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I only use mineral oil on all my chopping boards, bread boards and coasters.
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Apr 1, 2015 02:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:Old stanleys are like old smiths Spazz, the analogy breaks down with modern stanleys and we just move into hi-point territory. All my planes have been vintage yard sale finds and the like. CA glue, sandpaper, and clamps.
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Apr 1, 2015 02:49
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dcgrp posted:http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB4&Number=6983608&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=all Is that a pretty good woodworking forum? Mr. Glass posted:ignore any listings that don't have any photos of the sole. re: plane chat I would add Sargent to the list of brands worth owning. Picked up a #409 last year and it feels like a really solid tool, although I haven't tuned it yet but I have no doubt it will make a fine smoother. Impossible to date except to sometime between 1910-1943. Which reminds me, I need to tune that sucker. One of my favorites is a Siegley transitional jointer. Siegley irons were a tad heavier than Stanleys and I think that is part of what makes it nice to use. And the wood sole glides like an air hockey puck. The newest Stanley I own is a 90's British made #4. It works okay but took a lot of tuning to make it so and the mouth is still too open. Buy oldies, the oldier the better; pre-WWII preferably. I also have a cheap Buck Bros block plane that if it didn't have a gigantic mouth would be a drat fine tool.
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Apr 1, 2015 04:53
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Is there a trick to getting say a 4 foot length out of a twisted board that isn't too thin? Or am I just hosed and its whatever thickness you can manage through planing/jointing? I have a fair stock to choose from, so if I want good straight 4 foot lengths do I basically want to go through the pile of 8 foot rough cut I have of a given wood and just chop out the straightest 4 foot sections then joint them ?
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Apr 1, 2015 05:11
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swampface posted:I was using one of these purpose built clamp/guides and it just decided to not actually clamp correctly this time. I don't feel like I can trust it anymore even though it has worked well for me in the past. Funny because I have one of those same clamps and I don't feel like it grips very well at all. I even bought the wider jaws that are supposed to keep square and I just don't feel like it grips strong enough to avoid doing what happened to you. Maybe I'm using it wrong or something but I ended up just clamping down a 2x4 or something instead of using it last time I was making cuts with my circular saw.
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Apr 1, 2015 06:25
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wormil posted:Is that a pretty good woodworking forum? It's not too bad. I tend to read this one, reddit woodworking, and woodnet. On woodnet's tool swap and sell, they have some really cool stuff for a reasonable price nearly every day. And I do feel quite strongly about the quality of tablesawtom's restored planes that I posted a few posts up. His website is terrible and broken, but he's a retired machinist in Iowa. So, can't give him too much of a hard time about that. http://www.tablesawtom.com/plane.htm
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Apr 1, 2015 12:14
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Squibbles posted:Funny because I have one of those same clamps and I don't feel like it grips very well at all. I even bought the wider jaws that are supposed to keep square and I just don't feel like it grips strong enough to avoid doing what happened to you. Maybe I'm using it wrong or something but I ended up just clamping down a 2x4 or something instead of using it last time I was making cuts with my circular saw. It definitely clamps hard enough that it leaves dimples in the wood, though a light tap with a mallet will move it. I glued some leather to the jaws last night to see if that would make any difference. I think I'm of the opinion that it's a: circular saw->yes, router->no clamp, as I feel like there's less pressure against it when using a circular saw.
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Apr 1, 2015 16:40
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New toy, Delta Rockwell 46-111. Came with original stand, motor, spur center, cup center, and face plate (not sure if it's original). Also came with a half decent face shield and some old cheap turning tools. The cup center is stuck, I have it soaking in PB Blaster. It doesn't seem to be self ejecting. It's in decent condition, some light surface rust. I only ran it for 30 seconds but I didn't hear any bearing noise.
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Apr 2, 2015 03:32
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Table saw advice needed. I was trying to rip a 2x4 on my old Craftsman contractor saw with a nearly new Freud blade in it and I was getting about half way through the rip when the blade started binding up. It wasn't acting as if the wood was getting angled or anything, just that the saw didn't have enough power to get through it. I thought maybe the belt was too loose or something so I tightened it up a bit and promptly blew the breaker in my garage when I tried cutting with it again. So I'm not really sure what the problem is. Could the power in the garage be the problem? Or should I look at doing some more fine adjustments to my saw? Or maybe I need a new motor? I'm not really sure where to start. I'm more of a computer person than a mechanical person. I'm at work now and don't have the model number but its one of those old 80's belt driven Craftsman saws. Running on 110v.
