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kastein posted:More from the dana 35 chronicles It's been a long time since I've seen pictures taken with a JamCam.
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Mar 12, 2015 04:36
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Preoptopus posted:Why didnt they just cut the starter signal and make a hidden push button?! Because they already have a killswitch hello arent you listening?
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Mar 12, 2015 04:41
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Preoptopus posted:Its awkward to wrap your head around but Ooooh it's the center. Got it. Thank you.
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Mar 12, 2015 05:01
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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:Because they already have a killswitch hello arent you listening? Are you still collecting obscure head gaskets?
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Mar 12, 2015 05:02
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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:Because they already have a killswitch hello arent you listening? Im so goddamn stupid!
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Mar 12, 2015 05:27
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Plinkey posted:Right there with ya buddy. My U-Joints have always looked like this when I've changed them. How else are you supposed to know it's time to change them?
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Mar 12, 2015 21:29
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Same here. I replace em with greasables so I can keep that from happening again. Here's one I cooked in 2010. Note the bluing, heat cracking on one cap, and melted surface on the trunnions of the cross. Also the shiny spots on the outside of the yoke ears because they were riding on each other. I drove it 100 miles home at 50mph or so like that without realizing how bad it was. I knew it was hosed, which is the only reason I was doing 50 not 80... Also note the black magnetic dust stuck to the trunnions. That's what was left of the needle bearings, caps, and trunnions. It's magnetic because it was heated above the Curie point by the failure and became magnetized semipermanently by the Earth's magnetic field when it was kept in a stable orientation while cooling below the Curie point again. The Curie point for steel is 1417 degrees Fahrenheit. (1043K, 770C)
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Mar 12, 2015 21:46
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kastein posted:Same here. I replace em with greasables so I can keep that from happening again. Kastein has already seen these, but this happened to me the other day. I've been ignoring a steadily worsening vibration in my Cherokee for the last year or so, thinking I was going to sell it soon and buy another DD. Well... Don't ignore vibrations. Running late on my way to work, I dared to bring the Jeep up to 75, and this happened.   That's the center of the double cardan in my front Driveshaft, which sheared at 75mph. However, it didn't sieze or break the driveshaft, instead it ran out horribly and dented the floor in a good 1" on both sides of the tunnel. From what Kastein has told me, this is basically impossible without exploding the transfer case. However, after I pulled it out in the parking lot at work, the Jeep no longer vibrates and there's no discernible play in the front output or the front axle input. I'm a lucky bastard. The pics are after I split it by popping the u-joints out. (Which were fine)
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Mar 12, 2015 22:26
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Note to self: buy new U-joints before putting the driveshaft back in the Nova...
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Mar 12, 2015 22:31
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I wanted to put new universal joints on my van when i had the gearbox overhauled, but ran out of money. Not looking forward to it. 
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Mar 12, 2015 22:50
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Mooseykins posted:I wanted to put new universal joints on my van when i had the gearbox overhauled, but ran out of money. Its usually not bad unless they're staked in, and if they are then just loving slam your dick in the hood.
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Mar 12, 2015 22:53
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cursedshitbox posted:Its usually not bad unless they're staked in, and if they are then just loving slam your dick in the hood. I think they're just pressed in on mine. I'm sure i can drag my lazy rear end back under it to find out when the driveshaft falls out from neglect.
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Mar 12, 2015 22:56
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haha It's true. U joints are generally cheap enough, it's the labor that kills you if you have to pay someone for it. I'm sure they charge extra for each F-bomb they know they'll throw.
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Mar 12, 2015 22:56
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cursedshitbox posted:Its usually not bad unless they're staked in, and if they are then just loving slam your dick in the hood. ehhh that's easy. God I loving hate nylon-injected GM ujoints, though. So stupid.
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Mar 12, 2015 23:21
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kastein posted:ehhh that's easy. Toyota did that poo poo on my wife's '79 Celica, too. They were an absolute bear to get out using only a bench vise, albeit a beefy one.
