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Was it a full rattle or noisy? Does or can down when it warms up? Sounds like a sludged pot of pain to me. May check in with actual advice later.. Can't think too much driving on poo poo roads.
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Jan 14, 2015 05:47
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West SAAB Story posted:Was it a full rattle or noisy? Does or can down when it warms up? Sounds like a sludged pot of pain to me. May check in with actual advice later.. Can't think too much driving on poo poo roads. I'm thinking I might have overreacted at least a bit about the noise the car made at work yesterday, maybe because it was parked with the nose against a brick wall. Just now I started it up again in order to scan it. It sounds like it's been doing all year, not smooth like a healthy gas engine, almost but not quite like a diesel (this noise seems the same whether hot or cold). It's around freezing, and what I suspect to be a bearing for a pulley on the belt was making intermittent screeching noises. Full disclosure; i stupidly sprayed some degreaser in the engine bay in a misguided attempt to clean it up a bit a few weeks ago. I fear I may have degreased a bearing somewhere. It comes and goes, and only when the car is cold started, so I haven't managed to pin down what's noisy yet. I think I should rather fix it, whatever it is, if the car is to be driven. If the bearing seizes completely and is indeed on the belt, bad things are bound to happen even if it's just an idler pulley. The obd code is p0116, which indeed seems to be the engine coolant temperature sensor, which I take it is not really critical for driving the car, nor too difficult to fix? FWIW I've seen no signs of oil sludge, except a very little at the very top of the narrow "funnel" the the oil dipstick cap screws into. Hoses and oil pan seem alright. Invalido fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jan 14, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 18:22
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Invalido posted:drive "like an Italian" like he also said to do. Wait. What? What does that even mean?
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Jan 14, 2015 23:17
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Flog the poo poo out of it. Red line a warmed up engine, etc.
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Jan 14, 2015 23:18
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Invalido posted:I'm thinking I might have overreacted at least a bit about the noise the car made at work yesterday, maybe because it was parked with the nose against a brick wall. Just now I started it up again in order to scan it. It sounds like it's been doing all year, not smooth like a healthy gas engine, almost but not quite like a diesel (this noise seems the same whether hot or cold). It's around freezing, and what I suspect to be a bearing for a pulley on the belt was making intermittent screeching noises. Full disclosure; i stupidly sprayed some degreaser in the engine bay in a misguided attempt to clean it up a bit a few weeks ago. I fear I may have degreased a bearing somewhere. It comes and goes, and only when the car is cold started, so I haven't managed to pin down what's noisy yet. We all do that once. Without thinking I once sprayed belt dressing on my serp. If it doesn't sound like skeletons loving in a dumpster, it is probably recoverable.  Invalido posted:II think I should rather fix it, whatever it is, if the car is to be driven. If the bearing seizes completely and is indeed on the belt, bad things are bound to happen even if it's just an idler pulley. Yep. Check your tensioner and pullies. Check your serp routing to see if you are still a 'long' belt, or if you have been converted to a 'short' belt. The short belt removes a pulley, but people complain of a bit more shuddering and shaking at idle (when in gear). At its' age, my guess is that the tensioner is probably all but done. Since you are going to fix it anyhow, check your thermostat. Its probably just failed (open). I'd pull it and Pull the battery for about an hour, and keep in mind that it will "re-learn" after you get everything back together, so things will feel a little different for the first few hundred miles/km (or not, depending no how you drive). To check for sludge, you really need to drop the oil pan and check there (and the sump). A cheaper not-as-loving-nuts check is to use one of those cheap video cameras/dental mirrors up the drain plug hole- but I've never been able to see poo poo that way. keykey posted:Wait. What? What does that even mean? "Cause death by starvation" in the case of an abused OG 9-5/9-3. 
