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Cojawfee posted:I guess you can ask him what kind of bike or snow board he puts on that rack. If he says none, you'll have an idea that he's more of a bro than a car guy. Going by the stickers on the wind deflector, i'd say the roof racks are for looks and not for use.
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 18:06 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 11:58 |
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Cojawfee posted:I guess you can ask him what kind of bike or snow board he puts on that rack. If he says none, you'll have an idea that he's more of a bro than a car guy. I do find it kind of funny that the car has been dynamatted to quiet it down (which I would take out) and has a huge wind-noise adding rack instead.
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 18:07 |
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blk posted:I do find it kind of funny that the car has been dynamatted to quiet it down (which I would take out) and has a huge wind-noise adding rack instead. The roof rack doesn't add a ton of noise. I have one and don't keep it on my 318, but they're not super loud. Just look the thing over for rust and leaks and drive it home. M42's are pretty stout, mine had a noisy chain at startup that was fixed via chain tensioner. Otherwise mine just leaks a little oil and as always power steering fluid. The 318 seems to be louder inside than my 325. Oh and there is a plastic coolant passage underneath the intake that will break and let all the coolant out. But you know, GDCS.
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 18:11 |
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I don't think PPI is dumb if you can't be hosed to drive 3 hours to see a car that, since it's on CL, the seller may be failing to disclose something glaringly obvious, like it's on fire, stolen, doesn't actually run etc. But as a former E30 -is owner, I do agree the things you are looking for are pretty basic - if you have a buddy in the area to take it for a PPI he/she can probably check the three or four things that might be deal killers. Rust, profile gasket failure (if it's running at 175k miles, this probably isn't an issue), all bushings including RTABs being completely hosed, chassis bent like a pretzel and 50% bondo etc. They are simple cars and I can't think of anything off the top of my head other than profile gasket failure or a serious unibody issue that would make you want to walk away. e: bonus twist someone has swapped in an M43 because they blew up the M42 and couldn't find another one. Saga fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Mar 18, 2015 |
# ? Mar 18, 2015 18:23 |
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blk posted:I do find it kind of funny that the car has been dynamatted to quiet it down (which I would take out) and has a huge wind-noise adding rack instead. No, you won't. Removing OEM tar is bad enough, that stuff is even worse.
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 18:28 |
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Lightbulb Out posted:The 318 seems to be louder inside than my 325. The 318iS came from the factory with less sound deadening material
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 18:39 |
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BraveUlysses posted:No, you won't. Removing OEM tar is bad enough, that stuff is even worse. I've heard of doing it with a hair dryer and putty knife - no go? I wonder how much weight it adds to the car here.
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 19:00 |
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blk posted:I've heard of doing it with a hair dryer and putty knife - no go? I wonder how much weight it adds to the car here. I always did it with a blowtorch and a striking scraper.
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 19:10 |
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I used dry ice and a hammer on my old 240sx. Don't do it unless it's a straight track car, the E30 is already loud inside compared to modern cars... even more-so when you move to poly/delrin bushings. A 318iS with a stock motor, coilovers, all of the bushings replaced, decent tires, etc is more than fun as a daily driver. It pisses me off how smooth I was in the E30 compared to the E90. Oh well, just gotta find a tow hitch for my Ducati and deal with it. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Mar 18, 2015 |
# ? Mar 18, 2015 19:19 |
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BlackMK4 posted:I used dry ice and a hammer on my old 240sx. Don't do it unless it's a straight track car, the E30 is already loud inside compared to modern cars... even more-so when you move to poly/delrin bushings. A 318iS with a stock motor, coilovers, all of the bushings replaced, decent tires, etc is more than fun as a daily driver. Yeah, the E30s are noticeably loud by modern standards, I'd leave it in. To give you some idea, I switched from mine to an Impreza classic and was amazed by the quiet and lack of NVH.
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# ? Mar 18, 2015 20:05 |
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Found someone more knowledgeable to look at the car and they told me I was too old for an E30. I'm not sure what the appropriate SA smiley is for this situation.
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 03:00 |
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That person is an idiot.
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 03:07 |
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You need to buy an E30 because it's da bes http://youtu.be/ZVUyyHYkBHk
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 03:16 |
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I'm seriously starting to wonder how much E30 i could trade the 540i for. It's a nice car, but I literally never drive it, it's so big, and we have a goofy little subaru now for roadtrips and poo poo.
