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I would never ever leave them alone unsupervised even for a minute. It might seem like overkill but it only takes a second for poo poo to get ugly. As for general dog reactivity, I also have a reactive dog and saw a professional trainer about it. We've seen massive amounts of improvements over the past couple months, but my dog isn't a pit so yours might take longer to see results. The way the trainer explained it to me was overriding one instinct behavior (get the thing) with another (food). We do hand touches (pretty simple, dog boops hand with nose on command, gets treat) then using the hand touch to train a heel (repeatedly ask for a touch by your side while walking) so he's laser focused on you because if he's glued to your side he gets food. Along with that we're working on improving his recall so if his attention does break I can get it back. Again my dog is not a pit so I'd still consult a trainer on your own who can see exactly how your dog reacts in different situations, but this might give you a starting point till you can get an appointment.
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Mar 12, 2015 23:47
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Holy poo poo there are a ton of really awful dog trainers in AZ, sorry dude. I've been looking and pretty much any trainer that works with aggressive dogs just slaps an ecollar on them and calls it a day. Be really careful when looking for a trainer! This guy seems not completely awful and it looks like the Arizona Humane Society does private lessons too which might be a good place to start. If they're anything like any other shelter they probably see DA pits all day every day. I would seriously crate and rotate those dogs though or the chi is gonna get eaten.
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Mar 13, 2015 00:30
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Husband and I adopted a 10 week old GSD mix who is now about 13 weeks old. We enrolled in puppy classes and have been attending for about a week and a half. They focus on positive reward based training which is what we want to do. She listens pretty well at home and we've been trying to be consistent with training, we train 2-3 times a day. She also gets fed breakfast and dinner while we play training games. The attention game is the one we're trying to focus on the most right now, making us the most important thing to her. At home she will sit at our feet and wait for treats/pets etc but as soon as we go to puppy class, she loses interest, walks like a jerk, pulls everywhere etc. We've tried upping the value of her treats when we go to class but even with hotdog pieces, she gives no shits and would rather play with other dogs than eat treats. We talked to our trainers about it and she said it will come with practice, but all the other dogs sit so nicely already while ours is a little jerk during class. I'm concerned that when she's bigger she will have the same issue and I want to get it right while she's still a pup since unwieldy adult German shepherds are not a good thing. Any suggestions? Just patience? We've tried about 4 different kinds of treats with no luck, but maybe a mix would keep her interest longer?
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Mar 13, 2015 18:47
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CarrotFlowers posted:Husband and I adopted a 10 week old GSD mix who is now about 13 weeks old. We enrolled in puppy classes and have been attending for about a week and a half. They focus on positive reward based training which is what we want to do. She listens pretty well at home and we've been trying to be consistent with training, we train 2-3 times a day. She also gets fed breakfast and dinner while we play training games. The attention game is the one we're trying to focus on the most right now, making us the most important thing to her. At home she will sit at our feet and wait for treats/pets etc but as soon as we go to puppy class, she loses interest, walks like a jerk, pulls everywhere etc. We've tried upping the value of her treats when we go to class but even with hotdog pieces, she gives no shits and would rather play with other dogs than eat treats. We talked to our trainers about it and she said it will come with practice, but all the other dogs sit so nicely already while ours is a little jerk during class. I'm concerned that when she's bigger she will have the same issue and I want to get it right while she's still a pup since unwieldy adult German shepherds are not a good thing. Any suggestions? Just patience? We've tried about 4 different kinds of treats with no luck, but maybe a mix would keep her interest longer? Training classes with other dogs can really distracting and overwhelming at times, it sounds like she's getting a little overstimulated with all the other dogs and people around. As hard as it is I would try not to compare your pup to the other dogs in class, and instead focus only on her and improvements she's made. Did she pay attention to you for a little longer than last class? Awesome! Next time aim for a little longer, etc. If you're really concerned about it, maybe look for a smaller class or private sessions and slowly introduce other dogs into the mix.