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Apr 2, 2015 15:27
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1) How thick is the cord going to the wall? At 2HP, you are drawing the nearly the max amperage a standard 15amp circuit can produce. You need at least a 12 gauge cord and nothing else should be on that circuit. 2) Do you have access to 220v? Our old craftsman saw ran much stronger on 220v. 3) What blade? (Hopefully a thin kerf rip?)
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Apr 2, 2015 17:11
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1) I'm not sure on the gauge of the cable. Its fairly thick though. Has a cable going from the motor to a safety switch, and from the switch to a grounded extension cable of the same size into the wall. Seeing the mention of the maximum load on the circuit this could very well be the problem. I didn't know before but the room I store my NAS in is apparently on the same breaker as the entire garage because when I tripped it I set off the UPS for my server. 2) No 220v unfortunately. The house is a rental so I can't have it installed either otherwise I would. 3) I have this blade. Maybe I need one with more teeth or a thinner kerf for this kind of ripping? The Dreamer fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 17:30
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That just sounds like normal wacky internal pressure in most construction lumber more than a power issue. Try and rip it (carefully) from the opposite direction.
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Apr 2, 2015 17:35
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Hypnolobster posted:That just sounds like normal wacky internal pressure in most construction lumber more than a power issue. Try and rip it (carefully) from the opposite direction. Forgot to mention I tried that. It does the same thing and binds up about 2 inches from where I got coming from the other side.
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Apr 2, 2015 17:38
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Sounds like the wood is pinching the blade. Construction lumber is fairly moist, as you cut the wood will close up and pinch the blade. A 3hp saw would power it's way through or throw the board in your face but a 1.5hp saw will slow. Do you have an old 2x4 you can cut as a test? And combination blades take a good bit more power when ripping than a dedicated rip blade. If it won't cut dry lumber then turn off everything else on that breaker and try again.
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Apr 2, 2015 18:30
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Decided to bang out several end grain cutting boards last night. In the interest of efficiency I figured I'd cut it all at once. So I cut some big boards of paduk and purple heart into strips. All is well. Then I cut the same amount out of some nice hard maple I had so I could do alternating colour strips. All seemed well. Lined up all my alternating pieces and poured a ton of glue on em. Rolled it all out so it was all even. Then I started rotating the pieces so it was end grain up and I could clamp em together. About now is when I realized all the maple slices were considerably taller than the rest... I checked my sled and somehow my stop block got knocked over a good cm between boards. So every cutting board now currently looks like this: ■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■ I probably shoulda just wiped off the glue and cut the pieces again, but I was so defeated I just clamped it up and left the shop. So now I have a ton of belt sanding/hand planing to do this weekend. 
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Apr 2, 2015 19:24
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Decided to bang out several end grain cutting boards last night. In the interest of efficiency I figured I'd cut it all at once. So I cut some big boards of paduk and purple heart into strips. All is well. Been there, sucks. Cut the whole board into strips again, so you'll have ■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■ but in 1" or however wide you want. Run each of those through your table saw to knock the high points off. Reassemble as it was, or flip every other one so you have alternating colors, more of a checkerboard.
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Apr 2, 2015 19:54
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Here's the thin kerf rip blade I use. http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R01...s=thin+kerf+rip I have the same saw, but it's setup in our old barn for random projects. I always remember it being under powered on 110v.