West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jan 15, 2015 |
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Jan 15, 2015 17:29
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Thanks. I feel encouraged. So I did the Tom&Ray special and put a length of hose in my ear, prodding around a bit. It must have been a bit too warm because there was no screeching, but the top left idler pulley sounded rough nevertheless, so it's my prime suspect. If it's colder tomorrow morning I might try again, otherwise I'll chance it and order the pulley, a new belt (the current one looks less than pristine), a thermostat+seal and an ECT sensor. I'm pretty sure it's the long belt being an '00, but I'll make as sure as possible before I order. All the parts should add up to less than 100 USD, so it's worth the gamble if it lets me rattle around in this car for another year. Dropping the pan will have to wait until the next oil change is due at the very least. With my frugal driving habits that should hopefully be a few months at least. I suppose I'll need to buy or borrow a torque wrench for that too. It's a shame about the engine noise though. If it wasn't for that, I'd probably do some more things to the vehicle. Flush/change the transmission fluid, install an AUX in the stereo, get a new windscreen maybe... As it is, I just wanna keep it rolling a little bit longer, safely and at least somewhat reliably. In my mind I am already unfaithful with the Idea of getting a volvo V70, which I believe to be an objectively better car for a man with my vehicular needs even if I enjoy the little SAAB quirks as much as the next person. Economically speaking though, I guess it always makes sense to do minor repairs on a vehicle you already own. I also suspect my MAF sensor is a bit iffy; the idle is less than perfect and this summer during a heatwave there were some major stutters during hard acceleration just above 3000 RPM. Is it worth it to try and clean it, and if so is there a particular way to go about this?
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Jan 15, 2015 19:55
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Invalido posted:I also suspect my MAF sensor is a bit iffy; the idle is less than perfect and this summer during a heatwave there were some major stutters during hard acceleration just above 3000 RPM. Is it worth it to try and clean it, and if so is there a particular way to go about this? RIP Tom. :fuck2014.gif: Its a loving GM product. I had a MAF poo poo after 10k. No amount of cleaning or pampering got it working. I kept it. I may have it bronzed (it'd only cost about 10% more than it did OEM). If your oil light doesn't come on when going uphill (and over 2k RPM), you are probably 'kind of ok' for sludge. Otherwise, start looking for $700 tercels. I think your thermostat poo poo itself, but never had a thermostat go full retard on the dummy gauge, so I'm not really sure without tearing down. You are doing the right thing. If you have a 4 speed slushbox, and it isn't misshifting- LEAVE IT THE gently caress ALONE. E: gently caress YOU WINTER. 
West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jan 15, 2015 |
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Jan 15, 2015 20:28
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Francis Baconator posted:I could go through the usual laundry list of suggestions, but I have an idea sure to solve your problem. Sell it to me. My plan is to drive it for 6 months (or atleast through part of an autumn/winter so I can get some cold weather boost fun) and then sell it so that I can play with my other 99 (an LPG powered T16..) It has an original factory water injection kit fitted. Driving it is like 'foot down..... lag lag lag lag lag lag lag gently caress gently caress gently caress WARP SPEED poo poo I NEED TO STEER WHILE IM HOLDING ON WHY ARE ALL THOSE GAUGES RED? poo poo I NEED TO MOVE MY FOOT BUT MY SHOE IS STUCK UNDER THE DASH' Please buy it! 
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Jan 15, 2015 21:43
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Tomarse posted:My plan is to drive it for 6 months (or atleast through part of an autumn/winter so I can get some cold weather boost fun) and then sell it so that I can play with my other 99 (an LPG powered T16..) "We've gone to Plaid" isn't a loving Volvo feature, dammit.
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Jan 15, 2015 21:47
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So, I got a call back from my agent. "Why do you care about a small windshield crack?" 'Because it will be your replacement next year.' "Never thought of it that way." Neither did I. 
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Jan 15, 2015 21:48
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E: I'm done. Its pretty sad when you are getting "supporting" forum messages for bullshit probations (even if you have spent a couple hours shitposting all over a forum for your own amusement). I did find IoCs' temporary title and the current one as fairly funny, though. I think I'd rather not participate. If you need me, STR knows where to find me, or you can hit up via saviggen at the googs. West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Jan 17, 2015 |
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Jan 15, 2015 21:57
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Tomarse posted:My plan is to drive it for 6 months (or atleast through part of an autumn/winter so I can get some cold weather boost fun) and then sell it so that I can play with my other 99 (an LPG powered T16..)  You'll have to share some pictures, if nothing less. Maybe post back here in 6 months!
