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Jastiger posted:It actually is if you are willing to accept lower than what their shop offers. More than likely that WON'T be the case. Why not call up the claims guy over at GEICO and ask what their process is and how firm they are on their guy. If they balk mention that it would be cheaper to go to YOUR guy, or you'd be willing to accept X dollars and be done with it. That IS risky though because its no guarantee your car is fixed if you put money towards it, but you got that credit card debt paid off. But if you will accept a lower pay out, it's always an option. I wouldn't ask Gieco how firm they are, but rather your states insurance website FAQ's. It's very clearly not the carriers choice in Oregon, and while they try to push you to their shop or their preferred shop, you have legal rights.
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Apr 20, 2015 06:12
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Thanks, I'll take a look and see what Colorado's laws are like. I'm probably going to have to push back my appointment anyway, so that will buy me some time to get this straightened out.
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Apr 20, 2015 06:29
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I'm 99% sure that an insurance company can't force you to use any given vendor for your repairs. They can offer incentives, like being able to check the status of the work, or use verbiage like "we can't guarantee the repair work of vendors other than our selected vendors". But they can't actually compel you to use the vendor they selected. Especially for a liability pay out; a first party collision claim they have a bit more control over.
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Apr 20, 2015 14:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:So what's the wording I should use when saying I want to hold off on signing until I get a second opinion on the work done? I think that's what you're saying at least. If you have your own full coverage you can just go through your own company too...they will subrogate it out if you don't trust GEICO then let your insurance company do the work for you. Doesn't count as a claim against you and puts your insurance to work for you. NeurosisHead posted:I'm 99% sure that an insurance company can't force you to use any given vendor for your repairs. They can offer incentives, like being able to check the status of the work, or use verbiage like "we can't guarantee the repair work of vendors other than our selected vendors". But they can't actually compel you to use the vendor they selected. Especially for a liability pay out; a first party collision claim they have a bit more control over. Yea I don't know all states, but the ones I operate in give you THREE options when it comes to an auto claim: 1. Take the car into a shop of their choosing. 2. Take the car into a shop of your choosing. 3. Have an adjuster inspect the vehicle at your home. Each have their own benefits. As an agent I can say that I ALWAYS take my car where I want regardless of what any insurance company tells me.
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Apr 20, 2015 14:53
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I only gave liability on this car. When you say full coverage, you mean comprehensive liability and collision, right?
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Apr 20, 2015 17:18
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I only gave liability on this car. When you say full coverage, you mean comprehensive liability and collision, right? Yes he does. That means that your company likely won't be able to file anything on YOUR car. It seems to me that you aren't going to go that "check-to-you" route. I would suggest going to a repair shop YOU feel comfortable with and getting an estimate and having it done there. I think that'd give you a lot more peace of mind.
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Apr 20, 2015 17:22
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I only gave liability on this car. When you say full coverage, you mean comprehensive liability and collision, right? Full coverage = liability and physical damage (i.e. comp/collision) coverage.
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Apr 20, 2015 17:22
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Jastiger posted:Yes he does. That means that your company likely won't be able to file anything on YOUR car. Yeah, I'm not sure if I'm going with the check route yet. Right now I'm just going to push back the assessment and weigh my options. I don't think there is even enough bend to cause a problem with working on stuff in the front of the engine bay. I know this probably won't be that difficult, but it is so stressful.
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Apr 21, 2015 22:10
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, I'm not sure if I'm going with the check route yet. Right now I'm just going to push back the assessment and weigh my options. I don't think there is even enough bend to cause a problem with working on stuff in the front of the engine bay. You may want to get AI opinions. Your level of handiness can make a big difference in price, too, if you can swap panels or not. I picked up a fender for my gf's Audi and swapped it in 2hr, $130 vs $600! Paint matched, very much a win-win for the car and her wallet!
