepalese ethnic group who fulfill climbers' needs, literally carrying a load that includes ropes, ladders, oxygen, food and even heated tents. The Sherpas are biologically acclimatized to the altitude like no other people in the world, but are only compensated around $5,000 per climbing season.

As western companies compete to offer more comforts to their clients, many of them inexperienced amateurs, the demands on the Sherpas have put them at increased risk. REAL SPORTS correspondent David Scott travels to the Himalayas to investigate whether the Sherpa deaths were the result of a natural disaster or the unavoidable consequence of an unregulated race to cater to wealthy western climbers.

Meatwave
Feb 21, 2014

Truest Detective - Work Crew Division.
:dong::yayclod:

I Greyhound posted:

HBO's Real Sports is doing an episode on last year's climbing season. Airs Tuesday. Synopsis:

I wonder if other episodes of Real Sports will feel a bit sheepish after a serious story about climber's servants dying on a mountain. I hope the next one is about League of Legends.

Last Chance
Dec 31, 2004

REAL SPORTS
lmao

Last Chance
Dec 31, 2004

Sports Are Real

Alan Smithee
Jan 4, 2005


A man becomes preeminent, he's expected to have enthusiasms.

Enthusiasms, enthusiasms...
Esports is real sports

Webcormac McCarthy
Nov 26, 2007
Just finished watching The Summit on the 2008 K2 disaster. Highly recommended if you want to watch what happens to crazy peoplemountaineers who want to go to the DEATH ZONE on the mountain which has killed 1 in 4. Some amazingly fast deaths, one slip/mistake/icefall :darksouls: Summit fever, "Yes let's keep going up we'll reach the summit at sunset and get a nice picture of K2's shadow into China! Surely we can descend after dark it's perfect weather!" And if you stop to help someone you are just going to add to the tally.

Paramemetic
Sep 29, 2003

Area 51. You heard of it, right?





Fallen Rib
That said that Sherpa's interview on there is awesome and really demonstrates the view of a lot of climbing Sherpas in my understanding. "Westerners are crazy, we just love to climb, who cares about summiting?"

raditts
Feb 21, 2001

The Kwanzaa Bot is here to protect me.


Sydnesider posted:

Just finished watching The Summit on the 2008 K2 disaster. Highly recommended if you want to watch what happens to crazy peoplemountaineers who want to go to the DEATH ZONE on the mountain which has killed 1 in 4. Some amazingly fast deaths, one slip/mistake/icefall :darksouls: Summit fever, "Yes let's keep going up we'll reach the summit at sunset and get a nice picture of K2's shadow into China! Surely we can descend after dark it's perfect weather!" And if you stop to help someone you are just going to add to the tally.

Sweet, it's on Netflix. Between this and Touching the Void I guess will make this Everest Death Movie day.

Alan Smithee posted:

Esports is real sports

RealSportsTM

raditts fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Feb 24, 2015

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Sydnesider posted:

Just finished watching The Summit on the 2008 K2 disaster. Highly recommended if you want to watch what happens to crazy peoplemountaineers who want to go to the DEATH ZONE on the mountain which has killed 1 in 4. Some amazingly fast deaths, one slip/mistake/icefall :darksouls: Summit fever, "Yes let's keep going up we'll reach the summit at sunset and get a nice picture of K2's shadow into China! Surely we can descend after dark it's perfect weather!" And if you stop to help someone you are just going to add to the tally.

The Summit is a pro film. No one told me before watching, but they used actual mountain climbing footage mixed with recovered footage from the disaster to seamlessly tell the story, which was a pleasant surprise.

It's a lot more "show and tell" with the coverage, looking like a proper motion picture focused on the climb and struggles of each survivor, instead of just hearing six people talking over shaky 'HI FROM BASECAMP' footage, with maybe two minutes of actual climbing footage.

Unrelated but someone posted this in a different thread.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maurice_Wilson

Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Feb 26, 2015

Paramemetic
Sep 29, 2003

Area 51. You heard of it, right?





Fallen Rib
One of the big benefits of gopros is that while 99% of gopro footage will become either forgotten home videos of climbs or a few minutes of YouTube clickbait, there's the off chance that some terrible disaster will befall people nearby or even the cameraman and it might get watched by millions and even be somewhat useful.

