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Pimpmust posted:I drew this kitbash to celebrate my gunpla...ism yesterday: "Forbidden Vagina" is a good Gundam pilot name.
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Mar 3, 2015 18:31
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Considering we've had Quad Vagina and Full Frontal (from basically the same dude) already, yeah that wouldn't surprise me at all.
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Mar 3, 2015 19:21
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Hyaku Shiki 2.0 is going to be about 7200 yen, so safe to say it's chromed.
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Mar 3, 2015 20:37
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BlitzBlast posted:Hyaku Shiki 2.0 is going to be about 7200 yen, so safe to say it's chromed. Yeah, which blows because I'd rather have a cheaper yellow plastic one and paint it myself than spend the extra $20+ markup on parts I'd have to strip myself. Or you know just get the Robot Damashii like I was planning anyway.
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Mar 3, 2015 20:44
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Mecha Gojira posted:Yeah, which blows because I'd rather have a cheaper yellow plastic one and paint it myself than spend the extra $20+ markup on parts I'd have to strip myself. apparently it's not that crappy tinfoil gold, but more like the hd version, which is a plus. Still wish it was the yellow plastic version though.
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Mar 3, 2015 21:25
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Anyone have experience with both Mr. Metal Color Chrome Silver and Mr. Color Super Fine Silver? I'd like a handbrush alternative to Alclad for thrusters, metallizing parts, and possible future candycoating.
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Mar 3, 2015 21:57
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hey we might get lucky and the Hyaku Shiki will have all undergated armor.
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Mar 3, 2015 22:53
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BlitzBlast posted:Hyaku Shiki 2.0 is going to be about 7200 yen, so safe to say it's chromed. Oh dammit, what's wrong with a good matte. I don't want to wear gloves while building this thing.
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Mar 4, 2015 02:13
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Stripping chrome off is a pain in the butt.
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Mar 4, 2015 03:39
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And yet, Strike Freedom still can't get a fully chromed inner frame. 
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Mar 4, 2015 04:25
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Ka0 posted:Stripping chrome off is a pain in the butt. Truth. Whoever thought that chroming without undergating was a good idea needs to die in a fire. At that price point, the HS2.0 had drat well better be entirely undergated.
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Mar 4, 2015 07:18
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No reason to think it wouldn't be. If they go with one of the more muted golds and solve the (very few) seam issues from the original, I don't see a problem with keeping the finish as is.
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Mar 4, 2015 07:24
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The Hyaku-Shiki 1.0 was undergated, so why wouldn't the 2.0 be?
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Mar 4, 2015 07:39
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Anyone have any idea what the proper water:dettol ratio is and how long I should leave my parts in, for stripping paint? e; dear Bandai: who do we have to murder to get you to release a RG Gouf that has all the weapons needed to make a regular Gouf/Gouf Custom/Gouf R35 in one kit? I'm, uh, asking for a friend. Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Mar 4, 2015 |
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Mar 4, 2015 09:38
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Dammit, why is it that whenever I finally get around to ordering paints and action bases I find sweet, sweet web exclusives to burn the month's gunpla budget on instead? Every. loving. Time. 
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Mar 4, 2015 17:05
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Lemon Curdistan posted:e; dear Bandai: who do we have to murder to get you to release a RG Gouf that has all the weapons needed to make a regular Gouf/Gouf Custom/Gouf R35 in one kit? I'm, uh, asking for a friend. The Gouf and the Gouf Custom are pretty different.   And the R35 has a different load out and different legs than either of them, so I'm gonna go with no amount of murdering will get your wish. If they make a RG Gouf they'll probably do a web shop exclusive RG Gouf Custom tho.
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Mar 4, 2015 17:16
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Lemon Curdistan posted:e; dear Bandai: who do we have to murder to get you to release a RG Gouf that has all the weapons needed to make a regular Gouf/Gouf Custom/Gouf R35 in one kit? I'm, uh, asking for a friend. No RG Gouf Custom without an RG Ground Type for it to beat the poo poo out of.  If they do, I bet the GM head and all the different backpack container weapons would end up being a web shop exclusive.
