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Sounds like I should combine everything, I'll tape a hacksaw blade to a vibrator then heat it up with a blowtorch  In seriousness the hacksaw method is probably what I'll go with, it might not end the prettiest but it's cheap and I can always just sand the result. I like the hot knife idea, but nowhere around here rents them and I don't see using it more than once
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Mar 25, 2015 11:35
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Sentient Data posted:Sounds like I should combine everything, I'll tape a hacksaw blade to a vibrator then heat it up with a blowtorch If you hacksaw it off and leave a little stub to avoid scratching the sides too much you could then just remove the remains carefully using a sanding wheel on a dremel. You can buy a handle for a hacksaw blade to avoid having to wrap it in tape to hold it - like this
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Mar 25, 2015 11:52
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Cakefool posted:Oscillating multi tool? Yeah, this will fit your needs perfectly and they're now getting very cheap since whatever patent it was under has expired or something. I have a carpenter friend who loves his. I'm just waiting for a job to justify buying one myself.
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Mar 25, 2015 13:24
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ReelBigLizard posted:I have a carpenter friend who loves his. I'm just waiting for a job to justify buying one myself. Go look around your doors and windows for dry rot. It's there, hiding, and it can't be reasoned with, or bargained with, it can, however, be multitooled out of there in a cackle of "oh god why was I using chisels for so long!"
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Mar 25, 2015 14:10
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Sentient Data posted:Sounds like I should combine everything, I'll tape a hacksaw blade to a vibrator then heat it up with a blowtorch You could also probably debulk with a pair of tin snips and clean it up with a dremel and sanding drum. Tin snips would probably be a lot easier than a hacksaw blade
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Mar 25, 2015 16:30
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dyne posted:You could also probably debulk with a pair of tin snips and clean it up with a dremel and sanding drum. Tin snips would probably be a lot easier than a hacksaw blade An xacto knife or razor blade usually makes pretty quick work of plastic too. You just have to score the surface quite a few times and then bend it til it snaps. Might be easier to get a clean cut this way, just slice, slice, slice, slice, bend and done.
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Mar 25, 2015 16:45
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Jonny Quest posted:Go look around your doors and windows for dry rot. It's there, hiding, and it can't be reasoned with, or bargained with, it can, however, be multitooled out of there in a cackle of "oh god why was I using chisels for so long!" Currently renting, but yeah, I'll find a job for one soon.
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Mar 25, 2015 17:51
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Sentient Data posted:Sounds like I should combine everything, I'll tape a hacksaw blade to a vibrator then heat it up with a blowtorch you could make a poor mans hotknife with a small torch of mapgas and a knife from the thrift store.
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Mar 26, 2015 00:23
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Sentient Data posted:Cutting things! Aviation snips! Use mine for just about everything besides actually cutting aluminum. Maybe you could take a chisel and tap them out? Course that might break the rest of the plastic... oscillating multi tool FTW. e: Obvious answer is to just buy some cassettes to fill the space up. Then you wouldn't feel bad about it being wasted! Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Mar 26, 2015 |
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Mar 26, 2015 01:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:
He may have only spent $3 and some scraps but you can buy an actual pliers rack for $7 from here and all you have to do is cut them to length. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/22-15920 I picked up 2 of these several months ago, they're totally worth it.
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Mar 26, 2015 23:36
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What's the best way to store sockets? I'm loving disgusted with my drawer.
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Mar 27, 2015 04:52
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I use those plastic stand up trays. http://m.harborfreight.com/3-pc-sae-socket-trayorganizer-68100.html There's also metric as well.
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Mar 27, 2015 05:11
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I use those plastic stand up trays. I just bought those and they're pretty nice. I keep my 1/2" ones on a $0.99 rail from Harbor Freight because I don't have enough to make the space the tray takes up worth it.
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Mar 27, 2015 05:42
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I bought a rail from Harbor Freight and all of my sockets slipped off. It was upsetting. So I spent an addtional $5 and bought them from Craftsman. https://tinyurl.com/owhvzza or https://tinyurl.com/ndq69ho. Worked so well I immediately bought more for the rest of mine. I really love being able to grab the whole rail and take it with me under the truck. Sure, I only need two but I hate sliding out to and getting up because I grabbed one of the wrong ones. Also makes junkyard trips easier.
