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Some dogs will go on food strike for a few days. If he's fine in himself, leave him a couple of days and just continue to offer food and take it away if he doesn't eat it. Only offer dry food so it's not wasted if he turns his nose up. Make sure he isn't glutting himself on treats in the meantime, and as long as he seems healthy and happy just wait him out.
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Mar 24, 2015 15:48
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He's acting otherwise normal. Ate some peanut butter the other day with his pill just fine, so I know he WILL eat. The problem I've always had with him is that he's like beyond chilled out (this is why we adopted this particular dog) so acting normally for him might be seen as lethargic in another dog.
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Mar 24, 2015 15:53
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I had that issue with my dog last year. He suddenly just . . . wouldn't eat his food, or would only eat a tiny bit and then be totally uninterested in it. Not sure what caused it, and besides that, he was acting perfectly fine. I started using the kibble as treats and would eventually feed him dinner by getting him to do tricks and rewarding him. We were trying a variety of flavors for his kibble, and eventually found two that he will always eat, so now he eats normally.
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Mar 24, 2015 15:59
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Our dog goes through cycles of not caring about his food. He still accepts treats, though, so I know he is fine, I think he is just picky and spoiled from time to time because I used to take that as him being sick so I'd add some chicken broth to the food and mix it up as encouragement and now I think he expects to get that every time. If he accepts treats still, just don't worry. When he gets hungry, he will eat.
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Mar 24, 2015 20:34
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Thanks for the transport advice, guys. I bought buttloads of warm, soft blankies and a cosy looking carrier made for cars. I think she'll be relatively happy and definitely safe.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:38
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This might seem like an odd question, but is it possible for a dog to overexert themselves while playing? We adopted a pair of older terrier mixes and the male, Spike, loves his Kong. He will chase after it for hours on end, to the point where his breathing sounds like he's on the verge of a heart attack. I'm not trying to run him ragged but he just keeps bringing the thing back over and pawing at my legs to throw it again.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:49
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It absolutely is for some dogs. It sounds like it's up to you to step in and moderate his activity for him, since he is incapable of doing it himself.
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Mar 24, 2015 22:53
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Yeah, my border collie will run herself into heatstroke given half the chance. The ball goes up for a while when she gets to panting with her tongue all the way out.
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Mar 24, 2015 23:34
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Good to know. I'll start trying to settle him down when he's looking winded then.
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Mar 25, 2015 02:45
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Rangpur posted:This might seem like an odd question, but is it possible for a dog to overexert themselves while playing? We adopted a pair of older terrier mixes and the male, Spike, loves his Kong. He will chase after it for hours on end, to the point where his breathing sounds like he's on the verge of a heart attack. I'm not trying to run him ragged but he just keeps bringing the thing back over and pawing at my legs to throw it again. We see it all the time, especially with dogs prone to problems with their joints or airways. Dogs with pre-existing airway problems (whether they be brachycephalic or laryngeal paralysis or small fat dogs with tracheal collapse or whatever) definitely can get themselves worked up to the point of actually being in respiratory distress and needing emergency intervention. Dogs with joint problems will almost inevitably run themselves into lameness. Dogs are dumb as gently caress.
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Mar 25, 2015 10:27
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Topoisomerase posted:Dogs are dumb as gently caress. This should be added to the OP.
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Mar 25, 2015 16:17
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The Puppy and New Dog Owner Thread: Dogs are dumb as gently caress
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Mar 25, 2015 17:21
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Ron Swanson has been found in Dog form! https://www.petfinder.com/petdetail/31722989/
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Mar 28, 2015 20:05
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I really want a new dog, but feel that my lifestyle right now is not suitable for responsible pet ownership. I also know I tend to make mountains out of mole hills so I want y'alls opinion: I'm recently divorced and living on my own. I currently work all day and go to school at night, but thats going to change soon. I currently work 10-4ish and go to school. In about a month that will change to 10-4 firm and then to school 6-10 3 nights a week. I'm the boss, so bringing the dog to work shouldn't be an issue. I'm currently living in a guest home on a farm with plenty of space and am planning on moving into my own place this summer. While on the farm, I definitely have someone able to take the dog out while I'm out. I know right now, with the new business, I'm way to busy to be a dog owner. But in a few months when I'm more stable...?