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Mar 13, 2015 19:02
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CarrotFlowers posted:Husband and I adopted a 10 week old GSD mix who is now about 13 weeks old. We enrolled in puppy classes and have been attending for about a week and a half. They focus on positive reward based training which is what we want to do. She listens pretty well at home and we've been trying to be consistent with training, we train 2-3 times a day. She also gets fed breakfast and dinner while we play training games. The attention game is the one we're trying to focus on the most right now, making us the most important thing to her. At home she will sit at our feet and wait for treats/pets etc but as soon as we go to puppy class, she loses interest, walks like a jerk, pulls everywhere etc. We've tried upping the value of her treats when we go to class but even with hotdog pieces, she gives no shits and would rather play with other dogs than eat treats. We talked to our trainers about it and she said it will come with practice, but all the other dogs sit so nicely already while ours is a little jerk during class. I'm concerned that when she's bigger she will have the same issue and I want to get it right while she's still a pup since unwieldy adult German shepherds are not a good thing. Any suggestions? Just patience? We've tried about 4 different kinds of treats with no luck, but maybe a mix would keep her interest longer? She's just a pup. Have patience. This is probably a good time to pick up and read Control Unleashed: The Puppy Program (http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=dtb1242). It's made for situations just like this.
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Mar 13, 2015 19:09
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Thanks, guys. We'll continue to work on it with incremental improvements  it's hard not to compare to other dogs, but you're right.I guess I am in a hurry to have The Perfect Dog and might screw it up by not having the patience required for that. We will continue!
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Mar 13, 2015 19:28
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From 10 weeks to ~5 months Hana was the worst dog in classes...then something switched and she became best dog to the extent that the trainers asked what I'd done (I'd been super busy and had barely done anything!). We also wanted Best Behaved Dog straight off the bat, but realized that A) It requires a lot of work! B) It still takes time. She's by no means Best Behaved Dog, but she's a nice dog (with a couple of bad habits) and we continue to work on it.
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Mar 13, 2015 20:29
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Just wait until she finally figures it out and focuses. Mine (mini schnauzer) has been in manners class and I have the opposite problem. Class is super-focused treat time where he's on his best behavior and home is "lol gently caress you I do what I want" time. You already are pretty far ahead of most people who get a dog and you sound like you'll stay on top of any issues as they come up so good work.
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Mar 14, 2015 02:09
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I've been working with my Dachshund on crate training because we just moved into a new apartment and have to get her separation anxiety under control. I used shaping and a clicker to get her used to going in and sitting in her crate, and I've worked all the way up to being able to walk out and shut the front door for a few seconds with no crying, but if I stay out any longer she goes ballistic. I tried a Kong toy with peanut butter that she loves until I leave and then she just drops it and ignores it and starts crying and drooling/foaming. It's so bad that she knocked a small tooth loose trying to bite her way out of the crate on the metal door. She does really well up until I actually leave, so how can I get her to that next step of being ok alone in her crate? Work on getting her to sleep in there? She's very well exercised (runs ~2-3 miles a day with me 5 times a week) and very well behaved otherwise, but she can't be left alone in the crate because she will literally drool herself dehydrated (I'm talking pools of thick saliva).
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Mar 14, 2015 02:52
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CarrotFlowers posted:Husband and I adopted a 10 week old GSD mix who is now about 13 weeks old. We enrolled in puppy classes and have been attending for about a week and a half. They focus on positive reward based training which is what we want to do. She listens pretty well at home and we've been trying to be consistent with training, we train 2-3 times a day. She also gets fed breakfast and dinner while we play training games. The attention game is the one we're trying to focus on the most right now, making us the most important thing to her. At home she will sit at our feet and wait for treats/pets etc but as soon as we go to puppy class, she loses interest, walks like a jerk, pulls everywhere etc. We've tried upping the value of her treats when we go to class but even with hotdog pieces, she gives no shits and would rather play with other dogs than eat treats. We talked to our trainers about it and she said it will come with practice, but all the other dogs sit so nicely already while ours is a little jerk during class. I'm concerned that when she's bigger she will have the same issue and I want to get it right while she's still a pup since unwieldy adult German shepherds are not a good thing. Any suggestions? Just patience? We've tried about 4 different kinds of treats with no luck, but maybe a mix would keep her interest longer? In my experience, very few puppies are able to focus well in training classes until they've been several times and gotten used to it. If you're not already, and she's had all her vaccinations, start doing some training outside of home and puppy class. Build her up to distractions; start off in places that are a little more distracting than home, but still a bit familiar, like the front yard. Work on the simple stuff like her name, watching you, sit, etc. Throw in exercises while you're walking her, but make sure not to push it either; if you're sitting a metre away from some other dogs and trying to get her to pay attention, that's going to be very hard for her, and she'll probably fail. Five metres away might be more successful! Above all, remember that she's only a baby still. It's a good thing that she's so keen to be around the other dogs! Socialisation is one of the most valuable parts of puppy classes. Training will come with time and practice.
