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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyone who has done the hairspray chipping technique: Do you have to begin the chipping process immediately after applying your top paint layer, or can you wait? I've seen both "begin the process immediately after your paint layer is dry to the touch" and "whenever you get around to it..." I'm a very slow painter so I often go weeks and have many layers of acrylic paints/washes before I begin to add chips. It's easier to remove when you do it early, but its easy to remove too much. When you wait a long time it takes more pressure to remove so you risk taking it down to the very resin. For this reason I recommend varnishing over your undercoat before you apply chipping fluid.
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Apr 12, 2015 22:34
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Thanks for the replies, guys.
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Apr 13, 2015 00:51
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Is there a Citadel match for PP Coal Black, or is this something I'll have to mix up?
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Apr 13, 2015 00:52
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I'm still trying to expand my skills and one of them is working in different mediums, I was wondering does anyone have a link to a good guide regarding oil based paints, and/ or a good brand recommendation?
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Apr 13, 2015 01:10
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SERPUS posted:Is there a Citadel match for PP Coal Black, or is this something I'll have to mix up? Incubi Darkness is probably closest but I don't think its exactly right. You may have to mix it with black.
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Apr 13, 2015 01:14
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Hollismason posted:I'm still trying to expand my skills and one of them is working in different mediums, I was wondering does anyone have a link to a good guide regarding oil based paints, and/ or a good brand recommendation? I have a thing in the OP along with some tutorials, also on my lovely blog. I use classico oil paints for my washes, which are the lower end of mid level craft oils. Don't buy the cheapest oils, but definitely don't spend too much either. You're going to break them down with mineral spirit after all.
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Apr 13, 2015 01:56
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Cross-post: I (mostly) finished my Captain. This was my second attempt at blending instead of layering, and I learned a lot. Pretty happy with him, although I'm seeing a couple of details I need to go back and clean up.    
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Apr 13, 2015 02:42
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BULBASAUR posted:I have a thing in the OP along with some tutorials, also on my lovely blog. Yeah, I'd seen the stuff in regards to washes. The main reason I wanted to try oils was that from what I've read blending something I'm not good at is easier with them or at least different. Thanks.
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Apr 13, 2015 04:56
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So, I have grown frustrated with Liquitex Matte Medium for a couple of reasons. I started using it after Les Bursely recommended it (mixed with water and flow improver) for pretty much everything: thinning paint, airbrush thinner, washes, etc etc. However, Liquitex matte medium in particular has a few qualities that I am starting to hate. One, it's white until dry, which makes it hard to gauge colors as you mix them, especially for washes. Two, it clogs the tip of any bottle I put it in, every time, and three it settles out and forms a thick layer of white goo on the bottom that needs stirred heavily if you let it sit for like a day. I've been using Lahmian Medium from GW which is pretty much perfect but I would rather not pay GW prices for something I use all the time. Anyone have a recommendation for a painting medium other than straight water that is clear, doesn't clog squeeze bottles and doesnt need more than prefunctory shaking? Edit: matteness isn't super important, so long as it isn't super mega glossy, which is why I am not using thinned Future for all my painting needs.
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Apr 13, 2015 04:56
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Hollismason posted:Yeah, I'd seen the stuff in regards to washes. The main reason I wanted to try oils was that from what I've read blending something I'm not good at is easier with them or at least different. Blending oils is definitely easier. With acrylics, you're either not really blending and just making an illusion, or you're racing the clock. Oils stay wet for hours or days so you can actually blend the paints on the model without the fast super mario music playing. Get a couple oil paints and play around with them on a piece of primed plasticard or a spare model with a good surface, it really is intuitive and easy, it's just not great for tiny details and the drying time really is a bitch if it was the only paint you used. I did the face of the dwarf bust I posted a few pages back in oils and it was great, I got subtle blends I would not have been capable of with acrylics, and if I WAS capable of it they would have taken hours upon hours, with oils the face was done in one session and mistakes were easy to fix.
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Apr 13, 2015 05:01
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Airbrush medium. I use liquitex, but I think golden is very similar. I use airbrush medium for basically all my thinning that isn't water. For washes I add flow improver as well. Full discloser though, I just thin with water 95% of the time now. Gareth Gobulcoque fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Apr 13, 2015 |
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Apr 13, 2015 05:02
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Sulecrist posted:Cross-post: I (mostly) finished my Captain. This was my second attempt at blending instead of layering, and I learned a lot. Pretty happy with him, although I'm seeing a couple of details I need to go back and clean up. This shouldn't be getting drowned out by theorypainting posts. Looks dope man, gj on the blends.
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Apr 13, 2015 05:15
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First time building square base guys for Kings of War and thought movement trays would be a good idea, but I'm cheap so I decided to build my own. Super easy instructions here.
