|
Got rid of the lovely HIDs. It was a direct drop-in kit, so it was just the plugs and a couple zipties to free up the ballasts and igniters. Wagners for ever and ever. Now I'm debating whether to sell them (thus enabling some other douchebag to blind people) or just trash them. What's the going rate for used generic 10000k HID's?
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 05:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 22:12 |
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Gotta drive to work tomorrow so here comes the hockey tape (at Slow is Fast's suggestion). Actually feels really good to drive.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 06:56
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:How well does hockey tape hold up to water? He should get a few solid shifts out of it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2015 07:56
|
|
|
The hockey tape seems OK so far. It's actually kinda nice to drive with, though I'm looking forward to getting the real pedals on. Wifemobile got punted a few months ago by an idiot in her office parking lot backing her retard truck directly into her trunk, gently cracking a tail light, scraping the bumper and punting in the reverse light. Luckily, she owned up to it and left a note and was really good about paying out of pocket and being a good human being.  It is really hard to find tail lights for this specific car (a 1998 200SX SE-R). They are both year and model specific, though thankfully not trim. I tried a half dozen vendors who all sent me the same (wrong, for a Sentra) Depo part and then finally just went with Nissan. They said they'd have to custom order it from Japan and it would take several weeks if they even had the thing in stock. Luckily the parts person at my local dealership is super awesome - she eventually hunted it down for me in Tennessee, where the loving car was built (whoda thunk?). I eventually secured a fresh (used) tail light from Texas on eBay, but Nissan was unable to get ahold of a passenger side tail light. The tail light crack wasn't as bad after getting cleaned up as I thought it would be, so now I have a spare increasingly rare tail light. It will probably outperform my TFSA this year. In the interim found out the trunk lid was bent around the reverse light so a new one would never fit flush. Kinda grumpy about not getting paid for that, but the trunk lid interchanges with the Sentra at least, and looks 'ok' with it as is. I finally got around to installing it tonight.  It's like a loving beautiful jewel of the Next on the docket for this car is replacing the blower motor, since it keeps devouring resistor packs. Luckily I already have a compatible VDO blower motor from my old '97 Impreza, which never got a chance to get it before its untimely death. If you see a '98 200SX in the yard, please pull the reverse lights and put them on eBay for someone like me. It's just five 8mm nuts and a connector. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Apr 1, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 02:57
|
|
|
It's been ages since I've seen a B14 200SX in the flesh, much less an SE-R (most of them turned into rust years ago, even here in the sunny south). But I'll keep an eye out for them when I'm in junkyards. What's specific about the 98 vs the 95-97 lights?
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 04:33
|
|
|
Got the motor hoist and pulled both axles on my accord. I can't wait to have the engine out and can finally get this thing on the road. Then all the other issues from sitting for a year will start poking there head up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 06:14
|
|
|
Timmy Cruise posted:He should get a few solid shifts out of it. Solid hockey post.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 13:32
|
|
|
^  some texas redneck posted:What's specific about the 98 vs the 95-97 lights? The black raccoon eyes around the lights are different between 95-97 and 98. This car was designed with absolutely no attention paid to corrosion whatsoever. Obviously designed in California and engineered in the South. It has tremendously nasty seam overlaps on the unibody that trap salt and funnel water into the side skirts which rot out the rockers, the bumper itself has no drain holes for freeing the water that gets stuck inside the rear quarter and the rear fender liners trap rot against the interior wheelhouse. It's had the same rust the entire time I've known the car (for the last ~13 years) but in recent years it's started to get worse as the salt content increases on the roads.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2015 17:00
|
|
|
That explains a whole lot, I very rarely see a B14 these days. I actually see more B13's on the road, and when I do see a B14, it's a pile of iron oxide that will fall apart the next time the owner sneezes. I've never seen anything rust like those. Even 80s Hondas and Mazdas hold up better.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 07:23
|
|
|
