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May not be the right kind of kit you are looking for!
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Apr 4, 2015 02:58
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Has anybody had Yokatta take more time to reply than the 24-48 hours they quote on their site?
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Apr 4, 2015 02:59
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dogsicle posted:Has anybody had Yokatta take more time to reply than the 24-48 hours they quote on their site? They're not accepting orders at the moment. Warehouse renovation or something, but there's been no update for a while.
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Apr 4, 2015 03:27
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Yosuke posted:They're not accepting orders at the moment. Warehouse renovation or something, but there's been no update for a while. I assumed it wouldn't take four months but I wasn't sure. e: are there any other good options for ordering exclusives? Gentei doesn't have what I want and GG's markup is worse than them.
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Apr 4, 2015 03:38
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You can message them on twitter for details I guess. Try e-mailing Gentei Kits to see if they'll accept your order, and if not there's always Goody Japan.
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Apr 4, 2015 03:44
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I'm visiting Portland right now. Are there any shops I should stop by?
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Apr 4, 2015 05:08
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So is there a difference between Pledge floor polish for tile & vinyl or for wood flooring or tile & vinyl & wood flooring?
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Apr 4, 2015 08:12
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Yes, they're not what you want. You want multisurface, since as the name implies that one works on multiple surfaces. Like plastic.
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Apr 4, 2015 08:22
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Someone for the love of god tell me that the swing-out pegs on RG weapons become easier to deal with after the aile strike, I've been trying for 20 minutes and can't get the thing to stay folded out long enough to slot into the palm
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Apr 4, 2015 09:02
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Good news then, they stopped doing it entirely.
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Apr 4, 2015 09:06
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mr. stefan posted:Someone for the love of god tell me that the swing-out pegs on RG weapons become easier to deal with after the aile strike, I've been trying for 20 minutes and can't get the thing to stay folded out long enough to slot into the palm Sanity prevailed and they replaced them with HG-esque fixed pegs from at least the Freedom Gundam onwards. edit: gently caress you, BlitzBlast! 
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Apr 4, 2015 09:06
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Been practicing putting down future with the airbrush, correct me if I'm wrong but I found the way that works for me is so lightly mist the spoon then go over it in till you can see a lights reflection pretty clearly and stop spraying that part. As it drys it loses that wet look but you know you put just enough in that area to protect it if you put enough for the reflection, right? Also with other spoons I put down 2 coats after waiting and I'm guessing that orange peel is blueish clouding of the paint? After 30 mins the blue parts of all the spoons disappeared, so I'm guessing that's not orange peel. Tenzarin fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Apr 4, 2015 |
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Apr 4, 2015 22:24
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I usually just spray the thing straight across. The Future mostly levels itself off, as long as you're not at a ridiculous PSI you shouldn't have to worry.
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Apr 4, 2015 23:08
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I ended up just putting a single coat of future on all the parts. I did a scratch test with 2 parts rubbing together both of which are kinda hidden and nether had left a mark. When I airbrushed future a few months ago it felt like I had no control and it was pooling everywhere, now its pretty hard to just have it go nuts now. Kinda weird
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Apr 5, 2015 00:48
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Tenzarin posted:Been practicing putting down future with the airbrush, correct me if I'm wrong but I found the way that works for me is so lightly mist the spoon then go over it in till you can see a lights reflection pretty clearly and stop spraying that part. As it drys it loses that wet look but you know you put just enough in that area to protect it if you put enough for the reflection, right? Also with other spoons I put down 2 coats after waiting and I'm guessing that orange peel is blueish clouding of the paint? Orange peel is exactly what it sounds like, a rough appearing texture in the paint when it's dry. It's most noticeable on gloss paint, and while you can minimize it with proper spraying, the only way to make the paint perfectly smooth is to wet sand it.
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Apr 5, 2015 02:59
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Finished the build of the RG aile strike, I eventually gave up on the rifle peg after it flat out broke after trying to finagle it. I'll probably glue it back together later, but first I'm gonna decal and panel line.
