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If you are a cash buyer do not tell them you are a cash buyer. Agree on a price, then bring it up. Same with trades.
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Mar 13, 2015 22:24
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Dealers make money selling financing packages. They are more willing to negotiate a lower price if they think they might be able to make it up on a cherry financing deal. For new cars, factory incentives are often either cash back on a cash deal, or a promotional rate on financing, but not both. In these cases, compare the two and decide which is better for you. No matter what you do, refusing to say whether you'll finance or pay cash until the out-the-door price is settled is one tactic to dissuade a dealership from trying to pick the option that gets them the most money (out of your pocket).
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Mar 13, 2015 23:49
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Or just finance it as long as it doesn't have a early repayment clause, then pay it off immediately.
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Mar 14, 2015 02:42
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I'm in the UK. Proposed Budget: £1-2k New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 door if it isn't too much more expensive than 2, something not hideous How will you be using the car?: Daily commute ~30min, aside from that mostly city driving What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, MPG This will be my first car and it'll just be used to get around. My plan is to get something basic to drive for a few years - a reasonably cheap, reliable asset - and when the time comes to sell it I'll have more money saved for an upgrade if I want to do that. I've heard Peugeot 206 recommended as a first car by a colleague's dealer friend, and I've also heard that Japanese cars (specifically Honda and Toyota) are very reliable. I'm not broke and I'm flexible on budget if necessary, but from what I've seen looking into it a little, that seems like the a good price range; I had a look on autotrader and there are some 206s around that range with less than 50k miles. I picked 50k arbitrarily. I'm not in a rush and I'd like to learn more about cars first both for personal interest and so I know what I'm talking about. I currently know almost nothing. I've read the OP and I'm reading some stuff in AI (there's a really good used car checklist and other used car advice). Where should I start? I wouldn't mind picking up a book that gives me a good foundation so I have it all in one place, unless there's a great internet resource out there.
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Mar 14, 2015 16:13
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Went with a 2012 Prius c with only ~8,000 miles on it. Thanks, goons!
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Mar 15, 2015 00:28
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ElegantFugue posted:Went with a 2012 Prius c with only ~8,000 miles on it. Thanks, goons! What made you get a Prius C? I test drive a new C right after used 2nd generation Prius and turned around at the end of the block. I don't know how new dealers sell them when the base Prius isn't much more expensive and is so much roomier and more comfortable.
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Mar 15, 2015 04:12
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goku chewbacca posted:What made you get a Prius C? I test drive a new C right after used 2nd generation Prius and turned around at the end of the block. Well, I was coming from a 2004 Accent, so it was actually still an upgrade in terms of space.
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Mar 15, 2015 13:48
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How reliable are Hyundai's? I see them recommended a lot, but then I read horror stories about the manufacturer playing dumb whenever stuff fails on them and not honoring the warranty.
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Mar 15, 2015 14:06
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Any particular problems to look for on a 2006 Scion xB?
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Mar 17, 2015 16:58
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EugeneJ posted:How reliable are Hyundai's? http://www.truedelta.com/car-reliability-by-brand Widely variable. From not bad http://www.truedelta.com/Hyundai-Elantra/reliability-119/vs-Sonata-121 To not so good/loving awful http://www.truedelta.com/Hyundai-Accent/reliability-118/vs-Santa-Fe-120
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Mar 17, 2015 17:05
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Dr.Caligari posted:Any particular problems to look for on a 2006 Scion xB? The handle on the hatch breaks
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Mar 17, 2015 19:10
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I have more of a "is this a stupid plan" more than "which car should I buy" question. Proposed Budget: ~$40k cash and/or $200/month. (Of course, if I can get more interest on savings than what I'm paying, I'll go that route) New or Used: New Body Style: 4 door SUV or van/minivan How will you be using the car?: Daily driver (10 miles to work, mostly freeway), occasional light towing, possibly around the town sort of car, occasional 3-8h trips. What aspects are most important to you? That it's a Ford (Ford family), it fits 5+ people, then MPG (whatever car it is, it will have the Ecoboost engine), then AWD AND THEN that it's blue. NOTE: I am the only driver in the house. I have a 2002 Focus, won't be trading it in (no value, and oh hey, I'll have something to tinker on. If I can make that into a cooler daily driver, bonus!) I'm thinking of a new Ford Transit with a second row of seats in back (I think that's the 9 seat package) for when we all have to go somewhere and a newer used Fiesta/Focus for a daily driver. Is this stupid? It almost feels stupid. Should I be looking at a crossover/SUV instead? That's why the class was made, right? Or is just a minivan a better idea? Also, do dealers get that financing cash a little every month, so if I finance the whole thing and pay it off in 2 months (early termination fees taken into account, of course) they only get the money for just those 2 months or is it lump sum?
