Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Mr-Spain
Aug 27, 2003

Bullshit... you can be mine.
C70 vert with a stick for sale in houston, dunno if it's a rare thing for parts or whatever.

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4945125043.html

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Helping my dad look for a second hand V70 to buy. We've found a possible candidate:
2013 V70 II D3 (136hp), 36k miles, the mid range trim level + a lot of extras.

Is there anything I should watch out for with Volvos in this range (age, model, engine)?
Is the D3 136hp enough to haul the 1.8 tonne car + trailer (gotta haul poo poo sometimes) comfortably?

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.

MrOnBicycle posted:

Helping my dad look for a second hand V70 to buy. We've found a possible candidate:
2013 V70 II D3 (136hp), 36k miles, the mid range trim level + a lot of extras.

Is there anything I should watch out for with Volvos in this range (age, model, engine)?
Is the D3 136hp enough to haul the 1.8 tonne car + trailer (gotta haul poo poo sometimes) comfortably?

114 was enough for a 1.4 tonne 240 comfortably, and they were rated to tow 3300 lbs.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

atomicthumbs posted:

114 was enough for a 1.4 tonne 240 comfortably, and they were rated to tow 3300 lbs.

Cool, thanks.
FOund some more comments about it and people seem really happy with the D3 engine. The MPG is pretty great as well.

Mathturbator
Oct 12, 2004
Funny original quote
I'm considering buying a new XC60, but safety is a top priority for me and all the EURONCAP ratings are from 2009, and they don't even test autonomous emergency braking.

Volvo states precious little about the abilities of the system fitted, and the dealers around here have no idea once you start pushing for details above "sometimes it will slow you down enough". Does anyone know how well it performs? I'm interested in both urban and inter-urban. I'm also in Europe, if that matters.

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.

Mathturbator posted:

I'm considering buying a new XC60, but safety is a top priority for me and all the EURONCAP ratings are from 2009, and they don't even test autonomous emergency braking.

Volvo states precious little about the abilities of the system fitted, and the dealers around here have no idea once you start pushing for details above "sometimes it will slow you down enough". Does anyone know how well it performs? I'm interested in both urban and inter-urban. I'm also in Europe, if that matters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DBf8GBVmME

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5MR2S2K5iM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzCSyR-zhxM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNRV4fCqxoc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VKo-7VMh44U

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNi17YLnZpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcJ9xgBZJdI

~vision 2020~

atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Mar 31, 2015

Mathturbator
Oct 12, 2004
Funny original quote
Thanks! That was really helpful (except those last two videos though). The first video is easily the most informative I've seen from a car company.

But compare that to this test of the 2014 VW Passat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9NzAiEu3fw and the Volvo system seems a generation or two behind. Only active below 18 Mph and speed differential less than 9 mph is not impressive. I hope that they upgraded the system since 2008, but I want to know for sure before buying. The car would come with Active Cruise Control which can do sort of the same thing from higher speeds, as I understand it.

I've written to Volvo and asked them about it.

Edit: I found the owner's manuals online, and they are very good. The system I'm asking about here is the Collision Warning with Auto Brake system, and that should indeed be more effective than the City Safe Assist. It's still a bit short on details, but we'll see if Volvo sends me something good.

Edit again: Found it! The system can avoid a collision if the speed difference is 21 mph or less. That's pretty good, I think?

Mathturbator fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Mar 31, 2015

skylineboy08
Nov 12, 2010
gently caress these bolts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-wheel-hub-mounting-bolt-4-required-per-hub-1387892

I went to get them out and the teeth sheered off of the last brand new bolt on the 2nd front wheel hub when redoing the 850 wheel bearings. We ended up cutting the head off and drilling the bolt out

Also a word of caution, don't buy Centric re manufactured wheel bearings. Of the two that went on the 850, passenger side was howling like it had 200k on it and the drivers side was starting to growl at low speed. Also my dad has Centric remans on his late 80s buick (an entirely different unit ofc) and one of his is also starting to howl above 30mph. All previously mentioned wheel bearings are < 2500mi old. Any who, the chinabearing Valu Pros from rockauto felt incredibly well made and were worth the gamble for now. Hopefully I'm not changing a 3rd set of wheel bearings in 3 months. If it goes that way I'm just going to take it in the rear end for the FAG or some other brand of bearing I can guarantee will be good.

fake edit: Where has rockauto been and why was I so stubborn to start using it?

