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Pagan posted:That shot was my girlfriend's idea, so she deserves the credit. I just can't believe that's me. I'm a computer geek, but I somehow look like I'm in a movie poster. 
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Mar 24, 2015 07:06
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MohawkSatan posted:Its been a long time since I've done anything with bows, but isn't 40lb draw a bit light for hunting? There is an archery thread over in TFR too if you're interested 45 lb is the minimum I heard for hunting, and that's with certain bows. He really is risking only wounding an animal at only 40 unless he has some amazing tips. As for the rest of it, it's so well put together. The photographer did a great job, and no canted angles!!
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Mar 24, 2015 08:20
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The bow meets RI's minimum, but more importantly, I can put stronger limbs on as I get more practice. Thank you all for the feedback. My GF doesn't normally take photos, but she's showing some talent. I wish more cosplayers would work with good photographers. I see a lot of great costumes, but it's rare to find really solid photography. This thread also helped inspire me to actually start making costumes instead of just thinking about it, so I wanted to share.
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Mar 24, 2015 10:47
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I'm so excited, my whole cosplay group got in to C2E2's big Cosplay Championships this year!!  It's individual entries only so we are technically competing against each other. Oh, the drama! This year's contest is going to be about 40x as Warhammer-y as it was last year. 
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Mar 27, 2015 17:26
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I've been thinking about cosplaying my DDO character for quite some time now. He looks like this: This would be my first costume ever and I realize that it's a really big project. So far my biggest problem seems to be weight - if I use actual chainmail and fiberglass plate armor I'm looking at roughly 40kg. That's more than half my weight. The real culprit here is the chainmail, but I have no idea what else I could use. On the other hand, I have no idea how to attach chainmail pants to anything, either, but that seems like an easily solvable problem. Any idea how to keep something like this light?
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Apr 2, 2015 11:44
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Chainmail pants should be attached to a sturdy belt. As to how to keep the weight down, it depends if you're set on using metal, in which case, use aluminum to save weight over steel, and if not you could use plastic rings.
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Apr 2, 2015 13:46
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Ok, so, I'm about ready to give up on finding something to use to hold these straps on my stilts. The closest thing I could find online to what was in the instructions was this bolt plate. I emailed them, asking for a quote, and it took them a week to get back to me and tell me that they were out of stock. Then they informed me that they have a $150 minimum order, so I basically went "Ha ha ha... No!" and now I have no idea where else to look. I've searched through McMaster-Carr, North State Supply, Fastenal, Napa Auto Parts, Value Home Centers, Lowes, Home Depot, Jo Anne Fabrics, Harbor Freight Tools, and Dival Safety, and I've asked literally every single person I had mentioned the project to, and I still cant find these loving things. You'd think that a simple slotted plate like that would be a common and easy thing to find, but nope!
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Apr 2, 2015 17:04
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Please keep in mind that chainmail pants will be fairly uncomfortable to wear and sit in, unless you are wearing some sort of appropriately padded undergarments. Honestly, I would try to do the thing where you use loose-knitted fabric colored silver, this seems like the perfect use for it. neogeo0823 posted:Ok, so, I'm about ready to give up on finding something to use to hold these straps on my stilts. The closest thing I could find online to what was in the instructions was this bolt plate. I emailed them, asking for a quote, and it took them a week to get back to me and tell me that they were out of stock. Then they informed me that they have a $150 minimum order, so I basically went "Ha ha ha... No!" and now I have no idea where else to look. I've searched through McMaster-Carr, North State Supply, Fastenal, Napa Auto Parts, Value Home Centers, Lowes, Home Depot, Jo Anne Fabrics, Harbor Freight Tools, and Dival Safety, and I've asked literally every single person I had mentioned the project to, and I still cant find these loving things. You'd think that a simple slotted plate like that would be a common and easy thing to find, but nope! I tried to look back at your post history here to work out what you need this for, but it's not exactly clear to me. Do you have some sort of schematics or a diagram or something showing what you're trying to accomplish?