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Jan 16, 2015 00:11
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So this morning I was in the parking lot trying to pin down the squeal again. A few spaces over was another guy, also with his head stuck under the hood of his 9-3. The comedy of the situation led me to comment on it, and we got to talking about the general crappiness of our automobiles. Turns out he has a junk SAAB he pulls parts from, and a friend who's "good with SAABs" and has junk 9-5's - a possible SAAB whisperer? He also listened to my engine and said it was definitely valve noise in his opinion, and was mightily impressed with my improvised click&clack stethoscope. We exchanged phone numbers and he said he'd call me about an idler pulley later. /just another SAAB story 
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Jan 16, 2015 10:51
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http://ttela.se/ekonomi/saab/1.3713387-i-dag-mots-orio-och-bmw-i-hovratten Today ORIO and BMW face each other in court. Gist of is that BMW sued ORIO (formerly SAAB parts) as BMW claimed SAABs debt should be collected from ORIO. BMW has already lost in the "regular" court (whatever that's called) but appealed and the case is not in supreme court(?).
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Jan 19, 2015 12:29
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Did I miss some forum drama? Sorry for the late update, but I had the ATF changed a few weeks ago. The mechanic said that it did need to be changed as it was getting pretty dark. When I pressed him he did not think it was a problem with the transmission and just think it needs to be changed every 30,000 miles. This is the second place to say that and drive the car and saying that the trans felt fine. But after the comments in this thread I am starting to get paranoid about it. I also got the code reader that Saab Story recommended and will start in trying to fix the error. The back windshield wiper broke when I was scraping ice off it so another thing to add to the list. I have read through most of the thread and wanted to say thanks for the comments and help in this thread so far, you guys are pretty great.
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Jan 21, 2015 23:01
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All fluids that can be changed should be changed regularly. SAABs official change intervals have always been too far apart, and one of the main culprits in sludge related incidents (engine that is). Both types of gearboxes should have their oil changed regularly - and ONLY with oil that satisfy SAABs requirement. There were some changes in oil on older SAABs so either go with the manual or ask official instances for advice. There was a story on the local forum about a mechanic that put some generic oil on a gearbox and that told a customer that the auto gearbox would "warm up to a new oil", if the customer just took a few agressive trips to warm it up. This is a sure way to end up on the scrap yard, looking for a new gearbox. Don't ever trust that mechanics are smarter than the engineers that designed the car. I've heard of mechanics that didn't recommend an oil change because he rubbed the oil between his fingers and "it felt alright". Numerous stories about synth vs. semi-synth vs. mineral oil and how you should change once the engine has traveled so and so far - gibberish! Get an engine oil that satisfy Dexos 2 for the b2x5, always. The cheap GM oil is running is 400+ hp beasts and is a decent oil. You don't have to use expensive Mobil1 New Life or ESP since you want to change every 10,000km. My 9-5 had Dexron 3 oil in it's manual gearbox. Probably some lovely advice from somewhere. 
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Jan 23, 2015 10:25
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Roadside phone posting. So I ordered parts, they finally arrived, I tried to drive the nine miles to work in order to wrench in the big heated garage there. I lost the serpentine belt about half way, so I'm waiting for the boss to come give me a tow. Good thing I crept along the back road instead of taking the highway! Another good thing is that my family is not stranded here with me. I could mostly coast into a parking space and only ran the engine for about ten seconds without coolant circulation. I will probably have to run it another ten in order to get inside the garage. It's pretty obvious which pulley it was that seized from all the pulverized rubber next to it.
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Jan 28, 2015 08:11
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Iskariot posted:... Both types of gearboxes should have their oil changed regularly - and ONLY with oil that satisfy SAABs requirement... I've seen the WIS diagram of the fill/check/drain plugs but couldn't tell if I can get at them from above or through the wheel well without it being a horrible ordeal. In other news, I got my randomly exploded side airbag fixed (that I mentioned a few months ago). The side impact sensor failed. Had all the wiring checked out, sensor replaced, and a new (used) seat installed. This was all very stupid financially but car love is not rational. Now I have more projects!