Knot My President!
Jan 10, 2005

Project car's gotta go. :( Anybody know where I should even list it? How much I should list it for?

Here's a spreadsheet with some of the stuff that's been done to it:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BimtqVtJ1YhEJYczwVIlqFzOyQJVJIR-WQSHoI2VuzQ/edit?usp=sharing

tl;dr 1984 244t with (in the last 10-15k miles) fully gasketed/cleaned '94 B230FT, LH2.4 + TLAO chips, 3" exhaust, 16g, 25mm sways, ev14 52lb injectors, m47, completely redone suspension, exterior is an 8/10, interior 8/10

SUSE Creamcheese
Apr 11, 2007
It's really hard to judge the value of a modified car because everyone's taste is different. I'd list it on eBay and see what happens if you need to sell it quickly-if you try to sell it on the forums it'll probably languish for months while people hem and haw about the value.

Mathturbator
Oct 12, 2004
Funny original quote
Volvo got back to me with a long but clear answer. That was a pleasant surprise, definitely a plus in my book for Volvo!

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

MrOnBicycle posted:

Helping my dad look for a second hand V70 to buy. We've found a possible candidate:
2013 V70 II D3 (136hp), 36k miles, the mid range trim level + a lot of extras.

Is there anything I should watch out for with Volvos in this range (age, model, engine)?
Is the D3 136hp enough to haul the 1.8 tonne car + trailer (gotta haul poo poo sometimes) comfortably?

2013 D3 is 163 hp, not 136. It is indeed a very good engine.

Hahaha, wtf. 2011-2012, D3 is 163hp, and then 2013 onwards it's 136hp. Really now.

Nidhg00670000 fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Apr 3, 2015

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Quick question, I've got a '79 265 that I'm looking to get a chin spoiler for. Will any of the 240 series ones from the early 80's fit on it? They look basically identical, but I'm having to buy one online and can't fit it to the car first.



(not mine, but identical)

Something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201320091346

SUSE Creamcheese
Apr 11, 2007
You need one from a '75-'82 model. The later ones won't fit the bumper on your car.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Nidhg00670000 posted:

2013 D3 is 163 hp, not 136. It is indeed a very good engine.

Hahaha, wtf. 2011-2012, D3 is 163hp, and then 2013 onwards it's 136hp. Really now.

Yup, 2011-2012 D3 is now the D4. I test drove the D3 and was very surprised. 350Nm really is a big step up from the 174Nm I'm used to . It's a nice car, very comfortable, looks good. Especially with the Summum "Saga" rims.

Apparently you can upgrade it to 163hp 400Nm via Polestar upgrade for a mere thousand bucks (yeah...).

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc

zundfolge posted:

You need one from a '75-'82 model. The later ones won't fit the bumper on your car.

Cool, appreciate it. Hopefully this project will get going this summer. I'll be doing a really long thread on it.

mafoose
Oct 30, 2006

volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and vulvas and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dongs and volvos and dons and volvos and dogs and volvos and cats and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs and volvos and dogs

Sir Tonk posted:

Quick question, I've got a '79 265 that I'm looking to get a chin spoiler for. Will any of the 240 series ones from the early 80's fit on it? They look basically identical, but I'm having to buy one online and can't fit it to the car first.



(not mine, but identical)

Something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201320091346

That's a rare bird!
Like stated, one from those years or a commando bumpered GT one would fit.

The later one look pretty good, you just have to drill your own holes.
For any pics of your 265?

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc

mafoose posted:

That's a rare bird!
Like stated, one from those years or a commando bumpered GT one would fit.

The later one look pretty good, you just have to drill your own holes.
For any pics of your 265?