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Mar 14, 2015 18:03
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Try to think of puppy class as preschool, if she learns a thing cool but it's mostly about exposing her to new people/other dogs/new situations so she can cope better when she DOES have to learn a thing in a new environment.
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Mar 15, 2015 02:28
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Yeah, that all makes sense, now that I think more about it I appreciate all the input! We've been playing attention games while my sister's dog was over this weekend, and while on walks and another dog is across the street etc, and we seem to be making some (small) progress, so we'll just keep at it!
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Mar 16, 2015 03:54
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Instant Jellyfish posted:Holy poo poo there are a ton of really awful dog trainers in AZ, sorry dude. I've been looking and pretty much any trainer that works with aggressive dogs just slaps an ecollar on them and calls it a day. Be really careful when looking for a trainer! This guy seems not completely awful and it looks like the Arizona Humane Society does private lessons too which might be a good place to start. If they're anything like any other shelter they probably see DA pits all day every day. Thanks! I sent him a message and hopefully he'll get in touch soon. The dogs are definitely going to be crated and rotated and there are no current plans for them to meet face to face. I'm just terrified that a door is going to get left open or one dog let out in the yard while the other is still there and poo poo will hit the fan. On the plus side, since my boyfriend has realized/admitted that Piper does have reactivity towards other dogs he is serious about working with her on it. Also, he talked to the roommate and told him the scoop since before they were both thinking "well, both dogs are crate trained and they'll probably be friends anyway so it will be ok". Now if things get too difficult or scary the roommate will probably look for another place to live with no hard feelings. I'm leaving town in a couple days, so I'm really hoping he continues to work with Piper on this consistently. I appreciate everyone's advice!
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Mar 16, 2015 19:38
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Cassiope posted:Thanks! I sent him a message and hopefully he'll get in touch soon. The dogs are definitely going to be crated and rotated and there are no current plans for them to meet face to face. I'm just terrified that a door is going to get left open or one dog let out in the yard while the other is still there and poo poo will hit the fan. Management, management, management should be your mantra. Your dog is not reactive per se, but I would guess probably full on DA. Given that she looks pitty, this isn't surprising. I would go with crate, rotate, and use baby gates. There is no reason a dog that size with a known history of going after other dogs should be allowed to interact with another dog that small. Sounds like you guys have this all in hand and seem to have a good grasp on handling it but there's a lot of potential for poo poo to go bad.
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Mar 17, 2015 17:36
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Yeah, I'm hoping the chi owner realizes what a bad idea this is and decides to look for another place. He wouldn't be on the hook for the rent or anything so it would be best case scenario in my opinion. Also, I need some specific advice for walks. Last night we took Piper on a walk and she's been doing great with loose leash walking in general but it goes out the window a bit (she pulls but not necessarily hard) when we see other dogs. We passed a couple of dogs. The first was a large bully breed who just stopped and stared at her from the other side of the street but was relaxed and moved along when his owner pulled him on. Piper had her tail up, ears up, hackles down, and was whining while staring at him. They were on the opposite sidewalk from us. The second dog was a small little poofball and I didn't even see it until it was directly across the street from us, it was so little I thought there were just two ladies walking and I didn't see the dog. When Piper noticed that she pulled against the leash while up on her hind legs and had hackles up and was barking and growling. For the first dog we just encouraged her to come along with us and keep walking and told her she was being good. For the second, we body blocked as well as we could and once they were a bit farther away asked her for a sit and stay and rewarded her for that before continuing walking. Obviously we need to do a better job keeping an eye out for other dogs along the path. If I had noticed them earlier I would have had Piper see them, then stand (because sit would be too hard for her right then) and stay and wait for them to pass from the opposite side of the street, giving as much distance as possible. When I'm on my bike and we see other dogs I pull over to the opposite side of the road, kneel with her on the other side of the bike, and have her stay. She usually is super focused on the dogs but if she sees them in advance she just whines and focuses on them instead of barking and lunging. Are we handling this right? Unfortunately we don't have any bombproof dogs available to work with from a distance so we're stuck with what we pass on walks for now. Is there a better approach than teaching a solid "stay" and "look at me"? Hopefully with enough work on that we'll be able to keep moving even when we see other dogs though I know it will take a long time to get there.
