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the spyder posted:We have a set at our family beach house and yes, once you get used to them it's fine (I swear I haven't broken my arm falling off them as a kid... haha), but moving anything up/down really sucks. I'm planning on putting in a cheap HF winch/platform on a doubled up truss to move the black/yellow lid storage bins I seem to have dozens of. Oh yeah carrying anything up/down those steps is an absolute pain in the rear end and will end up with something hitting the ground. For moving things between floors a winch, chain hoist or something similar with a platform would be the way to go.
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Feb 24, 2015 19:10
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How often do you/or are you going to use a step sheer? I have been eyeballing metal working tools lately, and I know once I move, I am going to amass some tools.
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Feb 24, 2015 19:37
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How often do you/or are you going to use a step sheer? I have been eyeballing metal working tools lately, and I know once I move, I am going to amass some tools. I have only used it thus far to cut some 12G aluminum (don't do this). It's awesome. I actually want to buy/work with more sheet metal now that I have this. Next is a finger brake.
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Feb 24, 2015 20:47
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Decided to spend the evening in the shop working on my 93 R1 that I bought with minor body damage. I've had the parts for… months. Time to get to work! First off, check out our coworkers car. LHD Diesel Defender.  On to the body work. The car was hit on the passenger front. The process was simple. Disassemble surrounding intakes/wiring. Uncover spot welds. Center punch welds, drill out, and beat with hammer/sawzall until the old sheet metal was removed. A cold chisel really helped here. Grind welds flush and test assemble new parts.              Side note: I have no idea who made these rotors. It looks like someone straight up took a 3/8" end mill and ran two channels on each face. These are getting replaced. 
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Feb 25, 2015 07:33
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the spyder posted:Decided to spend the evening in the shop working on my 93 R1 that I bought with minor body damage. I've had the parts for… months. Time to get to work! If it's slotted on both sides of the rotor, it's probably there to get mud off the face of the pad.
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Feb 25, 2015 09:12
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But they are on the Rx-7...
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Feb 25, 2015 09:38
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off-road rx7
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Feb 25, 2015 10:05
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I've been in some pretty nasty mud in my Jeep and never had an issue with mud preventing braking. That's just stupid to do to brake rotors.
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Feb 25, 2015 16:07
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EightBit posted:I've been in some pretty nasty mud in my Jeep and never had an issue with mud preventing braking. That's just stupid to do to brake rotors. The latest Dirt Every Day talks about grooved rotors for sand and mud.
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Feb 26, 2015 00:03
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Well what do you know... Unistrut makes trolleys. I wonder how it compares in price to an I-beam setup. http://www.unistrut.us/DB/PDF_Archive/No_12.pdf Edit: They even make little turntables and switches. Oh wow, its like a model train set for engines / whathaveyous. http://overheadconveyorsystems.com/ Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Feb 27, 2015 |
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Feb 27, 2015 20:18
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Was out for a bike ride today and....hey, wait a minute....
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Mar 5, 2015 03:07
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It's like the tophat scene in the prestige!
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Mar 5, 2015 03:11
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I swear to god I'm not Bucephalus's parachute account.
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Mar 5, 2015 03:25
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Commodore_64 posted:Well what do you know... Unistrut makes trolleys. I wonder how it compares in price to an I-beam setup. How much are you looking to move? Last I saw the weight rating was meh. And it was super pricey.
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Mar 5, 2015 04:52
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blk posted:Was out for a bike ride today and....hey, wait a minute.... Awfully nice place for a bike ride, huh? Lots of good hills and green pastures all around. Looked it up on Strava and there are a LOT of people way better than me who ride around here. mafoose posted:How much are you looking to move? Last I saw the weight rating was meh. And it was super pricey. We'll realistically get an I beam and trolley, I just thought it was fun that Unistrut made a trolley system.
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Mar 5, 2015 19:28
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Commodore_64 posted:Awfully nice place for a bike ride, huh? Lots of good hills and green pastures all around. Looked it up on Strava and there are a LOT of people way better than me who ride around here. It was beautiful, kind of dicey getting back to town though via Stafford Rd. No shoulder plus lots of impatient commuters at 4 PM = not fun. Someone turned left in front of me when I was descending at 40+ on the other side. I need to figure out a better way to get home from that area. I used to be a big rider (did 10k miles in 2011), but fell out of it after that when I met my wife. Getting back to that level of fitness is a much bigger challenge than I thought, and it can be discouraging when there are so many good riders around here. I'm trying to get another goon out for a ride with me, would you be interested in joining? Also, I haven't followed the thread that much - are you and Spyder buds or coworkers or cohabitate or something? Looks like a nice place.
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Mar 5, 2015 20:24
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Worse- brothers.
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Mar 5, 2015 20:39
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blk posted:It was beautiful, kind of dicey getting back to town though via Stafford Rd. No shoulder plus lots of impatient commuters at 4 PM = not fun. Someone turned left in front of me when I was descending at 40+ on the other side. I need to figure out a better way to get home from that area. Yisssssss, PM sent. Also, like he said, brothers. I'm the Miata killer and he's the RX-7 haver.