I've got a couple from when I first got it. Was going to try to rebuild the PRV, but nope that's insane. I've had the Mustang (on a salvage title, awaiting enough money to fix the body) sitting in the carport with a perfectly fine 302 and T5 for a couple of years and once I found TestPoints's thread I decided to just go with the project. Just needed a place with a large enough garage.



I think this is from right after I got it.





After washing it, probably from a couple of years ago.



From today. Really looking forward to washing and waxing the Volvo. Mustang's paint is a lost cause, but at least need to get all the dirt off.



Got the Mustang to start, I'll need it to pull the Volvo out enough that we can push it to the end of the driveway. Then need to tow them both to the new place and get them in the garage so I can pull the motors. Gonna be a fun summer.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
I love that green, holy crap :love: . Please do up a thread on your swap, I'll be following in your footsteps at some point in the future with my own 245 V8 conversion...

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Already got one typed up, just waiting to tow both vehicles to my new place before I post it in case there's a freak accident on the trip over. The budget I've put together is terrifying.

Also need better photos from after I attack the Volvo with a clay bar.

wtftastic
Jul 24, 2006

"In private, we will be mercifully free from the opinions of imbeciles and fools."

First time poster, long time volvo fan.

I've got a 1996 volvo 850 (not turbo, automatic) and it needs some TLC and I am a poor, so I was wondering if I could get some advice here. The car has a slow battery drain and has had one for several years. I don't use the car as a daily driver because I walk or bus to work and live in a small town, so car trips are 2-3 time a week (with occasional longer trips). I've tried looking for the drain on the main fuse box, and seen didly. Is there another fuse box I haven't noticed elsewhere in the car? I've been told to start the car and just sit in it for 10-15 minutes a day, but that's such a waste of money it feels criminal.

I also need to figure out how to get the antenna mast to go down (it stopped working a while ago and seemed to be fine, but I want to fix it). Is this something I can do on my own with access to pretty minimal tools and specialization in cars? I'm not an idiot, I've done some very basic work on cars before, but I don't have access to my dad and his tools at the moment.

Lastly, what the gently caress is up with the AC system in this model? I want to fill the coolant myself but I have no idea where it is, and the compressor is apparently leaky, so I need a yearly recharge.

I just need to keep this car going for another year or so before I get a job where I can afford to either buy a newer volvo (mid-2000s) or get this one seriously over hauled.

Thanks guys.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

wtftastic posted:

First time poster, long time volvo fan.

I've got a 1996 volvo 850 (not turbo, automatic) and it needs some TLC and I am a poor, so I was wondering if I could get some advice here.

I just need to keep this car going for another year or so before I get a job where I can afford to either buy a newer volvo (mid-2000s) or get this one seriously over hauled.

Thanks guys.

Battery drain- how old is the battery, and have you had it and the charging system checked?

Antenna mast - my 850s were wagon models, so no extending antenna, but I've owned a couple cars with them and they're generally accessible with minimal tools. Probably have to remove an interior panel in the trunk. This could also potentially be related to your battery drain, if the motor is unsuccessfully trying to retract the antenna mast when you turn the car off.

Ac - there's a very informative thread in AI, all about automotive ac systems and how to safely work on them. I'd suggest reading the lengthy first post in that thread before proceeding.

Anyhow, the low side service port is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Should have a blue cap on it.

angryrobots fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Apr 6, 2015

wtftastic
Jul 24, 2006

"In private, we will be mercifully free from the opinions of imbeciles and fools."

angryrobots posted:

Battery drain- how old is the battery, and have you had it and the charging system checked?

Antenna mast - my 850s were wagon models, so no extending antenna, but I've owned a couple cars with them and they're generally accessible with minimal tools. Probably have to remove an interior panel in the trunk. This could also potentially be related to your battery drain, if the motor is unsuccessfully trying to retract the antenna mast when you turn the car off.

Ac - there's a very informative thread in AI, all about automotive ac systems and how to safely work on them. I'd suggest reading the lengthy first post in that thread before proceeding.

Anyhow, the low side service port is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Should have a blue cap on it.

