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Proposed Budget: $10-17k New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 door sedan, possibly a hatchback or crossover How will you be using the car?: Wife's daily commuter car, weekend trips for both of us What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, comfort, not being completely gigantic, backup camera a plus My wife is 5'4", I'm 6'6" with very long legs. We're looking to replace her aged shitbox with something we can both be comfortable in. I love my car, a 2008 Mazda3 hatchback, but it is stick shift which she can't drive. I also barely fit in it; it isn't the most comfortable thing for longer trips. So we want the new car to be something we'll both be comfortable driving, so that we can stop taking my car everywhere. We're mostly looking at sedans, and she's vetoed my vote for an American land barge, on the grounds that she doesn't want to drive or park it. We went to a Carmax yesterday just to sit in a bunch of vehicles, and I found a recent Nissan Altima to have an astonishing amount of leg room. On the passenger side, I can get pretty close to extending my legs fully. Drivers side of a car is always dependent on the center console design, since my knee will be wedged between it and the steering wheel. The Altima was great here too. I'm a little concerned about the Altima though, because I'm seeing a number of reports of problematic steering, car requiring a constant & obnoxious amount of drift correction at higher speeds. Anyone familiar with this? Other than that, Nissan's CVTs are mostly working now, yes? Obviously, haven't test driven it yet. There also seem to be an unusual number of 2014 Altimas with very low miles (like 1 - 10k) available in our area, not sure what that may mean. Any recommendations on other cars we should be checking out? ~2012 Camrys and Accords were both sort of acceptable but not great, as were 2015 and 2016 Mazda6 (no used ones floating around at this Carmax). We also checked out a CRV (terrible inside), and a CX-5 was sort of OK but really is more car than we need.
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Mar 22, 2015 16:18
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Most modern Nissans are built like poo poo. Guess thats what happens when your Japanese car company goes French. I will say the absolutely giganticest front seat I've sat in is in a new nissan versa, but the rest of the car is terrible. That is more than exterior size doesn't really tell you about interior size. Can you find a Pontiac G8 in your price range? It is a little on the land barge size, but it isn't like the Altima is small.
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Mar 22, 2015 17:23
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I doubt she'll like RWD in the snow (live in Wisconsin), but thanks. Not seeing many for sale around here anyway. And no, the Altima isn't exactly small, but it seemed to me that the way the body and windows were shaped gave you a better sense of where the corners of the car were than you get in many others.
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Mar 23, 2015 02:27
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Raised by Hamsters posted:I doubt she'll like RWD in the snow (live in Wisconsin), but thanks. Not seeing many for sale around here anyway. And no, the Altima isn't exactly small, but it seemed to me that the way the body and windows were shaped gave you a better sense of where the corners of the car were than you get in many others. What about the Taurus? That has an AWD option, though I haven't sat in a new one. That said RWd with good snows and modern ESC will be better than FWD or AWD with all-seasons.
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Mar 23, 2015 02:33
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nm posted:That said RWd with good snows and modern ESC will be better than FWD or AWD with all-seasons.
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Mar 23, 2015 16:56
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FilthyImp posted:This is being said so much that I, a lifelong Californian, have it ingrained in my brain. Maybe it belongs in the op/as a thread title. http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a3091/the-myth-of-the-all-powerful-all-wheel-drive-15202862/ quote:"I'd rather have a Camry on four new snow tires than the best all-wheel-drive vehicle on all-season tires," said one tester who requested anonymity.