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Mar 5, 2015 20:55
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Commodore_64 posted:I'm the Miata killer Filthy bastard!
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Mar 5, 2015 22:25
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ssjonizuka posted:Filthy bastard! I plan to atone for my sins by fixing the front end on my current Miata. And giving it a nice rebuilt non oil guzzling engine.
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Mar 5, 2015 22:43
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Just had a 30k 93 Touring dropped off. It's so clean.  But it's on factory 22 year old Bridgestones and he drove it here from an hour away  .
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Mar 14, 2015 00:21
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the spyder posted:Just had a 30k 93 Touring dropped off. It's so clean.
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Mar 15, 2015 18:42
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If its on factory tires you can be sure all the rubber in the engine bay is too. The fuel pulsation damper and rats nest is a time bomb. I can't imagine the risk of that 1 hr drive to both car and driver.
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Mar 15, 2015 22:24
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So, I'm laying here in bed with a twisted back and figured what the hell, let's update this thread. First up E/N: I quit my job last Friday and it was the single best thing I have done in a long time. No back story needed, it was just time to move on. I have a new job starting next week and have been using the break/unseasonably warm weather to catch up on projects. I have gotten a ton done (minus today drat it) and still have the remainder of the week/weekend to continue catching up. Next up: This minty fresh 1993 Montego Blue Touring with 30k. The owner bought it with 12k on it in 1995 and has had it garaged ever since. After going over the car, he's agreed to let us do a full service. Belts, fluids, filters, coolant, ect. It's not cheap. I think just the OEM parts are going to run $400 and the only mod we are doing is a $350 down pipe. At some point it will get a AST/Radiator, but it's so clean and stock, I'm encouraging him keep it that way as much as possible. And yes, after we are done It's getting new tires ASAP.        Now I've had this drat red S5 FC vert sitting here for… months. My buddy/shop helper was supposed to do a quick swap and flip the car. Instead it's had terrible running issues since the swap and has sat neglected slowly filling full of water from a leaky top. He yanked the seats and took care of the water/leaks as best we could. I finally had the time last week to run through some basic diagnostics. Step one was to rip the crappy alarm out that was causing a no start condition. It had managed to develop a mind of it's own and would randomly lock/unlock the doors. More annoyingly, it would kill the engine after 10 seconds of running. With this solved, I replaced the CAS/Coolant Temp sensor and got the car to run. It still had a drivability issue and would randomly toss the car into full on limp mode. We finally got the codes pulled, failed OMP or ECU. Being the idiot I am, we changed the harder to get to OMP before the ECU- guess what it ended up being. With this fixed, the car runs great and we can finally list it forsale.      I started driving the black FC and ran it's first tank of fresh gas through since 06. It passed emissions with flying colors.  But like all things that were going well, we noticed a terrible wheel-shaking vibration around 55mph. Now some if it is definitely the ~9 year old tires, but the rest was due to FINGER TIGHT wheel bearings. Someone had been in here before and not properly preloaded + backed off the bearings/nut. I snugged them up and it's 80% fixed. I have a spare set of proper-sidewall heigh 15's I plan on having installed some time this week.  Commodore hooked us up with a new toy for the shop. A proper air-drain oil/fluid fluid pan. This should make things much easier.  And I bought some lube  I also finished the temporary stairs- I say temporary, because I'm not sure if we will end up keeping them. Well, calling them stairs is a bit of a reach. More like a ships ladder. They are solid and work 10x better then the actual ladder we had. I'll add a railing this week after I fix our truck. (Starter solenoid died after… 325k)  And for some not-shop related fun- Robots! I saw these guys on kickstarter and had to have a set. I'll post more about them later, but check out https://www.meetedision.com for more details. I'm planning on doing some fun projects with my son and teaching him about basic robotics.  
the spyder fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 07:14
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Be careful with that oil drain tool. I've seen newbies in the shop blow oil all over the shop with one before. Those robots look cool as hell. Kids today are so lucky. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 16:44
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Thank you for your continued service to Rotaries. How were the vacuum lines on the '93?
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Mar 18, 2015 16:51
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That blue FD 
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Mar 18, 2015 16:54
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Montego Blue FD's are the best cars in the world - full stop. Whatever you do, do not look up how much it costs to repaint/fix/etc a Montego Blue car. It's an 8 stage paint (iirc).
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Mar 18, 2015 16:59
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Octopus Magic posted:Thank you for your continued service to Rotaries. Supple. I don't think the cars ever been driven what I would consider hard. I mean it's on stock tires, how the hell does one manage that without driving like a grandma?
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Mar 18, 2015 19:12
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Mmmmm $1279 worth of LED shop lights.
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Mar 19, 2015 05:25
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the spyder posted:Mmmmm $1279 worth of LED shop lights. $55 on Amazon with prime, and you did better than that.
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Mar 19, 2015 06:28
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Excited to hear your impressions once the LEDs are up and running. What's the lumen/watt on these compared to florescents?