I suspect the alternator is good, as long drives will charge the battery, and I've had no other symptoms of alternator failure. The battery is now brand new (since I charged and discharged the last one to the point where it would not hold a charge). Is there something other than the alternator I need to check? I had it checked about a year ago and it looked fine then apparently.

I'd recently come around to thinking the antenna might be related, so I'm kind of excited to hear someone else suggest the same thing. I might give it a look this PM and see if I can get a hold of it. I'm tempted to uninstall the whole thing, but I'd like it for long drives.

Thanks for the info!!!

EDIT: I unscrewed the thing?? that holds the antenna in place and made a jumping spider friend (I suspect he was living in or around the antenna) and gently pulled up on the antenna until I freed enough of it to see the cable and then gently fed it back in and lowered the whole thing. Resecured the nut, turned the radio on and it all went up, and then lowered seemingly appropriately when the radio was turned off. I hosed around with it for about 10-20 minutes while I was trying to bend my driver's side wiper into better shape. I guess maybe the cable wasn't catching on the gears or whatever that lowered the whole thing.

wtftastic fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Apr 6, 2015

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

I have a 94 850 had some of the same issues.

1: no ideas on the drain issue, if you really wanna find it you can get a multimeter and a set of fuse connectors and find out what's pulling current while you are parked.

2: The antenna mast will eventually corrode and get stuck no matter what you do. I ended up replacing mine. The good news is when yours finally gives up the ghost, all you have to do is replace the mast, and it is pretty cheap. :10bux: on rockauto I think.

3: AC work will not be cheap. A refill can to keep you going is your best bet for now.

4: I spent a long time messing around with the winshield wiper arms, trying to bend them back into shape. Gave up and bought an aftermarket replacement. 35$.

wtftastic
Jul 24, 2006

"In private, we will be mercifully free from the opinions of imbeciles and fools."

MRC48B posted:

I have a 94 850 had some of the same issues.

1: no ideas on the drain issue, if you really wanna find it you can get a multimeter and a set of fuse connectors and find out what's pulling current while you are parked.

2: The antenna mast will eventually corrode and get stuck no matter what you do. I ended up replacing mine. The good news is when yours finally gives up the ghost, all you have to do is replace the mast, and it is pretty cheap. :10bux: on rockauto I think.

3: AC work will not be cheap. A refill can to keep you going is your best bet for now.

4: I spent a long time messing around with the winshield wiper arms, trying to bend them back into shape. Gave up and bought an aftermarket replacement. 35$.

My dad's pretty set on me just spending the cash to get someone to do the drain (he's the car expert I know and he bought me this car when I was in college). I'm leaning that ways even though its going to suck because the shop hours are going to be insane on that. Whatever it is isn't hugely obvious and I'm not an electrician so I suppose its best left to the pros. I've tries loving with the ammeter before and I got nowhere (I also think I had the door open at the time, which was a mistake).

I also am inclined to give up on the wiper arm- my dad was suggesting going on turbobricks and getting a part off a junker but its not going to be that much cheaper than just getting a new one. Is this something most auto supply places will have in stock or should I just special order it?

I feel a little bad for being so cheap with my car- its in rough shape (paint wise) and I like it so I feel really cruddy for letting these things go for so long.

rarbatrol
Apr 17, 2011

Hurt//maim//kill.

wtftastic posted:

First time poster, long time volvo fan.

I've got a 1996 volvo 850 (not turbo, automatic) and it needs some TLC and I am a poor, so I was wondering if I could get some advice here. The car has a slow battery drain and has had one for several years. I don't use the car as a daily driver because I walk or bus to work and live in a small town, so car trips are 2-3 time a week (with occasional longer trips). I've tried looking for the drain on the main fuse box, and seen didly. Is there another fuse box I haven't noticed elsewhere in the car? I've been told to start the car and just sit in it for 10-15 minutes a day, but that's such a waste of money it feels criminal.