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





i plan on live streaming my mountain biking so friends can watch me die in real time. climbers should do the same

HEY VAPER
May 15, 2014

by XyloJW

Paramemetic posted:

That said that Sherpa's interview on there is awesome and really demonstrates the view of a lot of climbing Sherpas in my understanding. "Westerners are crazy, we just love to climb, who cares about summiting?"

wow surprise surprise summiting Everest is all about mid life crisis bragging rights and not a genuine interest in mountaineering!

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

it's fine and ok for people to be interested in summiting vs. just climbing

it's also fine for sherpas to have a different view

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius

GENDERWEIRD GREEDO posted:

it's fine and ok for people to be interested in summiting vs. just climbing

it's also fine for sherpas to have a different view

The ones who just want to summit deserve death.

Paramemetic
Sep 29, 2003

Area 51. You heard of it, right?





Fallen Rib
Also that movie is about K2 which is more about mountaineering or transforming midlife crises into end-of-life crises.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
My only regret is that Everest expeditions aren't just a little bit cheaper so the up-and-coming douchebags don't have to wait to kill themselves (before waiting on the Hillary Step).

Literally Kermit
Mar 4, 2012
t
Oh gosh, Everest thread, I missed you. I really did! :swoon:

Gyro Zeppeli
Jul 19, 2012

sure hope no-one throws me off a bridge

Angry Birds Suicide posted:

Everest: you will kill yourself on this mountain. K-2: this mountain will kill you.

I can get on board with the old-school "mountains are gods", cause K2 clearly requires blood sacrifice.

Butt Wizard
Nov 3, 2005

It was a pornography store. I was buying pornography.

Hijo Del Helmsley posted:

I can get on board with the old-school "mountains are gods", cause K2 clearly requires blood sacrifice.

One day one of these mountain gods is going to desire more souls than can fit on the slopes and it's going to come to a city and start killing off middle-management coffee-book-photo-album charity fundraising types who do things solely to raise awareness of the fact they're raising awareness who end up paying squillions to try and climb these peaks. We have to keep sending as many morons as possible to appease them.

The poo poo thing is that K2 kills off actual mountaineers too but apparently there's so shortage of rear end in a top hat mountaineers either.

Madcosby
Mar 4, 2003

by FactsAreUseless
Sorry, I just read through this thread and this is prob something that's been answered before but:

If you're using oxygen near the top of everest, isn't that going to undo the lack of oxygen? Aside from the hike, shouldn't you be able to move at a proper speed? Or is the oxygen coming from the tank only a supplement of breathable air, like 25% of the oxygen you need?

Kurtofan
Feb 16, 2011

hon hon hon
Any people with terminal diseases try to climb Mt Everest?

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

Madcosby posted:


If you're using oxygen near the top of everest, isn't that going to undo the lack of oxygen? Aside from the hike, shouldn't you be able to move at a proper speed? Or is the oxygen coming from the tank only a supplement of breathable air, like 25% of the oxygen you need?

Supplemental.

It's not enough to bring you to a normal-ish levels. It's just there to keep you alive a little bit longer. The amount of oxygen fed can be controlled by the valve connecting to the respirator.

CRUSTY MINGE fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 27, 2015

Teketeketeketeke
Mar 11, 2007


Kurtofan posted:

Any people with terminal diseases try to climb Mt Everest?

Besides fatal idiocy?

But seriously, pretty sure I remember hearing about some cancer survivors climbing Everest...
e: Sean Swarmer did it recently...

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

LITERALLY SHAKING posted:

Supplemental.

It's not enough to bring you to a normal-ish levels. It's just there to keep you alive a little bit longer. The amount of oxygen fed can be controlled by the valve connecting to the respirator.

From what I know about the gear, too, if you set your flow too high, you'll feel pretty good, but have to use more tanks, which are heavy as gently caress, so it's a zero-sum game between hypoxia and exhaustion.

KERNOD WEL
Oct 10, 2012
I know a blind guy did it, and a woman with a heart transplant, which sounds even crazier to me.

edit: nm it was the matterhorn

JFairfax
Oct 23, 2008

by FactsAreUseless
Here is a good BBC documentary about the North Face of the Eiger if you are able to use player: http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00tlwj3/the-eiger-wall-of-death

Paramemetic
Sep 29, 2003

Area 51. You heard of it, right?





