|
Crossposting my oath:  
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 21:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 04:23 |
|
|
I don't think I've seen a red dragon with sedate colors on parts of its body like that before. It's a really nice effect. Almost like he's wearing khaki gators and his wing membranes are stained with ash and smoke.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 21:38
|
|
|
Sometimes I think i might have a chance at winning a painting award and then I see things like this and go back to my hovel. Crystal Brush's 2015 winner.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 21:43
|
|
|
Daniel Craig looks bored even as a Space Marine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 21:45
|
|
|
TheCosmicMuffet posted:I don't think I've seen a red dragon with sedate colors on parts of its body like that before. It's a really nice effect. Almost like he's wearing khaki gators and his wing membranes are stained with ash and smoke. The inspiration was the artwork/description from the 3.0 Monster Manual. I can't scan it and this is the only picture I can find of it on GIS:  Since the sculpt obviously isn't a faithful reproduction of that style of red dragon, I had to adapt some stuff. For example, the way the mini was sculpted made it seem more natural to have the underbelly color flow down onto the limbs, so that's why that's different. Brother-Captain Danielus Craigus
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 21:48
|
|
|
What scale is Captain Bond? 72mm?
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 21:55
|
|
|
I think so. It won the large scale award and best in show.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 21:57
|
|
|
It's way bigger than 72mm. It's like 9 inches tall. The dwarf bust I entered and posted earlier in the thread didn't even make the first cut. Large Figure/Bust is a murderers row.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 22:18
|
|
|
That Crimson Fist doesn't look very Hispanic 
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 22:19
|
|
|
So 1/6th scale like a GI Joe? It doesn't seem as impressive then. It almost feels like it should be in a different competition.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 22:43
|
|
|
I thought that was gonna be 54mm or something. If its really 10 inches tall it shouldnt be in a miniature competition.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 22:45
|
|
|
It's 150mm. Honestly shouldn't've won over Ben Komets's diorama that's in second. Too much GW/overwhelming freehand bias there. e: And it's in the large scale category, which is where it belongs.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2015 22:50
|
|
|
PRESIDENT GOKU posted:If I over primed my hams, can I dump them in a bucket of simple green and get the spray paint primer off? How should I dilute the simple green? Will I simply dissolve my hams? No need to dilute the Simple Green at all, raw dog those models right into the bottle. Pour it over yourself. I'm pretty sure I've tested resin, too, in there and nothing was harmed.  
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 00:02
|
|
|
Ok so 6 inches. But it's also on like a 1-2 inch base. I agree it shouldn't have won but it's an amazing piece. The Internet voting not having scale shown means that lots of people probably voted for it thinking it was 54mm and rightfully so, at 54mm that would be the best model ever. Edit: I think I'm not cut out for competition painting. I was really proud of that dwarf but seeing the caliber f stuff entered and not even making the first "weed out the tabletop standard gamers" cut makes me embarassed I even entered. I feel like a kid entering his crayon drawings. JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Mar 23, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 00:06
|
|
|
So while I wait for the mounting lug for my Thunderbolt to and my last five Scions to get in, I've been filling a few gaps in my rank and file Valhallans. I dug up this autocannon squad and painted them up this weekend:      
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 00:36
|
|
|
Post 9-11 User posted:No need to dilute the Simple Green at all, raw dog those models right into the bottle. Pour it over yourself. I got a Mason jar, filled it half way with PURPLE POWER, and raw dogged my hams in that poo poo. The primer on the bases came off in about 5 minutes, but I think the stuff on the hams themselves is being a bit more stubborn. I"ll let it sit in there until my paints get here, then take an old toothbrush to them.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 00:38
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:Edit: I think I'm not cut out for competition painting. I was really proud of that dwarf but seeing the caliber f stuff entered and not even making the first "weed out the tabletop standard gamers" cut makes me embarassed I even entered. I feel like a kid entering his crayon drawings. Consider it a learning experience, if a humbling one. Don't let your first competition get you down; take that embarrassing feeling and use it as fuel to get better.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 01:10
|
|
|
Zark the Damned posted:Chaos Cultists should do the part if you remove the stars. http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Chaos-Space-Marines-Cultists - they have an 'underground scavvy' look to them. Thanks those are totally perfect! Might actually get this poo poo done now! ro5s posted:Necromunda gangers, if you can get them from ebay cheaply. Otherwise, probably anything 28mm punk-ish would look about right. What codex(es) are you planning on using? Yeah, I've had bad luck finding Necromunda stuff so far. I'm not going to really be using any codex, I'm making them for a Dark Heresy game I'm running as part of my old-times-old-crimes warhammer buddy's bachelor party.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 02:18
|
|
|
Super Waffle posted:Does anyone have experience or a tutorial for recasting parts in clear resin? What did you want to know?