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Apr 3, 2015 00:00
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wormil posted:Sounds like the wood is pinching the blade. Construction lumber is fairly moist, as you cut the wood will close up and pinch the blade. A 3hp saw would power it's way through or throw the board in your face but a 1.5hp saw will slow. Do you have an old 2x4 you can cut as a test? And combination blades take a good bit more power when ripping than a dedicated rip blade. If it won't cut dry lumber then turn off everything else on that breaker and try again. Thanks wormil. I'll see if I can find some dry 2x4s in my lumber pile and give it a go. I might have to contact our landlord and ask about getting some wiring redone in here because it seems a little ridiculous to have the everything in the garage tied to the same breaker as a totally different room. the spyder posted:Here's the thin kerf rip blade I use. http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R01...s=thin+kerf+rip If I can convince the landlord to have some wiring redone (long shot but he's pretty chill so no harm asking) I'll have to see if we could get a 220v plugin put in. A thin kerf blade is probably a good thing for me to have around. I'll have to pick one up. Its now on my list of things along with a dado stack and some forstner bits. The Dreamer fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Apr 3, 2015 |
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Apr 3, 2015 00:02
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The Dreamer posted:Thanks wormil. I'll see if I can find some dry 2x4s in my lumber pile and give it a go. I might have to contact our landlord and ask about getting some wiring redone in here because it seems a little ridiculous to have the everything in the garage tied to the same breaker as a totally different room. If it's in your budget, stop by harbor freight and buy a Acculink belt- it took out 60% of the vibration on ours. You can easily find a 25% off coupon and get it for under $20. A new blade and belt were the best things I ever did for that saw. If I were to use it more often, a replacement fence would be in order. Otherwise, it's been great for the $75 my dad paid for it ~ 20 years ago.
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Apr 3, 2015 00:11
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bimmian posted:Been there, sucks. Cut the whole board into strips again, so you'll have ■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■▮■ but in 1" or however wide you want. Run each of those through your table saw to knock the high points off. Reassemble as it was, or flip every other one so you have alternating colors, more of a checkerboard.
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Apr 3, 2015 01:18
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Squibbles posted:Maybe use a router flattening jig. That should be reasonably quick about taking off those high points. Assuming you have a router that is. Yea that'd be a better choice if you have a router. Here is the one I put together quickly when I needed to do something similar. Pretty easy, just make sure your rails are levels. Scrap melamine or mdf is perfect for the base.  
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Apr 3, 2015 02:42
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Squibbles posted:Maybe use a router flattening jig. That should be reasonably quick about taking off those high points. Assuming you have a router that is. Thats a good idea. I DO have a router! I'll just need to get a flat bit. Shame tomorrow is a holiday.
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Apr 3, 2015 03:11
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Thats a good idea. I DO have a router! I'll just need to get a flat bit. Even a regular old straight bit should work, it'll just take longer I guess?
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Apr 3, 2015 03:41
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The Dreamer posted:Thanks wormil. I'll see if I can find some dry 2x4s in my lumber pile and give it a go. I might have to contact our landlord and ask about getting some wiring redone in here because it seems a little ridiculous to have the everything in the garage tied to the same breaker as a totally different room. This is probably not something you should do, but I saw Matthias Wandel make a 220v connection by connecting together two 110v outlets, he's an engineer though and probably knows what he's doing, and he says it might not work in the US: http://woodgears.ca/bandmill/misadventure.html I'd also consider making a short rip fence for ripping unknown timber like that, that way if you have internal tension it won't get pinch and cause a kickback. Just some straight piece of wood bolted to your ordinary fence would work, I'd google short rip fence to find out more if you are interested.
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Apr 3, 2015 08:24
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Is there anything wrong, movement wise, with making a desk top that is like this ? Total size is 2' x 4' -  The lighter areas would be hardwood plywood while the dark will be solid wood/walnut. So I anticipate movement is not an issue.
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Apr 3, 2015 14:09
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BUGS OF SPRING posted:Thats a good idea. I DO have a router! I'll just need to get a flat bit. Don't the carbide straight cut bits for this, you want the spiral cut bits for heavy waste removal, I think.
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Apr 3, 2015 14:10
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His Divine Shadow posted:This is probably not something you should do, but I saw Matthias Wandel make a 220v connection by connecting together two 110v outlets, he's an engineer though and probably knows what he's doing, and he says it might not work in the US: I try to stay away from any residential electrical jobs more complex than swapping out fixtures but thanks for the link. I need to watch more of Wandel's videos. The short rip fence sounds like a good idea and they look super simple to get together. Thanks.