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Mar 23, 2015 17:00
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Hi, I'm going to be moving out of a major city with oodles of public transportation to... the opposite of that. I haven't owned a car for the past five years, since it was far more of an expense to maintain one in the city than I could afford, and I'm very excited to drive again. My previous car was a Toyota Echo that my parents sold to me, and I loved that dumb little car. Fairly quick and fun to drive, excellent gas mileage, and it was going strong when I sold it at >180,000 miles. They don't make them anymore, obv. Could someone recommend some makes/models that might fit my needs? My husband and I will both need cars, and I get the lower budget to work with since he'll have more of a commute/need for reliability. I'll be a ~grad student~. Proposed Budget: $3500-6500 New or Used: Used Body Style: Compact/Subcompact/Hatchback How will you be using the car?: Primarily commuting to school, errands, 600-800mi round trips about 4 times/year. Sometimes I like to ride around when the weather is nice (not BFC approved) Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? I actually like the opposite of this- aside from an AC and stereo, I like to keep my car pretty simple and don't care for gizmos. I dislike cruise control/nav stuff, but I think my price range is going to get rid of a lot of this anyway. I'm looking to get more into doing maintenance and simple repairs myself, so I would like a car that doesn't keep everything behind a layer of plastic. 5 speeds are fine. What aspects are most important to you? I'd like a car that hits that sweet spot between not-mind-numbing-to-drive and reliable. Good mileage is an added bonus. I realize the budget is pretty limiting, so unfortunately I'll lean toward reliability as more important than fun. Maybe I should just go for the nicest Civic I can find in my range?
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Mar 23, 2015 20:01
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Nicest manual trans Ford Focus or Chevy Cruze you can find.
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Mar 23, 2015 20:44
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BadSamaritan posted:Maybe I should just go for the nicest Civic I can find in my range? Yeah, a Civic or Toyota Corolla is the way to go. You could probably snag a decent Hyundai or Ford Focus in that price range as well. They will have less of a premium than a Civic or Corolla.
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Mar 23, 2015 20:44
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Throatwarbler posted:Nicest manual trans Ford Focus or Chevy Cruze you can find. Can you get a cruze for 6500?
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Mar 23, 2015 20:57
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nm posted:Can you get a cruze for 6500? It came out in 2009 so yeah I imagine so.
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Mar 23, 2015 20:59
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BadSamaritan posted:Proposed Budget: $3500-6500 Mazda Protege 5 on the low end of your price range. Suzuki SX4, Scion xB & xA in the middle. Scion xD, early Honda Fit, Mazda 3 on the high end. Hyundai Elantra throughout. Nissan Versa, Toyota Matrix/Pontiac Vibe in the middle and high end. Corolla/Civic/Sentra if you don't mind a sedan. Mazda 3 and Protege sedans are cheaper than the hatches, too.
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Mar 23, 2015 21:02
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Throatwarbler posted:It came out in 2009 so yeah I imagine so. Thanks for making me feel old.
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Mar 23, 2015 21:27
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nm posted:Thanks for making me feel old.  Well I feel kind of dumb now because I went and checked KBB, and while it's possible to get them for around $6500 they don't go for much less than that. Somehow the Cruze is holding residual value remarkably well, for any car, let alone a GM compact sedan. SO maybe it's not the best bet after all.
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Mar 23, 2015 22:13
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I'm looking at getting a 99 Grand Am with a rather innocuous carfax and under 100k miles for my first car. Dealership is asking 4k, KBB Dealer price is $3150. Should I try to haggle this down, if so, what should I shoot for?
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Mar 24, 2015 19:57
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You really shouldn't be buying your first car, especially a 99 Grand Am, from a dealer. How much cash do you have to spend on a car?
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Mar 24, 2015 20:46
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:I'm looking at getting a 99 Grand Am with a rather innocuous carfax and under 100k miles for my first car. Dealership is asking 4k, KBB Dealer price is $3150. Should I try to haggle this down, if so, what should I shoot for? You should not buy a Grand Am. Grand PRIX, sure, Grand AM, no. That car would have to be loving flawless and WAY under 100k to be worth 3 grand. Shoot for 2000, or better yet a different car. edit: http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/pontiac/grand_am/1999/single-page/ Carsurvey.org was the closest thing to True Delta before True Delta. They're still the best you're likely to find for cars before the mid 2000s. Any car you consider in your price range, look on there and verify that it is mostly smiley faces. Or, for your price you can find a very nice Accord and not worry about it. VideoTapir fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Mar 24, 2015 |
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Mar 24, 2015 21:31
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skipdogg posted:You really shouldn't be buying your first car, especially a 99 Grand Am, from a dealer. I'd like to go 5k or under. Was considering going up to maybe 10k if i got a something at Carmax, but it does make me nervous to spend that much for my first car (and everything at that price from carmax is like 3k+ over bluebook). And the Grand Am in question is 72,000 miles, so, a good amount under 100, and only 1 previous owner. I just kind of don't want to deal with the informality of a craigslist deal, I only have access to a car like 1 day a week, if that, so I just don't want to deal with bullshit and I have social anxiety (mildly spergy) and really don't like meeting up with randoms. The last 2 times I tried to buy things off craigslist, one was a bike with a broken frame duct-taped together (unmentioned and unpictured in the ad), and the other time I bought a desk chair I thought was wildly uncomfortable just so it wouldn't be awkward (didn't help that the seller was unexpectedly a hot 30 year old woman who seemed like she could teach me things and the person i talked to on the phone was like a 60 year old man).