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 02:54
|
|
|
If I were to use acrylic medium and distilled water to thin my paints what's a suggested ratio?
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 03:11
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:What did you want to know? What kind of mold material works, and wheres a good place to get it? I want to recast some warjack heads so I can put an LED behind them. I'm seeing some silicone mold putties available at Micheal's but I would think a liquid option would be preferable for such small parts
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 03:39
|
|
|
So quick question about paints, I finally have some free time coming up and I want to paint my Retribution in red/white knights Templar scheme, and I want to stick to mostly airbrushing for it, so I picked up some minitaire nebula red off of amazon among other things. Problem is, now that I actually have the bottle in-hand it looks a lot more of a burgundyish than the bright red it looked on the color chart. Will doing a white base coat help bring it up, or should I shoot for using a different red entirely?
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 05:42
|
|
|
mr. stefan posted:So quick question about paints, I finally have some free time coming up and I want to paint my Retribution in red/white knights Templar scheme, and I want to stick to mostly airbrushing for it, so I picked up some minitaire nebula red off of amazon among other things. Problem is, now that I actually have the bottle in-hand it looks a lot more of a burgundyish than the bright red it looked on the color chart. Will doing a white base coat help bring it up, or should I shoot for using a different red entirely? I don't know about using a white base coat, but it's worth noting that sometimes paints look different in the bottle/liquid than they do when dry on a model. Usually in my experience it tends to make them less bright, not more, but do a test paint if nothing else.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 05:47
|
|
|
Nebula red is my favorite red ever. It should be a very bright, saturated close to true red. That said the minitaire line is not exactly consistent from batch to batch, so who knows what yours looks like. Shake the poo poo out if it then do some tests and see how it looks out of the bottle. Also, I'd prefer to go over a white basecoat for the vast majority of minitaire. It does not cover well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 06:53
|
|
|
If the red you have doesn't meet your needs, I've been very pleased with the bottle of Vallejo Game Air Bloody Red I picked up about a month ago. Some results:  (shaded mostly with GW Carroburg Crimson, highlighted by mixing a simple middle fleshtone into the base color)
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 07:06
|
|
|
stabbington posted:If the red you have doesn't meet your needs, I've been very pleased with the bottle of Vallejo Game Air Bloody Red I picked up about a month ago. I know you posted that dude before, but the limited palette and contrast really kick rear end.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 08:00
|
|
|
nopantsjack posted:Thanks those are totally perfect! Might actually get this poo poo done now! If you want some more variety there's a bunch of them in the 40k Dark Vengeance box, I think they have different sculpts fromt he separate set, plus you get a couple of leaders, a flamer and stubber (iirc). You may be able to pick them up separately from eBay or similar.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 11:08
|
|
|
"Don't touch that Bond. The Mk V power armour will cover the whole planet in Versace if you're not careful." * Touches button. Is an arsehole. *
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 11:49
|
|
|
stabbington posted:If the red you have doesn't meet your needs, I've been very pleased with the bottle of Vallejo Game Air Bloody Red I picked up about a month ago. Do you prime first? Vallejo's homepage claims it's not nessecary with game air!