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Apr 3, 2015 14:29
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Sylink posted:Don't the carbide straight cut bits for this, you want the spiral cut bits for heavy waste removal, I think. I doubt it makes a big difference as you're probably not going to be making deep plunge cuts with a router sled for flattening. Most people seem to use large diameter bowl bits. Edit: something like this http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/vp13-2502/pc_-_groove_forming dyne fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Apr 3, 2015 |
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Apr 3, 2015 15:50
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The only router bits I own are roundover bits. I guess I'll head to Lee Valley tomorrow and grab a bowl, straight, and spiral bit! Thanks!
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Apr 3, 2015 18:15
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Alternately, "bottom cleaning bit" for roughly the same thing but with a corner instead of a radius at the outside edge of the blade: I have a 1.5" diameter one for surfacing my cnc router, works fantastically well. Although the blade on mine goes all the way up the sides, unlike that shorty in the picture. The full-depth blade is something you probably want if you're going to be hogging out material at any real depth.
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Apr 3, 2015 19:08
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Bottom cleaning bit worked out great. Thanks for the advice. Before  Jig  After  Tonight I'll cut them square and give am a final sanding to get em smooth.
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Apr 6, 2015 16:43
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I'm going to build a belt sander this spring/summer. John Heisz (youtube) just built a 2x72". I don't know that I really need a 72" sander. Next size down is 48", no point in going smaller. Usage will be sharpening, wood sanding, and light metal work, in that order. Thoughts?
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Apr 7, 2015 04:16
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So I'm a total beginner to this, looking for some advice. I have a piece of Oak (74"x25 5/8"x1 1/8", http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60274964/#/20274961) that I'm looking to crosscut about 20" off with a circular saw. Two questions: What kind of sawblade should I use to cut this? Should I be buying a rip fence/building a crosscut guide? This piece is going to be the counter for an island, but I am not sure how to finish it. I have heard Waterlox is a good way to go, but it sounds like its pretty labor intensive to apply. Are there any other finishes I should be looking at (tung oil)?
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Apr 7, 2015 20:11
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If you need it to be perfectly square, you want some sort of fence/guide rail, but just the straight edge of machine-cut sheet stock will do for a single cut.
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Apr 7, 2015 23:46
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Build to what ever the cheapest belts you can find are. 2x72 is easy to find/reasonably priced due to their popularity with knifemakers. Switching between materials (like I've seen Jimmy Diresta do) may not be such a good idea without a thorough cleaning. I've got a KMG in pieces that I need to finish up, it's just missing the motor and VFD.
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Apr 8, 2015 00:29
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Kinfolk Jones posted:So I'm a total beginner to this, looking for some advice. I have a piece of Oak (74"x25 5/8"x1 1/8", http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60274964/#/20274961) that I'm looking to crosscut about 20" off with a circular saw. I have an IKEA kitchen cart with that same oak top and have used mineral oil on it. It has held up well for the past 4 years, though I would say that using some kind of food-safe wax on top would be helpful since some foods pick up an off-putting flavor from the oak.
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Apr 8, 2015 03:53
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Laminator posted:I have an IKEA kitchen cart with that same oak top and have used mineral oil on it. It has held up well for the past 4 years, though I would say that using some kind of food-safe wax on top would be helpful since some foods pick up an off-putting flavor from the oak. Any particular brands/types of oil you would recommend? Also try to decide between the Diablo D0740A Finishing or the Diablo D0760X Ultra Finishing, would the latter be able to stand up to 1" thick oak?
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Apr 8, 2015 16:05
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Kinfolk Jones posted:Also try to decide between the Diablo D0740A Finishing or the Diablo D0760X Ultra Finishing, would the latter be able to stand up to 1" thick oak? More teeth means a smoother finish on the cut and the first Amazon review mentions cutting butcher block counter tops, so I'd go with the 60.
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Apr 8, 2015 17:27
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Kinfolk Jones posted:Any particular brands/types of oil you would recommend? I always just buy a bottle of mineral oil from a pharmacy, it will be in the laxative section. Do not apply rectally.
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Apr 8, 2015 17:41
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Laminator posted:Do not apply rectally. You're no fun. 
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Apr 8, 2015 17:47
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