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Apr 2, 2015 17:11
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neogeo0823 posted:Ok, so, I'm about ready to give up on finding something to use to hold these straps on my stilts. The closest thing I could find online to what was in the instructions was this bolt plate. I emailed them, asking for a quote, and it took them a week to get back to me and tell me that they were out of stock. Then they informed me that they have a $150 minimum order, so I basically went "Ha ha ha... No!" and now I have no idea where else to look. I've searched through McMaster-Carr, North State Supply, Fastenal, Napa Auto Parts, Value Home Centers, Lowes, Home Depot, Jo Anne Fabrics, Harbor Freight Tools, and Dival Safety, and I've asked literally every single person I had mentioned the project to, and I still cant find these loving things. You'd think that a simple slotted plate like that would be a common and easy thing to find, but nope! http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Tie-Downs-Hardware/Flat-Hooks-Snap-Hooks/1-Bolt-Plate-Black-Painted-5000lbs ? e. I googled 2" bolt plate and did a super brief look through the images to find that one
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Apr 2, 2015 17:15
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EDIT: ^^^ See, this is why I get so frustrated. I look for 2 weeks and find nothing, and then in 5 minutes someone else casually googles around and finds something that'll work perfectly. It's probably because I was looking for 1.5 inch plates, seeing as that's the strap width. The 2 inch width will work fine, right? ^^^Ashcans posted:I tried to look back at your post history here to work out what you need this for, but it's not exactly clear to me. Do you have some sort of schematics or a diagram or something showing what you're trying to accomplish? Oh, sorry, yeah, I'm following this instructable, and the plates would be sewn onto the ends of the velcro straps that are used to keep my legs in the stilts. You can see the ones that guys used in the pictures in step 5, but I've been completely unable to find anything comparable at all. neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 17:16
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The plastic plates also appear to come up on some kayaking sites with "webbing bottom grommet" so there's another option. http://topkayaker.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=898 2" buckle with 1.5" strap would probably be fine too, that's not that much extra space in there.
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Apr 2, 2015 17:28
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I found the plastic ones on hudson4supplies, but they don't have any weight information listed - you could contact these companies and ask about it, though? The issue I am finding is that 1.5" seems to be an unusual size for this sort of mounting, most places are either selling 1" or 2" mounts. You could use a 2" mount if the way it is going to be strapped means the lateral space isn't an issue, or you could fold over the strap to fit it through a 1" strap - I wouldn't recommend that on a moving surface, but seeing as it gets sewn in it seems like it would be ok? In that case, here are some options for weight-rated metal options. This piece is referred to as a mounting plate or a mounting bracket, by the way: http://www.customtiedowns.com/hooks/bolt-plates/ http://www.lodimetals.com/2-floor-anchor-mounting-bracket Also metal versions without clear load ratings, but they're being sold from cargo and auto racing supply so probably reasonable? https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2382 http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/product-p/43317-18.htm http://www.425motorsports.com/takat...16-inch-m8.html
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Apr 2, 2015 17:54
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I don't need anything with a huge weight rating. The plates are used to hold the Velcro straps that hold my legs in the stilts. There's 6 straps per leg, and really anything around 300lbs would be more than enough. And yeah, I guess 1.5 inches must be a specialty thing or something. Out of what's been posted, I'll likely go with the first link that McPanterston posted, as that's the cheapest one with the right sized slot, and it also has a hole that's the right size for the bushing spacers I'm using as well. I guess I really should've asked in here first before running all over town for the last two weeks. 
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Apr 2, 2015 19:15
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neogeo0823 posted:I don't need anything with a huge weight rating. The plates are used to hold the Velcro straps that hold my legs in the stilts. There's 6 straps per leg, and really anything around 300lbs would be more than enough. And yeah, I guess 1.5 inches must be a specialty thing or something. Out of what's been posted, I'll likely go with the first link that McPanterston posted, as that's the cheapest one with the right sized slot, and it also has a hole that's the right size for the bushing spacers I'm using as well. I guess I really should've asked in here first before running all over town for the last two weeks. If you have a drill and/or Dremel, you could fab something up in aluminum for that.
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Apr 2, 2015 20:48
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Looking to do my second cosplay, and really have no idea where to start with this costume. My friend says eva foam would work. Ibexaz fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Apr 3, 2015 |
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Apr 3, 2015 01:01
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Ashcans posted:Please keep in mind that chainmail pants will be fairly uncomfortable to wear and sit in, unless you are wearing some sort of appropriately padded undergarments. Honestly, I would try to do the thing where you use loose-knitted fabric colored silver, this seems like the perfect use for it.
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Apr 3, 2015 05:46
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well should be mostly finished dante's coat this weekend. So I figured I might a well post a in progress shot.  I've only sewn one other thing in my life, so I'm pretty happy with the results so far. Dante's coat has a surprising amount of seam lines, details and there's six zippers( The dangling zippers will have to be attached to the bottom of the coat), It's been a learning experience making this thing.
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Apr 4, 2015 08:05
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All painted up! I think I might add a bit of brighter rust coloring on it before I clearcoat but in general really happy with the look.  Just hangin' out on the deck, soaking up some sun... Today's real project is getting Arthas's helmet rolling, got my pattern figured out and I'm getting it worbla'd up and put together. Super excited to start doing detail stuff!
