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This cam sensor O-ring becomes brittle and hard as hell. Thankfully, it's an easy replacement, right under your valve cover, by the coils. Best to do alongside your valve cover gasket. Shouldn't take anyone more than an hour, including readjusting your timing. http://i.imgur.com/fCbohXI.jpg
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Mar 18, 2015 23:46
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Any special tools required? I have a gently caress ton of wrenches but I've never done more than an oil change before on a car
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Mar 19, 2015 00:11
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Some pliers and standard metric wrenches/sockets. You'll need wrenches to reach some bolts. Also, NA timing adjustment requires a jumper wire (paperclip) and possibly a timing light. Or "eh, gently caress it. I'll play it by ear." http://www.miata.net/garage/cas_seal.html http://www.miata.net/garage/valvecover/
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Mar 19, 2015 00:22
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No special tools required to get the cam angle sensor out. You might need a timing light to readjust timing but if you mark the position properly you should be fine. You should also check the heater hose directly below it which will be hosed up if oil has been dripping onto it. Be sure to check the position of the two tangs on the rotating tip. They are slightly off center so they can only go back in the same way, but you will save some headache if you make a note of the general position beforehand. The side of one tang is smooth and the other is dimpled so you can tell which is which. Also, don't be afraid to use some force to push the sensor back in since the new O-ring will be a tight fit. I did not do/realize any of these things and it took a good frustrating hour for me to get it back in. This is without taking the valve cover off. I imagine it would be a lot easier if you do.
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Mar 19, 2015 00:29
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destructo posted:Yep, in stock! 15x9s should be here soon too. So how is the fitment with those? Will they work if you just roll the fenders?
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Mar 19, 2015 01:31
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Remove the fender liners in the front, roll the fenders on all 4 corners, and slightly pull in the front.
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Mar 19, 2015 01:54
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Goofy rear end transmission ratios have been posted: Gear Ratios: MT 1st 5.087 2nd 2.991 3rd 2.035 4th 1.594 5th 1.286 6th 1.000 Reverse 4.696 Final Drive 2.866
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Mar 19, 2015 02:25
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Anyone interested in NC carpet floor mats, NC stock antenna or 303 convertible top cleaner/fabric guard for canvas tops? Good price for goons. Mats - http://www.amazon.com/MAZDA-MIATA-2006-2012-CARPETED-FLOOR/dp/B00853NUMO/ 303 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A8JNF0/ Xpost in the AI Marketplace thread.
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Mar 19, 2015 03:29
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Phone posted:Goofy rear end transmission ratios have been posted: That final drive can't be right, that's like a 70's V8 luxobarge final drive ratio. 
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Mar 19, 2015 03:30
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HotCanadianChick posted:That final drive can't be right, that's like a 70's V8 luxobarge final drive ratio. But the transmission ratios are semi truck low gears. This car will end up being dyno'd in 6th gear.
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Mar 19, 2015 03:47
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If my car has failed AC with absolutely no refrigerant in it, it means the leak is too bad to just throw new stuff in, right? I dont see anything missing, whats the way to find a leak before florida gets hot again?
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Mar 19, 2015 05:14
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MattD1zzl3 posted:If my car has failed AC with absolutely no refrigerant in it, it means the leak is too bad to just throw new stuff in, right? I dont see anything missing, whats the way to find a leak before florida gets hot again? UV dye. You should be able to buy a can of refrigerant with UV dye in it from your local auto parts shop.
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Mar 19, 2015 05:47
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Phone posted:Goofy rear end transmission ratios have been posted: Presumably the gearbox is marginally more efficient in direct drive as opposed to a typical overdrive in top gear?
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Mar 19, 2015 12:20
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Edmund Honda posted:Presumably the gearbox is marginally more efficient in direct drive as opposed to a typical overdrive in top gear? Yeah, that's what I was thinking as well. Have the cruising gear be a pass through = no drive train losses = more fuel efficient. Was talking with Sav earlier, and he said that the ratios are similar to an NB 6-speed with a 3.83 rear end (note: not 3.909).
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Mar 19, 2015 12:48
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Hikaki posted:No special tools required to get the cam angle sensor out. You might need a timing light to readjust timing but if you mark the position properly you should be fine. You should also check the heater hose directly below it which will be hosed up if oil has been dripping onto it. Definitely do it and the VC gasket at the same time, makes it much easier. Also I have 9 extra O-rings if anyone needs one, bought a 10 pack when I did mine.
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Mar 19, 2015 13:18
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I fount the CAS o ring a lot easier to do than people make it out to be. Disconnected the coil pack and pushed it out of the way and I was done in under 30 min. As for the hard top, here's pictures of the latches and the plates on my car.    One side I can get to clip in but the other isn't quite lined up. I have my suspicion that it's related to to soft top not getting pressed far enough in.
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Mar 19, 2015 13:57
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The side plates on the car have a little bit of adjustment room, loosen the bolts and see if you can swing them forward or back enough to meet. Some hardtops I've seen are also diagonally warped from sitting end-on in storage so you might need to give it some leverage from outside the car to make it reach both latches
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Mar 19, 2015 14:03
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opengl128 posted:Definitely do it and the VC gasket at the same time, makes it much easier. I'll take you up on an O-ring. Been meaning to fix mine for a while but 
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Mar 19, 2015 15:18
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Maksimus54 posted:I'll take you up on an O-ring. Been meaning to fix mine for a while but Shoot me an email with your address, my username at gmail. May not be able to get it out for a week or so.
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Mar 19, 2015 21:41
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I ended up with a tight slot and a big set of tangs when I helped a friend with their CAS, so I ended up taking the cover off the CAS itself to align the tangs by hand before pushing it in. Put the cover back on with a right angle screwdriver ratchet.