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Apr 21, 2015 22:48
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I don't work for Geico but I have this conversation about 10 times a day. An insurance company cannot force you into any shop. They may offer or recommend. In CA, I don't think you can even offer til the customer says they do not have a shop in mind. However, they have the right to approve any repairs. That usually comes in one of four flavors: 1. Let their network shop inspect and fix it. 2. Let their field appraiser schedule an inspection in the field with you. 3. Go to a "drive-in" which is generally a shop the field appraiser may be stationed certain days of the week. 4. You get your own estimate and pics and submit that to someone at Geico to review. They are not going to negotiate with you on an estimate. They may negotiate with a shop while the repairs are ongoing if there are additional costs incurred during repair or some delay but they aren't going to negotiate an initial estimate with you. The initial estimate is not a final repair cost. That's why its an estimate. The insurance company owes to get the vehicle back to its pre-accident condition. That number cannot be determined by a visual inspection. Someone mentioned having the shop do a tear down first to get a better estimate. Unless that shop knows they will be doing the repairs also, I don't recommend it. Shops don't like it because they don't paid for doing a tear down. Plus now they have to put it back together only for you to get the check and go somewhere else. The insurance company is also highly unlikely to provide you with a rental for this tear down/inspect/put back/drive away process. If you were my brother, I would tell you to use their network shop IF they(Geico) offer a lifetime guarantee on the workmanship. The process is smoother because there is one less set of eyes that have to approve something. And if there is a problem caused by the shop, Geico will likely be more willing to work with you on correcting that or smoothing it over. If its a workmanship issue, they have to get that corrected. The biggest shop issue I run into daily is when someone uses their own shop that turns out to be full of lazy assholes. Now if there are additional supplements, someone has to okay it before the shop can move forward. More delays. Then the shop completes repairs and refuses to give you your vehicle until they have a check in hand. Or a month goes by and your car shits the bed because the shop didn't fix something. The insurance company has zero authority, incentive, or legal footing to do anything about it if its your shop.
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Apr 24, 2015 06:27
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Kung Fu Jesus posted:I don't work for Geico but I have this conversation about 10 times a day. This is a good post. Thanks for the insight on how it works!
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Apr 24, 2015 17:06
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I'm trying to decide what level of auto insurance to get. I'm pretty happy with liability of 100k/300k/100k, uninsured of 100k/200k, and medical of 5k. Whats stumping me is comprehensive and collision. My car is only worth 5k on KBB, 8 years old and has 89k miles on it, and in good enough shape for at least another 3-5 years. I don't care much about aesthetic only damage. I did just move to Oklahoma where flood, hail, and tornadoes are real possibilities. I'm leaning slightly to getting the highest deductible of both for the event the car gets totaled, but Ive heard that in general the high deductible plans are bad. Is my car worth getting collision for? What about comp? Is there a reason I'm missing that high deductible is bad?
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May 15, 2015 14:02
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Xenoborg posted:I'm trying to decide what level of auto insurance to get. I'm pretty happy with liability of 100k/300k/100k, uninsured of 100k/200k, and medical of 5k. Whats stumping me is comprehensive and collision. My car is only worth 5k on KBB, 8 years old and has 89k miles on it, and in good enough shape for at least another 3-5 years. I don't care much about aesthetic only damage. I did just move to Oklahoma where flood, hail, and tornadoes are real possibilities. I'm leaning slightly to getting the highest deductible of both for the event the car gets totaled, but Ive heard that in general the high deductible plans are bad. Is my car worth getting collision for? What about comp? Is there a reason I'm missing that high deductible is bad? That said, price both! I have low deductibles ($250/250) because it's barely any more expensive than $1k/1k. This definitely wasn't the case when both the cars and I were younger.
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May 15, 2015 14:52
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Xenoborg posted:I'm trying to decide what level of auto insurance to get. I'm pretty happy with liability of 100k/300k/100k, uninsured of 100k/200k, and medical of 5k. Whats stumping me is comprehensive and collision. My car is only worth 5k on KBB, 8 years old and has 89k miles on it, and in good enough shape for at least another 3-5 years. I don't care much about aesthetic only damage. I did just move to Oklahoma where flood, hail, and tornadoes are real possibilities. I'm leaning slightly to getting the highest deductible of both for the event the car gets totaled, but Ive heard that in general the high deductible plans are bad. Is my car worth getting collision for? What about comp? Is there a reason I'm missing that high deductible is bad? You know you can have two different deductibles? Comprehensive is CHEAP because it is largely weather related and not your fault. Keep a low Comprehensive deductible ($250) and go to a higher Collision deductible ($1000). Honestly call your agent and have them show you the pricing differences. Sometimes the higher deductible doesn't save enough to justify the change. I just quoted a guy that wanted to go from $250 up to $1000 for Comp and Collision, but with that change it would have saved him $78/yr. where $69 was Collision and $9 was Comp. He ended up keeping them low. The only time going from $250 up to $1000 or more makes sense is if you are a terrible driver, have lots of accidents, the primary driver is a young driver, or the vehicle you are driving is the Bat Mobile.
