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krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
That's a fantastic idea for mounting the snow speeder!

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Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!
Also the white that you use should be an off white, like a linen or bone white, pure white usually looks too intense.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

TarDolphinorShark posted:

These a great, thanks. I already have a ton of scenery from my 6mm KoW stuff and I liked the looks of the microworld games vikings so I figured saga would be a fun game to get into. Where did you get your measuring tool made?

I made it at my local fablab. Check your PMs.

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
Can someone recommend a way to seal a small group of minis based with static grass? Something in a spray bottle would be really nice - these pieces won't get super rough treatment but I'd like to make them as durable as I can.

Deanut Pancer
Nov 24, 2012

The Sex Cannon posted:

Here's an Eradicator that I finished last week:






I love tanks.
This looks super tidy - awesome work on the edges and all the rivets. What colours are you using for the main body of the tank? Specifically the dark grey/green? hull. How do you get that cold hard metal look?

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
I'm pretty bad at figures, especially faces, but here's a recent small project.



I'm also bad at photos.

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.

HardCoil posted:

Do you prime first? Vallejo's homepage claims it's not nessecary with game air!

I prime everything because I like the added durability and basic light sketch it gives me (I do the zenithal priming thing). Paint companies make that claim all the time, but I ignore it since priming suits my needs.

Rockman Reserve
Oct 2, 2007

"Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"

Sydney Bottocks posted:

IIRC, this should be the bottle/label being used currently.



The only thing I can seem to find is this, and I'm concerned about it being labelled a cleaner rather than a finish (also, it seems to be scented).

http://www.target.com/webapp/wcs/st...oz/-/A-12972774

El Estrago Bonito
Dec 17, 2010

Scout Finch Bitch

Ryoshi posted:

The only thing I can seem to find is this, and I'm concerned about it being labelled a cleaner rather than a finish (also, it seems to be scented).

http://www.target.com/webapp/wcs/st...oz/-/A-12972774

You want the finish not the cleaner:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pledge-Floor-Care-27-fl-oz/15136693

Tuxedo Jack
Sep 11, 2001

Hey Ma, who's that band I like? Oh yeah, Hall & Oates.
I was having some issues with my camera tonight - but wanted to show these off because I put a lot of time in on the basing, which I never do. Need to go back and add a few banner details and names - but these are 99% complete. Click for ridicuhuge.









Sorry again for the poor color correction. I'll shoot these guys again tomorrow maybe.

This was my first attempt at urban basing, and I think it came out spectacular.

For the basing, I used Cork Gasket material, primed gray, washed with Nuln Oil, drybrushed with Astronomicon Grey, then washed again. The rebar is twisted brass rods, and some plasticard tubing and girders. Also random bits and stuff. I made a lousy attempt at water effects for the busted pipes, but wasn't happy with how it was coming out. I have 15 more Terminators, two Dreadknights, three Dreadnoughts and two Storm Ravens to go, though, so I'll have plenty of opportunity to clean up the basing and try different things.

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



Ryoshi posted:

The only thing I can seem to find is this, and I'm concerned about it being labelled a cleaner rather than a finish (also, it seems to be scented).

http://www.target.com/webapp/wcs/st...oz/-/A-12972774

I have a bottle of this under my sink but at least now I know not to do anything with my mans using it.

The Sisko
Jan 9, 2009

"Whenever there's injustice, wrongs to be righted, innocents to be defended, The Sisko will be there, delivering ass-whooppings."
So on Sunday my LGS had an airbrush workshop that was all about metallics so I took my Imperial Knight and this my attempt at what had been taught.





Also tried pre-shading for the for the first time on this Star Wars mini

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

Tuxedo Jack posted:

I was having some issues with my camera tonight - but wanted to show these off because I put a lot of time in on the basing, which I never do. Need to go back and add a few banner details and names - but these are 99% complete. Click for ridicuhuge.


The knights look good, and I really dig the wispy blue on the swords. The bases really are top notch though; your effort shows through!

