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Get a battery while you're there. And a spend $10 on a multimeter.
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Mar 12, 2015 18:54
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Slavvy posted:Get a battery while you're there. My current battery is 8 months old.  Edit Walmart didn't carry any batteries that fit the drz. I bought a tender and multimeter though, so we will see how that goes. In the meantime I came across this post on advrider. quote:Originally Posted by markjenn Does this fix make sense? The only thing I know about electrical work is what it feels like when you gently caress up. 
Chichevache fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 19:04
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So, I've had this bike about a month and have been checking oil every week or so. Last week when I did so, I saw... nothing. Zero oil through the plastic window. The only thing that happened inbetween was the bike was knocked over overnight, so it's possible some oil may have leaked. I rode the bike maybe 30-40 miles in this state before noticing, so presumably there was at least some oil or the engine would have exploded. I added oil immediately and it seems to run fine mechanically, but: 1. The new oil turned black instantly, within a few seconds of the engine running. 2. The engine sounds/seems clunkier. Thumper, so it was never quiet, but it's definitely louder now. 3. After riding, I noticed there is smoke coming from somewhere in the engine. Any thoughts?
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Mar 12, 2015 20:21
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Are you checking the bike in the appropriate position? What bike?
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Mar 12, 2015 20:25
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Z3n posted:Are you checking the bike in the appropriate position? What bike? Level incline, after letting engine run and cool. CBR300R.
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Mar 12, 2015 20:26
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It's probably supposed to be checked upright. If you've been checking it on the side stand, you've been running it way overfull, so it's been likely burning oil like crazy/spitting it into the air box. If it was knocked over for an extended period, it could have spit a pile of it through the vents into the air box, but oil doesn't just disappear. Overfull on oil will do some weird stuff to the engine over time.
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Mar 12, 2015 20:27
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tirinal posted:
Normal. Every engine does this. tirinal posted:2. The engine sounds/seems clunkier. Thumper, so it was never quiet, but it's definitely louder now. Could you describe the noise a bit more? It could be that something has been damaged by low oil level, but if you didn't see the oil lamp it's probably fine. I know for myself, if I get the oil jitters everything does tend to sound louder and more horrible... tirinal posted:3. After riding, I noticed there is smoke coming from somewhere in the engine. Could you have spilled some oil behind the cylinder when filling? Does it smell anything?
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Mar 12, 2015 20:29
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Z3n posted:It's probably supposed to be checked upright. If you've been checking it on the side stand, you've been running it way overfull, so it's been likely burning oil like crazy/spitting it into the air box. It is, but I checked the difference when I first got the bike and I compensate. It's not much actually - this particular model has a notoriously tall sidestand. Ola posted:Normal. Every engine does this. Hmm. Alright. With synthetic oil and a new engine I didn't know how typical it would be. quote:Could you describe the noise a bit more? It could be that something has been damaged by low oil level, but if you didn't see the oil lamp it's probably fine. I know for myself, if I get the oil jitters everything does tend to sound louder and more horrible... "Clunkier" D: Every thump is louder. At idle it almost sounds like a Harley. quote:Could you have spilled some oil behind the cylinder when filling? Does it smell anything? I used a funnel, so I doubt it. I actually have almost no sense of smell, but I'll have the gf check.
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Mar 12, 2015 21:02
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Chichevache posted:Update! Tried again this morning. Bike seemed to fire for a minute before the battery gave out completely. I couldn't bumpstart it and pushing it all over the place didn't get me any charge at all, so I'm going to Walmart for the cheapest battery tender possible and hopefully they have starter fluid too. I recommend this thing for tricklecharging. http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S You can also get the quick-connectors for a few extra bucks. I put my motorcycles on the charger whenever they arent being ridden out of habit.
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Mar 12, 2015 21:04
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tirinal posted:Hmm. Alright. With synthetic oil and a new engine I didn't know how typical it would be. All it takes is a drop or two of dark oil in 100ml of a nice clean and clear solvent like xylene to turn the whole batch a lovely dark brown. The maybe 0.3qt of oil still left in your engine is -way- more than enough to contaminate the 1-2qts you use in an oil change. Don't worry about it.
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Mar 12, 2015 21:10
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Chichevache posted:My current battery is 8 months old. You need to be systematic. Charge up your battery as much as you can. Crank the bike with the multimeter hooked up across the terminals and see what the voltages are before, during and after cranking (and what it's charging at if it starts up).
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Mar 12, 2015 21:28
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Chichevache posted:Yeah, Socal. Living in the Pomona area at the moment. Balls! I have a compression tester but I'm a bit far. Get a lovely walmart multimeter while you're there. 
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Mar 12, 2015 21:30
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Currently looking at a used YBR125 with a speedo that is exclusively metric for some reason, rather than dual. Seems like it'd be a pain to deal with and a new dual speed clock set is only about fifty quid; question is a) are they hard to change, b) can I swap a metric dial for an imperial one as-is without messing with the sensor, and c) what's the legal deal with having a fresh odometer in there? Would I need to advance the mileage somehow or leave it and just note the old reading in the logbook?