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 11:52
|
|
|
One of my biggest problems is painting eyes. I figure that I can just smear white on it, then do a vertical stripe of iris color, then stab the center with a needle with a tiny bit of black paint (or a smaller brush to do another vertical line). I then use flesh tone to cover up all the extra so that I have my eyes looking normal. I can pull that off for GW things where heads are separate pieces....however, with fully assembled models where the heads are already in awkward positions I'm finding that the paint on the brush is drying enough on the tip before I can position and put it on the model. Anything I can do to keep the paint wet longer? Should I be diluting it a lot? I'm using mostly GW paints
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 13:28
|
|
|
Farts posted:One of my biggest problems is painting eyes. Honestly, in most cases it look better to not paint the eyes, because you can't see eyes on people from a distance. But if you want to paint eyes try to not use a pure white, and you might avoid the worst of the crazy looks you might end up with doing eyes on tiny minis. If your paint dries too quickly you can get a paint retarder at most arts and crafts shops. Whenever I dilute paint too much, especially when doing things around eyes and similar details with lots of creases, the paint just runs all over the place.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 13:32
|
|
|
Most people don't bother putting eyes on 28mm models* (assuming that's what you're painting), and if they do no one bothers putting the iris color on at all - at most it's a vertical slash of black over white in the eyes, then paint the flesh color around that. This way, you don't need the drying retarder at all (but it's still handy to have around sometimes). e: *This is assuming you're doing 28mm wargaming models, of which you might have 30-50+ models with eyes to do...if you're doing this on something larger or for single figures ignore that part of my post krushgroove fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Mar 23, 2015 |
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 13:45
|
|
|
Farts posted:Anything I can do to keep the paint wet longer? No, seriously. A bigger brush, say size 2 holds more paint and dries slower than a size 00 one. You just have to find some that have good points. With 00s I had one attempt before I had to clean the brush/take more paint. Nowadays I just say "gently caress it I'm too lazy to grab the detail brush" and do eyes with my default one.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 13:48
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Use a bigger brush. This as well. I'm currently painting 6mm minis with a size 1 brush. It's tempting to get the smallest brush you can find when painting details, but often it causes more problems than it solves.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 14:00
|
|
|
Also you can get fine detail brushes (00 and smaller) with longer bristles, which hold more paint than brushes with short/conical shape bristles, these work great for line edging, etc. But I wouldn't assume most painters have these kinds of brushes handy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 14:13
|
|
|
I find it easier to paint the eye black and then add the white using a cup shaped curved stroke:
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 14:19
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:Use a bigger brush. This! I spent last night painting fur trim on a model with a size 4 brush  Those 0 00 and 000 style brushes do my head in, I don't think I've ever gotten on with them. The 1 is my usual 'go to' brush but I'm loving using my much bigger brushes at the moment purely for how much paint they hold.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 14:45
|
|
|
enri posted:This! I spent last night painting fur trim on a model with a size 4 brush It speeds up things a lot when doing assembly line painting as well. It sucks to make a brushstroke, lose focus as you move your brush, dip the brush, move your hands, and re-focus on your mini, and make another stroke. 400 times in an hour.
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 15:08
|
|
|
Indolent Bastard posted:AWESOME PICTURES These a great, thanks. I already have a ton of scenery from my 6mm KoW stuff and I liked the looks of the microworld games vikings so I figured saga would be a fun game to get into. Where did you get your measuring tool made?
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 15:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 04:23 |
|
|
Cross-posting from the model thread since I used some of the awesome techniques I learned here on it quote:It's amazing what you can do with an old, cheap model kit, some patience and creativity
|
|
#
?
Mar 23, 2015 15:23
|
|
I was originally planning on just putting together the AT-AT as a quick build, but once I saw the little snowspeeder that came with it, I knew what needed to be done. This also gave me an excuse to further practice using homemade oil washes. I'm shocked at how well this all came together.