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Mar 17, 2015 18:33
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I have a training/new dog question, but since the dog is neither a puppy, new, and I am not new to dogs I figured this was a better place for it. Due to some issues we are now taking care of (indefinitely at this point?) a dog of my wife's family. He's going to the vet tomorrow because his hair is all matted, he's full of fleas, he's limping (looks pretty old, I'm hoping arthritis and not an actual injury or something) and supposedly he had bloody stool earlier today. The questions: I have a dog and two cats. This dog has lived with cats before, but I wanted some good suggestions on introducing them, and building trust with me and my wife. He has been growling, then bowing his head to your hand to be pet, and then occasionally pulling his lips back as you pet him, but only when he's in "his" zone, I think (ie in his old home when we picked him up, in the back of my wife's car when trying to coax him out). So: what are some safe ways to build his trust in us, because I know he would never have done that with his original owner. I think a large part of the problem is he has already been trained, and I would not be surprised if he was trained in the guard dog sense, ie be suspicious of strangers but with the ability to be friendly with them if owner says it's ok. We've visited them in years past and the dog was friendly and would do tricks for you the first time you met him. The problem is his trainer isn't here now, and I need to transition that trust. I know the basic things you do to introduce/acclimate new dogs, but have no idea if they apply in this situation with a pretrained/older dog. I would feel a lot more comfortable if this was a new dog, as I would have no question on what to do. But with this guy I am at a loss as to how to figure out his commands, as I know he was well trained; in the past he's balanced treats on his head, I've seen him do obedience type stuff, so I know it's down there. The question is will we be able to unlock it? And to clarify aggression, he hasn't once tried to actually bite or snap; just growling and the few times he bared teeth. He did a lot better just sitting on the floor, he runs right up and sticks his head into your chest for pets, so it's not that he's vicious. He just clearly feels defensive if he develops an area that he feels like is "his" it's trying to clarify his defensiveness/possessiveness and how far it actually goes. I know this is long and meandering but there's just a lot of issues all meshed together, and while I feel real comfortable if I was just training a dog it's a whole nother story getting one that is trained without anyone telling me his commands and what he's actually been taught, and making that dog mesh. My own dog I have no worries about, he's always been super social and friendly and he's exactly where I need him to be, training wise.
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Mar 18, 2015 06:34
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I'd probably cut way back on petting that dog, since they're already telling you it's too much with the growling and teeth and could escalate easily. I had a foster dog that would seemingly beg for attention but get overstimulated/nervous and snap 'out of nowhere' - although he did give pretty clear nervous body language cues. It could be insecurity/guarding, but it could also be general discomfort or pain. When he solicits attention, give a quick chin or chest scratch then move on. Most people don't read nervous body language in dogs very easily, and will do things like over-the-head petting or roughhousing with a dog they barely know. There are a lot of very tolerant dogs out there, but it's important to differentiate between resigned tolerance and true enjoyment. Engineer Lenk fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Mar 18, 2015 |
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Mar 18, 2015 07:11
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The dog will probably chill out once the mats and fleas are taken care of and he starts feeling better. He probably wants pets but then it hurts when you touch him so he's all "agh gently caress" and growls.
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Mar 19, 2015 03:26
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for now take his warning signals at face value- when he growls or shows his teeth, back off and just enjoy being near him. let him learn that you respect what he's telling you, so he knows he doesn't have to escalate to get you to listen to him saying "hey, I don't feel comfortable right now."
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Mar 19, 2015 13:44
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Hah, forgot to reply the other day. Giraffe has it on the nose, that day he was freaked out by all the people in and out of the house and he hasn't been an issue since that night. The normal stuff to introduce him to the other critters in the house went without a hitch, and our dog is socially smart enough to realize that this one just doesn't want to play and has stopped running up on him to start his most favorite game, CHASE ME. And yeah, the other night we were definitely pushing his comfort zone at first but that was because he was refusing to leave the car, and we couldn't leave him in there so I had to force him to accept enough touching to pick him up out of it. Normally I would just let the warning go and let him relax but that night it wasn't possible. Luckily since then it hasn't been an issue. We're now just trying to figure out if he's used to getting popped or just naturally shy, a few times when I walked back in after being gone he acts super cautiously, then gets pets and is ok with the world. But anyways, thanks all for reading/listening, it worked itself out with the usual feed/love them from a distance until they can at least tolerate their new environment and new friends.