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Mar 12, 2015 21:58
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tirinal posted:It is, but I checked the difference when I first got the bike and I compensate. It's not much actually - this particular model has a notoriously tall sidestand. Probably fine then - just the usual psychosomatic "oh poo poo is that a new noise"? When you feel like you've neglected your bike. Happens to us all 
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Mar 12, 2015 22:04
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tirinal posted:3. After riding, I noticed there is smoke coming from somewhere in the engine. If it got tipped over and some leaked out, it probably got on a pipe or hot engine piece somewhere.
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Mar 12, 2015 22:09
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Renaissance Robot posted:Currently looking at a used YBR125 with a speedo that is exclusively metric for some reason, rather than dual. Seems like it'd be a pain to deal with and a new dual speed clock set is only about fifty quid; question is a) are they hard to change, b) can I swap a metric dial for an imperial one as-is without messing with the sensor, and c) what's the legal deal with having a fresh odometer in there? Would I need to advance the mileage somehow or leave it and just note the old reading in the logbook? A. They are easy to change. B. Yes. C. There are companies that do a calibration service where they wind your new clock forwards to match your old one. This may or may not be necessary where you live.
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Mar 12, 2015 22:12
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clutchpuck posted:it probably got on a pipe or hot engine piece somewhere. The first time I changed the oil on my old ninja this happened and I freaked out when I saw smoke coming from under the engine.
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Mar 12, 2015 22:13
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Renaissance Robot posted:Currently looking at a used YBR125 with a speedo that is exclusively metric for some reason, rather than dual. Seems like it'd be a pain to deal with and a new dual speed clock set is only about fifty quid; question is a) are they hard to change, b) can I swap a metric dial for an imperial one as-is without messing with the sensor, and c) what's the legal deal with having a fresh odometer in there? Would I need to advance the mileage somehow or leave it and just note the old reading in the logbook? Or just do what the old grey import guys did and stick some mph stickers at the important speeds and save yourself a shitload of hassle. Legally all you need to do is have an MOT garage do the swap and send off a form that they did so, with the old mileage on it. However the next buyer of the bike will walk away when they see that if they have any sense. On that note, if I were you I'd walk on that wrong-speedo detail, because unless the PO has a *really* good excuse (and lots and lots of supporting paperwork) it just smells really suspect, and YBRs are ten-a-penny so why not get one that doesn't have that smell?
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Mar 12, 2015 23:15
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I'll have to anyway, he pulled the ad after I messaged him goddamnedtwisto posted:YBRs are ten-a-penny so why not get one that doesn't have that smell? More like ten-a-grand-and-a-bit. I'd rather have a cat d for 750ish if I can (though almost all of these are at least 80 miles away, so I may have to suck it up and adjust my budget) Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Mar 12, 2015 |
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Mar 12, 2015 23:38
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Slavvy posted:You need to be systematic. Charge up your battery as much as you can. Crank the bike with the multimeter hooked up across the terminals and see what the voltages are before, during and after cranking (and what it's charging at if it starts up). After charging the battery everything cranked and sounded great, but still no start. I'm picking up the starter fluid for a compression test right now, when I get back I'll do the multimeter tests and the compression test. nitrogen posted:I recommend this thing for tricklecharging. That's the one I just got from walmart. Unfortunately my garage (apartment complex) doesn't have an outlet, so I would have to remove the battery every single time I wanted to do that. Since I ride it practically every day that just isn't convenient for me.  Thanks for the suggestion though.
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Mar 13, 2015 00:43
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Chichevache posted:After charging the battery everything cranked and sounded great, but still no start. I'm picking up the starter fluid for a compression test right now, when I get back I'll do the multimeter tests and the compression test. Park it in your apartment.
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Mar 13, 2015 00:59
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Flikken posted:Park it in your apartment. Not everyone wants their kitchen smelling like durian.
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Mar 13, 2015 01:23
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Just tried spraying starter fluid in the air box and nothing happened. So I guess either my new spark plug is seated incorrectly or some other option I will check tomorrow morning, or I have whatever causes a lack of compression, or something, I guess. gently caress.
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Mar 13, 2015 01:38
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Chichevache posted:Just tried spraying starter fluid in the air box and nothing happened. So I guess either my new spark plug is seated incorrectly or some other option I will check tomorrow morning, or I have whatever causes a lack of compression, or something, I guess. gently caress. Did you check that the plug you're currently using will spark when held against the frame? Sometimes it feels like the boot is seated but you really have to break your hand to seat it on there when installing it.
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Mar 13, 2015 01:47
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Did you check that the plug you're currently using will spark when held against the frame? Sometimes it feels like the boot is seated but you really have to break your hand to seat it on there when installing it. I checked the corroded plug from the picture against the frame and it sparked still. My new plug was already inside the bike and I didn't feel like pulling it out and testing it against the frame after I had already installed it. The first thing I am doing tomorrow morning is pulling the new plug and making sure it isn't defective. Then, of course, I will try making sure the boot is seated properly, again. When all of these fail I will report back to find out how much horrible labor I will have to do on the carburetor. God rest my soul.