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Apr 5, 2015 08:01
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Booourns posted:Orange peel is exactly what it sounds like, a rough appearing texture in the paint when it's dry. It's most noticeable on gloss paint, and while you can minimize it with proper spraying, the only way to make the paint perfectly smooth is to wet sand it. The sanding/polish steps are only for high-gloss paint jobs, and are indeed counterproductive for eggshell and matte finishes.
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Apr 5, 2015 10:25
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Aaaaaah where did this day go I was supposed to finish painting the 1/100 GX today. Or the Exia RII. Or the 1/100 X Divider backpack.  Also I got a Pikachu kit for $5. It's actually surprisingly good, though the shade of yellow is really eh.
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Apr 5, 2015 11:59
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Completely unrelated to gunpla, but I got one of those Revell Star Wars EasyKit models and it was a mixed bag. The plastic is definitely way flimsier than gunpla (the actual sprue is about the same, so this is possibly just down to TIE Interceptors not exactly being the sturdiest of ships) and the engineering quality for the pegs the model uses to snap together was pretty bad (lots of "put these two pegs in these two holes but one peg is arbitrarily 30% shorter because the mold hosed up"), but it ended up fitting together pretty well. Until I got to the wings, that is, where the strut/wing connector hole is hexagonal and the peg is round and about 10% bigger than the hexagonal hole. You could even clearly see the outline of what would have been the hexagonal peg at the very tip of the wing peg. I shaved them off and use superglue, but it's pretty easy to forget a lot of model kits are garbage. The finished product looks pretty decent, though: http://imgur.com/a/tld7i (apologies for garbage phone pictures). Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Apr 5, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 13:14
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Lemon Curdistan posted:Completely unrelated to gunpla, but I got one of those Revell Star Wars EasyKit models and it was a mixed bag. The plastic is definitely way flimsier than gunpla (the actual sprue is about the same, so this is possibly just down to TIE Interceptors not exactly being the sturdiest of ships) and the engineering quality for the pegs the model uses to snap together was pretty bad (lots of "put these two pegs in these two holes but one peg is arbitrarily 30% shorter because the mold hosed up), but it ended up fitting together pretty well. Bandai's started making some excellent Star Wars kits if you want gunpla quality. Both characters and vehicles. Which reminds me that I gotta go track down an R2-D2 one for myself 
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Apr 5, 2015 13:38
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Bandai's started making some excellent Star Wars kits if you want gunpla quality. Both characters and vehicles. Which reminds me that I gotta go track down an R2-D2 one for myself Sadly, they don't do an Interceptor. They've only got the TIE Fighter and the x1 (because someone at Disney has decided that the x1 is iconic and should exist in every merchandise line despite being the ugliest TIE variant in the original trilogy), otherwise I would've gotten a Bandai kit. I'll probably still get one of theirs if/when they do the squint, since the Interceptor is hands-down the best snubfighter design in the entirety of Star Wars (canon and EU).
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Apr 5, 2015 13:42
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Lemon Curdistan posted:Sadly, they don't do an Interceptor. They've only got the TIE Fighter and the x1 (because someone at Disney has decided that the x1 is iconic and should exist in every merchandise line despite being the ugliest TIE variant in the original trilogy), otherwise I would've gotten a Bandai kit. I'll probably still get one of theirs if/when they do the squint, since the Interceptor is hands-down the best snubfighter design in the entirety of Star Wars (canon and EU). Look at this scrub who doesn't recognise the superiority of the TIE Defender. Trips rule, Squints drool.  .Besides, the real money kit is the 1/700 Imperial Star Destroyer.
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Apr 5, 2015 14:00
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Look at this scrub who doesn't recognise the superiority of the TIE Defender. Oh my god, you're one of those people. (Fractalsponge's Defender redesign is the only non-garbage Defender design. It's a shame the official design is a giant pile of poo poo.)
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Apr 5, 2015 14:08
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Lemon Curdistan posted:Oh my god, you're one of those people. Haha what is that even.