Fallen Rib
Yeah, the O2 respirators are usually tuned to a flow of 2-3 liters per minute during heavy exertion, 1/2-1 during rest, but you ideally want to keep it as low as possible at all times. The supplemental O2 brings your O2 saturation up, but isn't gonna bring it to 99-100% where you want it to be. I'm not sure what the curve is on O2 desat in lower atmos, that would be interesting research to see.

But yes, those bottles are fuckin' heavy, which is why unfortunately they get left all over the place up there. Most are about half the size of normal medical O2 cylinders, and will run for about 6.5 hours at a 2LPM flow rate. One company does basically medical D cylinders that weigh 16 lbs for 1800 liters of O2, approx. 10 hours of O2, but you'd be more or less limited to one of those bottles.

Basically it's a balancing act and one way to gently caress it up severely is to suck down O2 trying to maintain a feeling like you're fully oxygenated.

Bro Nerd Alpha
Aug 27, 2012

going on pussy patrol
Why is this thread not as active as the past two ? I realize the first one I saw was filled with me watching the recommended shows and reading links,etc.

This one just feels slow or is it just me ? Do I have some morbid fascination with reading about rich yuppies dying trying to be the first to bring awareness to their cause ?

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Bro Nerd Alpha posted:

Why is this thread not as active as the past two ? I realize the first one I saw was filled with me watching the recommended shows and reading links,etc.

This one just feels slow or is it just me ? Do I have some morbid fascination with reading about rich yuppies dying trying to be the first to bring awareness to their cause ?

It's still a month or two away before expeditions start crowing about their migration.

Bro Nerd Alpha
Aug 27, 2012

going on pussy patrol
Gotcha. I follow this with the most casual of enthusiasm, I couldn't tell you when the season starts but know enough about the death zone.

Fatkraken
Jun 23, 2005

Fun-time is over.

Bro Nerd Alpha posted:

Gotcha. I follow this with the most casual of enthusiasm, I couldn't tell you when the season starts but know enough about the death zone.

I think most regular expeditions try to summit before the end of May and the Monsoon, and spend maybe 10-12 weeks on the mountain. So it's about time for teams to start arriving

There's some big furore going on with permits for the Nepal side at the moment, since last years season basically didn't happen due to the disaster that killed the big group of Sherpas. The climbers still don't know if they'll be allowed to use the old permits and the government is dragging it's feet, so a lot of expeditions are in limbo

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-31587654

Bro Nerd Alpha
Aug 27, 2012

going on pussy patrol

Fatkraken posted:

I think most regular expeditions try to summit before the end of May and the Monsoon, and spend maybe 10-12 weeks on the mountain. So it's about time for teams to start arriving

There's some big furore going on with permits for the Nepal side at the moment, since last years season basically didn't happen due to the disaster that killed the big group of Sherpas. The climbers still don't know if they'll be allowed to use the old permits and the government is dragging it's feet, so a lot of expeditions are in limbo

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-31587654

Thanks for that. I hope the season kicks off without a hitch, perhaps some vegan restaurant take out app creator can die early in the ice flow to appease the Mt.Gods. Any notably under qualified people making noise about attempting this year ?

Nooner
Mar 26, 2011

AN A+ OPSTER (:
News is saying 2 of the taliban dudes who killed all those climbers at Nanga Parbat in 2013 just escaped from jail. How long does it take to get from Pakistan to Nepal?

Madcosby
Mar 4, 2003

by FactsAreUseless
cool, thanks for the answers. I assumed the O2 supply was supplemental; I know from the very limited diving experience that I've done that I burned through an O2 tank so fast (mostly from nervous breathing), and by controlling your breathing you can get a lot more out of it, which seems like a requirement when carrying tanks up mountains

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illectro
Mar 29, 2010

:jeb: ROCKET SCIENCE :jeb:

Hullo, I'm Scoot Moonbucks.
Please stop being surprised by this.

Paramemetic posted:

One of the big benefits of gopros is that while 99% of gopro footage will become either forgotten home videos of climbs or a few minutes of YouTube clickbait, there's the off chance that some terrible disaster will befall people nearby or even the cameraman and it might get watched by millions and even be somewhat useful.

When I was skiing I talked with a lot of teenagers who wore helmets simply so they could attach a Go-Pro to it, one wonders whether the net effect of all those extra helmets will be to save lives, or to cause more injuries from kids showing off on camera.

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