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Mar 24, 2015 21:59
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:I just kind of don't want to deal with the informality of a craigslist deal, I only have access to a car like 1 day a week, if that, so I just don't want to deal with bullshit Going to low-end car dealers is not a good way to avoid bullshit, FYI. quote:and I have social anxiety (mildly spergy) and really don't like meeting up with randoms. Beats car salesmen. quote:The last 2 times I tried to buy things off craigslist, one was a bike with a broken frame duct-taped together (unmentioned and unpictured in the ad), and the other time I bought a desk chair I thought was wildly uncomfortable just so it wouldn't be awkward (didn't help that the seller was unexpectedly a hot 30 year old woman who seemed like she could teach me things and the person i talked to on the phone was like a 60 year old man). Don't agree to see anything that doesn't have multiple good pictures in the ad. Pick 3 to 4 likely candidate cars, and arrange to see as many of them in one day as you can. Don't buy anything until you've seen at least two cars. Ideally you will never see the seller again. Don't even concern yourself with who they are (unless they seem like a tweaker or street racer idiot or somesuch...something that would give you pause about the quality of the vehicle). Concern yourself with the condition of the car and the correctness of the paperwork, and THAT IS ALL.
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Mar 24, 2015 22:06
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Used car salesmen, especially in your price range, are going to be far more sleazy and bullshitty than most people you'll meet selling cars on craigslist.
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Mar 24, 2015 22:09
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If you see a craigslist ad with really detailed disclosure of the car's problems, and mentions of service records and such, says nothing about trades, doesn't keyword spam (put a bunch of words at the end of the ad not related to the car being sold), and really out in the open about CASH NO BULLSHIT, you can probably count on it being a low-bullshit transaction. If you're really worried about that, just look for those.
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Mar 24, 2015 22:14
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VideoTapir posted:Going to low-end car dealers is not a good way to avoid bullshit, FYI. I know car salesman aren't known for being beacons of their community, but I know the transaction is relatively impersonal (other than commission they may or not make) and that makes me more comfortable. This isn't a low-end used dealer lot I'm looking at buying from. Seemingly well-respected dealership (have like 10 locations and they are all over 4 stars on google reviews) that sells mostly new and certified pre-owned. Another big thing, I don't have a lot of flexibility when it comes to meeting randoms on CL as I don't own a car and the one I borrow occasionally is almost always being used unless it's a time where I couldn't reasonably expect a CL meeting to take place. And when you include arranging a mechanic to look at it in a way that works for me and the seller, I might as well go door to door and ask people if I can buy their car in my neighborhood. jarjarbinksfan621 fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Mar 24, 2015 |
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Mar 24, 2015 22:23
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:I know car salesman aren't known for being beacons of their community, but I know the transaction is relatively impersonal (other than commission they may or not make) and that makes me more comfortable. This isn't a low-end used dealer lot I'm looking at buying from. Seemingly well-respected dealership (have like 10 locations and they are all over 4 stars on google reviews) that sells mostly new and certified pre-owned. And you will be accordingly ripped off for that convenience on a cheap used car from a dealer. Just so you know. Is there a reason you can't keep on as you are and save enough money to make going to a dealer not such a bad prospect. Are you averse to having a loan or can you really not afford one? You've said at times your price point was under 4 grand, then went and said up to 10, what's the deal with that? That's kind of a huge difference in your options, quality, and not getting hosed over, particularly if you're unwilling to go private party.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:04
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Hey guys, a question. This probably won't be for another year or too, but after this winter in Massachusetts, I'm thinking I want an suv or crossover or something, for awd and ground clearance. I have a 2014 Mazda 3,and I love it, but I'm starting to think that I'm now looking for more of a luxury type vehicle as I get older. What are thoughts of picking up an older Lexus? I've read a lot about the reliability of them, but they can also be expensive to maintain, but I don't if that just comes from having it done at a dealership. I've been looking at rx330/350s specifically. I've seen quite a few 2006-2008 around the $15k mark, which is around the range I'd be looking for. I guess I just want to know if I'm barking up the wrong tree, and am open to other suggestions.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:25
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The RX will be reliable, boring as hell, and is soccer mom approved! I mean, what do you want out of an SUV?