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 04:01 |
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Heard from the machine shop that has my E36 head. They found a leak during the pressure test. Waiting to hear from the guy that actually did the work if it's something they can fix, or if I need to starting looking for a new one. On the plus side, I think I'm running out of things that can go wrong with this car. Someday I'll actually get to drive it. Maybe...
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 14:55 |
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Somewhat Heroic posted:In today's issue of "Noises that my E36 is making today" I am having a strange noise that seems to be coming from the left front of the car. It almost sounds like if a plastic fender liner was getting pulled by a tire and then "cracking" back into place but it is proving difficult to nail down what causes the sound to happen. Paging RevMoo & E36 crew, plus quoting myself to get a little more clarity on this. So this is not anything wheel bearing related. I think it has something to do with the transmission with the input shaft/guide tubes. So if I decelerate quickly (not even a panic stop) I will get the clicking/ticking sound at idle or at speed, in gear or out of gear. Late last year one of my clutch cylinders died leaving my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I had a local shop that is regarded well within the BMW community replace both master and slave cylinders as well as the hose with a stainless line. The clutch was about worn out so I had them do the entire clutch stuff while they were in there (disc/plate/throwout, etc). This thing was sheared in two when they took it apart: The clutch needs to be bled again because I definitely have air bubbles. I have to hold my clutch in for ~3 seconds before sliding into first gear or it grinds. The shop said they would bleed it again but I just haven't taken it to them because they are about 25 miles on the other side of the city and Could it just be that the clutch needs to be bled again, or is something frigged up? Am I going to shear off my guide tube for my throw out bearing or something? Is it possible that something catastrophic has happened like the clutch disc separating? I took it easy for ~1500 miles to let the clutch seat in and there is no slipping at all. I am just stumped and I would like to be able to drive my car at 10/10 and not be worried about the trans/clutch detonating. I can try to take some video to record sound if that would be helpful.
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 17:54 |
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:Heard from the machine shop that has my E36 head. They found a leak during the pressure test. Waiting to hear from the guy that actually did the work if it's something they can fix, or if I need to starting looking for a new one. From speaking to my local machine shop BMW straight sixes are bad for cracking cooling passages in heads, and they (usually) can't be fixed. Although i have heard of them getting some ceramic coating in the cooling passages to seal them up.
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 18:38 |
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Mooseykins posted:From speaking to my local machine shop BMW straight sixes are bad for cracking cooling passages in heads, and they (usually) can't be fixed. Although i have heard of them getting some ceramic coating in the cooling passages to seal them up. That's a bummer. It had some overheating issues, so that type of thing wouldn't shock me. Hopefully I'll hear back from them today. If it's dead, am I better off rolling the dice on a used one from bf.com, or do something stupid like this thing from VAC? http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac---s50--s52-us-reconditioned-cylinder-head-p1315.aspx Dropping that on a head seems crazy, but I'd hate to get a used one from some dude, send it to the machine shop and have them find more problems. At this point I'm anyway, so I just want to make this (piece of poo poo) reliable.
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 19:32 |
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You can get a whole s52 motor for as much as they want for that head plus the core charge
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 21:44 |
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rscott posted:You can get a whole s52 motor for as much as they want for that head plus the core charge Where?
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 21:51 |
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revmoo posted:Where? Europe?