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Mar 4, 2015 18:50
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boom boom boom posted:The Gouf and the Gouf Custom are pretty different. Then again, you are comparing the MG Gouf 2.0 to the MG Gouf custom there. Interesting fact: the Original MG Gouf and the MG Gouf custom are very much based off much shared engineering.  Not that the original MG Gouf isn't dogshit compared to the 2.0, but it shows the possibility for shared molds exists. Gouf is a funny word when you write it out a lot. Gouf. Gouf. Goooooooooouf.
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Mar 4, 2015 22:06
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Chewbacca posted:Gouf is a funny word when you write it out a lot. Gouf. Gouf. Goooooooooouf. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPqomrYO960 It gets posted every time, and I'm still not tired of it.
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Mar 4, 2015 22:27
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPqomrYO960 Every time I watch this I lament how much of a wasted opportunity it was to not have put in stills of Jimba and Ramba Ral when the lyrics go "like father, like son." Anyway, the Gouf Custom and 2.0 aren't that different except for the extra panel detail on the Custom. I'd be happy with a ver.Ka'd regular Gouf that just came with all the weapon options. Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Mar 4, 2015 |
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Mar 4, 2015 23:08
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There's nothing stopping them from doing a Gouf Custom based on the 2.0 frame, and it sucks that they haven't because the old kit is crraaaaaap.
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Mar 5, 2015 00:11
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Anything wrong with old MG like the Acguy or Z'gok? Not that matters much because I want to build them so baad.
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Mar 5, 2015 01:00
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The Acguy is pretty dope and has a really interesting internal structure, its only bad point is the half-assed spring-loaded claw gimmick which is just like LOL nope.
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Mar 5, 2015 01:03
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Is there any way to "buff" out scratches from sanding? I gave 2000 grit sand paper but I don't think that will work.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:00
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Short answer; kind of. Some scratches will always remain no matter what you use on it. This is one reason clear coat over bare plastic is a thing. They can be minimized greatly, though. Basically you want to use progressively finer grades of sandpaper until you are essentially polishing the plastic. You can also use toothpaste as a final polish but this will impart a high gloss to the plastic which may not be the effect you're looking for. But again, going at it methodically is key. Hitting an area with #2000 grit that was originally sanded with #600 is not going to accomplish very much on its own. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 02:06
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Ka0 posted:Anything wrong with old MG like the Acguy or Z'gok? Not that matters much because I want to build them so baad. The MG Acguy is super fun. The mid section is pretty heavy, but it's really cool. The shoulder and hip joints "pop" out to allow for more flexibility. The arms and legs both extend a bit. You do have to use a screwdriver to assemble the spring-loaded claw, though. I haven't had any problems with that gimmick. I really like the fold out cockpit entrance thing. It also comes with the three little kids from the original show, a scuba diver, a man with briefcase, a bunch of water effect parts, and an action base. It is easily worth the 30-40 bucks it costs.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:13
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Bimmi posted:Short answer; kind of. Some scratches will always remain no matter what you use on it. This is one reason clear coat over bare plastic is a thing. I did use progressive sanding (400 to 700 to 1200), so I don't think it's too bad.  I was planning to use a flat clear coat so I'm glad to hear it should help.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:23
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That definitely needs a further going over with some #800 and #1000 grit, then again with the #1200. Also be sure to wet-sand at all times, it makes things much easier and the results much better. One thing that minimizes the hell out of scratches with little effort is Brasso metal polish, which I used for years with no problems, but it eventually did ruin a part and now i'm leery of it. poo poo's also noxious as all get-out. Bon Ami scouring powder is a fine and thankfully non-toxic abrasive that's very useful for buffing out medium-to-light sanding damage, but it's really messy to use. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 02:35
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Bimmi posted:That definitely needs a further going over with some #800 and #1000 grit, then again with the #1200. Also be sure to wet-sand at all times, it makes things much easier and the results much better. Bolded for emphasis. It is impossible to overstate how much wet sanding helps in clearing up scratches and blemishes on bare plastic. Or really any time you want a super smooth, clean surface.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:43
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Seriously. I take wet-sanding as such a given that I often forget to even mention it.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:54
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Thanks for the tips! All the videos I've seen haven't even mentioned wet-sanding, so I never bothered. I'll give it a shot. If it turns out well enough, I'll re sand all my parts... I'll never get to start working on my Turn X. 