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Jan 30, 2015 15:44
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You could probably get by without raising the car but it would depend on how skinny you are. The drain plug is on the side of the tranny facing the oil pan and pretty much at the bottom. Changing the gearbox oil is very straight forward and pretty similar to a engine oil change. I have to get my '00 9-5 Aero up either via stands or ramps to do either my engine oil or gearbox oil changes since it rides so low. JayKay fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jan 31, 2015 |
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Jan 31, 2015 03:17
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Yeah, sounds like ramps might be in order. For some reason I thought the drain plug was on the other side. I drive up on two boards to get about 2 inches of extra clearance -- just enough for an oil change. I don't think I'd be able to slither under there far enough to do anything else, though.
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Jan 31, 2015 16:02
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Yeah, I think the drain is on the outboard side. And depending on the condition of your engine mounts, it may be sitting pretty close to the subframe and you might only be able to use the short end of an allen key on it.
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Feb 1, 2015 04:30
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Derp I missed the 9-3 part. On the 9-5 it's on the side closest to the engine.
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Feb 1, 2015 14:17
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I finally had some time to wrench on the SAAB, and everything is right with the world again. I had mail ordered the wrong belt (cheaply) and had the buy the right one locally (dearly). The thermostat was indeed hard to get to and I bled a little, but after removing the battery and a radiator hose it wasn't too difficult with the right kind of socket extension.I haven't tested neither the old thermostat nor the coolant temp sensor to see which was as fault, but everything seems to work with both of them replaced. Now to re-learn for the umpteenth time how to set the date and time...
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Feb 3, 2015 06:22
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Huzzah, after being garaged for a month, my '00 9-5 Aero won't start.  Lights come on, SID gives OK message, when I try to crank it slowly cranks once but wont start and then all lights go out. Tried jumping it, but no luck. No CEL, no codes stored.Thinking it might be fuel pump because I didn't hear it now that I think about it.
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Feb 4, 2015 23:39
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Why is it cranking slowly and only once if it's the fuel pump? I'm not much of a mechanic, but it sounds like a dying battery or possibly a bad starter motor. Did it act exactly the same when you tried to jump it?
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Feb 5, 2015 07:03
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Yeah I went back and listened again for the fuel pump and I did hear the whirr it usually makes. Jump starting it had no effect. Just the same sound of the car trying to turn over once and then all the lights shutting off in the car. I'm fairly certain the Crank Position Sensor was replaced a few years ago by the PO. So that narrows it down to battery (good possibility), DIC/plugs, or the starter.
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Feb 5, 2015 07:59
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Its a SAAB. It can't just be as simple as a dead battery, it has to be something complicated,expensive, and Swedish !!! it was the battery 
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Feb 7, 2015 23:05
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I was filling up yesterday and the pimpled 20ish year old fuel professional kept walking around my car and looking at it before bending over and staring at the badge. Finally he rounds up to the driver's window and asks "What's a Saab?", pronouncing it like "sad" or "dad'. Oh boy. If only Viggen was here for this. I leave out the Saabaru explanation since it would only confuse the poor chap and keep it as simple as possible. Something something Sweden, something something GM, something something bankrupt, something something China. "Oh - it has a hood scoop, how many liters has it got?" "5.7," I immediately joke. Big mistake. He delivers a lecture for the next eternity on GM and Trans Ams in particular and well there's not much love for them but boy let me tell you there was sure some real talent working on those cars, my dad had one and blah blah blah blah The fuel nozzle is still in my car and I'm not legally allowed to pull it out myself in the state of Oregon and oh god I just want to drive away and maybe I should just do it with the filler hose still attached.