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Apr 4, 2015 20:55
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McPantserton posted:All painted up! I think I might add a bit of brighter rust coloring on it before I clearcoat but in general really happy with the look. Lookin good!
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Apr 5, 2015 11:29
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Ibexaz posted:Looking to do my second cosplay, and really have no idea where to start with this costume. gently caress yes Licenseless Rider! Could go about that a lot of ways - I would probably try and find a jacket and pants or possibly even a bodysuit of appropriate material - looks like faux leather or lycra would work pretty well - that thing has a little turtleneck so you could probably repurpose a snug black turtleneck sweater. Most of the arms and legs stuff look like pretty standard safety gear - the only pieces you'd probably have to make mostly from scratch are the chest plates and belt, possible the helmet. But yeah, EVA foam should do just fine, especially if you use a few coats of a good resin.
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Apr 5, 2015 13:30
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Separate pants instead of a bodysuit with armor pieces over it also means you now have the ability to use the bathroom at cons in less than 10 minutes.
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Apr 5, 2015 19:01
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So how does one treat wood props to prevent warping and twisting? I will eventually be having the prop chromed, so I was thinking of using a watered down resin to impregnate the wood before adding the primer and shipping it off.
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Apr 5, 2015 22:29
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The Repo Man posted:So how does one treat wood props to prevent warping and twisting? I will eventually be having the prop chromed, so I was thinking of using a watered down resin to impregnate the wood before adding the primer and shipping it off. Warping and twisting is something that usually happens to lumber that is really wet and dries too fast. If you grab dimensional lumber (2x4's, 2x10's, etc, stuff that is sold by length, usually a softwood like pine) at a big-box lumber yard, that wood is usually very recently cut, the wood fibers are still filled with water, and it will warp as it dries and contracts. Wood you buy at a lumber yard that has multiple types of hardwoods and softwoods (and is priced by the 'board foot') is usually kiln-dried until most of the water is gone, and then it absorbs moisture from the surrounding air until it reaches a stable point. MDF, plywood, chipboard, masonite and other composite woods don't have a grain direction, and won't usually warp unless directly exposed to rain or steam or other sources of water. All wood will expand and contract across the grain naturally by a very small fraction with changes in humidity. Depending on the size of the prop and the type of wood used, warping and twisting probably won't be a problem. I don't know much about chroming, but I imagine it would be important to know what type of chroming process will be used, as the process could be affected by the type of finish applied to the wood.
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Apr 6, 2015 01:20
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http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/ Same stuff you can use on paper when doing pep should work. Dunno how horrible it'll chrome but to be honest I've never heard of someone chroming wood before.
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Apr 6, 2015 01:32
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Unibrow posted:Warping and twisting is something that usually happens to lumber that is really wet and dries too fast. If you grab dimensional lumber (2x4's, 2x10's, etc, stuff that is sold by length, usually a softwood like pine) at a big-box lumber yard, that wood is usually very recently cut, the wood fibers are still filled with water, and it will warp as it dries and contracts. Wood you buy at a lumber yard that has multiple types of hardwoods and softwoods (and is priced by the 'board foot') is usually kiln-dried until most of the water is gone, and then it absorbs moisture from the surrounding air until it reaches a stable point. The chrome thing was actually posted way earlier in the thread by the Star Lord guy. All you have to do is prime the piece properly, and make sure it's sanded super smooth. http://coatofchrome.com/ So, I probably don't need to prep the wood piece beyond primer then since it's just a small piece of thin crafting wood. Didn't say what kind it was, just something I found at Michael's which would make a nice second attempt at making a blade. Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:http://eti-usa.com/envirotex-lite/ That would probably be a bad idea for this, thanks for the suggestion though. There are model builders who use Z-Poxy Finishing Resin thinned down heavily with denatured alcohol to impregnate wood to make it extremely strong while keeping it super light. The curing time is insanely long though. EDIT: I finally got pictures of me as The Raincoat Killer from Deadly Premonition. We will be trying some other shots to get rid of the image ghosting with photos of the moving eyes at Metrocon, I think. I also need to fabric paint the coat to make it look like rust, and make me look less like a giant jawa. I am extremely bad at color use though. The original images aren't artifacted, but whenever I downscale them they artifact horrible. I don't think I should post pictures who's height is nearly 4K.   Weird color thing happening here.  Color corrected color thing. The hallway is actually extremely dark, it's just hard to tell here....  The nighttime lens used for these made the pictures a bit too bright, but hey! No dutch angle! The Repo Man fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 6, 2015 02:10
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The Repo Man posted:So, I probably don't need to prep the wood piece beyond primer then since it's just a small piece of thin crafting wood. Didn't say what kind it was, just something I found at Michael's which would make a nice second attempt at making a blade. I just grabbed a piece of craft wood I got from Michaels, and it appears to be MDF sandwiched between two thin sheets of veneer. Take a very close look at the edge of your wood prop; the thick middle part should be a uniform brown color with no grain at all, and there should be two paper-thin sheets of actual wood veneer on each face. MDF won't warp unless you soak it in water, and the grain in the veneer is too thin to affect the MDF. However, I know that Michaells also sells pieces of balsa and basswood, but it's usually in blocks or strips; but if the wood wasn't warped when you bought it at Micheal's, then you probably have nothing to worry about. Looking at the coatofchrome.com website, I found a picture of the dude doing the chroming of a giant egg, and it looks like he's using a spray-on chrome method. It appears they'll lay down a coat of their own primer to protect whatever they're chroming. Just make sure to primer the prop well and sand with as fine a sandpaper as you can, because the chrome depositing will probably show wood grain if the surface isn't perfectly smooth.