Post 9-11 User
Apr 14, 2010


I don't know where to go with this. My brother has a Knight he started and gave up on, I'm painting his second one so this is the basic color layout he wants. The grey drybrushing I can clean up later, that's no problem. What I'm stumped on is what to do with the giant monochrome areas: his copy has no lines so I was going to add checkered squares. I thought it would be enough to highlight/lowlight each square but I'm thinking that won't work at all. I may do a traditional black/white checker pattern but maybe that diverts too much from his scheme?

He doesn't really understand that massive monochrome sections on a large miniature need to be detailed somehow. I'm wondering how to break that up without straying too far from his design.

PRESIDENT GOKU posted:

I got a Mason jar, filled it half way with PURPLE POWER, and raw dogged my hams in that poo poo. The primer on the bases came off in about 5 minutes, but I think the stuff on the hams themselves is being a bit more stubborn. I"ll let it sit in there until my paints get here, then take an old toothbrush to them.

Toothbrush is fine, if it's a metal mini you can blast the rest off with a wire brush rotozip on low speed (metal minis should have hard edges zipped off anyway). I think I tried a plastic brush attachment and it didn't do much.

I bought a jug of Purple Power to see if it's anything like Simple Green and I have yet to use it. At all.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

The Sisko posted:

So on Sunday my LGS had an airbrush workshop that was all about metallics so I took my Imperial Knight and this my attempt at what had been taught.





Also tried pre-shading for the for the first time on this Star Wars mini


Lookin good lookin good! Don't be scared to go a little more extreme on the highlights. You can always dull things down with a wash of black. The tip on the barrel is looking great though.

Halverine
May 26, 2004

Endsay ookhay
So I've just picked up this hobby after buying Imperial Assault and deciding to paint the minis. I'm following Sorastro's guide videos and am up to my third attempt to paint a Stormtrooper (the first two attempts are currently in a bath of Simple Green).

I primed with Citadel Skull White, applied Nuln Oil as a wash and am up to highlighting with Skar White.

My results with the white so far just look really dodgy to me. I would love to hear from people if it's my brushwork or I'm not thinning the paint enough for the highlights.

I hope it's just something I can get better at.



lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Halverine posted:

So I've just picked up this hobby after buying Imperial Assault and deciding to paint the minis. I'm following Sorastro's guide videos and am up to my third attempt to paint a Stormtrooper (the first two attempts are currently in a bath of Simple Green).

I primed with Citadel Skull White, applied Nuln Oil as a wash and am up to highlighting with Skar White.

My results with the white so far just look really dodgy to me. I would love to hear from people if it's my brushwork or I'm not thinning the paint enough for the highlights.

I hope it's just something I can get better at.





You are being silly. Those look great for tabletop level painting, especially for a beginner painting white, which is a tricky colour. If you want to get an even better result you could go for working with more layers. Doing the white in several, thinner, layers will help you hide your brush strokes. But again, I would not be embarassed at all to put minis of this quality on a gaming table, and neither should you.

Halverine
May 26, 2004

Endsay ookhay
Wow, thanks. I guess I'm falling for the trap on comparing myself to people who have been doing this for way longer.

I'll try the thinner layers. I worry that I'll thin too much and it the paint will go everywhere on the model but yeah, I'm just being silly I guess.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Halverine posted:

Wow, thanks. I guess I'm falling for the trap on comparing myself to people who have been doing this for way longer.

I'll try the thinner layers. I worry that I'll thin too much and it the paint will go everywhere on the model but yeah, I'm just being silly I guess.

It's easy to get very critical about your own results. You know exactly where to look for mistakes, because you painted it. And a lot of minis posted online that you might be comparing with are painted specifically for showing. That means that the painter invests a lot of extra attention for a single mini or a small group of minis, and the less experience you have the more time you'll have to invest in getting them "just perfect".