On my 850, the glove box switch was a little loose and left the light inside of it on constantly. So... that's worth checking. You could either fix the switch or probably remove the light bulb. Edit: or be like me and close a napkin in the door.

rarbatrol fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Apr 7, 2015

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Mail order the arm. Odds are good any junkyard arm is also going to be bent, it was a common problem.

according to the catalogs it's the same part as on mine. Rockauto and amazon both have it, parts stores will have to order in anyway. Dorman #42950

EDIT: Another light to check would be the trunk light.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

rarbatrol posted:

On my 850, the glove box switch was a little loose and left the light inside of it on constantly. So... that's worth checking. You could either fix the switch or probably remove the light bulb. Edit: or be like me and close a napkin in the door.

That is absolutely right, I remember pulling the bulb from my glove box for time same reason.

wtftastic
Jul 24, 2006

"In private, we will be mercifully free from the opinions of imbeciles and fools."

MRC48B posted:

Mail order the arm. Odds are good any junkyard arm is also going to be bent, it was a common problem.

according to the catalogs it's the same part as on mine. Rockauto and amazon both have it, parts stores will have to order in anyway. Dorman #42950

EDIT: Another light to check would be the trunk light.

That was my thinking too, when I saw 5 YouTube videos explaining what the fault was and diy fixes for it, I knew it was common enough that most cars were going to have issues. Thanks for the part no, I appreciate it.

(I'll also take a stab at those two lights. I already had to remove rear door lights for never shutting off.)

Big Bowie Bonanza
Dec 30, 2007

please tell me where i can date this cute boy
My 1997 960's low beams stopped working completely. The bulbs are good, the switch is turned on, I can't really seem to figure out what's going on with them. Has anyone had this problem before and know how to fix it? I googled it and it seemed to be something with the headlight relay but I'd like a second opinion on this.

Terrible Robot
Jul 2, 2010

FRIED CHICKEN
Slippery Tilde
Anyone ever dealt with Southern Vo-Vo Inc.? I'm trying to find a good used engine for my 855T and they claim to have one with ok mileage on it. I just don't want to drop $800 on an already hosed engine.

Sir Tonk
Apr 18, 2006
Young Orc
Volvo 302 conversion project thread is up. This one is going to be slow for a couple of months, mostly cleaning and prep work, until my job slows down in June. Hope to have both engines out by the end of the summer when work picks up again, but who knows!

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3712555

Slim Pickens
Jan 12, 2007

Grimey Drawer
I'm looking at getting a tow hitch for my 2004 v70(2.5T auto) so I can haul around motorcycles and other crap under 1500 lbs. Should I get an auxillary transmission fluid cooler or can that bit going through the radiator handle that little bit of towing stress? Also, any recommendations? I've done a little looking and I've seen people using trans coolers off of XC90s for their cars.

Sy Borg
Sep 20, 2007




Grimey Drawer
Yesterday I took a 2011 XC70 for a test drive. The dealer had two used models from the same year on their lot, both were single owner vehicles that were traded in at the end their respective leases. The one I drove had 55k miles but the model that really caught my eye only had 28k. The 28k is fully loaded except for navigation, and the dealer said the previous owner was a couple in their 60s who followed the recommended maintenance schedule religiously. Sticker price is $28,000.

What should I know about this particular model? Am I crazy for considering this as my daily driver? Lastly, is this a fair price and is there room to negotiate? The dealer stated that it has been in inventory since August and has had much interest.

Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated.

Oxphocker
Aug 17, 2005

PLEASE DO NOT BACKSEAT MODERATE

Sy Borg posted:

What should I know about this particular model? Am I crazy for considering this as my daily driver? Lastly, is this a fair price and is there room to negotiate? The dealer stated that it has been in inventory since August and has had much interest.

Much interest but has been there since august? That means it's been sitting on the lot over 6 months...

Overall, no major defects that I can think of, but it's still worth taking it to a Volvo mechanic you trust to look it over first. You could probably try to negotiate a lower price if it's been sitting that long but KBB sets a range of $28k-$30k for a model you mentioned with that kind of mileage. If you're set on that model, try for $27k out the door and see what they have to say, if they easily cave, then you know it's been sitting there a while or something's up with it and they want to get rid of it. If they hold firm, then it's possible they might actually have a lot of lookers at it and might be trying to get the most out of it, but since they already have it at the lower range of the KBB estimate, it seems a bit odd.