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Mar 19, 2015 04:42
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The way I understand it is that dealers may get incentivized for having you take out a loan. After that they're out of the picture. They get paid and now everything is between you and Ford Financial or whatever it's called.
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Mar 19, 2015 13:30
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Proposed Budget: $5-10k New or Used: Used Body Style: Hatch or wagon preferred, not a big deal. How will you be using the car?: Daily commute ~15min by highway, city driving, possible cross country move. What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, MPG. I'm pretty sure my current paid off car just catastrophically poo poo itself this morning on the way to work. This would also make worth jack poo poo as a trade in. It's an 02 WRX wagon worth about 5k. (150k miles) i think the break/fix/buy point is about $2000. It happened at a poor time as far as financing as i'm paying off my CC debt but can free up about $2-300 a month for a payment and reduce my debt paydown rate. So far I've found a newer (prev. car was on 02) appliance for $9000: http://www.ecarswichita.com/2008-Toyota-Camry/Used-Car/Wichita-KS/5440439/Details.aspx E: lol option if negotiated lower price: http://www.ecarswichita.com/2004-Cadillac-CTSV/Used-Car/Wichita-KS/5623670/Details.aspx Part of it depends on what the shop says killed the engine, the other part is what I can find for that price range AND a bank will back with a loan (newer is better). Edit: option 3. a coworker will sell me his known good alitma for 2500. (probably our winner) toplitzin fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 16:01
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Proposed Budget: Less than 20k, hopefully around the 15k mark. New or Used: Certified Used Body Style: 4-door crossover. We have been looking at the Chevy Equinox and Chevy Captiva Sport. My husband wants to get a Chevy/GMC vehicle but I want to keep an open mind. It'll take a lot of convincing to make him amenable to the idea of getting a non-domestic vehicle but since I'll be the one driving it 80% of the time, I think he'll take my wishes into consideration. How will you be using the car?: Just as an everyday driver, to and from work or wherever. We plan on towing very small loads very occasionally with it, mainly a small cargo trailer with some camping supplies in it. It shouldn't be more than 1500lbs, 2000 tops. We plan on having a kid in the next 3 years or so. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Nah. A reverse camera would be nice, though. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, safety, MPG. We already have a 2012 Chevy Sonic and we will not be trading it in. We also have a 1992 GMC Yukon that has no trade-in value so we'll probably just try to CL it for like two grand or best offer. It's actually in really good shape but the MPG blows so much that it would suck as an everyday driver, which is what I need. ALTERNATIVELY... We could get another car, maybe one that's a little beefier than the Sonic--something like an Impala or even a Malibu--and we'll keep the old clunker until it finally dies because we literally use is only four times a year when we have to tow the cargo trailer or haul a lot of stuff. Then when it dies we'll get another old clunker of a truck for dirt cheap to use four times a year. Pixelated Dragon fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 18:22
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Fire Storm posted:I have more of a "is this a stupid plan" more than "which car should I buy" question. Unless you are driving a shitload of miles and the extra 3mpg is going to be a big deal, I really don't see the appeal of the TC over a Chrysler minivan, since the minivan is a cheaper vehicle new and superior in every way that I can tell. I admit I haven't driven the TC so maybe someone else can chime in more but isn't it just a Ford Focus with leaf springs in the back? Pixelated Dragon posted:Proposed Budget: Why do you need another car? Can you not fit your current family in the Sonic?