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 21:59 |
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They're not common for 1500 but 2k is fairly common. there's no way i'd pay that much for a reworked head
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# ? Mar 19, 2015 22:25 |
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:That's a bummer. It had some overheating issues, so that type of thing wouldn't shock me. Hopefully I'll hear back from them today. A friend used hwww.autoheadperformance.com with good results. A local shop may be able to do it cheaper, if you have local BMW racers ask where they get work done. Personally I'd swap the motor before I did a head though, but I don't have any of the tools required for re-assembly and timing.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 01:46 |
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rscott posted:You can get a whole s52 motor for as much as they want for that head plus the core charge M52, yeah. An M52 head is the same as the S52 head anyway, just swap your poo poo over.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 02:27 |
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Nobody can look at the E30 for me after all. I'm going to see it on Monday or Tuesday; hope it's still around by then. The ad he already been up for over a week
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 02:33 |
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My 2011 750li has a weird trunk problem. Neither key fob will open the trunk now. I can use the release on the outside of the trunk to open it, and I can also use the release in the cabin as well. Just not the trunk button on either key fob. Anything I can try before I take it in to have someone look at it? The car is not giving be a low battery merge for the key.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 02:46 |
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blk posted:Nobody can look at the E30 for me after all. I'm going to see it on Monday or Tuesday; hope it's still around by then. The ad he already been up for over a week These things don't sell that quickly unless the price is really low for what you're getting or it's set up well suspension/wheel wise and clean. The E30 community is generally poor.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 02:47 |
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protmind posted:My 2011 750li has a weird trunk problem. Neither key fob will open the trunk now. I can use the release on the outside of the trunk to open it, and I can also use the release in the cabin as well. Just not the trunk button on either key fob. Anything I can try before I take it in to have someone look at it? The car is not giving be a low battery merge for the key. Sounds like the button on the fob is toast. Edit: never mind I read this wrong. Let me dig into wiring diagrams and see. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Mar 20, 2015 |
# ? Mar 20, 2015 03:47 |
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protmind posted:My 2011 750li has a weird trunk problem. Neither key fob will open the trunk now. I can use the release on the outside of the trunk to open it, and I can also use the release in the cabin as well. Just not the trunk button on either key fob. Anything I can try before I take it in to have someone look at it? The car is not giving be a low battery merge for the key. It's just out of warranty isn't it? My guess word be that a different relay is used from the remote fob receiver and the actual trunk lid button, and something went foo bar with the link between the fob receiver and the trunk mechanism. Given the location all this stuff is buried inside the vehicle maybe $700 to tear apart and fix. Edit: that or your preference for what the button does is changed. Check the menu for a setting related to what that button actually does on the fobs. iDrive, then vehicle settings maybe?
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 04:13 |
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In my attempt to try and sort out this noise I thought I wouldd give my oil level a check and sure enough it was low and needed some added. I topped it off and took it for a drive. After things were warmed up enough I went for it again. All I can think of is maybe it sounds like gravel bouncing around a place it shouldn't. Is it possible it could be VANOS going out? I tried to find a good YouTube video but the sound isn't consistent with what I see described on videos of RPM specific. This happens mostly if I was braking harder than a normal stop, It also has happened (though not every time) if I run through the first 3-4 gears at WOT shifting at ~6000 RPM. I will see if I can get a video because this is giving me anxiety about my car.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 06:08 |
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http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4939740649.html Someone buy this before I think too hard about it myself.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 17:52 |
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I wish people posted real prices.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 17:54 |
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I always wanted to get a brigade of people together to call and bother people who list Craigslist cars at one dollar.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 17:55 |
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Looks like someone expects e30 money
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 18:05 |
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concise posted:http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4939740649.html IDK it's one of a hundred thousand black on black 540i's , not exactly rare or special based on such a lovely low effort craigslist post.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 18:10 |
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NO OIL LEAKS means it 110% has a coolant leak, i'm sure valley pan is going
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 19:02 |
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Somewhat Heroic posted:In my attempt to try and sort out this noise I thought I wouldd give my oil level a check and sure enough it was low and needed some added. I topped it off and took it for a drive. After things were warmed up enough I went for it again. All I can think of is maybe it sounds like gravel bouncing around a place it shouldn't. Is it possible it could be VANOS going out? I tried to find a good YouTube video but the sound isn't consistent with what I see described on videos of RPM specific. This happens mostly if I was braking harder than a normal stop, It also has happened (though not every time) if I run through the first 3-4 gears at WOT shifting at ~6000 RPM. I will see if I can get a video because this is giving me anxiety about my car. Generally the VANOS going is described as a coffee can and rocks sort of sound.
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# ? Mar 21, 2015 14:00 |
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Anyone done the Car Control Clinic at the Ultimate Driving Event? Thinking about signing up for the one in DC at the beginning of June.
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# ? Mar 21, 2015 22:07 |
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What were the different seat options in non-M3 E30s? How much would I expect to pay for one or both fronts in good shape? Are door cards, handles and other interior trim easy to get a hold of? (if I pick up that 318 next week I'd probably leave it in its current state, but just in case perfectionism gets the best of me)
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# ? Mar 21, 2015 23:04 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 11:58 |
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blk posted:What were the different seat options in non-M3 E30s? How much would I expect to pay for one or both fronts in good shape? Are door cards, handles and other interior trim easy to get a hold of? E30's came with sport in the 325/318is and comfort seats in the non-sport cars. Leather and cloth. I've seen good condition fronts (sport leather) go for $2-300. Decent overview - http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Seats Door cards, handles and everything are generally easy to find and track down for pretty cheap.
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# ? Mar 21, 2015 23:29 |