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Feb 12, 2015 06:29
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I just test drove This Saab 9-5 2.3T 82,000 miles and I am seriously considering trading in my current car for it. I haven't been able to find any warnings online about the 06 models, so I was wondering if there was some issues I should look out for. I've never had a high mileage car before, or something that required lots of maintenance, so i am a bit wary. I love the way it looks, though! And the prospect of getting a luxury (-ish) sedan without paying for the badge has real appeal to me. Should I buy a Saab, or are they not worth the trouble?
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Feb 18, 2015 05:57
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Looks nice. Ventilated seats, manual, sunroof and the 2.3T setup. There's a dent in the hood though. After 05 SAAB mended the oil sludge problems mostly. You should still change oil every 10,000 km to be sure. The register chain can last twice the milage if the engine has been taken care of (200,000km is mostly the norm). 2.3T means the Mitsubishi TD04 which is very durable. I'd say go for it. I'm warming up to the Dame Edna front but I'm planning to convert a MY08 9-3 Aero lower front front for it like this: http://www.garaget.org/mypage/gallery_image.php?user=53021&image=1655691
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Feb 18, 2015 09:51
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Going to check this out, if the owner gets back to me: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/4909979993.html anything I should know when looking it over?
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Feb 28, 2015 18:06
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You guys on the east coast have it good. In the Midwest, Saabs and Volvos are considered quasi-exotics and generally overpriced. Anything remotely close to fair market value doesn't even last a day. Most of the time it's still overpriced and just beat to crap. The Midwest is used car hell.
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Feb 28, 2015 20:03
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Karl Barks posted:Going to check this out, if the owner gets back to me: The main problem that those had was with the PCV system, so make sure that has been updated, I believe it is known as the PCV #7 update.
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Feb 28, 2015 21:28
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Francis Baconator posted:You guys on the east coast have it good. In the Midwest, Saabs and Volvos are considered quasi-exotics and generally overpriced. Anything remotely close to fair market value doesn't even last a day. Most of the time it's still overpriced and just beat to crap. Salt.
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Mar 1, 2015 00:50
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This morning I said to my wife, "I really miss all the Swedish cars I used to have. I think I forgot how nice it was to have something so unique ." Without missing a beat she replied, "Well, when you get home, I'll kindly kick you in the balls and maybe that will bring back your memories of them." I laughed. Then cried. Because it was true.
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Mar 3, 2015 01:29
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Francis Baconator posted:You guys on the east coast have it good. In the Midwest, Saabs and Volvos are considered quasi-exotics and generally overpriced. Anything remotely close to fair market value doesn't even last a day. Most of the time it's still overpriced and just beat to crap. Along with BMW, Mercs and Rovers. Them furien cars!
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Mar 3, 2015 20:23
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Francis Baconator posted:I laughed. Then cried. Because it was true. Post pics of your new car, jagoff.
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Mar 12, 2015 03:00
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So I've been looking at Saab 9-3 convertibles for the past month and I've narrowed my search down to two:- 2007 9-3 Aero with 50k kms on it - spoke to the seller a couple of weeks ago and he said hthe lowest he'd take would be 17.5k for it (but that was when he had it listed for $19k, I think I could get him down to $17k now) http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3258712 Or 2007 9-3 Linear with 74k kms on it for $13k (I'm assuming I could probably get it for around 11-12k - this is Australia by the way). http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3234749 Either would be a performance upgrade for me coming from a Hyundai Elantra, I'm looking for something fun and my heart says get the Aero, but my head says get the Linear (for price and easier to work on engine). I plan to do basic maintenance myself as I have been for my Hyundai. Given the choice and their relative price, what would everyone here get?
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Mar 15, 2015 12:15
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West SAAB Story posted:Post pics of your new car, jagoff. 
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Mar 15, 2015 15:36
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Loquitor posted:So I've been looking at Saab 9-3 convertibles for the past month and I've narrowed my search down to two:- I've just bought a 2.0t with 'only' 175HP on it and that's reasonably quick. Not quick enough to take your breath away, but enough that the limitation is how quickly you are breaking the speed limit. I am not sure that 50% more fuel consumption and 5,000 moon-dollars are worth the extra 70HP - not least because you can get about half that for the cost of a remap (I understand)
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Mar 15, 2015 16:10
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