Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
SuperDucky
May 13, 2007

by exmarx

Jonny 290 posted:


(I have become real fuckin' good buddies with marine epoxy)
God loving bless West System.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Thinking about maybe upgrading to 50 amp hookups. We have a 50A drop here and 30 amps is pushing it when you start talking about electric heaters.

New power cable, new breaker panel with two hots, divvy up the circuits? Something like that?

(for those of you who are confused, "50 amp" RV service is actually two 50A feeds plus a neutral and ground, versus a single wire of 30 amps)

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
So I guess you can feed one half with one 50A circuit and the other half with the other circuit? Sounds worth it to me, especially since this winter is shaping up to be good and cold. Y'all are already in single digits, imagine what January and February might be like. 50A just to one heater might be nice. :v:

I say this with no idea of the cost and also with it not coming out of my pocket, so....

InterceptorV8
Mar 9, 2004

Loaded up and trucking.We gonna do what they say cant be done.
Or you can just run a extension cord to the post and do it that way.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Almost kind of like the idea of adding another 30A shore cable just for heaters, to a small panel, and then getting a 50a male -> dual 30A female adapter for the pole drop.

That'd come in handy in the summer too, as this class of rigs from this era can't run both ACs at the same time - there's a front/rear toggle switch for shore power, and the back one is in addition hardwired to the second coil on the genset. I could run that line to the secondary breaker panel and we could rock both air conditioners at once no problem.

InterceptorV8
Mar 9, 2004

Loaded up and trucking.We gonna do what they say cant be done.

Jonny 290 posted:

Almost kind of like the idea of adding another 30A shore cable just for heaters, to a small panel, and then getting a 50a male -> dual 30A female adapter for the pole drop.

That'd come in handy in the summer too, as this class of rigs from this era can't run both ACs at the same time - there's a front/rear toggle switch for shore power, and the back one is in addition hardwired to the second coil on the genset. I could run that line to the secondary breaker panel and we could rock both air conditioners at once no problem.

I guess if you wanted to be really complex, you could wire up a two gang box at the front and one at the back of the RV, and somehow get power to one of your AC (or both) from it. Then just have it wired to a standard 50 amp cord. That way you could have your standard 30 amp circuit pretty much unfucked in the RV, but then have a completely different system for your space heaters and AC. But I would try and figure out how to have one of the AC units on the standard 30 amp, or be able to switch back to it, in case you go to a 30amp only park.

SuperDucky
May 13, 2007

by exmarx

Jonny 290 posted:



That'd come in handy in the summer too, as this class of rigs from this era can't run both ACs at the same time - there's a front/rear toggle switch for shore power, and the back one is in addition hardwired to the second coil on the genset.

That's interesting to note, thanks. I'm looking at selling/trading my current gas 450 puller for a late 90's pusher to help with hauling boats and to get a bit more underfloor storage. Also, I can't recall if you've mentioned, what are the specs on your genset?

As far as your panel dilemma, the 50--> 30^2 would probably be the easiest way to do it, modifications to the stock wiring, wise.

IV8 is right, too: most parks I've been to in the southeast have limited/specific 50 amp hookup sites that are far less numerous than the 30s.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Onan 6500w back there. Has a 30a main circuit, 20a aux.

--
Sewer hose split along the spiral - that stuff is made of spit and tissue paper. Terrible poo poo. It's my fault, I tried to move it without thawing first. Fortunately it's just grey tank water. Grabbing some 3" PVC while we're at the store buying insulation, we aren't going anywhere till March.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Laid a very nice sewer line down with 3" PVC and some hangers, only to learn that the black tank isn't flowing. Haha.


Oh well, I got the toilet changed, at least. Mrs will be happy when she comes back from the Colorado Market.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Putting up the styrofoam skirt a few sheets at a time - cold today. Got the back half done and it's already noticeably warmer, specifically down by the floor.

Also cut insulation panels to block the 14" roof vents, and a big 2x8' piece for the bedroom window. SO much warmer.

To clarify on the power issue, power is unmetered here, so we have incentive to run as much electric heat as possible.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Sorry for turning this into my personal blog =/ You guys can chime in too!

Insulation skirt is done and by the time I finished it, went back to check the mail and came back inside the bedroom was 80F, off a single electric heater, with two cats sleeping on the bed. Insulation success so far. Suspecting this'll save me the $100 insulation cost in propane in like two months, not to mention the pleasure of not having 40F floors

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!

Jonny 290 posted:

the pleasure of not having 40F floors

Even if you stayed in the red on this project you can't put a price on this

SuperDucky
May 13, 2007

by exmarx

Jonny 290 posted:

Onan 6500w back there. Has a 30a main circuit, 20a aux.


Good gently caress. Well, with 2 ACs I can see the need, and, I bet they're a mite more inefficient than my mid 2000s unit, but, drat. You could do some stuff with 6.5kw.

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.

Jonny 290 posted:

Putting up the styrofoam skirt a few sheets at a time - cold today. Got the back half done and it's already noticeably warmer, specifically down by the floor.

Also cut insulation panels to block the 14" roof vents, and a big 2x8' piece for the bedroom window. SO much warmer.