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Mar 19, 2015 19:26
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Throatwarbler posted:Why do you need another car? Can you not fit your current family in the Sonic? That's not really the immediate issue right now. My husband uses the Sonic every day to commute to and from work. The '92 Yukon's MPG blows so much that I need another car. If he were to take the Yukon to and from work every day and leave me with the Sonic then the problem would remain. Honestly, if we get a crossover then I'll probably take the Sonic and let him use the crossover because I like small, maneuverable cars. Pixelated Dragon fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Mar 19, 2015 |
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Mar 19, 2015 20:47
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Pixelated Dragon posted:
Get a small econobox and use your Yukon for camping trips. Anything else is stupid.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:18
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Pixelated Dragon posted:That's not really the immediate issue right now. You can buy a poo poo ton of gas at $3 a gallon for the price of a car payment. Even at 13 MPG buying another car won't save you money. Save your money drive the Yukon till it dies, or till you have kid.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:19
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Fire Storm posted:Also, do dealers get that financing cash a little every month, so if I finance the whole thing and pay it off in 2 months (early termination fees taken into account, of course) they only get the money for just those 2 months or is it lump sum? They get it monthly. My wife works at a financial institution that does a huge amount of car loans. The end user can't see it, but if she looks at the loan it breaks down to -principal -interest -dealer commission (or whatever it's called). On a 550 a month payment it might break down to 500/35/15, but that's 15 bucks a month in residual income for the next 60 months. I'm sure it adds up.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:32
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skipdogg posted:They get it monthly. My wife works at a financial institution that does a huge amount of car loans. The end user can't see it, but if she looks at the loan it breaks down to So basically I was 100% wrong above.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:36
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I'm looking into getting a new GTI pretty soon and in doing some homework, it looks like VW has a *tiny* markup from invoice on the car which is going to leave me hardly any wiggle room to negotiate. Difference of $1600 on a ~34000 car seems really low, yea? Looks like the sticker price isn't far off from what I'll have to pay for it.
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Mar 20, 2015 11:47
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There may be dealer incentives in play that would allow you to negotiate a price below invoice. If you know exactly what you want your best bet is to reach out to multiple dealers, let them know that you're shopping around, and request their OTD price. See if you can contact the internet / fleet salesperson.
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Mar 20, 2015 15:18
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Easychair Bootson posted:There may be dealer incentives in play that would allow you to negotiate a price below invoice. If you know exactly what you want your best bet is to reach out to multiple dealers, let them know that you're shopping around, and request their OTD price. See if you can contact the internet / fleet salesperson. This is excellent advice, except I checked every dealership within 150 miles and they don't have the model I want  My local dealer is getting the exact car I want so it looks like I'm a little stuck there.
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Mar 20, 2015 15:54
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Thinking seriously of puling the trigger on a 08 Cayman S, choosing between two: 22k miles for 35k from Car Max (I mention because no haggling) from Irving, TX 60k miles for 32k from a local dealer (CA) Both single owner cars, clean Car Faxes. My question (besides sanity check on those prices) is are there any issues with buying cars from TX? Also nervous because I'd be buying it sight unseen but I have 5 days to get a PPI and return if I wish Don't see why there would be rust issues out there but I have lived in CA my whole life, where well maintained cars can live near forever... From browsing for months it seems the TX one will go quick so please let me know before someone steals my dream car from me TIA
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Mar 20, 2015 18:59
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You'll have no issues regarding rust or anything like that from a car from the Dallas area. Jump on it, and for maximum Jalopnik points get the extended warranty from CarMax for when expensive Porsche things break.