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Apr 6, 2015 07:30
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God drat making the arms on this thing was a pain in the rear end.  happy the way it came out though I hosed up the back a bit and it's a little uneven, I'll try and fix it later  Well at least Dante's weird holster should cover it.
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Apr 6, 2015 20:05
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 Scratch building this bastard is one of the hardest things we've ever done. Even with the great references from the Hot Toys figure, and movie stills, promo art and other sources, his goddamn chest has given me more headaches than I've needed over the past week. And he's not even half done yet.
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Apr 9, 2015 06:17
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MajorGravy posted:
Is that... A bust? Or a mask....
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Apr 9, 2015 07:30
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a cock shaped fruit posted:Is that... A bust? Or a mask.... Full costume! Trying to get it ready for the premier in a few weeks.
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Apr 9, 2015 08:47
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MajorGravy posted:
Totally was just admiring this guy on the RPF facebook, I didn't realize it was you!
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Apr 9, 2015 15:07
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God drat dude that's awesome! I dunno if you are going to be able to go movie accurate on this one though, dude's like 8 1/2 feet tall and has a bunch of hollow sections. It'd be kinda like trying to make a screen accurate robocop costume outta the new movie where they cgi'd the costume down to inhuman proportions. That being said, can't wait to see how it comes out!
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Apr 9, 2015 16:05
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I was going cross-eyed from looking at pepakura for so long that I decided to take a break and make something else. 
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Apr 10, 2015 02:43
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fallin1 posted:I was going cross-eyed from looking at pepakura for so long that I decided to take a break and make something else. That some Bloodborne I see?
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Apr 10, 2015 22:26
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MajorGravy posted:That some Bloodborne I see? It is, going to try and make the blunderbuss this weekend too.
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Apr 10, 2015 23:42
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So, a while back in this thread(or maybe the last Halloween thread? I dunno) someone posted a cosplay they had where they made a Sony Walkman that they plugged their phone into to play music. I remember this build specifically because they said it could play really fricken loud. Like, outside-in-the-wind loud. Does anyone have a link to it, or any other low-cost ways of taking an MP3 and playing it at a high volume with decent quality for outdoor environments?
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Apr 12, 2015 14:27
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What would you all suggest to use for making the Punpun head? I've been thinking of paper mâché but that would be a horrid box of smells to shove over my face, friend mentioned some moldable plastic poo poo made for cosplay or I thought I could carve up some foam.  And what's a good solution for making something similar to one sided glass? Was also doing a Vocaloid costume and need to throw a one-sided panel into a TV for a headpiece.
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Apr 13, 2015 14:29
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Has anyone ever seen a locking joint like what's described here? I've been trolling Google looking for hinge joints like that, and I'm drawing a blank on things that have a joint hinge that can lock in place like that that also has a release lever on one side. Does anyone have any ideas for where I should start looking?
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Apr 14, 2015 20:06
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neogeo0823 posted:Has anyone ever seen a locking joint like what's described here? I've been trolling Google looking for hinge joints like that, and I'm drawing a blank on things that have a joint hinge that can lock in place like that that also has a release lever on one side. Does anyone have any ideas for where I should start looking? Is this the kind of thing that lets you adjust the angle of some chair backs or am I misunderstanding what it's for?
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Apr 14, 2015 20:11
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Is this the kind of thing that lets you adjust the angle of some chair backs or am I misunderstanding what it's for? Probably? It's a locking hinge joint that can lock in place at predetermined spots between 0 and 180 degrees. I don't care about any other angles except for 0 and 180. This particular hinge also has a release lever built into one end that unlocks the hinge joint when it's pulled away from the arm. That's the big feature that I want in this hinge. Unfortunately, I can't think of anything I've seen in the last few years that has a hinge like that.
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Apr 14, 2015 20:27
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