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May 15, 2015 19:01
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So my current auto insurance is with MetLife through my work. It will be two years that I've been with them in July. For a year my premium is right at $1400. I loving hate every interaction I've had with MetLife on the agent side, but when I had a comprehensive claim after hitting a deer, they were angels on the claim side. But I figured I am overpaying, and for the same coverage levels, quotes for six months are from around $400ish (Geico and Progressive) to $600ish (Nationwide and Amica) for six months. I still haven't received new quotes from the other two I can get through my employer, Travelers and Liberty Mutual. So I should switch right? What's the chance I'd regret going with the cheapest option? Is there a cheat seat of best reputation to worst reputation that I can sit next to a list of quotes to try to find a sweet value spot?
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May 19, 2015 11:38
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Sub Rosa posted:So my current auto insurance is with MetLife through my work. It will be two years that I've been with them in July. For a year my premium is right at $1400. I loving hate every interaction I've had with MetLife on the agent side, but when I had a comprehensive claim after hitting a deer, they were angels on the claim side. Well, you are asking in a thread full of insurance agents, so we are all going to tell you to pick a company with an agent. Progressive and Geico are on my poo poo list because there is no relationship there and no personal contact. As a representative for Travelers and Liberty Mutual I would suggest getting quotes from them. They are both competitive national companies with a great rating both on financials and claims. I don't really know anything about Amica, so I will defer to someone who does. Nationwide is a national company and one of the big 3 insurance carriers, so as long as you like the agent/staff for them they shouldn't be a bad pick. Always explore all your options, ask questions, and spend some time getting to know your agent/representative...you'd be surprised how you will pay a little more to have someone you like and trust managing your insurance. There is nothing more I hate in this world than giving my money to someone I dislike.
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May 19, 2015 13:43
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Regarding "Uninsured & Underinsured Motorist" coverage. Is there any point to it when I already have kick rear end medical insurance with no deductible? If its relevant: State is OK, no fault state, have both comp and coll coverage as well.
Xenoborg fucked around with this message at 21:56 on May 20, 2015 |
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May 20, 2015 21:47
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Xenoborg posted:Regarding "Uninsured & Underinsured Motorist" coverage. Is there any point to it when I already have kick rear end medical insurance with no deductible? If its relevant: State is OK, no fault state, have both comp and coll coverage as well. Generally speaking, if you're a homeowner, UIM is probably worth it, especially given how inexpensive it usually is.
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May 20, 2015 22:08
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Thanatosian posted:You can get damages out of UIM coverage (lost wages, pain & suffering, loss of consortium, etc.), it can cover a rental car, it can cover other people riding in the car with you, it will pay all of your medical expenses up to the limit after the deductible, whereas with your medical insurance you're stuck with copays and anything they don't cover (i.e. there are no "in-network" or "out-of-network" doctors with UIM, and there's no "sorry, we don't cover emergency splenectomies performed by an Asian doctor on a Tuesday during a waxing gibbous moon"). Not to mention, WHY WOULD YOU COVER THE OTHER GUY FOR MORE THAN YOU COVER YOURSELF?! Like seriously...who do you value more them or you?
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May 21, 2015 13:48
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The damages part makes it worth considering based on the costs. For my own medical, my out of pocket maximum on my health insurance is $1,500, and I already have more medical coverage than that, so I don't see the point of more coverage for that.
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May 21, 2015 14:15
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Xenoborg posted:The damages part makes it worth considering based on the costs. For my own medical, my out of pocket maximum on my health insurance is $1,500, and I already have more medical coverage than that, so I don't see the point of more coverage for that. Well for starters, with UM/UIM you wouldn't even have to worry about being on the hook for $1500.
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May 21, 2015 14:18
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I'm already getting more "Medical Payments" than my health insurance's OOP max, so I'm not on the hook for anything anyway. Rental cars are already covered in a separate item. Disability is already covered by my medical insurance. UM looks like it will be an extra 240-400 a year just to cover things that are already covered elsewhere.