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Mar 20, 2015 19:06
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skipdogg posted:You'll have no issues regarding rust or anything like that from a car from the Dallas area. Jump on it, and for maximum Jalopnik points get the extended warranty from CarMax for when expensive Porsche things break. Agreed. They fixed the IMS issue in 2009, so I'd want a long rear end warranty on my 2008. OP, I assume you know of IMS? If not, google (or just get a long warranty). Note that any other warranty will not sub for a carmax warranty. Carmax pays for everything but a couple things on a list without issue. Other extended warranties are run by scumbags. nm fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 19:17
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Yeah, aware of IMS (actually posted as a response to my initial questions when I started looking months ago.) Unfortunately MY09 981's are so rare, I could count on one hand ones I saw in half a year or so of looking. It also hurt that my cash budget priced me out of 981 S, so I was looking exclusively at stock in that generation. And yeah I was looking at Car Max for the warranty, also got there from that Jalopnik article. Thanks very much for the quick advice guys, trying to get it locked down now. 
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Mar 20, 2015 19:44
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The stickshift on my piece of crap focus broke and the speedometer/odometer haven't worked for years so I think it's time to buy something to get me to work. My girlfriend has a pretty new car so that would be what we use for any major trips, so I just need something with minimal frills that will be a good value. I was leaning towards a honda Civic or Fit just based on reviews but can't seem to find anything in my price range that doesn't have less than 70k miles on it. Maybe I shouldn't worry too much about that many miles if it's certified? I don't know, fill me in! I'm an idiot! Proposed Budget: Ideally $10k or less, 12-13K at the highest New or Used: used Body Style: 4 door sedan, or something smaller if it's cheaper How will you be using the car?: Just driving myself to work and back, 7 miles each way. Rarely would I need to drive more than 15 miles in a given day. What aspects are most important to you? sturdiness/reliability and price. I'm really just trying to find a sweet spot between price and mileage. I'm not really sure how many miles I should consider to be too many. I've mostly been looking at anything with less than 50k miles on it. I mostly just don't want to have any major repairs for hopefully a year or so. If I could find something for around $10k and have it last me for about 6 years with just the usual repairs I think I'd be pretty content.
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Mar 20, 2015 20:27
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70k on a modern honda is break in miles Certified, with the exception of dome lux brands, is basically a scam. If you like stick shifts, the mazda 2 is a steal and should come way under budget. If you're in CA, you can lease a 500e for under 100 per mo with just the tax refund down (2500, then you get it rebated by the state), which with your small use might work. Or just buy a gen 2 (2004-2009) prius.
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Mar 20, 2015 21:09
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Jaypeeh posted:Proposed Budget: Ideally $10k or less, 12-13K at the highest You can get a pretty new Mazda 3 manual for around that.
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Mar 20, 2015 21:14
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So I may be on the verge of getting that Focus for a decent deal. I just talked to a dealer and he couldn't immediately find one that appealed to me - and although I mentioned possibly being interested in a Fusion, he didn't try to upsell me to get a quick sale. I'd looked at a couple printoffs of a pair of '14s, but they had a sunroof and I'm not a fan of those. He just called me and mentioned one like I wanted - a 2015, manual hatchback, no sunroof, with the 201A package - for $21,780 MSRP and an asking price a little over $18,000. I might just have to bite on that. edit: just texted me that the 18,000 wasn't the car he thought it was, called it 19,800 on the right one. TrueCar says 19,500 is about right so I'm gonna see if I can't make that OTD. Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 22:06
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Pure curiosity, why do you hate sunroofs? You can slide the inner cover closed and it's exactly the same as not having one, to me. I never use mine but I don't really notice that it exists either.
