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Any recommendations for a manual clutch replacement on a '13 YZ? I often hear about Rekluse brand but it seems they known for their auto clutches and not manual ones.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 15:36 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 08:45 |
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I put a Rekluse basket in my '11 KTM 250 XC. One year later no grooves so that's night. When it comes to actual steels and fibers, I'd just get a cheap rear end Tusk one on RMMC.
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# ? Mar 20, 2015 21:30 |
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Cool! I've never shopped at RMMC before so checking that out now. Also turned out that Rekluse do not make YZ baskets but they recommended GYTR so i'll probably go that route. The TORQDrive set from Rekluse looks kool so maybe i'll give that one a whirl. By the way, does anyone else here ride in upstate NY? Right now its still too much ice/snow to take the bike out, but not enough to snowmobile anymore. So depressing!
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# ? Mar 21, 2015 19:51 |
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Little Whiskey Throttle for your day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh6NzuEttto
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# ? Mar 22, 2015 20:16 |
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I don't actually expect anything from this but I thought it would be interesting to ask a thing. I'm going to be visiting San Antonio for the first weekend of April and would love the opportunity to ride at Cycle Ranch. I'm flying in and obviously can't bring my dirt bike. Is there anyone out there that would hypothetically let a goon borrow their bike/meet them at the park with an extra bike? Looks like there is a practice on Saturday the 4th
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# ? Mar 23, 2015 05:53 |
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DefaultPeanut posted:Brutal I don't work on Huskys too often, but I have heard they are pretty decent machines all in all. Is there any sort of milage warranty that a dealer could honor, or call up the mothership and ask for a good will helping hand on parts? I'd be interested to see what caused the failure. The PO of my YZF decided to do a homebrew wet sump conversion, and eliminated half of the oiling system, and reduced the capacity by almost half. Guess how that turned out. Update on this: took it in the shop and apparently the main bearing has gone through the engine. They're telling me I need the following in parts: Engine seals kit Gasket kit Crankshaft assembly 2x Main bearings Piston Oil/oil filter/spark plug and they're telling me it will take about 8-10 hours labour to do it. Anyone got any thoughts? E; specifically regarding the labour. I assume most goons can't really comment on the parts unless they saw photo's (which I can probably get sometime in the next 2 weeks).
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# ? Mar 23, 2015 07:42 |
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That seems pretty reasonable. They might discover something else has been thrashed in the process but that seems about right.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 01:36 |
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Z3n posted:That seems pretty reasonable. They might discover something else has been thrashed in the process but that seems about right. Awesome, thanks man. What are some other possible problems? Deciding if it's even worth it to fix. Guni fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Mar 24, 2015 |
# ? Mar 24, 2015 03:19 |
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Guni posted:Awesome, thanks man. What are some other possible problems? Deciding if it's even worth it to fix. Do they have the engine apart and on the table already? The cylinder could have been marked up, cam / valvetrain, oil pump. Has the shop figured out what the original point of failure was in your engine? It would suck if they did all that work, just to skip over the cause of the problem only to have it crop up again. I just finished an engine from a 2015 KX450F. 10.1 hours old and the guy did an oil change but put the filter in backwards - they fit perfectly in both ways. The big end rod bearing took the brunt of the damage, but stayed together long enough to let the piston carry it's self up past deck height on inertia alone, and smash the bottom of the head. Being starved for oil also trashed the cam journals, cams, oil pumps and lightly mark up the cylinder. We were able to recover the cylinder with a hone. When I was tearing it down, I found two burnt shift forks, and a semi baked clutch and then everything else associated with loving up an oil change. We get a call on Friday saying that the guy had gone our riding, an hour into it and the bike is running great until he crashed into 'some water' and hydrolocked the engine. Some people should not own dirt bikes.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 04:28 |
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DefaultPeanut posted:Do they have the engine apart and on the table already? The cylinder could have been marked up, cam / valvetrain, oil pump. Has the shop figured out what the original point of failure was in your engine? It would suck if they did all that work, just to skip over the cause of the problem only to have it crop up again. I just finished an engine from a 2015 KX450F. 10.1 hours old and the guy did an oil change but put the filter in backwards - they fit perfectly in both ways. The big end rod bearing took the brunt of the damage, but stayed together long enough to let the piston carry it's self up past deck height on inertia alone, and smash the bottom of the head. Being starved for oil also trashed the cam journals, cams, oil pumps and lightly mark up the cylinder. We were able to recover the cylinder with a hone. When I was tearing it down, I found two burnt shift forks, and a semi baked clutch and then everything else associated with fucki ng up an oil change. We get a call on Friday saying that the guy had gone our riding, an hour into it and the bike is running great until he