So while spending 8-9 hours on a display mini is very reasonable, you'll never get your boxed game painted in time that way. At this stage it's good to get a lot of minis painted, and work on steadily getting used to the paintbrush. In your case I think that just getting a smoother application of the white will improve the look, and that's to a large degree depending on your hand-eye coordination for the brush, and getting the right amount of water in your paint. So I'd continue working on the set of mini, while focusing on trying to improve on those things with every mini. And again, you're already at a good tabletop level, so don't worry if you don't see drastic improvements immediately.

Also, your stormtrooper will look at least twice as good once you have painted the base, so you have that going for you as well.

Dr. Phildo
Dec 8, 2003

Except the heaven had come so near,
So seemed to choose my door,The distance would not haunt me so

Soiled Meat

Halverine posted:

So I've just picked up this hobby after buying Imperial Assault and deciding to paint the minis. I'm following Sorastro's guide videos and am up to my third attempt to paint a Stormtrooper (the first two attempts are currently in a bath of Simple Green).

I primed with Citadel Skull White, applied Nuln Oil as a wash and am up to highlighting with Skar White.

My results with the white so far just look really dodgy to me. I would love to hear from people if it's my brushwork or I'm not thinning the paint enough for the highlights.

I hope it's just something I can get better at.





He's also got a Dirty Tattooine look going for him, which I think works pretty well.

To further what liljonas said, once you get your method down with the troopers, you'll have a better grip on what works for you so that a little more time and effort will make the hero miniatures even better (and they should always look better anyway)

Farts
Nov 4, 2005
Thanks for the suggestions about my eye painting problems. I'm hitting up Blick later tonight to get some new brushes (because most of mine are starting to split after two years now) - will do some testing tomorrow!

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
Yeah that Storm trooper looks fine - if anything it just looks like that guy has seen SOME poo poo.

The Sex Cannon
Nov 22, 2004

Eh. I'm pretty content with my current logo.

Deanut Pancer posted:

This looks super tidy - awesome work on the edges and all the rivets. What colours are you using for the main body of the tank? Specifically the dark grey/green? hull. How do you get that cold hard metal look?

The grey is Mechanicus Standard Grey washed with Nuln Oil and highlighted with Fortress Grey.

The metal is Leadbelcher washed with Nuln Oil and lightly highlighted with Leadbelcher.

Nothing too strenuous.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Halverine posted:

So I've just picked up this hobby after buying Imperial Assault and deciding to paint the minis. I'm following Sorastro's guide videos and am up to my third attempt to paint a Stormtrooper (the first two attempts are currently in a bath of Simple Green).

I primed with Citadel Skull White, applied Nuln Oil as a wash and am up to highlighting with Skar White.

My results with the white so far just look really dodgy to me. I would love to hear from people if it's my brushwork or I'm not thinning the paint enough for the highlights.

I hope it's just something I can get better at.





You're certainly doing very well for a beginner! As others have already said, white is a really difficult colour to get right , and you're definitely demonstrating that you have the ability to paint neatly within the lines.

In addition to the other advice esp re thinning paints more, can I suggest doing the following

Prime Skull White - basecoat with the palest grey you can find - wash nuln oil - highlight with pale grey - highlight with white.

This should give you a slightly smoother transition. Unfortunately pure white doesn't take washes very well, and I personally find basecoating with an off-white colour quite helpful.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Question for those of you that zenithal prime: do you do any edge highlighting at all? I'm working on these red Eldar and zenithal primed them but wonder if edging the armor with orange will help them 'pop'.

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro

krushgroove posted:

Question for those of you that zenithal prime: do you do any edge highlighting at all? I'm working on these red Eldar and zenithal primed them but wonder if edging the armor with orange will help them 'pop'.

It absolutely will. For my infinity stuff I follow the Angel Giraldez method which isn't exactly zenithal PRIMING but it is pretty close to that technique just with color. It looks really rough and bad when you get done with just the airbrushing steps, but then the darklining and edge highlighting makes it amazing and it takes like 5 minutes.

Super 3
Dec 31, 2007

Sometimes the powers you get are shit.

krushgroove posted:

Question for those of you that zenithal prime: do you do any edge highlighting at all? I'm working on these red Eldar and zenithal primed them but wonder if edging the armor with orange will help them 'pop'.