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Mar 25, 2015 00:44
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IRQ posted:And you will be accordingly ripped off for that convenience on a cheap used car from a dealer. Just so you know. I'm definitely averse to a car loan, but I could also afford to pay one easily at the present. The problem is, I don't have the greatest job security because of my depression, social retardation, and being completely unqualified by company standards for my customer service heavy job. So, I'm uncomfortable taking a loan for anything I could not cover from my bank account. It seems like unless you're buying new from a dealer, if poo poo hits the fan, it's probably on you, anyway. I've considered paying the super premium and going with carmax because the good things I read about their cold, corporate guarantees. Otherwise, I figure I might as well hedge my bets and buy something somewhat inexpensive.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:56
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nm posted:The RX will be reliable, boring as hell, and is soccer mom approved! Mainly reliability, awd/4wd, comfortable, ground clearance, somewhere around the 15 grand mark. And not too big. I know the lexus is boring as poo poo, it's just what keeps coming up when I look for reliable older luxury suvs. Honestly I'm not sure. I keep going back and forth between wanting to have something comfy and whatnot, or more utilitarian like a subaru, but I hear iffy things about their reliability. I guess I'm just spitballing.
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Mar 25, 2015 01:01
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Seriously, break out of your shell or have someone else buy the loving car for you. Cheap cars at dealers, regardless of whether it is a "good" or a "bad" dealer are absolute poo poo. These cars were turned in my someone who got $500 for a $1500 car on trade because either they couldn't sell it or were lazy. The dealer now wants $3000 for a $1500 pontiac. These are old cars and most of them have had many owners. If they have 1 owner, you lose the one many advantage to one owner: maintenance history and sizing up the owner. Dealers don't do any real inspections on these cars after auction because they don't do them on really any car. Yet, these cars will have far more problems as they are old, were unloved, etc. They probably do less because these cars are not really bought to sell, but bought to get people in the showroom with oh my god, $3000 car! Or they are a BHPH lot and will actually refuse to sell you the car for cash. At this price, the thing that matters is not brand or model (unless it is a biturbo), but how well the car was taken car of. The person who cares about a car and treats it correctly, probably won't trade it for $500, but try to sell it on CL for $3000 (and take less). That is the car you want. This stuff all matters less with newer cars as neglect can only do so much damage to a leased 3 year old car. after a decade, it is all that matters. I know the big scary real world is terrifying, but it is not worth spending 1/3 more for a worse car. Go out of CL, find some nice looking cars and check them out. My CL car transactions have involved about 10 minutes of actual contact with another human being. These people are also, far, far less likely to take advantage of you and use your MH problems against you. You are a used car salesman's wet dream and he will sell you a geo metro for $4500. A Proper Uppercut posted:Mainly reliability, awd/4wd, comfortable, ground clearance, somewhere around the 15 grand mark. And not too big. I know the lexus is boring as poo poo, it's just what keeps coming up when I look for reliable older luxury suvs. For a reliable subaru: Buy any 6-cyl Buy any non-turbo made after 2010 Avoid all turbos. Every single subaru issue can be traced back to the EJ25 motor. The pre-2010 non-turbos had a poo poo head gasket (Which, if you're not dumb and stop when the car overheats, will cost you $1000 and if you replace it with an MLS gasket, you'll never worry about again. It will happen around or after 100k mi). The turbos break engines. Everything else is very reliable. Subaru isn't statistically one of the more reliable car brands for no reason. Honestly, my next question was why not just a subaru outback? Most lux SUVs really don't have much going for them over a highly speced OB. It isn't like you're getting sharp handling or screaming fast engines. nm fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 25, 2015 01:09
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Hell, I wouldn't go for that Pontiac regardless. Grand ams were notorious piles of poo poo. Bad car, bad price, bad seller, just a bad idea all around.