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Mar 19, 2015 11:24
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Looks like those put out 3700 lumens for 38 watts. So a little over 97 per watt. The average T8 bulb puts out about 2950-3000 for 32 watts. A little under 94 per watt. A typical 4 ft fixture used in a garage will have two T8 bulbs. So a bit dimmer than a fluorescent fixture with 2 tubes if you just look at the lumen output, but since LEDs are directional, you wind up with more usable light.
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Mar 19, 2015 12:09
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the spyder posted:Mmmmm $1279 worth of LED shop lights. My father in law just did that in his shop and garage. He loves them, got em at Costco, too. El Jebus fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 17:28
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some texas redneck posted:Looks like those put out 3700 lumens for 38 watts. So a little over 97 per watt. Couldn't said it better myself. Initial impressions are that it's brighter then a standard 4ft dual tube T8 sitting 4ft away. the spyder fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 19:45
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That's why I have both a love and hate relationship with LEDs. I love them when they're in recessed lights or task lights (like a desk lamp), or when purpose-built as LED fixtures. Screw-in LEDs are hit and miss, depending on the type of fixture - the directional nature makes them unsuited for stuff like most chandeliers and table lamps, though the newest crop of bulbs are a lot better. Florescent tubes throw light out everywhere, so a lot of the light just reflects inside the fixture. They're still the cheapest way to light up an office or smaller shop, but you still have to deal with the bulbs burning out, and with newer fixtures, you get to replace the ballasts a lot more often compared to older fixtures with magnetic ballasts. Even newer CFLs seem to burn out a lot quicker than older ones - I have several that are 10+ years old and see regular use (though definitely a lot dimmer compared to when they were new), while I can't seem to get more than maybe 2 years out of newer CFLs. The ROI on LEDs is also relatively long term if you're just looking at cost vs energy use, though the reduced maintenance really helps. The widespread retail adoption of LEDs as general lighting is really helping to drive down the cost of LEDs, in my opinion - been in a 7-11 lately? They're 100% LED inside and out in most stores now. Every grocery store I've walked through in the past few years has at least replaced all of their freezer and cooler lights with LEDs, and the mega gas stations here (QuikTrip, Racetrac) have switched their spot lights to LEDs. I've switched to LEDs in the pain in the rear end fixtures in the house - more because they generally last forever (as long as they stay cool enough). Only 3 PITA bulbs to go before they're all LED, just hard to justify the cost until whatever bulb is already there burns out. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 04:54
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I started switching our house to Cree 40/60/100w LED's after my brother discovered them at Home Depot. We still have knob and tube in our main house and anything I can do to reduce the load reduces the risk of a fire. We had mostly CFL's, with a handful of incandescents in some older fixtures. Now we are 90% LED- except the barn and a few older period fixtures. The biggest thing I noticed was the color temp was much more constant then the warn out/mixed brand CFL's and the instant on nature of LED's. Eventually I will move the other buildings over- but there's more important projects this time of year.
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Mar 21, 2015 05:39
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Well, despite my back still hurting I decided to hang some fixtures to test them. They are amazing.   Started on the wood shop side.  Day.  Night. It's blinding. I can't wait to get the rest mounted and wired.  This is not a good comparison, but this is what I had before- 3x Dual Tube 4ft T8 shop lights. It's like a cave compared to the wood shop side.  There's a back story here, but we discovered some bent fins on a turbo that I was going to bolt on my track car.  Let's hope  . It was 63 and sunny out the other day. I could get used to this weather. 
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Mar 21, 2015 05:45
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If you're going to do some conduit and outlets on the ceiling for those lights do yourself a favour and get some four gang boxes instead of two. I did this in my shop and being able to reach up and plug a power tool or hand light in almost everywhere is amazing.
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Mar 21, 2015 05:52
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I was going to suggest that myself.the spyder posted:I started switching our house to Cree 40/60/100w LED's after my brother discovered them at Home Depot. We still have knob and tube in our main house and anything I can do to reduce the load reduces the risk of a fire. We had mostly CFL's, with a handful of incandescents in some older fixtures. Now we are 90% LED- except the barn and a few older period fixtures. The biggest thing I noticed was the color temp was much more constant then the warn out/mixed brand CFL's and the instant on nature of LED's. Eventually I will move the other buildings over- but there's more important projects this time of year. The worst CFLs I've ever run into in have been "floods" - we're down to 2 working and 1 dead one in the kitchen (6" recessed cans). They take a good 3 minutes to warm up, when brand new. I just wish I'd gone with screw-in replacements to begin with - to keep everything looking the same, I'll have to fork out $40/ea for 3 more (or ditch the 3 retrofits I've already installed). GE gives a 5 or 7 year warranty on the CFLs I used in the kitchen, but when you mail in a warranty claim, you get a coupon for $10 off, not the full replacement value (which has wound up being a couple of bucks more every time). Ditch that K&T wiring as soon as you can, we don't need to see the next post be "house burned down, living in the shop".
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Mar 21, 2015 19:17
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