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PM me if you want. I have a buddy down in Parker that is a broker and usually has 5-10 SuMo's in his garage. Also, PM me so I can get you added to the Mile High Motards group. We do stupid stuff and track days.
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Feb 6, 2015 06:12
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TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:So I just relocated to Denver and am shopping dual sports because I have a weird wanna-be outdoorsman fantasy of riding cool places offroad. Not really interested in jumps and fast riding, but I would like a small bike for learning offroad skills. So jealous. The WRs around here are ridiculously rare and over priced, I've seen maybe one for sale in the past year for over 5k because MODZ 
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Feb 8, 2015 05:35
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So I finally have time to fix my DRZ that has been broken forever. It ejected the plug on the highway a while ago and has been sitting for more than a year. I capped the sparkplug hole but not very well as some moisture has gotten into the cylinder. I'm planning on putting an insert into the old threads but wanted to figure out why exactly it blew up before I put the work into fixing it only to have it happen again. Here is a picture of the top of the piston: The black poo poo is fairly soft due to moisture intrusion and I was planning on taping over the coolant passages and scraping it off with a plastic scraper. Friends have suggested that it was burning coolant before it blew? There is a chance that it was a little low on oil before it died. Not certain. What new bits beyond a head gasket do I need during reassembly? Engine mount nuts?
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Feb 10, 2015 18:38
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You goddamn monster what did you do to that biek
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Feb 10, 2015 20:33
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I know  I was under the impression it was being stored inside an actual garage but it was just a covered outdoor space and I was out of town for a long time and it didn't look this bad when I had it apart initially. I think it's carbon deposits that were softened by water into a goop. It scrapes off with a fingernail, its not a hard scale buildup if that is what it looks like. I can post pictures of the cylinder head as well if it helps.
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Feb 10, 2015 20:50
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While you have it taken apart that far you could fit an E base gasket too and get a little bump in compression/power.
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Feb 10, 2015 21:40
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I take it that's the cylinder base you are talking about? Would changing to an E head gasket make a difference as well?
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Feb 10, 2015 21:53
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no hes talking about the top gasket that alters the distance from the head to the piston
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Feb 10, 2015 21:55
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henne posted:I take it that's the cylinder base you are talking about? Would changing to an E head gasket make a difference as well? yeah its the base gasket, the E one is a single layer the S and SM is a 3 layer type. afaik the head gaskets are the same. EX250 Type R posted:no hes talking about the top gasket that alters the distance from the head to the piston Thinning the base gasket also does this.
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Feb 10, 2015 22:04
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its been a long day ill just go gently caress myself tia
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Feb 10, 2015 22:08
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dreesemonkey posted:Any of you guys ever see one of these? Thought it was funny to see show up at my local dealer. I have a xr400r converted to supermoto. The power is great (top speed is around 85 mph), but it doesn't really like being revved high for long periods of time. Less than a year into ownership and mine probably needs valve work or new rings. It stopped running on my way to work a few weeks back. EDIT: FYI mine has a pumper carb and stage 3 hotcam installed, so the power is a little different than stock. It's number two on my priorities right now. Behind an RX7 FD basket-case, which will hopefully be as far away from my garage as possible within the next few weeks!
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Feb 14, 2015 21:37
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A set of stage 2 cams for a DRZ is about $250 on amazon right now, and a cylinder works 434 kit is about $400. I'm seriously tempted to impulse buy the poo poo out of all of this, but I know literally nothing about the type of work that needs to be done so that my stock valves (17kmi) don't just die instantly (other than it doesn't sound terribly DIYable). Does anyone know remotely how much it would cost to bring a shop the head and have new valves/springs put in? I'm fairly sure there has to be some race shop around houston that could do that kind of work, but If I'm going to be spending a ton of money on loving -valves- then I think I'll just blow this whole project off. e: Or I might just scream "YOLO" from the rooftops, install only the cams, and pray my OEM valves are good. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Feb 16, 2015 |
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Feb 16, 2015 12:43
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If you want to run anything more aggressive than the stage 1 Hot Cams you need to cough up for Kibblewhite valves and springs or something similar. Trying to run any of the Web cams or stage 2+ Hot Cams will end in two piece valve explosion tears. Call somewhere local and a get a quote, but the cost of installing new valves isn't actually that much considering how much the set of cams plus the 434 kit cost. Edit: if you want to compromise just get stage 1 Hot Cams and do the 434 with your stock valves. Although about 20k miles might be getting up there for the additional stress on two-piece valves. Yerok fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Feb 16, 2015 |
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Feb 16, 2015 20:10
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Are the kibblewhite valves any good? I read a bunch of posts of people hating on them, but I never take anything posted on thumpertalk at face value. E: Basically, the gist I get is that the only valves they trust over there are made by some dude named Ron. Not saying they're not legit, but this is the same forum full of guys that spend horrible amounts of money sending motors out to one guy because he's clearly the only person capable of bolting a 434kit onto a DRZ. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 03:16
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Marxalot posted:Are the kibblewhite valves any good? I read a bunch of posts of people hating on them, but I never take anything posted on thumpertalk at face value. I found a Magnum big bore that I emailed Eddie Sisneros about. He said he installed a few and they worked well with no problems or anything. Somewhere in my post history for this thread I talked about it I'm sure. Here's one for ~$290. You might email him again and check with him as that was at least a year ago, maybe he knows more now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnum-Big-...e494c84&vxp=mtr I wouldn't bother paying a shop to do the install honestly, you can do it yourself following a guide or something. You could pick up the hot cams + big bore for the same price as one CW big bore kit. It's what I was going to do to the bike until I decided to sell it. Leaves room to get the valves taken care of too.