crashed into 'some water' and hydrolocked the engine. Some people should not own dirt bikes. I have asked the dealer and they've given me a "lack of lubrication" and when I asked how that could happen (it had been serviced at the dealer at 1000KM and we changed the oil + filter at least once between that service and now - bikes at 1700KM) he said "must have been a blockage". To be honest I'm already dropping $350 on these idiots to get this far and I'd prefer if possible not to drop any more. He did say they could pull it down further (I'm not very familiar with engines, but I saw the crank and piston, so they've at least gone that far). To be honest, I'm pretty pissed as the bikes only done 1700KM and a lot of that has been dirt road riding out the back of my house. This isn't the first time somethings been wrong with it either (at about 100km old there was a faulty wire under the seat to the battery that left me stranded out the back of my house). I'm thinking I might get it running again (I know a few people that could do it, which I didn't even think of before I took it to these dick heads) and sell the fucker.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 07:57 |
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Vork!Vork!Vork! posted:
I had them plate my rm125 cylinder. Good company.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 09:35 |
Guni posted:I have asked the dealer and they've given me a "lack of lubrication" and when I asked how that could happen (it had been serviced at the dealer at 1000KM and we changed the oil + filter at least once between that service and now - bikes at 1700KM) he said "must have been a blockage". To be honest I'm already dropping $350 on these idiots to get this far and I'd prefer if possible not to drop any more. He did say they could pull it down further (I'm not very familiar with engines, but I saw the crank and piston, so they've at least gone that far). I know you're in a poo poo position and I get very squeamish at dealers as well.. Just try to remember you had a pretty catastrophic engine failure so it's going to require a little digging to find out what's wrong. Tearing your engine down to the crank isn't super hard but it does require time by a tech. $350 is maybe 3.5 or 4 hours of labor, dunno what your shop charges hourly though.. Doesn't seem totally unreasonable if they're trying to diagnose what happened. Being quite honest the fact that you have a (possibly hackjob) non-stock oiling system and (I think? Not sure if I read correctly) ran it out of oil is probably why the shop isn't being too friendly. You might just look up another engine on ebay or something and swap the whole thing then sell what you can... It's very easy to replace as one big lump just turning some bolts and labeling connectors.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 16:38 |
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Baller Witness Bro posted:I know you're in a poo poo position and I get very squeamish at dealers as well.. Just try to remember you had a pretty catastrophic engine failure so it's going to require a little digging to find out what's wrong. Tearing your engine down to the crank isn't super hard but it does require time by a tech. $350 is maybe 3.5 or 4 hours of labor, dunno what your shop charges hourly though.. Doesn't seem totally unreasonable if they're trying to diagnose what happened. I haven't changed anything on the bike (re: oil system/anything engine wise), literally the only thing I've done is add Barkbusters to it. How much more time would it take them to dig into the problem, as I said, I'm not really familiar with engines, so I don't know what else they'd have to do/open up etc?
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 22:40 |
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Find a used motor and swap it. Rebuilding it is a gigantic can of worms / pile of money.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 23:06 |
Guni posted:I haven't changed anything on the bike (re: oil system/anything engine wise), literally the only thing I've done is add Barkbusters to it. Ahh your quote from DefaultPeanut confused me. My bad man! I totally misread that. I thought you had a YZF that blew up. If they've already split the cases enough to get the crank out there's not much else to do.. I think finding a used motor is going to be pretty difficult for a one year old Husky but I know nothing about them. In this case you most definitely should have bought a WR450 like pops but hindsight is always 20/20. Maybe do some ebay'ing and some forums searching for parts. Definitely expect it to be more expensive than sourcing parts for something like a WR.
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# ? Mar 24, 2015 23:41 |
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Baller Witness Bro posted:Ahh your quote from DefaultPeanut confused me. My bad man! I totally misread that. I thought you had a YZF that blew up. Funny you should mention the WR450F, my old man actually has one - definitely should have gotten one, but you're right, hindsight is always 20/20. Also, the bikes four years old, but it's still next to impossible to find an engine, as it's the first of the 'new' engines that Husky brought out. I've found a line on a the parts from a reseller in Europe (the parts match the part #'s given to me by the shop) and as I said previously, I have got someone to actually do the rebuild for me, so should work out to around $1500 vs $3300 quoted to me by the dealer. Bikes are so good when they're running...not so much when they're broken down
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# ? Mar 25, 2015 00:28 |
Guni posted:Funny you should mention the WR450F, my old man actually has one - definitely should have gotten one, but you're right, hindsight is always 20/20. Also, the bikes four years old, but it's still next to impossible to find an engine, as it's the first of the 'new' engines that Husky brought out. I'm not so clairvoyant, I just looked at your posts from this thread. Glad you got a line on parts! Shouldn't be too bad to rebuild, just make sure you and the guy go over everything with a fine toothed comb. Don't skimp on replacing seals, bearings or anything else that could bite you in the rear end later.