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Mar 19, 2015 19:26
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Bottom Liner posted:I've been working with my Dachshund on crate training because we just moved into a new apartment and have to get her separation anxiety under control. I used shaping and a clicker to get her used to going in and sitting in her crate, and I've worked all the way up to being able to walk out and shut the front door for a few seconds with no crying, but if I stay out any longer she goes ballistic. I tried a Kong toy with peanut butter that she loves until I leave and then she just drops it and ignores it and starts crying and drooling/foaming. It's so bad that she knocked a small tooth loose trying to bite her way out of the crate on the metal door. She does really well up until I actually leave, so how can I get her to that next step of being ok alone in her crate? Work on getting her to sleep in there? She's very well exercised (runs ~2-3 miles a day with me 5 times a week) and very well behaved otherwise, but she can't be left alone in the crate because she will literally drool herself dehydrated (I'm talking pools of thick saliva). Anyone have any suggestions for this?
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Mar 19, 2015 19:35
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Bottom Liner posted:Anyone have any suggestions for this? Have you spoken to your vet about the possibility of medication? Before I had to return her to the rescue I got her from, Perfect Dog really benefited from being on medication. It brought down her ambient stress level enough to be able to learn things and for me to help her. Unfortunately, a family emergency raised it considerably and I couldn't give her the care that she needed. I wish you better luck.
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Mar 19, 2015 19:39
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I was really hoping to avoid medication and at least try training to improve her behavior, I just don't know the next step in the process here. If she can't learn I will have to turn to medication, because she can't be left in the crate right now because she could seriously hurt herself. I didn't want to medicate her because my daily routine is very erratic and I come and go a lot but don't want her to be sedated all the time because we are very active and get a lot of exercise and play time. I have a dog park not 50 ft from my door, so I know it's not a case of being cooped up that's making her behave this way, but her past before I rescued her (she was kept in a crate almost all the time).
Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 20:04
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Bottom Liner posted:I was really hoping to avoid medication and at least try training to improve her behavior, I just don't know the next step in the process here. If she can't learn I will have to turn to medication, because she can't be left in the crate right now because she could seriously hurt herself. I didn't want to medicate her because my daily routine is very erratic and I come and go a lot but don't want her to be sedated all the time because we are very active and get a lot of exercise and play time. I have a dog park not 50 ft from my door, so I know it's not a case of being cooped up that's making her behave this way, but her past before I rescued her (she was kept in a crate almost all the time). I don't know that being on medication would sedate her to the point where she would no longer want to play or have energy.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:11
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You could try an ex-pen instead of a crate for when you need her contained and restart crate training with a plastic airline-style one (start with no top or door, feed exclusively in the crate bottom).
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Mar 19, 2015 20:13
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wtftastic posted:I don't know that being on medication would sedate her to the point where she would no longer want to play or have energy. Are there any specifics ones that wouldn't? I was under the impression that they all had some form of tranquilizing effect, basically. Engineer Lenk posted:You could try an ex-pen instead of a crate for when you need her contained and restart crate training with a plastic airline-style one (start with no top or door, feed exclusively in the crate bottom). Tried all of this. I got her to the point of being comfortable in the crate with the door closed and she'll even go in it on her own to chill and cuddle in the bed in it, it's the being alone that causes her to freak out, in the crate or not. She freaks out if left in any room once we leave the house. Our other dog is always with her in a separate crate beside her and has no issues, but that doesn't console the dachshund at all.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:19
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Bottom Liner posted:Are there any specifics ones that wouldn't? I was under the impression that they all had some form of tranquilizing effect, basically. They probably do to some degree, but if its so profoundly soporific, they can change or adjust the dose. Its probably worth discussing with your vet rather than objecting to the idea out of hand. Your dog has bad separation anxiety and the longer you let it go, the worse it might get.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:23
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Oh I'm open to it if nothing else works, I'd just like to try further training and looking for suggestions on what to try next, because she's shown so much progress up to this point. She's very trainable and picks up on things very quickly, I just don't know how to train her to stay quiet and calm once I leave since I can't continue giving her clicks and rewards while I'm outside.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:33
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So is she ok in the crate with the door closed with you chilling in the same room? How about with you wandering the house doing chores? In another room still in the house?
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Mar 19, 2015 20:37
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She's ok in the same room with the crate door shut, yeah. Other rooms she will whine a little after a minute or two, and when I leave the house she loses it complete and starts yelping and howling almost immediately.