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Apr 5, 2015 15:10
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Lemon Curdistan posted:Oh my god, you're one of those people. Those are both real cool. I want to fly them around and make a bunch of spaceship. everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Apr 5, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 15:12
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The second one is an eyeball with wings that's like the coolest thing.
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Apr 5, 2015 15:13
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Sharkopath posted:Haha what is that even. Basically everyone involved in designing vehicles for the EU is a talentless hack and so every Imperial ship is some godawful TIE Fighter/Interceptor/Bomber variant that just sticks more wings in dumber shapes on the eyeball cockpit and you get poo poo like this:   (The old Defender design, which the Fractalsponge design is much closer to than the current "just an eyeball on a triangle" official design, is actually by far the best design to come out of the expanded universe.) Lemon-Lime fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Apr 5, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 17:08
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Wings are technically useless in space and if it had none it would just be a gundam ball.
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Apr 5, 2015 17:51
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Tenzarin posted:Wings are technically useless in space and if it had none it would just be a gundam ball. True, but they do fly in atmosphere too. How bigass drag-inducing hexagonal wings actually help in atmosphere when they're flying on antigrav anyway is another matter. Lemon Curdistan posted:Basically everyone involved in designing vehicles for the EU is a talentless hack and so every Imperial ship is some godawful TIE Fighter/Interceptor/Bomber variant that just sticks more wings in dumber shapes on the eyeball cockpit and you get poo poo like this: At least show the silliest one.  The TIE Crawler. It's a tank with only the forward-firing twin lasers, no peripheral vision, and gets piloted by TIE pilot washouts.  . The TIE Phantom was a pretty cool EU design though.To bring the thread a bit back on topic, someone stuck LED's into a Wing Gundam Zero Honoo and it is gorgeous.
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Apr 5, 2015 17:58
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Tenzarin posted:Wings are technically useless in space The wings are the solar panels used to gather power for the engine and laser cannons, so them being gigantic makes sense, and the Defender having more (because it needs to power shields and a hyperdrive and advanced targeting hardware for its ordnance payload) is at least logical enough. Tenzarin posted:and if it had none it would just be a gundam ball. I would be 100% okay with this. Just redo Star Wars scene for scene but the TIE Fighters are Balls and the X-Wings are GM Is.
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Apr 5, 2015 18:35
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Tenzarin posted:Wings are technically useless in space and if it had none it would just be a gundam ball. Lemon Curdistan posted:I would be 100% okay with this. Just redo Star Wars scene for scene but the TIE Fighters are Balls and the X-Wings are GM Is.
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Apr 5, 2015 18:50
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Lemon Curdistan posted:The wings are the solar panels used to gather power for the engine and laser cannons, so them being gigantic makes sense, and the Defender having more (because it needs to power shields and a hyperdrive and advanced targeting hardware for its ordnance payload) is at least logical enough. The solar panel explanation was always dumb as poo poo though. Radiators, maybe  e: Unrelated, but I just finished my Marasai (Unicorn) kit and man was that a step up compared to the Jehennam and Grimoire in complexity. Even the (first) gun comes in 4 parts. And such an assload of weapon options too, pretty great kit. Pimpmust fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Apr 5, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 19:22
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Okay, so I'm a fuckup and I don't know how to fix this. How am I supposed to clean panel line ink off of a painted piece without throwing black streaks all over everything? I've got a shaky hand, and on bare plastic it's plenty easy to just wipe it off, but the thinners and cotton swabs I have on hand just leave streaks all over everything and I have to repaint the piece. I'm using Sakura Microns, if that makes a difference.
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Apr 5, 2015 21:01
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:Okay, so I'm a fuckup and I don't know how to fix this. How am I supposed to clean panel line ink off of a painted piece without throwing black streaks all over everything? I've got a shaky hand, and on bare plastic it's plenty easy to just wipe it off, but the thinners and cotton swabs I have on hand just leave streaks all over everything and I have to repaint the piece. Did you put down a clear coat before panel lining?