Started to put the lower control rods back on the corvair. I realized it was only so doable last time I did this 5-7 years ago due to the massively shot bushings. You have to twist one side of the pivot bracket that bolts to the diff up a few inches to get the holes lined up, and the new urethane bushings are stiff as poo poo. There is nothing to grab on and I didn't have a drift the right size to get leverage through the pivot hole. Only slipped and thumped myself in the chest with a control arm once. I'm going to go by the farm store and pick up a 1/2-20 tap and make a big lever out of some bar stock that I can thread the pivot bolt into. Edit: Turned out to be as simple as changing where I was supporting the suspension. I changed my jack location to under the shock mount, which provided enough side force to make the whole thing loose and easy to work on. Bolts went right in, taking just minutes to get the brackets on. Got real close and personal with the underside of the engine torqueing the pivot and chamber bolts, as they must be done with full vehicle weight on the suspension. Plus the values are 80-ft lbs, and there wasn't really enough room to get my elbow vertical enough to get good leverage. Car rolls, though! Starter is now rebuilt, but not in car. That comes tomorrow, while tonight I rest my tired bones. Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Apr 3, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2015 17:33
|
|
|
Fixed the parking brake on the P71 CV - PO hadn't engaged the cable on the actuator. Needed that to pass inspection. I also like having a functioning parking brake, even in an automatic. He also got one of the brake pads a little askew, fortunately, that din;t hurt anything, and I put it back together correctly. since I was on a roll, I re-enabled the dome light (it was set to the police-preferred "dark car" setting, so the dome light did not come on with the doors.) I had to remove a shorting plug in a connector under the steering column, and disconnect the battery to get the body computer to acknowledge the change. Why they couldn't just use a 3-position switch like most Japanese cars, I have no idea. Replaced the bulbs in the dome and map light with (much brighter) LEDs. also changed the trunk release button, which on P71 is mounted in the middle of the dash, to only work with the ignition, rather than battery. Painted the rear wheels last weekend, so put those back on after the brake work was done. Front wheels get painted this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Apr 3, 2015 23:44
|
|
|
I finally got some pictures up to share! Figured out my cabin leak.  Got her up on the lift, this is probably one of the nicer old tire/wheels.  It's got a healthy coating of some sort of grime and dirt all over the front suspension.  Man, these bushings. No wonder it would never hold a chamber setting.   Old arms out.  Hardware into the giant v band clamp sealed drum of Ed's Red.  Some nice, shiny bead blasted drums. Did them up in grill paint after.  Looking good behind those new wheels.   Don't have the rear suspension all together yet, but here it is on the ground.  Fixing up the brackets.   Shiny new starter parts!    New bushes, Glyptal'd up the pole shoes.   Fits just right. New brushes, too. Not meant for this as you can tell by the angled back faces against straight stops. Loads better than the old, though. Edit: Should these go in the other way? I'm not sure but it looks like the commutator side is canted as well, can't tell if its the proper direction  Lookit that beaut! I got a PID controller and SSR for my toaster oven, so I went a little nuts with the Gunkote. I think it turned out pretty spiffy.  I need to get some pics of the new control rods, the bushings are cast in place urethane and are pretty clean looking. Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Apr 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 00:06
|
|
|
Continued my pattern of work on the 200SX. Swapped out a blower motor resistor pack. Old one was all rusted out and would only periodically work properly. I had myself all lined up to replace a blower motor proper (since this is the second resistor pack replacement in five years), but the original sounded fine. Since that felt largely disappointing, I followed it up by taking rubbing compound to all the parking lot scars I could find, including a really satisfying paint transfer on the wing mirror. Can't wait to give it a good power polish. Probably needs a bit of trim paint as all the blacked-out portions of the doors are starting to fade in the sun. I also replaced a broken piece of plastic trim around the drivers' side door handle that inexplicably cost fifteen loving dollars and took a month for the Nissan dealership to order. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Apr 4, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 01:50