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Mar 5, 2015 03:04
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A few days ago, my brother asked me if I'd be willing to part with some old, unopened G.I. Joe figures I picked up back when the first live action movie came out. I said sure, since it's not like I was ever planning on doing anything with them. In exchange, he ended up buying me a Master Grade Exia Dark Matter, which came in today and he just dropped it off with me a few minutes ago. Looking over the instructions, I notice that there's an option for building the GN Drives with LEDs... which LEDs would I be looking for in order to make this work?
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Mar 5, 2015 03:33
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There are official Bandai LED two packs. They're kind of overpriced for what they are (they don't even come with batteries), but them's the breaks. The official Bandai ones only come in green (and red, but those are rarer), so if you want another color look up third party stuff. The MG Dark Matter only needs green ones though, so it works out.
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Mar 5, 2015 03:41
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W.T. Fits posted:which LEDs would I be looking for in order to make this work? Probably these dudes. There are cheaper knockoffs available on eBay, too.
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Mar 5, 2015 03:41
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W.T. Fits posted:A few days ago, my brother asked me if I'd be willing to part with some old, unopened G.I. Joe figures I picked up back when the first live action movie came out. I said sure, since it's not like I was ever planning on doing anything with them. In exchange, he ended up buying me a Master Grade Exia Dark Matter, which came in today and he just dropped it off with me a few minutes ago. Looking over the instructions, I notice that there's an option for building the GN Drives with LEDs... which LEDs would I be looking for in order to make this work? You want the official Gunpla LED 2-pack. The Red ones, specifically. I just linked one the stores so you know what to look for.
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Mar 5, 2015 03:41
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Bimmi posted:Probably these dudes. There are cheaper knockoffs available on eBay, too.
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Mar 5, 2015 03:42
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So an EMS package of mine is lost somewhere in the mail and I'm just glad it isn't too expensive of rare. This is like the first time ever I've had a problem with EMS.
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Mar 5, 2015 03:43
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More sandingtalk: I'm continuing to get fairly good results from (very carefully) using a metal file and a 3-step nail buffing bar; I can almost always get a piece back to looking totally untouched, even dry. Problem is, I sometimes lose surface detail or wind up slightly rounding edges that are supposed to be sharp, especially with the buffing bar in the latter case. Do I just need to get better at this lest I risk sullying the kits I'm saving for ~perfect builds~ or whatever bullshit I've got in the back of my head to excuse my backlog?
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Mar 5, 2015 03:49
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Zwingley posted:More sandingtalk: I'm continuing to get fairly good results from (very carefully) using a metal file and a 3-step nail buffing bar; I can almost always get a piece back to looking totally untouched, even dry. Well, using a metal file for anything other than major plastic removal is a really bad idea. You're better off with 320-grit sandpaper to start instead, unless you've got some major sprue nubs to start sanding down. The metal file should never, ever touch the part itself, unless it's to remove a ton of plastic. I prefer sandpaper glued to popsicle sticks instead of a buffing bar. The buffing bars tend to be flexible, and can wrap around edges and whatnot, eroding detail. Plus, you get better control of the grits you have access to if you make your own sticks. And, as above, wet sand.
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Mar 5, 2015 03:55
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It is really, really difficult to keep from rounding off flat surfaces when sanding. I have a lot of practice and specialized tools for the job and I still gently caress up all the time. It doesn't take much, tell you what. But yes, files are generally overkill. I'm all about sanding sticks of various grits and grades of firmness, and I usually make sure the nub is completely gone before I even think about breaking out the abrasives.
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Mar 5, 2015 04:06
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