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# ? Mar 25, 2015 05:18 |
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Evil the Cat posted:Cool! I've never shopped at RMMC before so checking that out now. Also turned out that Rekluse do not make YZ baskets but they recommended GYTR so i'll probably go that route. The TORQDrive set from Rekluse looks kool so maybe i'll give that one a whirl. I go to CATRA land every once and a while, but that's like a 3h drive from central VT where I am.
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# ? Mar 25, 2015 15:30 |
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Cool, that's an hour and a half drive from my friends farm where I normally ride so we'll go check it out. Probably only an hour the way he whips his truck around haha. Also, he recently dug this old thing out of storage: It's a '83 CanAm MX250LC with a fiberglass fuel tank. We tracked down some missing parts and looks like its going to get fixed for him to ride. He is excited and can't stop talking poo poo!
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# ? Mar 31, 2015 16:23 |
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That's super awesome
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# ? Mar 31, 2015 16:26 |
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Z3n was in town last weekend so we all went dirtbike riding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsAyvknqTmQ I need to figure out the case situation to fix the wind noise. I bought a new camera (sony as100v). It does image stabilization, which is great for dirt riding, but uses a narrower FOV, making the aiming more critical.
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# ? Apr 1, 2015 15:00 |
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Gullous posted:Z3n was in town last weekend so we all went dirtbike riding: Oh man, poor Jordan @ around 5 in. lol, "I'll delete it." Good conditions though, was a great day! That thing is bitchin' as hell!
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# ? Apr 1, 2015 20:41 |
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Finally getting around to a rebuild on my 02 KTM 300exc. This is the stock top end. PO had a horrible old air filter on it, obviously it's sucked some dirt through. What the hell would cause all this pitting on the crank though, and is it a problem?? After seeing that I expected the rod bearing to be shot, but there is zero vertical play. Here's what the cylinder and piston look like
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# ? Apr 3, 2015 18:41 |
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Just got a great deal on an 08 KTM XC 200 W. Problem is I can't get it home from the dealer. Guess I should have bought a truck, whoops!
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# ? Apr 3, 2015 23:37 |
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Mikemo Tyson posted:Just got a great deal on an 08 KTM XC 200 W. Problem is I can't get it home from the dealer. Guess I should have bought a truck, whoops! You should be able to wheelie that thing back to your house no problem
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# ? Apr 4, 2015 01:35 |
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DrakeriderCa posted:You should be able to wheelie that thing back to your house no problem Dear god this thing rips. Almost wheelied off the back by goosing it in second. This motor is completely opposite of what I'm used to from my RM. e: After a couple runs through my little proving grounds I have to say that this bike is the most awesome thing I've ever been on. Now I have to get a way to haul it around so I can actually get it above 3rd gear. Mikemo Tyson fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Apr 5, 2015 |
# ? Apr 4, 2015 21:55 |
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Gullous posted:Z3n was in town last weekend so we all went dirtbike riding: nice quad tracks
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# ? Apr 5, 2015 07:30 |
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The 2011 250 XC is now ready to go for the year: We rebuild the top end replaced the starter motor and completed the 'wet' mod for longetivity (remains to be seen) replaced the rear brake lever bearings rebuild the rear master cylinder added a flywheel weight New carb hoses (heh) My '14 250 XCF-W's is ALMOST ready for spring racing: I adjusted the valves New chain and sprockets New grips Greased the wheel bearings and steering head bearings The suspension is out for a revalve and a freshening up and I'm considering buying bib mousse this year because I suffered a couple flats last year I probably have another month of waiting for VT riding, but I hope to head south a few times when the bike is all back together. In the mean time, mountain bike cross training and the last vestiges of back country skiing.
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# ? Apr 5, 2015 15:52 |
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Cross-post from pictures & videos. Babby's first YZ125 is mostly done. Time to crash it and/or blow the engine up so I can justify porting it because I like garbage bikes. I've never ridden on a track before and I'm lucky enough to have an OHV park somewhat close that I can (very slowly) learn on.
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# ? Apr 7, 2015 02:07 |
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Time to don the pink and purple gear. That thing is rad as heck.
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# ? Apr 8, 2015 01:28 |
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Yerok posted:
That's going to be such a great learning bike. Once you do move up to something more modern you will appreciate it all the more, while still loving that retro little beast.
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# ? Apr 9, 2015 00:14 |
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PoopSok posted:That's going to be such a great learning bike. Once you do move up to something more modern you will appreciate it all the more, while still loving that retro little beast. f learning, 125's are super hard to ride Where you riding the thing? Moto X or trails or woods or doonz?
