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McMadCow posted:This is true. Or, you can look up the job that needs doing on Pelican Parts and buy just the tools from the tool list. After a few jobs you'll have basically everything you'll need for most jobs on that particular car. That's pretty much how I started, basic set of hand tools, then I'd buy whatever tools I needed to do a job. Then I had new experience, plus tools. Over time I got to have a good bit of knowledge for repair jobs and a lot of tools.
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Apr 4, 2015 17:12
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EVERYWHERE 
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mechaet posted:Hi, Seattle BMW guy here. Another Seattle E46 goon here.
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Apr 4, 2015 18:20
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Dyscrasia posted:I was thinking about this since I don't know how to weld and need a new subframe anyway. I just bit the bullet on this subframe. They gave me a good deal on adding and installing poly subframe bushings.it uses the e36 eccentric bolts. I've done stock bushings before and it was a huge pain in the rear end, so that's worth something to me. I'll post how it works out in a month or so when I get it installed.
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Apr 4, 2015 19:35
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I think you made a good choice. Doing it over, with a looser budget, I'd go for one of those subframes that are powder coated, too.
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Apr 4, 2015 20:30
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quote:The stock e30 rear subframes does not allow you to align the rear wheels. ... really? not even toe?
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Apr 4, 2015 20:42
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Picked up a black metallic 2015 328i this week. It's the girlfriends daily driver since she has the shorter commute and it's her first car in 12 years. This thing is a blast to drive. I'm actually surprised how roomy the interior is considering none of the equivalents are.
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Apr 4, 2015 21:03
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piercedbronson posted:... really? not even toe? Nope, nothing.
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Apr 4, 2015 21:04
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POKEMAN SAM posted:A little ol' F82. Also I'm actually an eastside goon, but close enough. But actually I'm in Hawaii for a week, so... Another EDIT: Seattle is not the Eastside. Bad transplant Fox_bat fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Apr 5, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 04:31
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Anyone know of someone selling a N54 JB4?
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Apr 5, 2015 05:46
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Jesus Christ. The loving battery ground connector is deformed. It's not visible to the naked eye but if you tighten it all the way and then wiggle it a bit you can hear a clicking sound. It doesn't visibly wiggle, but it is losing connection to the battery. I polished the inside of the connector ring and attached it and the error is completely gone for the entire rest of the day, still hasn't returned. If this was it... goddamn. I haven't unpacked the LCM from the packaging yet so i can send that back. I removed the battery and the tail lights and tested each wire in the lights with a test light, i tore out the interior to look at the wire between the lever and the LCM. It feels like i tore down and reassembled the car 3 times trying to diagnose this. And it's the god damned battery connection. I can't properly put in words how difficult it was to find this error, and how much i laughed when i found it. I was nearly 1000$ into troubleshooting, and seriously considering putting the car in a field somewhere. If the problem doesn't come back in the next few days i've at least saved myself 500$ for the new LCM + programming. *edit* Nevermind, problem was cured for 2 days but is now back. I replaced the ground cable to the battery and no luck. Back to square one. Killstick fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Apr 5, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 08:51
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coolmancraig posted:I managed to get out and see this car today. Seemed like a fairly straight and honest car but it had its quirks, the main one being the owner. This guy was the perfect goon and wouldn't shut up which meant it was kind of hard to get a good look. It was stone cold when I got there, fired right up and ran great. Looked like it has a new waterpump, brake master cylinder, oil filter housing etc. so a good owner in its past (past this guy, that is). I haven't had much experience with the ZF 5 speed autos, but have had an E30 and E34 with the 4 speed, and it honestly sounds pretty typical for most autos I've been in, like my old EL falcon or my gf's SG Subie Forester. Have a look at the fluid on the dipstick if you like, may just need a service or something. Pity about the majority of Australian delivered BMWs being autos, for sure. Also as someone else pointed out the clunking in the front is just just the bushes in the front, maybe even the ball joints, in a big heavy E34 those things get ate the gently caress up. For $4k and the PPI mechanic's blessing, I think you could do a lot worse. Did you check out the other one 30 mins away, just for comparison?
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Apr 5, 2015 10:56
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Killstick posted:Jesus Christ. At least you will have grown from this experience
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Apr 5, 2015 14:38
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piercedbronson posted:At least you will have grown from this experience No happy endings. It's still blinking. I'm seeing orange flashes in my dreams at this point.
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Apr 5, 2015 14:40
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Comrade Flynn posted:Anyone know of someone selling a N54 JB4? http://www.e90post.com/forums/ is probably going to be your best bet.
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Apr 5, 2015 14:48
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hawaiian_robot posted:
With the E34 it's always the drat thrust arms. If it isn't the thrust arms then they may have been a problem in the past and destroyed the rest of the suspension with the shimmy.
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Apr 5, 2015 14:54
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Killstick posted:No happy endings. It's still blinking. I'm seeing orange flashes in my dreams at this point. Sucks. Sounds like it almost has to be that light control module, if you've checked all the pinouts.
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Apr 5, 2015 15:44
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It's the only thing left to check. It's just so frustrating because the error refuses to react to anything we try. Remo e the rear light housings? Blinking. Change the lever? Blinking. Pull off the battery and swich out the connections? Blinking. Then at any point during the process it'll stop blinking for an hour or more. Was it because of something we did or is it just random? Hint: it's totally random so far. So basically all we can do is refresh parts in the car untill the fault goes away, hopefully permanently.
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Apr 5, 2015 17:49
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Killstick posted:It's the only thing left to check. It's just so frustrating because the error refuses to react to anything we try. Remo e the rear light housings? Blinking. Change the lever? Blinking. Pull off the battery and swich out the connections? Blinking. Then at any point during the process it'll stop blinking for an hour or more. Was it because of something we did or is it just random? Hint: it's totally random so far. So basically all we can do is refresh parts in the car untill the fault goes away, hopefully permanently. I think you said you checked the grounds but did you really check them? I had a somewhat similar problem to you recently and I found that the grounds looked fine until I unscrewed it and saw corrosion inside of the plastic cover. I took it off and cleaned it and have been problem free since. I'd specifically check the ground on the driver's side footwell under the carpet.
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Apr 5, 2015 18:36
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Crosspost from CL thread: If this weren't on the other side of the state I'd pick this up today. I'm posting here as perhaps one of you goons are closer and interested in a similar find. It looks kind of run of the mill neglected but it's a manual wagon, a nice color, and it has the sport package. And it's cheap. Add all the bushings and a cooling system.  http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/4963120130.html ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 5, 2015 18:44
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Killstick, have you looked into reflowing the solder joints in your LCM? I would try that first, probably replace the relays and look for busted caps and burnt resistors. I've seen guides for e39s. My honeymoon with the 540i is over. Only regulator I haven't replaced took a poo poo Friday. gently caress this.
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Apr 5, 2015 19:33
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Lord Zuthulu posted:I think you said you checked the grounds but did you really check them? I had a somewhat similar problem to you recently and I found that the grounds looked fine until I unscrewed it and saw corrosion inside of the plastic cover. I took it off and cleaned it and have been problem free since. I'd specifically check the ground on the driver's side footwell under the carpet. Didn't know there was a ground under there, new lead! It's too late tonight to start digging into the car but tomorrow i'll check that one. Any other hidden grounds i should know about? I've checked the ones in the engine bay, the one on the right side tail light and of course the main one to the battery. I'm open to any suggestions right now, so please feel free to throw in your 2 cents.
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Apr 5, 2015 19:40
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Killstick posted:Didn't know there was a ground under there, new lead! It's too late tonight to start digging into the car but tomorrow i'll check that one. Any other hidden grounds i should know about? I've checked the ones in the engine bay, the one on the right side tail light and of course the main one to the battery. I'm open to any suggestions right now, so please feel free to throw in your 2 cents. There's 2 more under the drivers seat, you won't miss them. Undo the seat, tilt it back (unplug negative from battery if you're worried you might unplug the seat wiring as this can cause an airbag light if it's disconnected) and you can pull the carpet up enough to get at them. There's foam you have to remove too but it's not hard. There's also a couple under the passenger side seat and a fuse box there that can get wet. Unscrew the shoe to check on the wires though. Mine looked fine but wasn't once I got a better look.
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Apr 5, 2015 20:54
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Lord Zuthulu posted:There's 2 more under the drivers seat, you won't miss them. Undo the seat, tilt it back (unplug negative from battery if you're worried you might unplug the seat wiring as this can cause an airbag light if it's disconnected) and you can pull the carpet up enough to get at them. There's foam you have to remove too but it's not hard. There's also a couple under the passenger side seat and a fuse box there that can get wet. When you say "undo the seat" do you mean the 2 bolts in the front that attach the rails to the floor and the 2 bolts in the back that attach the seat to the rails? Or is there some mechanism to undo it from the rails? Will the seat be entirely lose or is it still attached at the back? Losening the rail in the front but not in the back makes no sense to me.
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Apr 6, 2015 11:53
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Just remove to bolts holding the rails to the floor. There should be four, two front and two rear. Slide the seat forward to uncover the rear ones.
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Apr 6, 2015 12:49
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Data Graham posted:Just remove to bolts holding the rails to the floor. There should be four, two front and two rear. Slide the seat forward to uncover the rear ones. Yeah i got it, the grounds are fine. I'm starting to doubt that it's a grounding problem at all, since the way the blinkers work if anything it's grounding too much when it shouldn't. And i can't see any other cause then the box being broken.
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Apr 6, 2015 13:49
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The parts to replace my 540i's tensioner should show up tomorrow. I learned something: I have the special tools to remove the mechanical fan nut (32mm wrench and a hold-down for the water pump pulley) but I bought them for my E36. The E39's pulley nuts are spaced differently and it didn't fit, and I ended up cracking the pulley. A $20 pulley isn't worth the $70 or whatever for the E39's holddown though. Still, that nut self-tightens, right? I don't have to torque it to a particular spec, do I? I don't want to crack the new pulley by holding it down with the wrong tool.
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Apr 6, 2015 14:10
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Smashed a fog so decided to remove them totally. Who makes brake ducts that fit in there other than bimmerworld? At the moment you can see a stupid white washer bottle and once I fit these K sports I think some heat management would be worthwhile.
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Apr 6, 2015 17:06
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The main ones I've seen are either Bimmerworld or DIY's using ducting/flex hose from a hardware store.
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Apr 6, 2015 18:52
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:The main ones I've seen are either Bimmerworld or DIY's using ducting/flex hose from a hardware store. On the diy ones what do people use as the "mouth" ? Just s piece of pipe seems a bit poo poo/like it isn't gonna take much air in?
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Apr 6, 2015 18:55
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Bape Culture posted:On the diy ones what do people use as the "mouth" ? Just s piece of pipe seems a bit poo poo/like it isn't gonna take much air in? Then they have a bit of tubing that snakes along to the back plastic bit behind the rotor, dont know what it's called. Cut a notch in that bit and secure the hose using some sort of flange that attaches to the hose. I know that Turner Motorsports has them available here in the US, and a lot of the other sites probably have something similar.
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Apr 6, 2015 19:03
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Considering adding a little MP3 adapter box to my 2007 E90, one of the things the GROM audio people note is that the stereo needs to be 'coded for CDC' which I'm guessing is 'I have a CD Changer' that the MP3 unit then emulates? Is there any way of checking if my stereo unit is already set up like this, or will it definitely NOT be if I don't have the factory fitted CD changer in the trunk? There's a dealer just round the corner I can visit if it needs a black box plugging in to check.
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Apr 6, 2015 22:03
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Bape Culture posted:On the diy ones what do people use as the "mouth" ? Just s piece of pipe seems a bit poo poo/like it isn't gonna take much air in? If you're fancy you could take your fog light carriers out, measure them, and either print ducts with a strong material and use it as is or make it from a weak material and wrap it in carbon fiber or fiber glass. Alternatively make a foam version by hand and again carbon fiber wrap. All said and done you might save a little money.
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Apr 6, 2015 22:40
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NoneMoreNegative posted:Considering adding a little MP3 adapter box to my 2007 E90, one of the things the GROM audio people note is that the stereo needs to be 'coded for CDC' which I'm guessing is 'I have a CD Changer' that the MP3 unit then emulates? I went with Bavariansoundworks' Soundplicity III, and it plugs into the factory CD changer harness as well. My E46 did not have a CD changer but the harness was there. I had believed this was the case for all BMW's, but maybe not? The harness was wrapped up in a black velcro thing near where the changer would be installed. There's tons of pictures online. BSW also has good youtube videos that'll probably help you a bit even if you don't buy one of their products. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 6, 2015 22:43
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Well poo poo. Install the new water pump pulley, the new tensioner and the new belt, start it up, bad noise. Something rubbing. I remove the belt and look closer, the loving power steering pulley is at an angle and there's a decent amount of play in it when I wiggle it with my hand. I'm assuming the pump itself is bad. How hard of a job is this on an M62 (no steering rack, note)? My Bentley makes it seem fairly straightforward, but I've never replaced any power steering components in anything.
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Apr 8, 2015 02:59
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Super easy, I did it on my 540. The mounting bolts like to work loose, then you get down to two or one anchor points and everything goes floppy batshit. I found a salvage pump for $40 and replaced it in an afternoon. Blue loctite the mounting bolts.
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Apr 8, 2015 04:12
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Walnut blasting - do it at 60k you idiot or not that big of deal if the car runs fine? Edit: any Seattle goons have a BMW/German shop you trust/like?
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Apr 8, 2015 05:06
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Spiffness posted:Walnut blasting - do it at 60k you idiot or not that big of deal if the car runs fine? The advice I got from my local Indy BMW mechanic (highly recommended locally and has been around for thirty or forty years) recommended that we only do it in my 2008 535 (N54 engine) if there were any symptoms or reason to do it. The car runs great and he didn't recommend we do it. I don't think I am at 60k miles yet though, but getting close ish.
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Apr 8, 2015 05:23
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Y'all is lucky that it doesn't show symptoms the way the diesels do when they need blasted. I think I'm going to end up driving out to LA to have the intake hot tanked / head cleaned for $800. That's 1/3rd the local place and about 200 more than what the tools and parts required to be replaced would cost me.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Apr 8, 2015 |
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Apr 8, 2015 05:49
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 It has joined our clan. And it is fun as gently caress to drive.
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Apr 8, 2015 06:32
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Ultimate Mango posted:The advice I got from my local Indy BMW mechanic (highly recommended locally and has been around for thirty or forty years) recommended that we only do it in my 2008 535 (N54 engine) if there were any symptoms or reason to do it. The car runs great and he didn't recommend we do it. I don't think I am at 60k miles yet though, but getting close ish. I don't see any symptoms it needs it done, but it's like that WebMD poo poo where you read about it and get convinced you have issues. People post these terribly gunked up intake runners and it makes me worry. Local place quoted me about $350 for it, which isn't bad, but its not 'gently caress it, go for it' cheap. If I don't get much push back here saying it absolutely should be done based on mileage no matter what, I think I'll hold out for another 20k or so and re-evaluate. Mines a 07 335i at 63k, and it runs like a dream as it sits.
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Apr 8, 2015 06:42
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