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Apr 13, 2015 13:14
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OK guys, I'm going to start airbrushing. Windex is what our colonial cousins use to clean their airbrushes. What would be the UK equivalent? Wilko's have the following: http://www.wilko.com/multi-purpose-cleaners/windolene-500ml/invt/0275524 and an own brand equivalent. What do the UK based posters use?
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Apr 13, 2015 15:43
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Thundercloud posted:What do the UK based posters use? Water for colo(u)r changes Airbrush cleaner/thinner for big cleaning jobs and end-of-session cleaning Cellulose thinner for serious 'what the gently caress, I can't shift this clog'
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Apr 13, 2015 16:04
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Windex is a streak free glass cleaner that has a little ammonia in it. I would try out whatever your local equivalent is.
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Apr 13, 2015 16:19
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There are some pretty nice shield transfers for 10mm lord of the rings miniatures I am working with. The Rohan shields however have a small hole in the middle that I need to cut out somehow. It's 1mm in diameter and I figure there has to be a better way than an exacto knife to a few hundred little stickers for shields. Any of you had to do something like this for transfers before? Is there a 1mm paper punch? Some needle gauge that is equivalent to 1mm? Something else? Note that the shield boss is sculpted onto the minis so I can't just leave the middle of the stickers whole here, I need to punch it out somehow. Transfer sheets are here: http://www.toshachminiatures.com/Fantasy10.htm
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Apr 13, 2015 20:50
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x-posting from x-wing thread: Did a Green Squadron inspired A-Wing:  Then added a little bit of engine glow to it and the other two stock A's I've got:  
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Apr 13, 2015 22:04
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nesbit37 posted:There are some pretty nice shield transfers for 10mm lord of the rings miniatures I am working with. The Rohan shields however have a small hole in the middle that I need to cut out somehow. It's 1mm in diameter and I figure there has to be a better way than an exacto knife to a few hundred little stickers for shields. Any of you had to do something like this for transfers before? Is there a 1mm paper punch? Some needle gauge that is equivalent to 1mm? Something else? Note that the shield boss is sculpted onto the minis so I can't just leave the middle of the stickers whole here, I need to punch it out somehow. You could probably just go to Hobby Lobby or Michaels and get a 1mm needle. It's not a super uncommon gauge. Why don't you just use a Ice Pick ?
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Apr 13, 2015 22:17
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nesbit37 posted:There are some pretty nice shield transfers for 10mm lord of the rings miniatures I am working with. The Rohan shields however have a small hole in the middle that I need to cut out somehow. It's 1mm in diameter and I figure there has to be a better way than an exacto knife to a few hundred little stickers for shields. Any of you had to do something like this for transfers before? Is there a 1mm paper punch? Some needle gauge that is equivalent to 1mm? Something else? Note that the shield boss is sculpted onto the minis so I can't just leave the middle of the stickers whole here, I need to punch it out somehow. Use a 1mm drill bit. If its a new bit its probably sharp enough to clear away the transfer and some of the paper underneath to make a hole; or flip it over and drill through the paper, then the film and into a piece of scrap card or something. When we drill through laminates at work and they need a clean crisp hole with no tearing or flash we place the board laminate side down on a waster board of MDF, clamp it down, and drill all the way through into the waster. Makes perfect holes. The same process would probably work fine for paper and film. ^^^ If he uses a punch of some sort it will just push the paper aside and leave a jagged hole with flashing around it.
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Apr 13, 2015 22:20
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I post too many words and not enough pictures so here's what I finished tonight. I'm a good painter and a bad photographer.   
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Apr 14, 2015 04:25
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That robot is wearing pants! I'm morally offended!
Sauer fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 05:12
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The "new" Citadel paints are still unfamiliar to me, has anyone else experienced that it takes an extraordinary amount of flipping, shaking or some other method to mix the metallic paints? Leadbelcher especially is an almost-black gunk unless I put a bunch of work into mixing, turning it, or stirring it with a boat oar.
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Apr 14, 2015 12:18
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Post 9-11 User posted:The "new" Citadel paints are still unfamiliar to me, has anyone else experienced that it takes an extraordinary amount of flipping, shaking or some other method to mix the metallic paints? Leadbelcher especially is an almost-black gunk unless I put a bunch of work into mixing, turning it, or stirring it with a boat oar. Put something in your paint pot as an agitator.
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Apr 14, 2015 12:38
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JoshTheStampede posted:I post too many words and not enough pictures so here's what I finished tonight. I'm a good painter and a bad photographer. Don't worry, I'm a bad painter and a bad photographer, and that never stopped me. 
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Apr 14, 2015 16:19
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Put something in your paint pot as an agitator. Yeah seconding this. I bought some glass beads at Michael's (I think 8mm?) to use as agitators for my GW and Vallejo paints. They were in the bead jewelry aisle, and came like 18 in a strand for a couple bucks.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:27
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Question to painters better than myself What kind of paints do you guys use? I have experimented with Reaper, Reaper HD, Citadel dry and technical, P3, Minitaire, and Vallejo Game Air. I haven't found one I really really like other than VGA but I now have over 200 paints and I can never seem to find one set of tools I really can stick with. It's an ever-expanding collection where I use whatever is newest. I don't like this. Do you guys have just massive paint collections or do you have a set you can stick with?