Sy Borg
Sep 20, 2007




Grimey Drawer

Oxphocker posted:

Much interest but has been there since august? That means it's been sitting on the lot over 6 months...

Overall, no major defects that I can think of, but it's still worth taking it to a Volvo mechanic you trust to look it over first. You could probably try to negotiate a lower price if it's been sitting that long but KBB sets a range of $28k-$30k for a model you mentioned with that kind of mileage. If you're set on that model, try for $27k out the door and see what they have to say, if they easily cave, then you know it's been sitting there a while or something's up with it and they want to get rid of it. If they hold firm, then it's possible they might actually have a lot of lookers at it and might be trying to get the most out of it, but since they already have it at the lower range of the KBB estimate, it seems a bit odd.

Sorry, I forgot to add the "not". The salesman said it hasn't had much interest, and no lookers in the past thirty days. But he tried to drum up urgency by saying that the next few months he usually sells a wagons. Also, the dealer is the Volvo dealer in my area.

Oxphocker
Aug 17, 2005

PLEASE DO NOT BACKSEAT MODERATE
Yeah, that sounds like to me that either there's something wrong with it that they aren't mentioning...maybe run a carfax on it?

For a car with that miles and in as good surface condition as you're reporting, it makes me wonder why there hasn't been offers yet...especially if they are the only Volvo dealer in the area, they should have a good idea of what they have. When I got my 98 V70R, part of what got me such a good deal on it is that it was the only Volvo on a Toyota lot and it was very close to Christmas time so I know they wanted that trade in off their books. Car dealers aren't dumb, there's more to the story than they are probably telling you.

That being said, if you've done all your due diligence and can get it for under $28k, I'd say you're probably ahead of the game overall. Is it the T6 model?

Edit: in other news...just laid down $2200 in suspension parts for the 06 V70R, now I'm just waiting for all of them to arrive in order to do both front and back suspension. Hopefully new shocks, sway bar ends, bushings, stops, rear toe bars, and camber bushings will make the car ride like new again. Almost at 100k miles anyway so that's about the right time to do it, the pain is I don't know of anyone nearby who does alignments and if I can get them to zero out the rear end so it will stop hopping on bumps. It's also my first attempt at using a third party VIDA/DICE so I can do the suspension reset once it's all done, so it will be interesting to figure out.

Oxphocker fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Apr 12, 2015

Sy Borg
Sep 20, 2007




Grimey Drawer
Carfax report is clean, the dealer had a copy in the vehicle's file. And no, this is not a T6, just the 3.2 with a moonroof and heated seats.

When asked the dealer said the previous owner traded this one in for another XC70 at the end of the lease. Nothing seems fishy to me, but I am asking an in-law's father who has had a dealership for years for his advice, too.

Thanks!

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

Slim Pickens posted:

I'm looking at getting a tow hitch for my 2004 v70(2.5T auto) so I can haul around motorcycles and other crap under 1500 lbs. Should I get an auxillary transmission fluid cooler or can that bit going through the radiator handle that little bit of towing stress? Also, any recommendations? I've done a little looking and I've seen people using trans coolers off of XC90s for their cars.

I might be in a position to tell you in a few weeks. I just bought a 2002 V70 2.5 auto (no turbo) that my brother wants to borrow in order to haul a boat some 500 miles. That trailer should weigh in at about 1500 lb or so. The route has few hills and the weather is likely to be cool, so that should help.
People in this part of the world seem to be of the opinion that the auto tranny can handle towing largeish camper trailers just fine, but that the turbo is a good thing to have since it helps a bunch with bottom end torque.

I got a great deal on the car, which needs some fixing. It needed a new sway bar(!) as well as CV joint seals, which took some doing. It also needs new brake rotors and pads fairly soon as well as a front wheel bearing or two. The rear wiper doesn't work, and I have an intermittent indicator light for the high beams. All in all, I'm a happy Volvo owner. I've never seen a car this old with so little rust, and wrenching on it has been a pleasure so far.

Edit: pounds and kilograms are not the same

Invalido fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Apr 13, 2015

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply