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Someone I know through Facebook knew this guy RIP http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/...ow/46802432.cms
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Apr 4, 2015 10:20
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Zo posted:Nah. Hes always the first to pull the plug on his groups climbs, like the season when the canadian lady croaked. Hes the real deal afaict And to be fair, he hasn't lost a climber yet. That's probably because he's big man on campus with the commercial climb groups so he gets to get his climbers up and down the mountain as early as possible. A lot of the el-cheapo climb groups lean on Himalayan Experience for resources, like doctors, sherpas, and O2. He lost a couple of mates in the 1996 storm*, I doubt he's being cynical about people dying on the mountain. But he's earning a shitload of money in the process, so I say think about him whatever you want. Picnic Princess posted:Someone I know through Facebook knew this guy RIP 
DPM fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Apr 4, 2015 |
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Apr 4, 2015 11:41
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Zo posted:Nah. Hes always the first to pull the plug on his groups climbs, like the season when the canadian lady croaked. Hes the real deal afaict Bullshit. He criticized the gently caress out of Outdoor Adventures for not somehow wrestling the Canadian woman off the Hillary Steps, when all you need to do is watch the three seasons of his reality show to realize he's had plenty of clients with summit fever he has been unable to turn around. The difference is he's been super loving lucky and none of them died. Furthermore, he criticizes the gently caress out of people for leaving the Canadian on the mountain, when he straight up told his climbers to ignore David Sharp on their decent and possibly (according to some of his clients) on their way up. So while I believe he takes client safety seriously, a lot of what he says about other expeditions is windbaggery. ZombieLenin fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Apr 4, 2015 |
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Apr 4, 2015 16:17
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ZombieLenin posted:Bullshit. He criticized the gently caress out of Outdoor Adventures for not somehow wrestling the Canadian woman off the Hillary Steps, when all you need to do is watch the three seasons of his reality show to realize he's had plenty of clients with summit fever he has been unable to turn around. Lol what the gently caress are you talking about? None of this sounds like him secretly praying for climber deaths, which is what i was responding to. I get that you have some kind of strange hate boner for the man but leave me out of it tia
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Apr 4, 2015 16:25
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Zo posted:Lol what the gently caress are you talking about? None of this sounds like him secretly praying for climber deaths, which is what i was responding to. I get that you have some kind of strange hate boner for the man but leave me out of it tia No, you were responding to someone who said a lot of what Brice says about other expeditions is about marketing and doesn't really reflect his opinions about, for example, the effort put into rescuing people in serious trouble in the death zone. To which, you replied Brice is the genuine "artifact." The claim about Brice celebrating death on the mountain was an off the cuff joke ancillary to the whole conversation. ZombieLenin fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Apr 7, 2015 |
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Apr 4, 2015 16:44
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I just saw The Summit on Netflix and feel like I just watched a snuff film. Apparently, the most recent 20 or so fatalities were all at or around that loving bottleneck with the overhanging serac. Just look at that thing: 
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Apr 4, 2015 16:50
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Is K2 actually technically complex, or is it just unpredictable and its location remote?
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Apr 4, 2015 16:52
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Meatwave posted:I just saw The Summit on Netflix and feel like I just watched a snuff film. I know this is heading in "oxygen tube escalator" territory, but maybe they should shoot the K2 Serac with a howitzer. According to Alan Arnette, teams are assembling at base camp. quote:Latest Everest News – April 3, 2015 And Arnette is going up Lhotse this year, the peak that you climb if you take a right turn at Everest Camp 4. 
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Apr 4, 2015 17:03
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midnightclimax posted:Is K2 actually technically complex, or is it just unpredictable and its location remote? K2 is actually a technically difficult climb.
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Apr 4, 2015 18:07
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There's really no other way up K2 besides under the death ice?
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Apr 4, 2015 18:17
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A businessman local to my area is making an attempt. The article makes him seem somewhat prepared for it. I await to see what happens http://www.al.com/business/index.ssf/2015/04/birmingham_ceo_departing_for_h.html quote:Having been there, and at least having gotten a taste of it, I'm hoping it'll be different this time," Stewart said. "There's this misconception that anybody can just walk up to the top or pay somebody to carry you, which is just so far from the truth. Everest gets a bad rap for being kind of a tourist mountain, but some of the most experienced climbers in the world struggle with Everest."
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Apr 4, 2015 18:26
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Cojawfee posted:There's really no other way up K2 besides under the death ice? Here's a brief overview. I Greyhound posted:I know this is heading in "oxygen tube escalator" territory, but maybe they should shoot the K2 Serac with a howitzer. That wouldn't do anything but make it even more unstable. It's loving massive and it's ice not just snow.
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Apr 4, 2015 18:56
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Wasabi the J posted:There are several routes, but most of them are considered suicidal. I think this says a lot about how insane you have to be to climb K2. Like the south side is for you 'if you're not afraid of avalanches'.. except every route on K2 gives you I think a statistical chance of 25% if you die, of dieing in an avalanche. So the with the south route you have an even higher chance of being killed by avalanche, but hey if you're completely loving insane and not afraid of leaving your life up to complete luck..even more so than all the other routes... this is the route for you
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Apr 4, 2015 20:08
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Just hanging out at 7800ft in Big Bend 
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Apr 4, 2015 22:34
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Wasabi the J posted:That wouldn't do anything but make it even more unstable. It's loving massive and it's ice not just snow. I thought about it, and you're probably quite right. Dump thousands of tons of snow and ice down into lower atmospheric regions where it's prone to melt and collapse even more randomly? Oh gently caress yeah bud. Oh K2, you are the Ice Serac of my Heart.
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Apr 5, 2015 01:42
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Have people tried portable oxygen concentrators for mountaineering? It seems like one that has been re-engineered for light weight and to run directly off a small gas motor instead of batteries would give a lot more breathable oxygen per kg than schlepping tanks around.
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Apr 5, 2015 01:57
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Ogive posted:I thought about it, and you're probably quite right. Dump thousands of tons of snow and ice down into lower atmospheric regions where it's prone to melt and collapse even more randomly? Oh gently caress yeah bud. What hosed everyone in 08 even more than just the serac repeatedly collapsing was the fact that it scattered huge chunks of ice all over the bottleneck. So yeah no good there.
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Apr 5, 2015 03:36
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Wasabi the J posted:There are several routes, but most of them are considered suicidal. I don't get it, the Chinese routes, especially the North Ridge, sound so much easier than the Pakistani routes. Why don't more people take them? Hell, it sounds like if you went up there with industrial equipment (hahaha) you could just put a railing on it and then anyone could climb K2.
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Apr 5, 2015 03:40
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Doesn't China limit who can climb their mountains? I remember hearing it's (or was) really hard to get a permit to climb the Chinese side of Everest (Tibet).
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Apr 5, 2015 03:42
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Frozen Horse posted:Have people tried portable oxygen concentrators for mountaineering? It seems like one that has been re-engineered for light weight and to run directly off a small gas motor instead of batteries would give a lot more breathable oxygen per kg than schlepping tanks around. I don't think that exists yet. If you could make one small enough to fit in a pack and just use white gas same as your cooking stove, then it might be an option. Some enterprising goon up to the challenge?
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Apr 5, 2015 04:03
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mistressminako posted:Google has set up a Virtual Trek of the Khumbu region complete with videos and popup information on the areas in and around Everest. The ambient sounds and walkarounds in the museums and temples in this are so cool.
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Apr 5, 2015 05:23
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Picnic Princess posted:I don't think that exists yet. If you could make one small enough to fit in a pack and just use white gas same as your cooking stove, then it might be an option. Burning fuel and using up oxygen to concentrate oxygen is kinda  Cojawfee posted:Doesn't China limit who can climb their mountains? I remember hearing it's (or was) really hard to get a permit to climb the Chinese side of Everest (Tibet). Pretty much this, although at K2 it's not Tibet on the other side. China does not rely on alpine tourism bucks like Nepal and Pakistan do, so they really drag their feet on this stuff. But even if you were to open up the gates on the Chinese route, logistically, it'd be worse than Everest, as the camp sites are ridiculously small. You would have to get dozens of people coordinated very well to not be literally stepping over each other on a single ridge. You normally get one or two shots at the summit a year, so it would be chaos with more than a handful of climbers. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Apr 5, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 05:26
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midnightclimax posted:Is K2 actually technically complex, or is it just unpredictable and its location remote? I'm pretty sure K2 has the high technical difficulty level of D6 (this depends on the scale you use)--extremely loving difficult. From what I recall the easy part of the summit attempt is a 45 degree ascent.
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Apr 5, 2015 20:06
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Any consensus on what is the best book on K2? I just finished Touching the Void and Into Thin Air and I'm starting Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-meter Peak tonight. I need more.
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Apr 5, 2015 20:13
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Happy Hedonist posted:Any consensus on what is the best book on K2? I just finished Touching the Void and Into Thin Air and I'm starting Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-meter Peak tonight. I need more. Ed Viesturs' K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain is pretty good, he talks about his K2 climb a little but most of it is about the history of K2 and some of its most famous climbs and attempts. It's a fun and exciting read and Viesturs is himself one of the top climbers ever over 8000 meters, so he writes from a position of expertise. I'm sure that there are some fantastic books about individual years and climbs but Viesturs covers the whole history and you can go from that to find more detailed stuff on specific noteworthy climbs like Americans in '53 or whatever. gohuskies fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Apr 5, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 21:24
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Frozen Horse posted:Have people tried portable oxygen concentrators for mountaineering? It seems like one that has been re-engineered for light weight and to run directly off a small gas motor instead of batteries would give a lot more breathable oxygen per kg than schlepping tanks around. Considering it doesn't exist, no, no one has tried a portable gas powered oxygen generator.
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Apr 6, 2015 02:16
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If there was an easier way of getting oxygen on the summit besides oxygen bottles, I'm sure some rich moron would have done it. At some point in the future, someone will probably build the pressurized escalator to the top. For a few thousand dollars, be carried to the top to the observation dome and watch climbers die in real time. People might even climb to the top of the observation dome just to get even higher.
Cojawfee fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 6, 2015 02:38
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I don't think an oxygen concentrator would function in the environment on Everest. They have a lot of sensitive components.
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Apr 6, 2015 03:51
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Happy Hedonist posted:Any consensus on what is the best book on K2? I just finished Touching the Void and Into Thin Air and I'm starting Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-meter Peak tonight. I need more.
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Apr 6, 2015 06:42
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Happy Hedonist posted:Any consensus on what is the best book on K2? I just finished Touching the Void and Into Thin Air and I'm starting Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-meter Peak tonight. I need more. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_books_about_K2 anything by someone who was there
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Apr 6, 2015 17:13
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If any of you all like theatre, the play "K2" is a short, good read. It obviously isn't a super technical text but is still a good read. There is also a play called "Terra Nova", which is about the Scott expedition to the Antarctic. It is also a very good read if you are into this stuff.
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Apr 6, 2015 19:23
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I really want someone to find Malory and Irvine's camera, and I want it to be the case that these crazy fuckers summitted an 8000m peak, and the tallest one at that, in 1924.
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Apr 6, 2015 21:29
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ZombieLenin posted:I really want someone to find Malory and Irvine's camera, and I want it to be the case that these crazy fuckers summitted an 8000m peak, and the tallest one at that, in 1924. This has come up a couple times, but unless they find it on the summit under 90 years worth of snow and ice, I don't think it would help much. There is no way the undeveloped film would last that long in the elements.
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Apr 6, 2015 22:18
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Gripen5 posted:This has come up a couple times, but unless they find it on the summit under 90 years worth of snow and ice, I don't think it would help much. There is no way the undeveloped film would last that long in the elements. Actually my understanding is that Kodak scientists have studied the possibility of developing film from 1924 found on Everest and concluded it should be possible.
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Apr 6, 2015 23:35
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ZombieLenin posted:Actually my understanding is that Kodak scientists have studied the possibility of developing film from 1924 found on Everest and concluded it should be possible. Interesting. I hadn't heard such a thing. Either way. I would definitely like more certainty on Mallory's accent, but I have a feeling we know about as much as we ever will.
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Apr 7, 2015 04:38
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Madcosby posted:This isn't a gopro but it is people falling off a mountain lmfao I am going to hell I laughed until I got cramps
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Apr 7, 2015 07:31
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Gripen5 posted:Interesting. I hadn't heard such a thing. Either way. I would definitely like more certainty on Mallory's accent, but I have a feeling we know about as much as we ever will. I'm pretty sure it was Received Pronunciation.
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Apr 7, 2015 08:05
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Gripen5 posted:Interesting. I hadn't heard such a thing. Either way. I would definitely like more certainty on Mallory's accent, but I have a feeling we know about as much as we ever will. You are probably right; however, it's such a good mystery and you, or me at least, really want to believe that these guys made it to the top since it cost them their lives.
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Apr 7, 2015 19:27
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Skilleddk posted:lmfao I am going to hell I'm glad I have a hell-buddy. I was intensely ashamed at how much I laughed at this
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Apr 7, 2015 19:36
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I used to think about maybe one day climbing some big mountains - not Everest or K2, but maybe the Matterhorn or Kilimanjaro. Then I went to Zermatt and took the cable car up to the Klein Matterhorn at a relatively measly height of 3820m. Under no physical strain at all I still felt very uncomfortable, like I was on the verge of being sick or passing out, or both. I can't imagine dealing with that feeling at even higher altitudes while doing physically demanding tasks, so I'll just leave that to other people and I'll just continue reading about it/watching movies about it.
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Apr 7, 2015 19:49
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