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Mar 30, 2015 04:48
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Quick house breaking question: At the end of April I will be picking up my fiance and I's puppy and have been having a few thoughts about house breaking due to the exact situation. We live in an apartment with a small balcony on the ground floor but there is a bit of a walk to the nearest outside exit. I have also seen that you can buy the kind of astro turf pads for dogs to use as a toilet. My plan was to get one of those and split the house breaking up into three parts: 1. Train her to use the astro turf and only the astro turf to go to the bathroom 2. Once she has gotten this down move the slab of astro turf to the balcony and make sure she gets used to only using that to go to the bathroom so we can get a good handle on her signals when she wants to go 3. Once that is happening and she is a bit older remove the astro turf entirely and when she makes her signals take her outside to go to the toilet It makes sense to me because she won't be able to hold for long when she is young and I am still training her to only go in a place and on a texture that I want her to go on. We then change this so she will still only go on that texture but we move the place outside so she gets used to knowing that outside is the bathroom and then finally when she is old enough to hold it for a few minutes while we walk through the building to get outside she will already know that outside is where she goes and the astro turf will have trained her to know that grassy texture = poop and pee time. Has anyone tried this? Am I talking bollocks? Bonus 2 week old potato picture 
BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 17:03
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Place is likely to override texture. If you don't think you're up for making the trip fully outside every time, skip step 1 and have an extra dog toilet area permanently on your balcony.
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Mar 30, 2015 17:32
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BigPaddy posted:Quick house breaking question: Just take her outside from the get go. You may have to carry her in situations where you know you're approaching her limits of what she can hold, but get her used to it from the start. We live on 4th floor in a loft-style building with a *slow* cargo elevator and I had to run down the stairs several times with 20lbs Great Dane puppy. We then transitioned into keeping her busy/distracted while we waited and while there was the odd accident, it wasn't too hard.
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Mar 31, 2015 00:15
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OK outside from the start it is, getting images of carrying a peeing puppy and getting it all up the walls and everything 
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Mar 31, 2015 13:20
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Puppy is very, very unlikely to pee/poo on you. The quickest way to stop a puppy in process of housetraining from piddling is to scoop them up mid-flow. I'm house breaking a puppy right now 
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Mar 31, 2015 13:22
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Pup turned 1 (or somewhere around that, we aren't certain on actual birth date), went for his first vet checkup who assured us that he was incredibly healthy, perfect weight, clean teeth, no obvious issues, and is really well behaved. My overzealous care has paid off. Obligatory picture: 
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Mar 31, 2015 17:16
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Re: Apartment Puppy As everyone has been echoing, carry the pup outside to start. You'll probably end up having a few accidents in the hallway so make sure you're bringing nature's miracle (or similar) and paper towel with you on the way out. We found with Ellie that she was most likely to pee in the hallway at night before bed, so she was carried around that time for an additional two or three weeks after we had her walking herself for pees. Unsolicited advice: For the first few weeks tie the dog around your waist when you are doing anything other than staring at it for any amount of time. If the pup moves away from you its probably gonna piss. That little warning tug saved us a lot of accidents.
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Mar 31, 2015 17:49
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Math You posted:Unsolicited advice: For the first few weeks tie the dog around your waist when you are doing anything other than staring at it for any amount of time. If the pup moves away from you its probably gonna piss. That little warning tug saved us a lot of accidents. I am going to be working from home for the first week or so and this is a good idea thank you. I just hope she isn't just a brat and does it on purpose :p
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Mar 31, 2015 18:17
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BigPaddy posted:OK outside from the start it is, getting images of carrying a peeing puppy and getting it all up the walls and everything Puppies are smarter than babies...
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Mar 31, 2015 18:52
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BigPaddy posted:I am going to be working from home for the first week or so and this is a good idea thank you. I just hope she isn't just a brat and does it on purpose :p most likely she's just going to scream bloody murder because how loving dare you chain me to you dont you know who i am not that all puppies do this, of course. no sir.  little fucker 
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Mar 31, 2015 19:49
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We got a puppy - well, she's 6 months old - a few weeks ago but I think we're doing the housetraining wrong. We've been watching her carefully and if she looks like needing to go, or starts to squat down, we grab her and carry her outside to a pen. Problems are that she has just been scared by us grabbing and making noise at her. But also, she has got more and more anxious about the toilet pen downstairs since we got her. Now she just sniffs and circles instead of going to the toilet. We have upped the treats but she still doesn't like it. It's on concrete - maybe the urine has soaked in and she thinks it smells too strongly? I'm going to try washing the area as soon as I can. Do we need to try a less convenient but untarnished place? Also, she wakes up in the night, goes to the toilet in her inside area (cage opening into newspaper'd pen) then barks a lot. Is it ok to take the water away from the crate overnight? I saw a post somewhere about that recently but can't remember the verdict. A Pomeranian: 
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Mar 31, 2015 22:10
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Dogs go to the bathroom outside.