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Mar 20, 2015 00:47
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Well figured out my hardtop problems. Seems the glass window top I got on the super cheap is not compatible with my roll bar so it doesn't let the roof go low enough for the hardtop to fit right. Being that the top is leaking, looks like I'll be replacing it soon. Thinking Robbins OEM style plastic with zipper.
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Mar 20, 2015 23:42
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Commodore_64 posted:I ended up with a tight slot and a big set of tangs when I helped a friend with their CAS, so I ended up taking the cover off the CAS itself to align the tangs by hand before pushing it in. Put the cover back on with a right angle screwdriver ratchet. Cool, I checked it out and the CAS was oily as gently caress underneath so I think that might be my problem. It's warmed up in Denver now and things seem to have stopped leaking. I'll just put this off until fall.
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Mar 21, 2015 00:19
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A MIRACLE posted:Cool, I checked it out and the CAS was oily as gently caress underneath so I think that might be my problem. It's warmed up in Denver now and things seem to have stopped leaking. I'll just put this off until fall. Check the heater core hoses that are right under the CAS. The oil dripping on them wears them out much faster so you might want to just replace them as well when you do the o-ring.
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Mar 21, 2015 14:28
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Larrymer posted:Check the heater core hoses that are right under the CAS. The oil dripping on them wears them out much faster so you might want to just replace them as well when you do the o-ring. Is that true for the 1.6? I mean the oil wears them out but are they where they get dripped on? Mine seemed dry even though my car sprayed oil like a sprinkler with a 25 year old CAS o ring. I used a marker to draw a line before I loosened it and changed mine in 10 minutes lined right back up. I didn't have to move anythng.
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Mar 21, 2015 15:26
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YES. If your CAS was leaking you need to replace the heater hoses.
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Mar 21, 2015 15:31
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leica posted:YES. If your CAS was leaking you need to replace the heater hoses. Do it, I replaced my CAS after a leak and didnt do the hoses. A week later they exploded.
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Mar 21, 2015 17:36
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Hey Sadi, where do the heater hose lines explode onto exactly?  (I've had the same poo poo happen; replace your heater hoses, kids)
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Mar 22, 2015 01:37
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Haha yeah mine blew all over the headers and made quite the smoke show.
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Mar 22, 2015 19:10
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Going to try and find time to foamectomy the NA this week. Two questions: Taking out the additional pad in the back won't do much for lowering my seating position, right? Legs are good, my torso is just too tall. Is cutting the bottom hump out of the seat cushion still the recommended way to go? I'd like to have the option to reverse it if if it doesn't work out, and slicing one chunk off the bottom seems the way to do that vs slicing a bunch of little pieces out of the top to shape the seat. Long term, does cutting the bottom piece cause any butt soreness, or for your butt to hit the metal seat cradle? I imagine it's like sinking into the middle of a donut or innertube; any bad hip stuff going on there?
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Mar 22, 2015 19:14
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What could cause a high pitched squeal from the engine when revving in neutral or with the clutch depressed? I haven't noticed it in gear. It seems to happen if I stab the throttle to higher than 3000 rpms Edit I think it might be a belt noise? It happened briefly on startup once but I haven't been able to replicate the startup noise. Might depend on what gear I'm in vs neutral. Also now there is a low whine present while driving that gets higher in pitch with speed increase A MIRACLE fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Mar 22, 2015 |
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Mar 22, 2015 20:00
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A MIRACLE posted:What could cause a high pitched squeal from the engine when revving in neutral or with the clutch depressed? I haven't noticed it in gear. It seems to happen if I stab the throttle to higher than 3000 rpms On what model? On an NA, greasing the clutch pushrod might be a really quick fix.
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Mar 22, 2015 20:54
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meltie posted:On what model? On an NA, greasing the clutch pushrod might be a really quick fix. It's a 1.6, no power steering, no air conditioning. Posted an edit above
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Mar 22, 2015 20:56
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I'd start with tightening up the alternator belt.
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Mar 22, 2015 23:11
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That's what I plan to do as soon as the engine cools. It started squealing at idle, I flipped my lights off and it went quiet immediately. I think that runs the water pump too right? Shop just replaced that which makes me think they maybe didn't readjust the belt properly?
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Mar 22, 2015 23:21
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I finally have saved and scraped together enough money to replace the top on my NC with a robbins streamline canvas top. I'm hoping I can enlist my wife to take photos and help as I take apart basically the entire interior from the steering wheel back and replace the top. There are NO guides out there for doing a third gen and I feel like I should help the community out.
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Mar 23, 2015 13:25
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I am thinking about buying this, any obvious things I'm missing? http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=571787
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Mar 23, 2015 19:12
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Chriskory posted:I am thinking about buying this, any obvious things I'm missing? Ride would be pretty rough but if you're not going to daily it, sounds awesome to me.
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Mar 23, 2015 23:29
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Sadi posted:Ride would be pretty rough but if you're not going to daily it, sounds awesome to me.
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Mar 24, 2015 01:35
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Has anyone else found that spiders really, really like their Miata? 
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Mar 24, 2015 02:27
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Why would it look like my AC compressor is leaking coolant?  Timeline: Buy my NA last May Replace AC compressor, dryer, expansion valve etc in August Overheat and notice coolant leak in September Replace water pump during timing belt job this winter, hoping that water pump takes care of it Notice that replacement AC compressor has failed during timing belt job, replace it and affiliated parts again See coolant on garage floor a couple of weeks ago, look under car tonight and see that coolant still appears on AC compressor
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Mar 24, 2015 03:28
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