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Apr 5, 2015 21:05
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Yeah you're pretty much screwed if you didn't put down a clear coat between the bare paint and the panel lining. I guess you could try handbrushing paint over the excess bits of panel lining, but I think you use spray cans so that might not be feasible. Stuff like this is why some people use acrylic paints to do their lining with, since then you can just wipe away excess with stuff that won't melt lacquer.
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Apr 5, 2015 21:18
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:Okay, so I'm a fuckup and I don't know how to fix this. How am I supposed to clean panel line ink off of a painted piece without throwing black streaks all over everything? I've got a shaky hand, and on bare plastic it's plenty easy to just wipe it off, but the thinners and cotton swabs I have on hand just leave streaks all over everything and I have to repaint the piece. What are you painting on top of? Did you panel line directly onto the paint or did you put down a protective coat first? Sakura Microns are great pens, but unfortunately in this instance that translates to the ink being more stubborn about being removed. I know that Sakura's are water-based, but beyond that I don't know what solvent would be good for getting rid of it outside of the usual acrylic paint thinners. I also don't know how easy it is to "re-activate" Micron markers because I've never tried. Part of the reason I love those pens is that they aren't affected by my markers when I do inked drawing. I wouldn't have considered using Sakura Microns for panel lining. I value them too much as inking pens. If you inked directly onto paint, I don't think there's much you can do to save the piece other than pray that whatever solvent will remove the ink, won't react at all with your paint. There's no shame in starting over if that's what you need to do. It's disheartening as hell, frustrating and sometimes makes you want to quit, but don't. If you have to undo hours worth of work to fix something, then bite the bullet and do it. Next time you'll probably do it even better. Everyone should remember from the previous incarnation of this thread that I had to redo a whole bunch of work when I hosed up. In the end, I ended up with a model I was really proud of. This isn't a hobby for people without patience, but patience is also something you learn.
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Apr 5, 2015 21:30
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Alright, thanks looks like I'll wait until after throwing down a gloss coat until I line. Thankfully it was only a very small part of a knee that got all smudged. One thin coat later and it looks just fine. I use Mr Super Clear gloss, will it just wipe off of that with some thinner, or will I need to take extra precautions to keep the part from getting hosed?
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Apr 5, 2015 21:41
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Now that is tight, shields it makes total sense! So when you flat coat metallic paint(Tamiya) does it still keep alittle shine?
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Apr 6, 2015 00:03
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As I recall, Micron ink can be removed from bare plastic with rubbing alcohol, but getting it off paint is probably going to be difficult-to-impossible depending on how deeply it's been absorbed. Yet another reason I absolutely avoid them for panel lining. Micron tips can't really be re-activated when they dry out or are otherwise hosed. Same with Gundam Markers. Sometimes you can shake them until your arm falls off and they'll sort of start working again, but usually not IME. ACES CURE PLANES posted:Thankfully it was only a very small part of a knee that got all smudged. One thin coat later and it looks just fine. I use Mr Super Clear gloss, will it just wipe off of that with some thinner, or will I need to take extra precautions to keep the part from getting hosed? I'd recommend careful wet-sanding with #1000 grit or finer until the blemish is gone and then re-shooting the clear coat. You are playing with fire using solvent on any painted surface unless your goal is "take everything off" or the base coat is an impervious paint type.
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Apr 6, 2015 01:18
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:I use Mr Super Clear gloss, will it just wipe off of that with some thinner, or will I need to take extra precautions to keep the part from getting hosed? Nah, Mr. Super Clear is great stuff. You shouldn't have any issues getting the micron ink off of it. Tenzarin posted:So when you flat coat metallic paint(Tamiya) does it still keep alittle shine? Nope. But you can get some interesting looks by doing that, if you want to experiment. I particularly like the look of grey primer -> Alclad gold -> flat coat. Not shiny, but interesting.
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Apr 6, 2015 03:57
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