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Mar 31, 2015 22:28
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killerwhat posted:We've been watching her carefully and if she looks like needing to go, or starts to squat down, we grab her and carry her outside to a pen. Problems are that she has just been scared by us grabbing and making noise at her. Why are you making a noise at her? If you are waiting until she starts to go, you are already too late. Learn your dog's pee schedule so you can anticipate pee breaks. Learn your dog's body language so you can take her outside BEFORE she starts to go. killerwhat posted:But also, she has got more and more anxious about the toilet pen downstairs since we got her. Toilet pen? Dogs should pee outside. Pick one place to pee and have her go there every time. Don't bounce between 2 or more spots. That's gonna confuse the dog. killerwhat posted:maybe the urine has soaked in and she thinks it smells too strongly? I'm going to try washing the area as soon as I can. Dogs like to pee in places where they smell pee. killerwhat posted:Also, she wakes up in the night, goes to the toilet in her inside area (cage opening into newspaper'd pen) then barks a lot. Dogs should pee outside. Set an alarm to wake up every few hours and take dog outside to pee spot. Don't wait until she needs to pee. Don't let your dog pee inside. killerwhat posted:Is it ok to take the water away from the crate overnight? I saw a post somewhere about that recently but can't remember the verdict. Unless it's really hot and/or dry where the dogs sleeps, you probably don't need to give her access to water while sleeping. Let her get drinks during the night right after pee breaks.
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Mar 31, 2015 22:55
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Tramii posted:Toilet pen? Dogs should pee outside. Pick one place to pee and have her go there every time. Don't bounce between 2 or more spots. That's gonna confuse the dog. Sorry, I mean that it's outside - one of these in the concrete alleyway outside our front door. We do take her out when she hasn't been for a while or is sniffing about etc - but then she won't go to the toilet. We can spend a whole hour just repeatedly taking her outside and waiting, and she rarely goes even if she obviously needs to. During the day unfortunately she gets to practise going inside, because we're at work (someone comes to take her out in the middle of the day). We tried actually locking her in the crate but then she had accidents in there.
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Apr 1, 2015 07:39
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Get a smaller crate, so she has room to turn around and stand up and that's it. Go back to basics, take the dog from crate every hour to toilet and reward and play if she does go. If she doesn't, back in crate for 30 min. Right now she has far too much freedom and you are setting yourselves up to deal with dog piss and poo poo in your house forever. How old is she? What another poster said above is spot on. Right now you are reacting to her when she's ready started to go. With housetraining and general puppy or dog training you need to be active, not reactive. Use the crate for short term confinement to predict when she needs to go. Use a pen with a artifical grass section or a paving slab or whatever for long term confinement. Right now you are not teaching her the house rules, you're letting her make mistakes and then you're trying to fix it. Fraction fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Apr 1, 2015 |
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Apr 1, 2015 07:45
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killerwhat posted:Sorry, I mean that it's outside - one of these in the concrete alleyway outside our front door. My dog's indoor pissage did not improve until we stopped letting him stay indoors when we were at work. For us, this meant shifting him from an indoor only doggy daycare where he could piss and poo poo to his heart's content wherever he wanted, to an outdoor daycare where he had no choice but to eliminate outside. Until we did this, he would go outside maybe 70% of the time but would still pee on the floor sometimes. Two months of this daycare was enough to snap him out of the indoor/outdoor confusion and he now sits by the door and whinges when he wants to go for a pee. He's at home during the day now and while it's not smooth sailing and there have been a couple of accidents, that's mostly down to us accidentally leaving out too much water (which he totally sculled down) and then peeing by the outside door than because he's okay peeing indoors.
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Apr 1, 2015 08:03
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What's the consensus on slip lead leashes for leash training a puppy? Our 4 month old border collie is slowly improving on leash walking but still pulls a lot if left to her own devices and especially goes fuckin nuts if she sees kids or people she wants to meet. She is getting better about this but I'm worried she could hurt herself with the pulling and sudden lunges. Right now we use a normal 6 foot leash and collar and are training her by changing directions and holding the leash by the side of the person walking her. The slip lead leash idea came from a petco trainer who has been working with her at their open puppy parties. Going off reviews on amazon they sound pretty good, I'm just curious if there's any drawbacks. I think I remember harnesses are not so good for leash training because it can confuse the dog. I'll have to research this more on Google but I think our dog is submissive peeing. I thought she would grow out of it but she still empties her bladder regularly for anyone who she runs into that isn't me and sometimes my girlfriend. Any tips?