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Mar 25, 2015 01:28
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I was definitely looking at outback before I starting looking at Lexus for some reason. Thanks for that info, seriously. I'll probably looking into the subarus some more. Lexus definitely isn't my style but I also get the appeal of a real nice comfy interior. I see some 3.6 outbacks in my area around the 16k mark, so I'm definitely going to keep it high on the list.
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Mar 25, 2015 01:46
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I'm looking for my first care and I've nailed it down to four different choices. I'm not really picky about specifics, I just want something that's reliable to get to work because I don't know car These are the choices, with the Carfax reports too. Everything seems fine to me (personal owners, no accidents reported) but I don't want to be overlooking anything major. 2008 Honda Civic hybrid, $8700 http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=DLR_3&vin=JHMFA36228S025983 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS $9600 http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=DLR_3&vin=5NPET4AC4AH649933 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS $8600 http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=DLR_3&vin=5NPEU46F26H010649 2010 Mazda 5 $10600 http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?partner=DLR_3&vin=JM1CR2W36A0367227
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Mar 25, 2015 13:23
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So, I went to a dealership today to look at a 1998 Crown Vic with 92k miles. It seems like a decent deal. $2500 sticker and $3000 out the door after taxes and stuff (does that sound right?). Tires looked new, everything was relatively clean. The only issue was that the driver window controls couldn't control the right rear window (window worked from the right rear) and there was a check engine light. I had to go, but the salesman said they would run the codes and get back to me. He said that it was nothing and the electronics just had to be reset and the check engine light is off now. Does that sound right? I did inform him that I was going to get it checked out by a mechanic, so he's aware I won't be buying it with major issues regardless.
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Mar 25, 2015 19:39
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:Tires looked new, everything was relatively clean. That's what a quick detail does to any car that isn't smashed up. quote:The only issue was that the driver window controls couldn't control the right rear window (window worked from the right rear) Probably a wiring problem, which could be minor or could be indicative of other problems. Hard to say. quote:and there was a check engine light. I had to go, but the salesman said they would run the codes and get back to me. He said that it was nothing and the electronics just had to be reset and the check engine light is off now. Does that sound right?  No! Translation: I hard reset the computer so that it temporarily cleared the codes long enough for me to sell you this car (and maybe long enough for your mechanic to inspect), and as you're driving it home after signing the paperwork the CEL will come right back. Even if what he said was legit, you don't want a car that throws CELs that require "the electronics" to be reset.
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Mar 25, 2015 20:29
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The switch on the driver's side is probably broken, hence why the passenger switch still worked. If it were my $3000 car I would just ignore it. When do you ever need to roll down the passenger side rear window from the driver's seat? I've never had to. For the CEL, if the car starts and runs without any obvious leaks, billowing smoke, engine bay fire, etc, it probably *is* nothing other than some emissions related poo poo or a loose gas cap. It's a $3,000 car, you could probably buy one of those Chinese scan gauges for a few bucks and see if you can read the code, but even that's a lot of effort at this price point.
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Mar 25, 2015 20:42
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Throatwarbler posted:The switch on the driver's side is probably broken, hence why the passenger switch still worked. If it were my $3000 car I would just ignore it. When do you ever need to roll down the passenger side rear window from the driver's seat? I've never had to. When the AC's busted and you want some air flow. It will probably be an easy repair, and switches like that are usually cheap. Hell, it might just need contacts cleaned or something re-soldered.