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Mar 12, 2015 23:41
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Mr. Wiggles posted:My U-Joints have always looked like this when I've changed them. How else are you supposed to know it's time to change them? If your back end doesn't go 'womp womp womp womp' on the highway your ujoints are fine.
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Mar 12, 2015 23:54
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kastein posted:ehhh that's easy.  what the gently caress GMMMM!!
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Mar 13, 2015 00:46
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I believe the service manual recommendation for replacing those nylon injected u-joints is to heat the yoke with a torch until the nylon melts out/catches on fire, then press out the caps as normal.
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Mar 13, 2015 01:24
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Yep, torch those fuckers out. Real fun when it's a windy day and all you have is some harbor freight MAPP torch
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Mar 13, 2015 01:35
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kastein posted:ehhh that's easy. I have to look this one up. Glad mine were just bog standard units. Although if it had been a year later they would have been a part readily interchangeable with other makes / models too which would have been easier too. Just remembered when I was beating the bearing cups out of the flanges at some point the grease nipple popped out of the centre. It took a 12lb sledge and a selection of sockets for drifts to get it out, but it came out. Really not sure what the deal was with all the red rust looking dust though.
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Mar 13, 2015 02:53
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That used to be your trunnions and needle bearings  rndmnmbr posted:I believe the service manual recommendation for replacing those nylon injected u-joints is to heat the yoke with a torch until the nylon melts out/catches on fire, then press out the caps as normal. Yup, that's what I did. Not heating them before removal is asking to bend the yoke ears.
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Mar 13, 2015 03:09
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Friends wife to me - "My Jeep makes a loud noise when I put it in gear. What's wrong with it?" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNmKf-yeNmY
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Mar 13, 2015 03:11
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kastein posted:ehhh that's easy. Torch those fuckers first. All this U-jointchat brings back fond memories (and a tear in my eye) for all of the various Chrysler products I have experienced through the years. My first, a '65 Plymouth Fury, taught me when U-joint failure was starting: 1) Accelerate. 2) check the rearview mirror. 3) if everything is soft & fuzzy: time to change the U-joints. It got so I carried a spare set, a special 5/8" beater socket & ballpeen at all times. I could change those puppies out at the side of the freeway in less than half an hour. Exhibit: 
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Mar 13, 2015 04:44
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The day before my stepdad gave me his old F-150, he had the ujoints replaced. About 5 miles after I got the keys, the truck started shaking violently, then the front yoke snapped and dropped the driveshaft. I got shouted at for "racing", when it happened at 35 mph. I'm glad it didn't try to do a pole vault. That truck was a rolling mechanical failure in many, many ways, I just wish I'd kept a list of all the ways it left me stranded and how many times it got dragged home by a rope behind the F-150 he bought to replace it. The most amazing failure is the rear main seal - it literally dribbled 60W oil out while running (10w30 was like a sprinkler head), and ran dry several times, but never wound up with worse than a bit of a knock at idle. I'm amazed the engine outlasted the transmission to be honest.
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Mar 13, 2015 08:25
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some texas redneck posted:...but never wound up with worse than a bit of a knock at idle. I'm amazed the engine outlasted the transmission to be honest. My neighbour's old Holden ute is a mechanical failure in the making. It's been sounding rougher for over a year. Today I heard what I thought was someone messing around with a Hit and miss motor somewhere. Nope. It was the ute. Smoke, missing on at least one cylinder and a wonderful knock, knock, knock. He'd gun it to get it running on all cylinders and it'd settle down to it's antique tractor sounding chug of despair.
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Mar 13, 2015 13:18
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PainterofCrap posted:Torch those fuckers first. My first ride was a '79 Jeep Wagoneer QuadraTrac with a 360. That god-forsaken drivetrain used 6 standard needle bearing U-joints. You want to talk about slop.