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Feb 17, 2015 04:24
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Marxalot posted:Are the kibblewhite valves any good? I read a bunch of posts of people hating on them, but I never take anything posted on thumpertalk at face value. loving thumpertalk. RHC valves are just Ferreas so if you wanna spend the extra money on slightly lighter valves/springs than Kibblewhites go for it I guess. I'd buy them from Ferrea instead of throwing money at Ron, though.
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Feb 17, 2015 05:21
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Baller Witness Bro posted:I found a Magnum big bore that I emailed Eddie Sisneros about. He said he installed a few and they worked well with no problems or anything. Somewhere in my post history for this thread I talked about it I'm sure. Here's one for ~$290. You might email him again and check with him as that was at least a year ago, maybe he knows more now. If something in that kit poo poo itself because I tried to save $100 I'd feel like the biggest shittiest retard. I do too many highway miles (Houston sucks) to really want to risk it. That said, are you talking about doing the valves or BB kit myself? Because doing the latter on my own was pretty much always the plan. Valves I know literally nothing about, and have no tools for. But If someone quotes me something like $200 in labor I'll buy whatever I need (short of a machine shop) and just learn how  Yerok posted:loving thumpertalk. RHC valves are just Ferreas so if you wanna spend the extra money on slightly lighter valves/springs than Kibblewhites go for it I guess. I'd buy them from Ferrea instead of throwing money at Ron, though. Thanks. Kibblewhite valves and springs it is then. I kind of figured the RHC valves were mostly a cult of personality thing when I found out it was just one dude who discovered the magical secret to valves. Fakeedit: I'll probably hold off on buying all this crap for a while. In the past 2 weeks it's been new brake pads, a new chain, sprockets, skateboard wheels, new fork seals/oil, and a $4 car wash. Last month it was new tires. Maybe I'll do it when I find a new job. Obligatory work-in-progress unicycle pic. 
Marxalot fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 08:45
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Don't get me wrong, people have complaints about Kibblewhite valves/springs being too heavy in some applications. Ferreas are probably worth the extra money for anything that's not a DRZ, and personally I might spend the extra money because I'm an idiot. It's just a question of how much your tractor engine's performance is worth to you. I'm probably going to replace valves at the end of next season so I'll be dealing with the same headache in 7 months. Edit: http://www.power-barn.com/ferrea-racing-exhaust-valves-for-suzuki-drz-ltz-kawasaki-klx-kfx-arctic-cat-dvx/ http://www.power-barn.com/ferrea-racing-intake-valves-for-suzuki-drz-ltz-kawasaki-kfx-klx-arctic-cat-dvx/ Good ol' Power Barn. I met the owner of this place at Road America last year. $332 with springs and seals. Looks like a Kibblewhite set is around $290. This is what my DRZ is up to: 
Yerok fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 19:27
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Bleh, I guess two weeks is too long for the DRZ I'm babysitting to sit un-started, and now she won't. Battery is fine, it cranks and smells faintly of gas but doesn't even stumble or try to catch. Any quick ideas I can try before pulling the carb?
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Feb 24, 2015 05:28
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Bleh, I guess two weeks is too long for the DRZ I'm babysitting to sit un-started, and now she won't. Battery is fine, it cranks and smells faintly of gas but doesn't even stumble or try to catch. Possibly a stupid suggestion but set the carb to Prime and make sure the choke is pulled out. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Feb 24, 2015 |
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Feb 24, 2015 05:55
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Bleh, I guess two weeks is too long for the DRZ I'm babysitting to sit un-started, and now she won't. Battery is fine, it cranks and smells faintly of gas but doesn't even stumble or try to catch. If I go more than two days without starting mine it needs babying. 