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Mar 27, 2015 15:42
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I have those craftsman rails, after several years of using them I can conclude they are loving garbage. I have been consistently annoyed by them, they're too strong and in some cases have bent instead of releasing a socket, but the sockets fall off in the bottom of my toolbag. I'll be switching to these when I decide to blow 100 bucks on enough of them for all my sockets. https://www.expeditionexchange.com/ortt/ Not as nice and neat as straight metal rails, but the sockets stay on (a friend has them - I shook a rail of deep 1/2" drive impact sockets and none fell off) and yet can be removed when you need them.
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Mar 27, 2015 17:15
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kastein posted:I have those craftsman rails, after several years of using them I can conclude they are loving garbage. I have been consistently annoyed by them, they're too strong and in some cases have bent instead of releasing a socket, but the sockets fall off in the bottom of my toolbag. Whoah, those are badass. Thanks for sharing.
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Mar 27, 2015 17:37
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VolumeOverTalent posted:Would be grateful for the same solution, as I'm just about to do the same thing with an extra Clarke step-up box I'm waiting for from eBay. I had myself a little think:  How about a piece of plywood, cut to dimensions, thick enough to fill out the recess on the bottom box. The add angle aluminum profile all the way around (only one shown, was Sketchup lazy.) Or just bolt/glue/rivet the piece of plywood to the bottom of the top box
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Mar 27, 2015 17:43
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Finally broke down and bought a new tire inflator: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PUTC0M This thing is pretty badass. My favorite is how it clips on to the valve stem so you don't have to hold it in place. To deflate, simply pull the trigger halfway, pull fully to inflate. Build quality isn't _quite_ what I'd expect for 60 bucks, but I'm sure it will hold up just fine for home use.
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Mar 27, 2015 20:15
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Air chuck talk: I just warrantied my bluepoint one like this  and the new one comes with a motherfucking steel braided hose! WIN! Speaking of caving in, got sick of not having a flashlight so grabbed this bitch off the MAC truck today. (640 lumen streamlight HL) on sale for 160 with two batteries wall and car charger. Manager got his from the snapon guy for 210 just two weeks ago. hehe http://www.tooltopia.com/streamligh...iHJ8aAhoo8P8HAQ
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Mar 27, 2015 20:21
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revmoo posted:Finally broke down and bought a new tire inflator:
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Mar 27, 2015 23:48
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revmoo posted:Finally broke down and bought a new tire inflator: Thanks for posting this. I have been needing a new air gauge. I really wanted digital but didn't wanna pay the tool truck and all the other ones online I had seen looked cheesy or were snap on prices.
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Mar 27, 2015 23:53
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^^ Ain't that the air Dr. Pain picked up to use in his old shop? Google Butt posted:What's the best way to store sockets? I'm loving disgusted with my drawer. These magnetic socket trays are spendy, but pure loving magic. I got a red for my metric sockets, a black for my SAE, and a 1/4" tray for the smaller stuff. Everything fits in a shallow drawer in my chest, and I can just grab the whole tray for whatever I'm working on.  Versus: 3$ Ikea silverware organizer  
Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Mar 28, 2015 |
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Mar 28, 2015 03:16
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I use some silverware organizer I got at IKEA for like $3 each.
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Mar 28, 2015 03:21
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SouthsideSaint posted:Thanks for posting this. I have been needing a new air gauge. I really wanted digital but didn't wanna pay the tool truck and all the other ones online I had seen looked cheesy or were snap on prices. These are supposedly the blue point version just rebranded, though I haven't verified that.
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Mar 28, 2015 03:41
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The button is different iirc.
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Mar 28, 2015 08:41
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I was wondering how good those magnetic socket organizers are. I just use stand up right now, but it means tall drawers. I was thinking about buying a set for my impact sockets, as I just plan on owning 1/2 for now, eventually getting 3/8.
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Mar 28, 2015 15:12
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I have some plastic socket tree from home depot. Seems good enough to hold stuff for grabbing the whole lot out of the drawer.
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Mar 28, 2015 20:37
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Cakefool posted:Either Clarke or Sealey do a 24v jobbie rated to 320-odd Nm that'll hurt if you're limp wristed and it catches you unawares. You can normally pick them up for about a ton with 2 batteries. Don't know if it'll do the landy though. After having this on my wishlist for ages I finally bought myself the clarke 24V 220Nm model on friday because i 'needed' it and because it comes with 2 batteries and all the higher power ones come with one (and are more expensive). Used it today changing my gearbox and it saves loads of time and effort! Well impressed  It doesn't quite have the beans to free big things off - You still have to initially crack stuff off with a breaker bar - but all it takes is getting them moving (so one pull/jump on the breaker bar) and then you can use the impact which makes life a lot easier and quicker. Kind of wish i had bought a bigger one - but then i suspect it would spend a lot of its time being flat when i needed it due to only one battery (and it would have cost me more)....