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Apr 1, 2015 16:38
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adebisi lives posted:What's the consensus on slip lead leashes for leash training a puppy? Our 4 month old border collie is slowly improving on leash walking but still pulls a lot if left to her own devices and especially goes fuckin nuts if she sees kids or people she wants to meet. She is getting better about this but I'm worried she could hurt herself with the pulling and sudden lunges. Right now we use a normal 6 foot leash and collar and are training her by changing directions and holding the leash by the side of the person walking her. Most dogs on a slip leash will just keep on pulling until they choke themselves. it's also a really good way to change how a dog thinks about new people, from an excited to aggressive response due to feeling pain/discomfort whenever she pulls to see them. Dogs aren't very good at making the connections we want them to make. A harness would actually be much better; dogs can learn to differentiate between pulling on harness and not pulling on a flat collar, or you can also use a harness and the stop/start method to more securely teach her an appropriate response to exciting stimulus.
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Apr 1, 2015 16:42
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I wouldn't use a slip lead as a regular leash. I only use mine at competitions where I have to put on and remove it pretty quickly where a regular buckle collar wouldn't work. I'd get an easy walk harness or a gentle leader to work on the pulling instead.
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Apr 1, 2015 18:19
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Speaking of leash pulling, I've been making slow progress on it. I wasn't able to do much in the winter time without my fingers falling off but now that it's spring I can handle walking and feeding much better. He doesn't pull like crazy anymore, but sometimes he gets overexcited and will just lunge at something. I usually just wait him out or switch directions. I figure the next part will be to teach him a proper heel so he gets used to walking beside me instead of in front of me. I have just been focusing on getting him to stop pulling at all so far. Also, how do I deal with the occasional human or dog that gets him really riled up in play mode or when he just stops moving and plunks his rear end down on the street and stares at them? Waving hotdogs in their faces at that point barely registers. I usually try to get him to the other side of the street and wait for the distraction to pass.
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Apr 1, 2015 18:53
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adebisi lives posted:
Nonsense. As mentioned in the other posts, most dogs will just choke themselves out on a slip lead. A harness on the other, (the type with the buckle/attachment in front), will make it much easier to control the dog, as you control their balance. This doesn't mean that you can stop rewarding for correct behaviour, but it makes it much easier to achieve that behaviour (and takes a lot less physical effort).
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Apr 1, 2015 18:56
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You can also use a martingale or limited slip that'll stop shy of choking the dog out.
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Apr 1, 2015 20:35
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Fraction posted:use a harness and the stop/start method to more securely teach her an appropriate response to exciting stimulus. Can you go into detail about this? My puppy is listening really well most of the time on the leash but once a person or a dog is in range she wont listen for a gently caress.
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Apr 2, 2015 02:05
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We got a new puppy (as well as fostering another puppy from the same litter to help out our rescue) and things are going well so far. Housebreaking, basic obedience, socialization all seems to be going well. The puppies are 11 weeks old. My question is about play time with our adult dog. Our adult dog (Scout) has been with us over a year. He was a rescue dog, and he came to us with some significant dog anxiety that we've worked on with him quite a bit. He's still shy with other dogs but his primary response is to escape uncomfortable situations, and he's been very good with that. When we got the puppies home, we carefully introduced them and we're seeing really good interactions between them. My only concern is now that they're more comfortable, he's starting to play with the puppies when they're rough housing. He'll play bow and chase back and forth and gently nudge them around with his snout, but he's also started mouthing them. He's been very gentle with them, but I worry that he'll escalate. His behaviour otherwise satisfies me that he's comfortable in their play sessions and he's in control, but is there an acceptable level of play between adult dogs and puppies? As a thank you, here are cute pictures.  Scout checking out the puppies when we first started introductions.  Exhausted pudge butts
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Apr 3, 2015 21:41
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I've been to six or seven pet stores and they all seem to stock the same harness, a pretty basic looking and cheap adjustable nylon one. I was just curious if any of you pet wizards had a recommendation for a slightly 'better' brand one, if such a thing exists. Preferably not leather. These ones looks functional, but they're so inexpensive that I'm a little wary. It's for a 5 month old Jindo puppy, probably not 20 lbs yet, with a 20 inch chest diameter, so it's good if it's something she can grow into.
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Apr 4, 2015 06:49
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DrakeriderCa posted:We got a new puppy (as well as fostering another puppy from the same litter to help out our rescue) and things are going well so far. Housebreaking, basic obedience, socialization all seems to be going well. The puppies are 11 weeks old. My question is about play time with our adult dog. It sounds like normal friendly but rough play to me. Lots of dogs which are nervous of other dogs seem fine with puppies. My housemate's puppy (9 weeks tomorrow) was getting shoved about by a friend's year old dog yesterday and she kept running back for more until he accidentally stood on her foot. They're pretty good at opening their mouths and screaming the house down when hurt, in my experience! Just make sure that they aren't unsupervised at any point.
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Apr 4, 2015 08:55
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