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Mar 13, 2015 01:56
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One thing at a time. 1. Check your new plug for sparking with the aforementioned test. If that checks out ok, 2. Take off your airbox and spray starter fluid directly into the carb while cranking. If that doesn't work, 3. Borrow a compression tester
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Mar 13, 2015 03:12
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Chichevache posted:I checked the corroded plug from the picture against the frame and it sparked still. My new plug was already inside the bike and I didn't feel like pulling it out and testing it against the frame after I had already installed it. The first thing I am doing tomorrow morning is pulling the new plug and making sure it isn't defective. Then, of course, I will try making sure the boot is seated properly, again. This sounds awful. Good luck!
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Mar 13, 2015 03:15
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Slavvy posted:One thing at a time. Will I have to worry about the starter spray already in the airbox or will that dissipate by tomorrow? I don't want to accidentally blow my engine up (again). builds character posted:This sounds awful. Good luck! I bought this DRZ over a Ducati M750 that was the same price because I wanted to learn how to work on motorcycles.  (If I had gotten the Ducati it would have broken too, I'm sure, I just wouldn't have been able to fix it at all)
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Mar 13, 2015 04:55
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Chichevache posted:Will I have to worry about the starter spray already in the airbox or will that dissipate by tomorrow? I don't want to accidentally blow my engine up (again). It is for sure gone by now. You can just take off the air filter if that's easier. It's a straight shot to the carb that way. You're sure you're getting gas to the carb yeah? You can check the drain screw on the float bowl. Should (try to) start with just ether but it's not a bad idea to be sure. If you're getting fuel, air and spark it's something else obviously..
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Mar 13, 2015 05:03
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On such a simple engine, if you're getting fuel, air, spark and compression the only thing it can be is something being hosed to do with the ignition timing, like a damaged flywheel (or whatever the DRZ uses for a pick-up), a bad crank position sensor or a weak coil/bad ignition lead which pass the spark test but aren't generating a fat enough spark to actually run the engine.
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Mar 13, 2015 05:24
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Chichevache posted:After charging the battery everything cranked and sounded great, but still no start. I'm picking up the starter fluid for a compression test right now, when I get back I'll do the multimeter tests and the compression test. Is there a light in your garage? If so, you can wire it for an outlet. I only bring that up because I JUST gave that same idea to another friend of mine who said the same thing in his garage.
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Mar 13, 2015 05:36
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nitrogen posted:Is there a light in your garage? If so, you can wire it for an outlet. There is a light. They cut power to it during the day. I don't know if I'd be able to leech electricity from it if I even knew how. Baller Witness Bro posted:It is for sure gone by now. You can just take off the air filter if that's easier. It's a straight shot to the carb that way. When I pulled the gas tank a ton of gas drained right out of the carb, but I will add that to my list. Thanks.
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Mar 13, 2015 07:28
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'll have to anyway, he pulled the ad after I messaged him Do not touch a Cat D write-off learner bike. Ever ever ever. In fact almost never touch a Cat D bike unless you're a mechanic yourself and have free access to serious equipment, but learner bikes are so cheap that the margin for repairs is basically zero so the absolute bare minimum will have been done to get them through the MOT and things like bent/fatigued frames and seriously hosed engines/gearboxes *will* be waiting for you.
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Mar 13, 2015 07:36
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I saw a tiny bit of surface rust on my chain that wiped off on contact today - does this mean I'm doing something wrong? How normal is chain rust? I I'm pretty good about lubing my chain regularly with DuPont non-fling Teflon chain lube but I rarely clean it.
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Mar 13, 2015 14:26
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A rolling chain gathers no rust
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Mar 13, 2015 14:52
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B-b-but, I'm in Colorado and couldn't ride my bike on ice...
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Mar 13, 2015 15:04
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Chichevache posted:There is a light. They cut power to it during the day. I don't know if I'd be able to leech electricity from it if I even knew how. This would do it: http://www.lowes.com/pd_17576-43469-6502_4294722558__?productId=3774299
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Mar 13, 2015 15:25
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This is the dumbest newbie mechanic question, I'm sure. I have a 73 Honda CB350f. Started dewinterizing last night. Front brake lever had no pressure, so I took off the brake piston assembly thing, bled the brakes and got good pressure. Out of my driveway about 100 yards down the street, I had absolutely no front brake and no pressure on the lever. Do I need new break lines? Or is it possibly a more severe issue?
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Mar 13, 2015 18:24
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Something different happened! I just tried testing the new spark plug, the one that was inside the engine, against the frame. I don't know if it sparked or not, because when I tried turning the bike on a fluid splashed onto my face from the bike. I didn't see exactly where it came from, but it smelled like gasoline and I think it came out of the spark plug hole. I haven't touched anything else yet because I had to go watch the bike bukkake off my face.nitrogen posted:This would do it: They disconnect power to the lights in the garage during daylight hours. The only way I could use that is at night.
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Mar 13, 2015 18:57
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Sounds like your needle valve or float isn't working right and the engine is flooded. Anyhow, it's one carburetor, it won't be a huge deal to clean off and fix.
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Mar 13, 2015 19:02
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