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Apr 14, 2015 16:36
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I personally stick with vallejo game/model paints and only as much as I need. There's probably only 40-50 colors in there. This becomes a problem when it comes to needing a new color for composition purposes.  e: I don't post here often and mostly to ask questions so I am not declaring myself a better painter than you. maybe I shouldn't have even answered the question if I don't know 
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Apr 14, 2015 16:40
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Sauer posted:Use a 1mm drill bit. If its a new bit its probably sharp enough to clear away the transfer and some of the paper underneath to make a hole; or flip it over and drill through the paper, then the film and into a piece of scrap card or something. When we drill through laminates at work and they need a clean crisp hole with no tearing or flash we place the board laminate side down on a waster board of MDF, clamp it down, and drill all the way through into the waster. Makes perfect holes. The same process would probably work fine for paper and film. Thanks, I didn't think of using a drill bit. Will try it out. I have some concerns that it will tear outside of the hole it is cutting but we'll see. If its sharp enough it should be ok. Hollismason posted:You could probably just go to Hobby Lobby or Michaels and get a 1mm needle. It's not a super uncommon gauge. I am worried about a needle or something similar that just punches through rather than cutting material away is going to leave an ugly blob of paper on the boss of the shields they are applied to. It could work, but hopping for a cutting option available besides something that just punctures the transfer.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:45
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signalnoise posted:Question to painters better than myself I pretty much just use whatever I can get my hands on. No, really. The majority of my paints I didn't even buy, I either got as a gift or part of a trade. They range from GW to Vallejo to Reaper to P3 to Coat d'Arms to Army Painter to fuckin' cheap-rear end craft paint I get for a buck. Similarly, I haven't bought brushes in years, as those too I got for free. I grab whatever I can for as cheap as possible, and I've got paints dating back a decade because I hoard all that poo poo. And if I don't have a color I need? I mix one up and slap it in an empty bottle for later. That said, I'm partial to P3 and Reaper. P3 flows well and can be watered down more than most other brands, and Reaper has that super handy triad system and a pretty wide range of colors to pick from.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:45
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P3 is Coat d'Arms, so yeah, it thins well. I miss Ikore paints, those were some good poo poo.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:49
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JoshTheStampede posted:I post too many words and not enough pictures so here's what I finished tonight. I'm a good painter and a bad photographer. What's this guy from? I love him. The muted grey goes really well with the more vibrant blue and yellow, the lenses are gorgeous, and he just looks so drat grumpy.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:50
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Quick question about Pledge and matte sprays. If I use a matte spray on a miniature, can I use some floor polish and a brush to make specific parts of the miniature glossy while leaving the rest matte?
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Apr 14, 2015 16:50
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SRM posted:What's this guy from? I love him. The muted grey goes really well with the more vibrant blue and yellow, the lenses are gorgeous, and he just looks so drat grumpy. Relic Knights. He's a Librarian, a guardian construct for the Doctrine, the space-Harry-Potter-anime-magical-school faction.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:52
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An Angry Bug posted:Quick question about Pledge and matte sprays. If I use a matte spray on a miniature, can I use some floor polish and a brush to make specific parts of the miniature glossy while leaving the rest matte? Yes
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Apr 14, 2015 16:54
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signalnoise posted:Question to painters better than myself I also have around 200 paints. I have a full set of Minitaire, and a lot of Reaper and P3, a fair handful of Vallejo Model Color and Vallejo Game Color, the vallejo Air Metallics, and the GW shades and glazes. I just take what I like from every line.
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Apr 14, 2015 17:00
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JoshTheStampede posted:the space-Harry-Potter-anime-magical-school faction. ....ok so I wasn't interested in Relic Knights before now, but some local guys bought into the KS, now I'm interested..
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Apr 14, 2015 17:00
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signalnoise posted:Question to painters better than myself I use a little bit of everything. I think I have paints from pretty much every manufacturer out there. You get a feel for whats better in certain areas, and then you just generally prefer some manufacturers for some tasks. I will always use GW paints for doing skin tones for example, as I know how they mix up and what tones you can add in without it looking weird. Similarly, I'll probably always use VMA metallics.
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Apr 14, 2015 17:53
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OK so what are the preferred best use paints? Maybe some paint picking suggestions could go in the OP by purpose?
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Apr 14, 2015 18:04
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Put something in your paint pot as an agitator. I don't work in a lab, though. I sometimes needed to use the back end of a paint brush handle to stir a paint pot and that was only if the paint was very old. I've been sitting at a painting table for a few hours and paint that was completely mixed became unusable again since earlier in the session.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:06
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