To clarify on the power issue, power is unmetered here, so we have incentive to run as much electric heat as possible.

fyi, pelonis safe-t-furnace (the square kind with the ceramic disc heating elements) are the best fan heater in the world

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002
I don't have anything to add to this thread other than that I read the whole thing and think this is the best thread in AI. I want to get an early 90s bus and fix it up like 290. I just bought a house though so this is something that's probably a few years away, but man, thinking about it sure is fun. Maybe I'll find some crazy deal I can't pass up if I take my time. There are lots of pentecostals around here so maybe I'll luck out and find another preacher special.

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

Jonny 290 posted:

Sorry for turning this into my personal blog =/ You guys can chime in too!



Uhh - my Scotsman is cozy under a tarp until spring. I might work on it if the garage was large enough for me to drive it inside and park it.

Spring projects:

- fix the door or at the very least the door latch
- try to source some storm windows
- double check the seals
- buy a spare tire already
- I've got some cool metal racking that I'm considering installing

SuperDucky
May 13, 2007

by exmarx
Went to take the Four Winds to a party so I wouldn't have to drive. Wouldn't jump. Even with a 7.3 Powerstroke on the other end. Goddamnit, if I have to buy 600$ worth of group 27s again...

Togaparty27
Jan 13, 2012
In the next month or so I will be purchasing my first Class C. We will be moving from Oklahoma to Alaska and I will need to get all things with the RV ready for the trip. On that note, does anyone know of a good wifi booster I can get to boost the signal to my laptop/ipad from hotspots?

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

Togaparty27 posted:

In the next month or so I will be purchasing my first Class C. We will be moving from Oklahoma to Alaska and I will need to get all things with the RV ready for the trip. On that note, does anyone know of a good wifi booster I can get to boost the signal to my laptop/ipad from hotspots?

I grabbed up one of these to use on drill weekends.

http://www.amazon.com/docooler-Outd...sb+wifi+antenna

it works fairly well. I get a boost on bars and pick up a few more spots that I wouldn't normally see with my laptop's onboard wifi card.

Togaparty27
Jan 13, 2012

Sandbagger SA posted:

I grabbed up one of these to use on drill weekends.

http://www.amazon.com/docooler-Outd...sb+wifi+antenna

it works fairly well. I get a boost on bars and pick up a few more spots that I wouldn't normally see with my laptop's onboard wifi card.

Des this mount on the outside of the rv or does it stay inside?

InterceptorV8
Mar 9, 2004

Loaded up and trucking.We gonna do what they say cant be done.

Togaparty27 posted:

In the next month or so I will be purchasing my first Class C. We will be moving from Oklahoma to Alaska and I will need to get all things with the RV ready for the trip. On that note, does anyone know of a good wifi booster I can get to boost the signal to my laptop/ipad from hotspots?

Heat tape.

You gonna need Heat Tape. and maybe tank heaters.

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

Togaparty27 posted:

Des this mount on the outside of the rv or does it stay inside?

I use it inside for now because i'd rather not add more holes and I'm not sure about how it would survive in the weather/branches hitting it.

I'm sure it would work even better if I had it mounted outside.

Togaparty27
Jan 13, 2012

InterceptorV8 posted:

Heat tape.

You gonna need Heat Tape. and maybe tank heaters.

Lots of heat tape! I didn't know they had heaters for the tanks. Thanks for the advice!

Togaparty27
Jan 13, 2012

Sandbagger SA posted:

I use it inside for now because i'd rather not add more holes and I'm not sure about how it would survive in the weather/branches hitting it.

I'm sure it would work even better if I had it mounted outside.

Ah, thanks for advice!

InterceptorV8
Mar 9, 2004

Loaded up and trucking.We gonna do what they say cant be done.

Togaparty27 posted:

Lots of heat tape! I didn't know they had heaters for the tanks. Thanks for the advice!

Yeah, tank heating pads aren't cheap though.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
I didn't buy heat tape for our water feed line, I bought the wire stuff that they sell for de-icing gutters. 3 watts a foot or something like that, was cheap, 1/4" diameter wire.

you are going to want a skirt for cold weather; if you're going to be mobile you'll have to get one of the snap-on vinyl skirts, but I strongly recommend doing what I did if you're parking for a while, and just buying 1" foam sheet insulation for a few bucks each and cutting your own. we've weathered several negative-F cold snaps in Denver here with few issues once we got the skirt up.

oh also you want your sewer line heated. because the hoses are roughly 0.4% as strong as ice, if you ever get a frozen bit and move the line AT ALL it will just rip right open.

As for internet, my setup started out as a Ubiquiti Nanostation loco m2 on an extendible paint pole clamped to the ladder, feeding a Mikrotik RB333 that handles all the routing and NAT stuff. We've got comcast now via actual coax, but for that first month, it saved our rear end.

InterceptorV8
Mar 9, 2004

Loaded up and trucking.We gonna do what they say cant be done.