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Mar 21, 2015 00:02
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IRQ posted:Pure curiosity, why do you hate sunroofs? You can slide the inner cover closed and it's exactly the same as not having one, to me. I never use mine but I don't really notice that it exists either. The best I could do is an offer of $19,799 on a 2015 Focus SE hatchback with the 201A package and no other options, before documents ($369) and taxes ($816), and they had to get it from another dealer so the car won't be there til Monday or Tuesday. The salesfuck said that since the car was hard to find, I coulda done better if it was an automatic, or a 2014 model with a sunroof (he showed me a couple printoffs of these, but I want metal over me) , so for $20,984 all said and done on an invoice of $20,649 and MSRP of 21,780, am I right in thinking that's not too shabby? Plus it's a brand new updated model year so that adds some value. fake edit: They let me drive a 2014 Focus SE 200A with a manual (white, yuck) and having never driven a manual other than a 4.0 Jeep Wrangler... sooo loving easy. The relative lack of torque versus the smoother clutch made it about the same as far as bogging down without hitting the gas. I just took it around the block real quick, and traffic was pretty heavy so I just tapped 4th once or twice and never got to 5th so I don't know what highway power will be like. Friar Zucchini fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 01:41
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Sunroofs generally don't leak, that was a solved problem by about 1985.
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Mar 21, 2015 02:08
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Friar Zucchini posted:In terms of a new car, just an extra feature that I'll never use and is a waste of money. In terms of actual owning a car, it'll deteriorate over time and leak, takes away some head room, and adds complexity to the wiring and structure, for something that, again, I'll never use. I don't like wind and I don't like the sun, is about it. They don't leak, at all. And they don't deteriorate over time any more than the other windows of the car do, which is to say not at all. They don't take any headroom, as cars are now built with them included as a standard feature (have been for a long time), and if that basic wiring is causing you problems you have a lot more to worry about with the car. They also all have an inner cover that blocks out the dreaded sky orb entirely like a full roof would To be honest I think you're adding money seeking out a car without a sunroof rather than saving since they are basically standard now on the class of car you're looking at - it's like looking for a car with roll up windows and no electric locks and no a/c or power steering in 2015. Who even makes that? I bet if you look at what you want with/without a sunroof you'd do better just shutting the inner bit and ignoring it. But ultimately you get what you want, that's what it's all about.
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Mar 21, 2015 05:45
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IRQ posted:They don't leak, at all. And they don't deteriorate over time any more than the other windows of the car do, which is to say not at all. They don't take any headroom, as cars are now built with them included as a standard feature (have been for a long time), and if that basic wiring is causing you problems you have a lot more to worry about with the car. They also all have an inner cover that blocks out the dreaded sky orb entirely like a full roof would To be honest I think you're adding money seeking out a car without a sunroof rather than saving since they are basically standard now on the class of car you're looking at - it's like looking for a car with roll up windows and no electric locks and no a/c or power steering in 2015. Who even makes that? Models with sunroofs do have less head room than non-sunroof models though, especially panoramic sunroofs that go all the way to the back. Also on some cars e.g. E90 M3 you can't get the carbon fibre roof with the sunroof. I hate them and would also try my hardest to get a car without them.
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Mar 21, 2015 05:56
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Jaypeeh posted:The stickshift on my piece of crap focus broke and the speedometer/odometer haven't worked for years so I think it's time to buy something to get me to work. My girlfriend has a pretty new car so that would be what we use for any major trips, so I just need something with minimal frills that will be a good value. I was leaning towards a honda Civic or Fit just based on reviews but can't seem to find anything in my price range that doesn't have less than 70k miles on it. Maybe I shouldn't worry too much about that many miles if it's certified? I don't know, fill me in! I'm an idiot! So is the transmission broken or just the shift mechanism? If its the latter then just fix it and keep driving the Focus.
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Mar 21, 2015 07:01
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Throatwarbler posted:So is the transmission broken or just the shift mechanism? If its the latter then just fix it and keep driving the Focus. I think it's just the shift mechanism, linkage cable or something. I've been back and forth on fixing it. I leaned towards not fixing it because of issues like the odometer and speedometer not working, a flat tire and a nearly bald tire or two, and the check engine light has been on for a while.. Basically I've been waiting for it to die and figured this might be dead enough.. But I'm still considering getting it fixed, if only to buy me some time to save up for something else.. Meh, I don't know. Maybe I'll fix it. Thanks.
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Mar 21, 2015 07:50
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It is likely that everything wrong with your car can be fixed by you in your driveway for a fraction what it would cost at a shop.
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Mar 21, 2015 21:19
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