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May 21, 2015 15:15
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Xenoborg posted:I'm already getting more "Medical Payments" than my health insurance's OOP max, so I'm not on the hook for anything anyway. Rental cars are already covered in a separate item. Disability is already covered by my medical insurance. UM looks like it will be an extra 240-400 a year just to cover things that are already covered elsewhere.
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May 21, 2015 15:52
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Xenoborg posted:I'm already getting more "Medical Payments" than my health insurance's OOP max, so I'm not on the hook for anything anyway. Rental cars are already covered in a separate item. Disability is already covered by my medical insurance. UM looks like it will be an extra 240-400 a year just to cover things that are already covered elsewhere. So, what about other people in your car? Do THEY have excellent health insurance? If they are in your car and someone without insurance or with poor insurance hits you what will they do? If a passenger in your car gets maimed, disabled or killed regardless of who is at fault they are going to drag you into the law suits. Lawyers are going to come at you and ask "Why didn't you have this coverage on your policy?" Now you are paying for lawyers to defend yourself when that insurance would mean the company would have a lawyer for that reason. These coverages exist for good reasons...if you came to us and asked if you should have Full Glass coverage it is one thing, but to ask about a form of liability coverage whether it is for you or a passenger should be a no brainer. Do you want to deal with the hassle that could arise from an accident with a deadbeat who doesn't have insurance or has lovely insurance? Edit: Also want to add that if you are involved in a car accident your primary health insurance is going to want you to do a poo poo ton of paperwork and jump through a ton of hoops and still bill you until they can 100% PROVE there is zero coverage from that other auto insurance carrier AND your own insurance carrier. They don't want to be on the hook for money if they don't have to, so you better believe they are going to fight those charges for as long as possible. OssiansFolly fucked around with this message at 16:33 on May 21, 2015 |
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May 21, 2015 16:09
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Turns out I got mixed up by all the different 1 month/6 month/12 month quotes. 50/100 UM is $24 every 6 months not every 1 month. Ill probably just go ahead and get it so I don't have to worry about it.
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May 21, 2015 16:38
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Can anybody tell me about diminished value claims? Are they usually worth pursuing? Is it something I can do on my own or would I need to hire somebody? I've read a little bit about them which made it seem like a pain involving paying for an estimate up front and potentially not getting anything. I'm in Missouri in case it matters. My car - a 2006 Acura RSX - was recently hit by another driver. She was at-fault, ticketed, and her insurance company has paid for the repairs which involved replacing the passenger side door shell, rear quarter panel, tail light, seat belt, and pillar reinforcement and then a bunch of painting/blending. I know the door shell is a used part and it doesn't fit quite right -- there's a small gap between the shell and the interior plastic and the door doesn't close as easily as it used to. The total for the repairs and rental car was at least half the car's private sale value. As far as I know, it's the first accident the car has been in. I bought it after the first driver's 3-year lease ended. How would I go about making a diminished value claim if it's even worth attempting?
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May 21, 2015 20:10
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Soup in a Bag posted:Can anybody tell me about diminished value claims? Are they usually worth pursuing? Is it something I can do on my own or would I need to hire somebody? I've read a little bit about them which made it seem like a pain involving paying for an estimate up front and potentially not getting anything.