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Feb 24, 2015 06:02
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Enough fiddling with the petcock and the choke and I got it to run a couple times, as long as about 10 seconds, then it dies abruptly. I think if I try it tomorrow it might go. I put some seafoam in the tank, too, just in case. In the mean time, I'm going to read the manual on this drat thing so I know what I'm doing.
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Feb 24, 2015 06:09
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You sure it has gas in it? DRZ tanks are pretty small.
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Feb 24, 2015 07:28
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-edit
Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Mar 1, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 02:28
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kuffs posted:You sure it has gas in it? DRZ tanks are pretty small. It definitely has gas in it, but this is weird: I drained the float bowl, then turned the petcock to 'Prime' and no additional fuel comes out. That doesn't really make sense to me...
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Mar 1, 2015 01:01
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Petcock problem, stuck float/needle or something?
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Mar 1, 2015 04:04
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Not the petcock, I pulled the fuel line out of the carb, put it on prime, plenty of fuel comes out. Has to be the float valve stuck shut. I sprayed some carb cleaner up the drain outlet and down the fuel inlet, I'm hoping that breaks it free. I really don't want to pull them.
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Mar 1, 2015 05:50
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Them? Isn't there only one? Single carbs are a million times easier than any other amount of carbs aside from zero. If there is gunky poo poo in there and you break it free, now it is in the float bowl looking to gently caress up some jets. Pull it, clean it, do it right.
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Mar 1, 2015 12:22
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I know, I just have Post Traumatic Carb Disorder, and it's not my bike so my desire to tear it apart is pretty low even if he said it was okay. edit: Pulled carb, cleaned out float bowl and needle, adjusted float height, bike fired right up. Yay. DEUCE SLUICE fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Mar 3, 2015 |
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Mar 1, 2015 21:32
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http://youtu.be/0-uvBvHpXdw
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Mar 1, 2015 22:37
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Man, the new first person GTAV looks amazing.
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Mar 1, 2015 22:40
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Well now my loving DRZ won't start. Edit: Got it. Did a snow burnout. Did a bunch more trying to ride it into the garage. Yerok fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Mar 4, 2015 |
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Mar 3, 2015 22:18
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Yerok posted:Well now my loving DRZ won't start. If it dips into the 50s mine gets sluggish. I doubt I could start it in freezing weather.
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Mar 4, 2015 15:50
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Chichevache posted:If it dips into the 50s mine gets sluggish. I doubt I could start it in freezing weather. I recently bought one and it wouldn't start in ~20 degree weather without some starter fluid but that turned out to be the PO putting in way too much fuel stabilizer. With a new tank of gas it starts fine, but needs maybe 20 minutes of choke or else it dies. But it has an aftermarket carb on it so that may help a bit.
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Mar 4, 2015 16:34
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builds character posted:I recently bought one and it wouldn't start in ~20 degree weather without some starter fluid but that turned out to be the PO putting in way too much fuel stabilizer. With a new tank of gas it starts fine, but needs maybe 20 minutes of choke or else it dies. But it has an aftermarket carb on it so that may help a bit. I'm sure the carb helps. I need the choke in the 50s, though only for a minute or two.
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Mar 4, 2015 16:48
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I only really need the choke in the 40s/30s to get it to idle for a few minutes. Edit: pretty sure my battery is on its last legs though. Yerok fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Mar 4, 2015 |
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Mar 4, 2015 17:07
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Where is everyone  I'm trying to get the band back together and get a sumo but alas...
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Mar 21, 2015 02:45
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You haven't gotten one yet? Come on, man, we've all just been sitting around waiting for you
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Mar 21, 2015 04:18
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Nostalgia4Dogges fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Mar 27, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 04:43
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| # ? May 11, 2024 07:06 |
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I'm about 90% sure either the stator or the R/R went out on my DRZ. It has about 19kmi on it, and the relatively new battery went flat on me while riding. I'm pretty sure it's not getting a charge, but I kind of need to wait for the battery to charge enough to start the bike before poking at it with a multimeter Does this seem legit? If so, I'll order it tomorrow after checking the bike. fakeedit: The R/R is only an extra $40, so I might just replace that too while I'm at it. Maybe.
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Mar 31, 2015 07:31
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