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Mar 25, 2015 20:45
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Guinness posted:
So, you think I should just forget about this car? I figure if I get it checked out and something minor is wrong, I'll try to haggle the fix off the price, and if something major is wrong I just won't buy it. I don't really know anything about cars, are you saying the CEL could be indicative of some major issue that a mechanic could easily miss on a pre-purchase inspection? Also, another small worry, the AC and Heat worked, but they seemed excessively loud. I'm not sure if that's indicative of an issue or if it's supposed to be that way in that old-rear end big car. The carfax looks pretty good, after 30,000 miles it has recorded service from a ford dealership every couple thousand miles or so, one as recent as 82k miles (it's at 92k). jarjarbinksfan621 fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 25, 2015 21:18
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Proposed Budget: 20k New or Used: Either Body Style: Crossover, looking at a Ford Escape right now How will you be using the car?: Short (10 - 15 minute) commute to work every day, towing a U Haul trailer or boat trailer a couple times a year, longer (an hour or so) trips on the highway once or twice a month. What aspects are most important to you? I'm looking for reliability, better gas mileage than I'm getting now (shouldn't be too hard, I'm getting like 16-18 mpg), and an aux port so I can finally listen to my iPod. And I like the crossover body type because I prefer to be higher off the ground and having 5 seats + some storage space. So like I said, I'm looking at Ford Escapes right now because I had one in high school that I really liked. I've got a car worth around 4k for trade in according to KBB, 5k for down payment, and any loan less than 12k to pay off over 2-3 years is well within my means; so I should be fine for high teens to 20k in terms of price. Is there any reason I should be avoiding recent Escapes, or is there another make of crossovers that I should be looking at? I don't know much about cars, so I'm trying to minimize my chances of buying something that will need extra work or maintenance done. Also, what's the deal with 'certified pre-owned'? A post a couple pages back labeled them a scam, do they usually have terms to the warranty that gently caress you over?
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Mar 25, 2015 23:08
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:I had to go, but the salesman said they would run the codes and get back to me. He said that it was nothing and the electronics just had to be reset and the check engine light is off now. Does that sound right? I did inform him that I was going to get it checked out by a mechanic, so he's aware I won't be buying it with major issues regardless. When your car's computer finds something wrong with one of your car's systems due to a sensor reading which doesn't make sense, it lights up the check engine light on your dash, which is supposed to warn the driver that something is wrong with your car and that it needs to be looked at. Disconnecting the battery turns off the computer, which temporarily turns off the check engine light, and doesn't fix the cause of the problem. After driving the car for a while, the check engine light most likely will turn back on because the issue didn't get fixed. The dealer very likely knows that there is some problem with the car, but doesn't want to put the effort and money into fixing it. jarjarbinksfan621 posted:I don't really know anything about cars, are you saying the CEL could be indicative of some major issue that a mechanic could easily miss on a pre-purchase inspection? It's not something that a mechanic could easily miss. I'm not an experienced car mechanic, but a competent mechanic, noticing that the check engine light is on, should be able to read out from the car's computer what sensor reading went awry, and most of the time should be able to diagnose the cause of that faulty sensor reading, assuming that it isn't a particularly nebulous problem. The entire purpose of this computerized diagnostic system is to make it easier for mechanics to diagnose and fix problems with cars. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Mar 26, 2015 |
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Mar 26, 2015 00:30
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silence_kit posted:The dealer very likely knows that there is some problem with the car, but doesn't want to put the effort and money into fixing it. Do you think I'm pissing away $100-$150 if I get this particular car checked out by a mechanic? Isn't there a good chance that a CEL indicates something that is a minor (i.e. inexpensive) fix?
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Mar 26, 2015 02:34
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:Do you think I'm pissing away $100-$150 if I get this particular car checked out by a mechanic? Isn't there a good chance that a CEL indicates something that is a minor (i.e. inexpensive) fix? I bought an Isuzu rodeo at 70k and drove it to 180k, it had a check engine light on the entire time. It was much more reliable than the Honda Accord I drive now.
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Mar 26, 2015 03:00
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