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Mar 28, 2015 23:55
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revmoo posted:Finally broke down and bought a new tire inflator: Yeah, I'm quite happy with mine. Gauge is more accurate than the CH one I got from Walmart ages ago, and the chuck stays on without leaking more often.
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Mar 29, 2015 00:15
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Tomarse posted:After having this on my wishlist for ages I finally bought myself the clarke 24V 220Nm model on friday because i 'needed' it and because it comes with 2 batteries and all the higher power ones come with one (and are more expensive). Used it today changing my gearbox and it saves loads of time and effort! Well impressed The point of having an impact is so you don't have to waste time with a breaker bar. An impact that doesn't have the grunt to pop loose stubborn bolts is worthless.
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Mar 29, 2015 03:15
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HotCanadianChick posted:The point of having an impact is so you don't have to waste time with a breaker bar. An impact that doesn't have the grunt to pop loose stubborn bolts is worthless. Find me one that can break everything and I'll buy it right now. Snap On, Mac, Ingersoll Rand. It does not exist, at least in battery powered form.
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Mar 29, 2015 03:18
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Its air or nothing. But even then I bet there is a bolt that can't always be broken with an impact. Some times the orange tipped wrench is needed.
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Mar 29, 2015 03:24
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I love my IR 2135TIMAX, it's hands down the best general purpose gun for anyone with a compressor @ home. I use my cordless impacts all the time though. No need for dragging an air hose out/turning on the compressor.
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Mar 29, 2015 04:17
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HotCanadianChick posted:The point of having an impact is so you don't have to waste time with a breaker bar. An impact that doesn't have the grunt to pop loose stubborn bolts is worthless. I agree that one that could do it all would be better but even with having to break the nuts off by hand it still saves a poo poo load of time and effort not having to do any more of the work.
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Mar 29, 2015 05:59
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The local tire shop put my buddy's wheels on so tight that my Earthquake impact at 120psi couldn't get them off. I ended up having to use a breaker bar, jack handle, and 5' fence post to pop them loose. He took the car back for something later on and asked them to be gentle. They ended up shattering his bolt adapter rattling the wheels back on the second time.
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Mar 29, 2015 06:34
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HotCanadianChick posted:The point of having an impact is so you don't have to waste time with a breaker bar. An impact that doesn't have the grunt to pop loose stubborn bolts is worthless. No, the point of having an impact is getting bolts and nuts in and out in 1/30th of the time it takes by hand. Time is money, even in the driveway. Breaking bolts free is a nice perk when available, not the raison d'être.
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Mar 29, 2015 08:34
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Even a 300-odd lb.ft impact gun isn't even close to what I can manage with a breaker bar, or what I've found myself needing on Landie parts.
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Mar 29, 2015 11:38
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revmoo posted:The local tire shop put my buddy's wheels on so tight that my Earthquake impact at 120psi couldn't get them off. I ended up having to use a breaker bar, jack handle, and 5' fence post to pop them loose. Most places are more scared of the liability from under-torquing than they are from overtorque, cross-threading, or breaking studs. Which means impact them on, no torque sticks, use a non-adjustable torque wrench preset to manufacturers spec for that vehicle.
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Mar 29, 2015 15:05
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MRC48B posted:Most places are more scared of the liability from under-torquing than they are from overtorque, cross-threading, or breaking studs. Discount Tire really impressed me when they torqued my wheels to spec.
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Mar 29, 2015 15:15
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InitialDave posted:Even a 300-odd lb.ft impact gun isn't even close to what I can manage with a breaker bar, or what I've found myself needing on Landie parts. I don't know what the IR battery 1/2" impact is, but it's pretty strong. I've dismantled a friends '86 ninety which lived on a dairy farm all its life with one and there wasn't a bolt that it wouldn't remove, sometimes it needed to be a freshly charged battery and occasionally it just sheared the bolt but it didn't fail. It's better than my air impact but that was just an aldi cheapie that was given to me.
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Mar 29, 2015 15:18
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