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Mar 13, 2015 14:52
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some texas redneck posted:The day before my stepdad gave me his old F-150, he had the ujoints replaced. 300 I6?
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Mar 13, 2015 14:53
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Farking Bastage posted:My first ride was a '79 Jeep Wagoneer QuadraTrac with a 360. That god-forsaken drivetrain used 6 standard needle bearing U-joints. You want to talk about slop. Probably less than if it had giubos, at least
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Mar 13, 2015 15:48
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:300 I6? 351M. It wouldn't have been a surprise had it been the I6.
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Mar 13, 2015 16:27
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some texas redneck posted:351M. It wouldn't have been a surprise had it been the I6. Bravo to the 351 then. I think you could probably replace oil with sand in a 300 and it would just deal.
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Mar 13, 2015 16:32
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Bravo to the 351 then. I think you could probably replace oil with sand in a 300 and it would just deal. My uncle put 300k on that old Ford I-6 without an overhaul at a time where such mileage was unheard of. Those things are unbelievable. I often wonder how one would do with modern fuel delivery and valvetrain.
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Mar 13, 2015 17:26
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About a month ago, my wife comes home with the kids and says, "I hit a pothole (In the dark, at speed, on 75N) and now there's a bad rattle in the rear end of the Mazda." The next day I took it for a spin around the block, heard that, yep, there's a real bad sound coming from the passenger rear, then parked the fucker because I had neither the time, the inclination, nor the place to fix it since there was two feet of snow on the ground and it was -10f. Yesterday I finally got around to putting it on the jack, and found this bullshit -  She hit that pothole so hard that both ears of the shock mount snapped clean off. The rattling was, of course, the top of the shock rattling around inside the wheel arch. The rust isn't that bad at all, just some surface rust. The mount is otherwise solid. The bolts are gonna be a bitch, though. So now, because we have the worst roads and worst road funding in the country, I have to replace the rear shocks in the Mazda. That's pure Michigan.
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Mar 13, 2015 19:25
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:That's pure Michigan. Was not surprised.
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Mar 13, 2015 19:29
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:... both ears of the shock mount snapped clean off ... The rust isn't that bad at all, just some surface rust. The mount is otherwise solid. The bolts are gonna be a bitch, though.
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Mar 13, 2015 19:46
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I don't have much experience with deep rust, but that doesn't look like just surface rust, man.
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Mar 13, 2015 20:08
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That's totally considered surface rust in Michigan  But, yeah. The bolts and nuts are rusty as hell, but as the bolts look to be part of the car, I'm just going to have to clean them up as best I can and replace the nuts with something new. The mount is, I think aluminum and just has that dusty surface corrosion on it. Once I get it off the car I'll be able to see it better, but it looks like it just broke at the ears due to the strain and shock from hitting the pothole. I'm the shadiest of shade-tree mechanics though, so I'm probably wrong.
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Mar 13, 2015 20:26
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If those are spotwelded or pressed in studs, just yank em out and put bolts and washers through from the top. Grade 8, please. If they are MIG welded in, you can still do that, it'll just involve an angle grinder or die grinder and patience instead of 30 seconds with your largest drift punch and hammer.
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Mar 13, 2015 20:35
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kastein posted:If those are spotwelded or pressed in studs, just yank em out and put bolts and washers through from the top. Grade 8, please. That's a fantastic idea, and I'll likely do that now. And, yeah. I don't gently caress around with bolts. There's a Fastenal right up the street, so I'll hit them up.
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Mar 13, 2015 20:53
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EightBit posted:I don't have much experience with deep rust, but that doesn't look like just surface rust, man. That's just surface rust.
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Mar 13, 2015 21:05
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kastein posted:30 seconds with your largest drift punch and hammer. "I say old chap, go fetch my largest drift and the four-pound sledge. We're about to perform some rather delicate work." -Kastein's ancestor 18th-19th century.
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Mar 13, 2015 21:07
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