Unrelated question about zenithal priming.

Are you just applying washes/thin layers of paint on top of this to keep the zenithal effect?

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro

Super 3 posted:

Unrelated question about zenithal priming.

Are you just applying washes/thin layers of paint on top of this to keep the zenithal effect?

You can do it that way, yeah. You can also just paint normally and use the zenithal effect as a guide for your future layers, so you know where to highlight and shade. You may lose the brunt of the initial effect but a little will still show through, and even if it doesn't you still had the guide there.

I like to do it largely becuase there might be months of me gaming with a model between priming and painting it, and zenithal primed models look pretty rad on their own.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look

JoshTheStampede posted:

It absolutely will. For my infinity stuff I follow the Angel Giraldez method which isn't exactly zenithal PRIMING but it is pretty close to that technique just with color. It looks really rough and bad when you get done with just the airbrushing steps, but then the darklining and edge highlighting makes it amazing and it takes like 5 minutes.

Great, thanks. This is about infantry, btw, I'm pretty comfortable with vehicles/bigger stuff (yay tanks) but not so much with infantry. I have some red ink on the way and will try gloss coating the infantry and doing some washes to do the blacklining (to save time).

Super 3 posted:

Unrelated question about zenithal priming.

Are you just applying washes/thin layers of paint on top of this to keep the zenithal effect?

You can do, I used Ghost Tints on the worm-type monster I posted earlier in the thread and paints on the kraken model. With the Ghost Tints (which are candy colors, which are basically inks in gloss medium) it was just black and white over grey, then the candies over most of the model:









With paint you have to do really light coats of the base color until you get the effect you want. You have to be patient because the color darkens as it dries so I try to do one coat over everything and see how it is before putting on any more. This is panel lining on vehicles with one coat of base color, the effect with zenithal priming is similar:

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro
Check either Angel Giraldez' facebook or Tom Schadle's blog (they use the same technique) and look for the tutorial on PanOceania blue armor. It's a super easy sort of zenithal technique for hard-armor infantry types that yields amazing results fast.

\/\/ He's under Studio Giraldez

JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Mar 24, 2015

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
I missed out on the first run of Angel's painting book, but I'm hoping to get a copy of it at the end of the month. Can't find Angel on Facebook but that Tom Schadle's blog is pretty sweet.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Sevatar incoming:






Possible the most :black101: model ever. Pure distilled grimdark.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
That's so drat gorgious. Last night I was putting the finishing touches on my breachers and I'm glad I didn't post them on this page :v: After spending a year on them I am convinced they look like poo poo.

krushgroove posted:

Question for those of you that zenithal prime: do you do any edge highlighting at all? I'm working on these red Eldar and zenithal primed them but wonder if edging the armor with orange will help them 'pop'.

Yep- edge highlight after you basecoat. I actually highlight several times throughout my painting process.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
That's what you needed input for re: painting a Salamander? You're a monster, Skarsnik.


And by that I mean it looks really, really good.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Fyrbrand posted:

That's what you needed input for re: painting a Salamander? You're a monster, Skarsnik.

hahaa, I was kinda expecting that.. Thanks for the help :unsmigghh:

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~
drat dude, that's dope as gently caress. Great paintjob on a stellar model.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Skarsnik posted:

Sevatar incoming:






Possible the most :black101: model ever. Pure distilled grimdark.

Owns. Seriously good.

Reminds me that I need to get him still.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




serious gaylord posted:

Owns. Seriously good.

Reminds me that I need to get him still.

cheers, and thanks for the blue recipe :)

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Skarsnik posted:

Sevatar incoming:






Possible the most :black101: model ever. Pure distilled grimdark.

Awesome. I picked one up at the FW booth at Adepticon this year - I don't think I can do it the justice you have, but hopefully it will be fun. Any problems with assembly?

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Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




berzerkmonkey posted:

Any problems with assembly?
No, its fairly simple. I kept the backpack off for painting, and kept the arm/weapon/cloak piece seperate till the end too.

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