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:since I was on a roll, I re-enabled the dome light (it was set to the police-preferred "dark car" setting, so the dome light did not come on with the doors.) I had to remove a shorting plug in a connector under the steering column, and disconnect the battery to get the body computer to acknowledge the change. Why they couldn't just use a 3-position switch like most Japanese cars, I have no idea. Replaced the bulbs in the dome and map light with (much brighter) LEDs. also changed the trunk release button, which on P71 is mounted in the middle of the dash, to only work with the ignition, rather than battery. My car has the typical 3 position switch in the dome light.. ... but the map lights ignore it, they both come on when the doors are opened.  I swapped all of my interior lighting to LED pretty quickly after getting my car. The panel I put in the dome light has a row that flickers occasionally, but for  I'm not bitching (much), especially after 2 years. The map lights on mine just use 194 bulbs. I did notice that the lights all (barely) glow when they're off since switching to LED, I'm guessing the body control module uses PWM to dim the lights (they fade off instead of just going dark) and never really hits zero.I should look into changing my trunk release to only work when the ignition is on; as it is now, if someone breaks in, they can pop the trunk easily, even if the (factory) alarm goes off.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 03:10
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:I should look into changing my trunk release to only work when the ignition is on; as it is now, if someone breaks in, they can pop the trunk easily, even if the (factory) alarm goes off. Lookit mister fancy pants here, too good for a good old fashioned pull cable. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2015 13:52
|
|
|
GM's been too good for pull cables since the 70s. (if they used cables, they'd make them out of brittle plastic that would fall apart after a year) Seriously though, there's actually a switch in the trunk to disable the button inside. But it also disables the button on the keyfob. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 00:58
|
|
|
Flushed the brake fluid and replaced the oil filter housing gasket. RTABS and center support bearing is up next.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 01:56
|
|
|
Got my freshly overhauled head torqued back down on the Jeep block. God the manifolds are a million times easier to install with the head outside of the bay - last time I wasn't able to get the bottom row of bolts torqued down adequately, and I could see exhaust leak marks on the gasket when I took it apart.    
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 07:06
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:GM's been too good for pull cables since the 70s. I'm surprised they used them in the 70s; they didn't in the 60s. Just had a separate key for the trunk lock. No way to open it from inside. So you're saying they went to a cable for a couple years, then ditched it? Weird. I guess it would be like Ford going from a cable clutch to hydraulic for 4 years, then back to cable in the trucks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 09:30
|
|
|
Changed the fuel pump on my Range Rover Classic. Why the gently caress do all fuel pumps fail when there is about 3/4 - almost full tank? I swear they just time that poo poo right so you gotta really wrestle it out, dump out the extra gas and then wrestle that poo poo back in. Of course I can't do it cleanly so I just spill gas loving every where, said gently caress it, dumped it into a 5 gallon bucket and shoved that tank back in.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 20:18
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Changed the fuel pump on my Range Rover Classic. Had you considered siphoning it out?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 20:55
|
|
|
Raluek posted:I'm surprised they used them in the 70s; they didn't in the 60s. Just had a separate key for the trunk lock. No way to open it from inside. So you're saying they went to a cable for a couple years, then ditched it? Weird. I guess it would be like Ford going from a cable clutch to hydraulic for 4 years, then back to cable in the trucks. I probably should have phrased it differently; I don't think they used cables on any US made stuff, aside from Geos (which were badge-engineered Toyotas, Isuzus, and Suzukis anyway - with only the Toyota-derived versions being built in the US). I know they've had an electric release on their trunks since at least the 70s, though probably not on every model. I know mid 70s Cadillacs had it, and I've seen it on early 80s B bodies (always in the glove box on the bigger cars). It's on the lower drivers side dash on my car. I prefer it to a cable, personally; at least if the solenoid breaks, it's usually pretty easy to replace. If you have to replace a cable, you have to pull it to the front of the car.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 21:01
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Had you considered siphoning it out? That's poo poo that crosses your mind after the tank is out. loving hindsight is always 20/20
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 21:02
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:That's poo poo that crosses your mind after the tank is out. That's stuff that crosses my mind as I'm daydreaming about the next project - I usually have some free time before starting any repair. I can imagine making that mistake if I need to get the project done today though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2015 21:07