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Mar 19, 2015 20:41
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The training advice for that situation is to break down all the signs that you're leaving the house and work on them individually. Put crates in an interior room where it's not immediately evident if you're leaving the room or the house. If you leave and lock the door, work on the sound of keys in the door followed by coming back in and treating. If it's the garage door or the sound of a car, do the same thing with those. Practice intermittent in-house absences crating for a couple of hours at a stretch. When the whining for you in another room subsides and you can do a leaving ritual, hide out in the house and come back to reward about 10 minutes later without a freakout, then you can start leaving her in the crate for real.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:05
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I didn't notice a decline in energy with my dog when she was medicated. It's possible that there was one but it was incredibly minor since I can't remember any difference in activity levels. The thing about medication is that it allowed her anxiety levels to be lowered enough that I could actually get through to her and use training to have her learn something instead of panic panic panic.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:21
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If your dog is so stressed that he is literally drooling and foaming, then the amount that he is going to be able to learn just from training alone is completely minimal. I've worked with separation anxiety cases before, and almost none of the severe ones made any progress until a few weeks on fluoxitine or a similar SSRI. When a dog is stressed to that level, their brains are simply unable to learn, they just go into survival mode. If he won't eat and is drooling and vocalizing to that extent, I'm going to recommend you talk to a vet behaviorist about getting him on an SSRI and THEN working on the sep anx together. EDIT: with sep anx, odds are very good you will be able to wean him off the medication once progress is being made, but I can almost promise you that no progress will be made at all until he's got chemical support. ButWhatIf fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 21:55
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Thank you for the info, I'll speak to the vet tomorrow about that.
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Mar 19, 2015 23:04
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Self promo time again! I made a Facebook account to host training videos, trick videos and training tips. Join the page to stay in the loop. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cohen-the-Australian-Shepherd/1527626734191370 
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Apr 21, 2015 14:31
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a life less posted:Self promo time again! Thanks! Hana is finally showing interest in learning tricks, so I've been looking for inspiration. Being a Great Dane, she'll never be as agile as Cohen, though!. (And I don't think I would want her to jump on my back!!)
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Apr 27, 2015 05:39
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TRICKpix   
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Apr 29, 2015 14:52
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Fraction  Gravity? Law or suggestion? 
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Apr 29, 2015 21:35
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If you clicker train, are you forever at the mercy of the clicker? I've seen some extremely well-behaved dogs that aren't being clicked at. Same for dog shows where the dogs have to do agility courses and whatever. They're getting treats at the end but not being clicked at throughout. I don't have a dog yet but I want one and I'm trying to figure out the best options for training. Clickers seem like a wonderful tool but I wouldn't want to have to always have a clicker and always be clicking at my dog when she's a good girl. Can I do training sessions with a clicker and then expect the dog to be mostly on point without it? I'm interested in behavior training (no barking at other dogs or excessive barking in general, happy to meet other people and dogs, and obviously house breaking) and in simple "tricks" and other basic commands. Nothing crazy. edit: I dog-sat for a wonderful little mixed breed dog and it was like she completely understood anything I said to her. Her owner never did any formal training. How does that happen? I am extremely envious because she was an absolute joy to care for and deal with. She had a little harness thing and she would actually stick her legs and head through it for you. If you told her to wait or stay in natural language, she would. In the car, she wanted to sit on my lap but she would wait patiently in the passenger seat until I said it was ok, and if I wanted her to get back on the passenger seat, I could just say "go back over there" or whatever and she would. It was incredible. Maybe I should just steal that dog and stop worrying about it. sleepy gary fucked around with this message at 14:53 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 14:41
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| # ? May 15, 2024 22:53 |
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This might be anthropomorphizing but is it possible that some dogs just don't want to be trained? I have a very smart mutt from the shelter but it seems like she feels like training is an annoyance. I'll bring out some delicious freeze dried chicken and she'll be all wags but then when I say, "Sit!" she is like  . She knows sit and come so far but she really doesn't seem to enjoy either one. It's like training a cat.I feel bad putting her through a bunch of bullshit commands she doesn't enjoy but I want to train her. Her breed is really indeterminate because she's so mutty but she looks to have lab in her. Any ideas? Edit: Also, I'm clearly not an expert but I do know that you don't need to use the clicker forever. It's just to teach them what they're supposed to do more quickly since they get instant feedback. But after that, you don't have to use it. Mathematics fucked around with this message at 15:14 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 15:11
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