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# ? Apr 9, 2015 18:47 |
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VTNewb posted:
Sorry if you've talked about this recently but I haven't looked at this thread in a couple of years - what trials tire are you running? I've tried most at this point and have settled on either the Pirelli or the shinko as the best for me but curious what you think since you race such vastly different terrain than I do. Shinko is kind of hard to find but the cheapest in cost at about 70 bucks. It's a decent compromise between a knob and a tt but still offers terrible side grip. Lasts a lifetime too.
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# ? Apr 9, 2015 22:46 |
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# ? Apr 9, 2015 23:13 |
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Tape Leg posted:Sorry if you've talked about this recently but I haven't looked at this thread in a couple of years - what trials tire are you running? I've tried most at this point and have settled on either the Pirelli or the shinko as the best for me but curious what you think since you race such vastly different terrain than I do. Shinko is kind of hard to find but the cheapest in cost at about 70 bucks. It's a decent compromise between a knob and a tt but still offers terrible side grip. Lasts a lifetime too. I use the Pirelli simply because the one pictured has over 20 races on it. They last for god drat ever. I don' really use them myself though unless I'm Turkey Running or dual sporting. Knobby for racing for me.
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# ? Apr 9, 2015 23:16 |
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VTNewb posted:I use the Pirelli simply because the one pictured has over 20 races on it. They last for god drat ever. I don' really use them myself though unless I'm Turkey Running or dual sporting. Knobby for racing for me. Well that's good to hear. I'm using the Pirelli currently but it's the first time I've tried it. Hooks up about the same as the others but I don't have enough rides on it to speak to its life span yet but if you've put that kind of pressure on to the one in the picture then I guess I have nothing to worry about. Makes me wonder what the hell dunlops deal is cause you're lucky to get 300 miles on to one of theirs before the chunking begins.
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# ? Apr 10, 2015 01:56 |
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Kansas City highways are boring, and I'm thinking about selling my street bike and getting my first dirt bike. Would this be worth the 4 hour drive to pick up? 2003 kdx220 for $1650 http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/4962936023.html Or this more local one for $1800 http://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/4933116282.html What about a 250 dual sport? The closest trails are about an hour away, this would save me the hastle of renting a trailer or something and I could still ride around town a bit. 2003 DRZ-250 for $2,200 http://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/4966453378.html 2008 CRF230L for $2600 http://kansascity.craigslist.org/mcy/4914607481.html or this one for $2450 http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/4966635385.html I'd like to keep expenses under $2,500 so I can pretty much cover it selling my current bike. Dutymode fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Apr 14, 2015 |
# ? Apr 14, 2015 21:20 |
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While I'd normally say a real dirt bike is dramatically different experience than a dual sport, a KDX 200 has the same 'problem' that the dual sports have - dramatically undersprung front ends. For a beginner I wouldn't worry about it. Your big decision point is whether or not you want real offroad grip when riding trails. Dual sport tires are a pretty hairy compromise. If you want to ride around on the road, it's a compromise you have to make. Either way, those bikes are bound to have something wrong with them somewhere. I can almost guarantee the chassis bearings in the KDX are toasty. A good way to save money is to put the bike on the stand and verify which ones are bad, then talk the guy down $150 bux for each bad bearing.
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# ? Apr 15, 2015 02:53 |
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Thanks, VTNewb. You said a KDX200 has the dual sport "problem", did you mean the 220? When you say chassis bearings you mean swingarm bearings? Would I just check for any play? I put my 2002 SV up on CL last night and already had a guy offer to trade a 2007 klx250s, if it's in good shape that might be hard to turn down. Edit: Is there something else I should be looking for as a starter bike in my price range? Dutymode fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Apr 15, 2015 |
# ? Apr 15, 2015 15:38 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 08:45 |
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Dutymode posted:Thanks, VTNewb. You said a KDX200 has the dual sport "problem", did you mean the 220? When you say chassis bearings you mean swingarm bearings? Would I just check for any play? All of the last generation KDX (200 or 220 from 95-06) share noodly front forks. I've owned five or six KDX's over the past 10 years and due to their age you can expect to need to replace: Wheel bearings Swingarm bearings Linkage bearings Steering head bearings Reeds Expansion pipe hardware(flex joints) and O-Rings Silencer packing Sometimes crank seals And of course the chain/sprockets/brake pads/cables The engines can very seriously do 30,000 miles on a top end with proper lubrication. That sounds like a lot, I'd argue you're likely going to have to address at least 3 of those things on the list immediately. All of these things can be checked prior to purchase except the reeds and crank seals. Any bike in your price range is subject to a similar list. Spend $1,400-$1,800 on a good KDX and the rest in getting it shod with new tires and the regular maintenance items - life will be good.
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# ? Apr 15, 2015 19:53 |