Jonny 290 posted:

I didn't buy heat tape for our water feed line, I bought the wire stuff that they sell for de-icing gutters. 3 watts a foot or something like that, was cheap, 1/4" diameter wire.

you are going to want a skirt for cold weather; if you're going to be mobile you'll have to get one of the snap-on vinyl skirts, but I strongly recommend doing what I did if you're parking for a while, and just buying 1" foam sheet insulation for a few bucks each and cutting your own. we've weathered several negative-F cold snaps in Denver here with few issues once we got the skirt up.

oh also you want your sewer line heated. because the hoses are roughly 0.4% as strong as ice, if you ever get a frozen bit and move the line AT ALL it will just rip right open.

As for internet, my setup started out as a Ubiquiti Nanostation loco m2 on an extendible paint pole clamped to the ladder, feeding a Mikrotik RB333 that handles all the routing and NAT stuff. We've got comcast now via actual coax, but for that first month, it saved our rear end.

Frost King Insulation 30 ft. Automatic Electric Heat Cable Kit HC30A
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-30-ft-Automatic-Electric-Heat-Cable-Kit-HC30A/100196471

Something like that, but for gutters?

Yeah that's the heat tape I'm talking about.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Yep, basically the stuff. Although ours is not thermostatted and I got it for about $30. Strongly would recommend a thermostat. On those 55F and sunny days, if your feed line is also insulated, your 'cold' tap is hot as HELL for the first gallon or whatever. SO you think "oh i can unplug this for the day" and then Denver Happens and it's 5F in the morning and your hose is solid, so you plug in the heater. rinse repeat.

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002

Jonny 290 posted:

Yep, basically the stuff. Although ours is not thermostatted and I got it for about $30. Strongly would recommend a thermostat. On those 55F and sunny days, if your feed line is also insulated, your 'cold' tap is hot as HELL for the first gallon or whatever. SO you think "oh i can unplug this for the day" and then Denver Happens and it's 5F in the morning and your hose is solid, so you plug in the heater. rinse repeat.

http://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovato...thermostat+plug

I don't know if it's worth $12 to fix but this would probably do the trick for you.

Togaparty27
Jan 13, 2012
Does anyone have a good solar setup that I could build. I'm thinking I will need around 200-300 watts.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
To keep it out of the archives and provide an update, the last Denver freeze split our water heater tank. I am stingy and left the propane off too long. I learned my got-drat lesson.

Fortunately Atwood makes a replacement tank so I just had to rip the front panel off, unhook some water lines, swap and go. $150 off Prime beats the hell out of $350 for a new heater.

And, the old one, though it seemed to hold heat for a while, had old, crumbly fiberglass insulation in maybe a 1/2" layer - wrapped in cardboard. The new one has a huge styrofoam insulating carrier and I expect it to stay hot for like, the whole freakin' day. Just to be sure I trimmed up some of the water heater's plywood compartment with excess 1" foil-backed styro that I had lying around from the skirt.

The 28th will be our 8 month RV-anniversary. Holding strong!

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.
Oh yeah - winter camper update.

The scotsman is still under snow. The heavy snow and ice caused the roof to dip a little and I'll have to reinforce the ceiling joists in the spring. Other than that, the tarp didnt fly away and it seemed relatively dry inside.

bandman
Mar 17, 2008
Winter update on my scotty: didn't do poo poo other than get one wall put together and get bead board glued to it. Now that it isn't cold out, I might get my rear end in gear and finish it up.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
12 hours after a heat (60c thermostat) it was still on the toasty side of lukewarm. Should make reheats for showers _way_ easier.

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.
I'm trying to think of ways to seal my jalousie windows when I'm not using them. Do you guys have any ideas?

iForge
Oct 28, 2010

Apple's new "iBlacksmith Suite: Professional Edition" features the iForge, iAnvil, and the iHammer.

Sandbagger SA posted:

I'm trying to think of ways to seal my jalousie windows when I'm not using them. Do you guys have any ideas?

How often will you need to open them? This stuff is great for sealing things up for the off-season or so, but isn't the right route to go if you are just sealing them up in between trips.

Noeland
Feb 28, 2006

Jonny 290 posted:

To keep it out of the archives and provide an update, the last Denver freeze split our water heater tank. I am stingy and left the propane off too long. I learned my got-drat lesson.


Since you're running propane, why not run tankless?

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Didnt even know those existed for RVs! Neat. thanks now I got another thing on my wishlist

bandman
Mar 17, 2008

Jonny 290 posted:

Didnt even know those existed for RVs! Neat. thanks now I got another thing on my wishlist

Several of the laundromats I've done work at have used multiple tankless water heaters plumbed together instead of one or two big boilers.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Sandbagger SA
Aug 12, 2003

Giant Thighs.
Painted Threads.
Just Off the Highway.

iForge posted:

How often will you need to open them? This stuff is great for sealing things up for the off-season or so, but isn't the right route to go if you are just sealing them up in between trips.


I've been thinking about building some storm windows/covers that fit over the jalousies when I'm not using them but I do use them quite a bit when I'm out on a trip. I generally take my camper out once a month in the warm season to use it for national guard duty and this summer I may be using it for camping as well. :ohdear:

as it is, the windows actually keep most rain out but the air pressure (??) seems to suck the water inside during really nasty storms.

  • Locked thread