|
|
|
I  Just need to figure out the center cap situation and I'll be happy. My god, such a step up from the Rotas.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 00:29
|
|
|
Booring bodywork-type poo poo: I removed this:  down to this:  so I could seal this:  with poo poo like this:  Please note, no, I didn't put the silicon sealant on bare air. That's actually a picture of me mid-way done stripping it off (from the first time I fixed it) so I could get to the door latch mechanism to hook up the new door pull. Part of replacing the broken door handle retract mechanism.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 00:30
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:That's poo poo that crosses your mind after the tank is out. Assuming you've got enough places to store said fuel, though. Even the ~8 gallons I siphoned out of my GMC when I let it sit for too long was annoying as hell to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 00:36
|
|
|
I had some clean 5 gallon buckets  and a 1 gallon can.I hate these new gas cans with the spring loaded valves... I just miss the old cap.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 00:45
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:I had some clean 5 gallon buckets http://www.amazon.com/Gas-Can-Spout-Kit-Replacement/dp/B00DGVRXD2 
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 05:11
|
|
|
Do they ship to California?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 07:47
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:Changed the fuel pump on my Range Rover Classic. Why the hell did you take the tank out? There's an access hatch under the carpet in the back.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 15:51
|
|
|
Accidentally jumped it over a humpback bridge. The wheels stayed on the rest of the way home and the sump is still there so I should be okay, right? 
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 17:16
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Why the hell did you take the tank out? There's an access hatch under the carpet in the back. they didn't gain that till 91. Trust me, I looked. Edit: the official change was 91, some late 90 models had it. I could have removed the floor, but that would have involved drilling out a million rivets. Plus I renewed all the hoses and poo poo while I had every thing apart, as a "while this poo poo is all apart" thing. Holy poo poo, thank you. I don't know if any one knows what I am talking about, but the new gas cans have these loving awful spring loaded nozzles that don't work in car gas tanks because its an acrobatic move to not only hold a 5 gallon can at a funny angle, but pull back the spring loaded nozzle because other wise you can't do it any other way. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Apr 7, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 18:07
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:they didn't gain that till 91. Trust me, I looked. You need to look in the tools section.  Ah, there it is. In all seriousness, my dad went this route when replacing the fuel pump on one of his fourthgen Camaros (I think the '94). On that car, your only other option is to drop the tank, which mandates dropping the rear axle and probably the exhaust too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 18:14
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:You need to look in the tools section. It was actually super easy to drop the tank. 2 bolts in the front, 2 in the rear and undoing the evap/filler/fuel lines, it drops out with a little bit of fiddling with a floor jack. Its just all that "oh I should have siphoned the gas out of the tank" moment. Fuel pumps always poo poo themselves with at least 3/4 tank of fuel.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2015 18:22
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Do they ship to California? No but these "water spouts" do Amazon.com: Replacement Spout - Water Jug Or Gas Can Spout - Update Your Old Can!: Industrial & Scientific http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-S...cription-iframe
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2015 03:38
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:You need to look in the tools section. Which is great, till you cut through part of the tank too  (Haven't done this, but drills are great for dowsing for fuel tanks, wiring, brake lines, and fuel lines, too.)
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2015 03:41
|
|
|
On Sunday I got my new ride: And put on my old wheels:  That is all.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2015 19:14
|
|
|
Finally spotted and patched the cause of a tire air leak. Turned out to be a chunk of a wood screw.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2015 21:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 22:12 |
|
|
This was last week but I hadn't posted it because    Cut off one of the sheared bolts and drilled through the head to make room for the replacement. There's no way to get access to the bolt next to it without cutting the subframe so that's staying as it is.  RIP in pieces 
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2015 00:09
|
|