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May 21, 2015 20:18
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Open enrollment at my office. HR needs a decision from me by tomorrow, after giving us our options today. Feeling a little overwhelmed! I currently get my insurance through work, and my wife gets hers through the CA exchange (her job does not offer any, it has been prohibitively expensive to upgrade my coverage to family). Right now I pay about ~$100/mo from my paycheck for an Anthem HMO (Gold Select 34/20%/6600). My wife pays about ~$237/mo for her Anthem Silver HMO of slightly worse quality. So we pay about ~$337/mo right now. HR presented me with 4 options - my current HMO and 3 PPOs (Gold 500/20%/4500, Gold 1000/20%/4000, Silver 1500/20%/6250). Going to any of the PPOs would bump my payments up to about ~$140/mo, and they are unattractive to me for other reasons. I asked if these were all of the options, because I don't really know how it all works between the company and our insurance. I also asked if I could see the prices for adding my wife and if she found any additional options (I wanted to know if we had any HDHP/HSA options) please send them my way. She found a PPO/HSA for me/wife, but it wasn't an option given to just me initially. Is that weird? Is it normal for the options to be so limited? If I want to add my wife to my Anthem HMO through work, it bumps our monthly payments up to ~$500 from my paycheck. So roughly a ~$163/mo increase from our current situation. If we go with the PPO HSA, it would be ~$414, which is only ~$77 more than we are currently paying but I'm unsure if it is worth it. There are no employer contributions whatsoever - I have to set everything up myself. We are generally healthy, only real caveats are my wife needs some dental work and we want to have a kid in the next ~5 years. HSA question - does the ~$414 premium get "invested" into the HSA fund? Or is that totally gone, and I have to fill up the HSA on top of that every month? Any thoughts/advice appreciated. e- We go to the Dr. on average maybe 1-2x a year. Once for a check up and maybe once if we're really sick or get a random UTI, etc. khysanth fucked around with this message at 02:33 on May 22, 2015 |
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May 22, 2015 02:30
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khysanth posted:Open enrollment at my office. HR needs a decision from me by tomorrow, after giving us our options today. Feeling a little overwhelmed! Holy numbers Batman! You have to ask the details of the HSA. Most don't put anything in for you. I don't personally like HSAs for a lot of people because it adds another layer of responsibility. Are you sure your employer isn't just putting you through the ACA marketplace? Seems like you have a lot of options for a group plan if you ask me. Also, keep in mind that if the ANNUAL amount of insurance is more than 10% of your ANNUAL insurance (per individual) you may qualify to go to the ACA and get assistance. If it were me or my family I would go with the Anthem HMO. Wellness and preventative check ups aren't considered visits and are covered under all plans per the ACA, so don't avoid your annual check ups and the wife's trips to gyne. 1 day to figure all this out seems like BS...you need to be able to make an educated decision which also involves checking to see if either of you qualify for ACA and if it makes more sense to use it instead of what is provided.
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May 22, 2015 13:53
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Soup in a Bag posted:Can anybody tell me about diminished value claims? Are they usually worth pursuing? Is it something I can do on my own or would I need to hire somebody? I've read a little bit about them which made it seem like a pain involving paying for an estimate up front and potentially not getting anything.
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May 22, 2015 22:23
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I'll try to succinctly sum up my car insurance question as best I can. Spring 2012: Was idiot, got arrested for DUI. Lost license, revoked for one year. My bf's car had just died, so that was some decent timing; sold my Cavalier to him, since I obviously didn't need her for at least a year. Spring 2013: Got license back. In order to get license, I need FR-44 insurance (twice state minimum). Get added to bf's policy and drive my Cav again, yay! Summer 2013: My mom's dying of cancer, gives me her Kia. I go off bf's insurance, insure the Kia in my name; bf keeps the old Cavalier still in his name. Now: I'm unemployed, and the Kia's dead. No point in paying Progressive $80 a month for a hunk of rusting metal in my driveway, especially since I'm unemployed. So I want to take off the plates, sell her, then get a joint policy with my bf and my old Cavalier. I don't understand FR-44 AT ALL because I are dumb when it comes to insurance, and the DMV website is not very helpful. The links to info about FR-44 come up under the "commercial" section, even though this is a personal use car...? 1. If I'm a driver on the policy, I assume, we still need the "twice state minimum". 2. That said, do I need to be the primary policy member on the Cav, and bf is an added driver, for DMV "certified insurance" purposes? I'm terrified of getting my license suspended for not having FR-44 insurance, that's still part of the deal of my keeping my license, as far as I can tell. 3. If #2 is NOT the case, is there any difference in rate quotes if bf is the primary, and I'm the add-on, even if we're still doing 50/100/40 coverage? Are two people being covered on the same car equal in the eyes of insurer and the law? I'm sorry if these are really stupid questions, or more properly belong in the legal megathread. This is in Virginia, fwiw.
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May 28, 2015 00:16
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JacquelineDempsey posted:I'll try to succinctly sum up my car insurance question as best I can. 1. Yes. 2. No - as long as you're a listed driver you can get an FR44. 3. Not really. Maybe off his credit rating for him being primary vs. you, but the cars and drivers being equal otherwise, your rate will largely be the same.
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May 28, 2015 02:35
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Homeowner's insurance question. I live in a condo community of about 200 attached townhouses. We pay an HOA fee each month that includes insurance coverage of up to $1,000,000 per unit (far more than any one unit is worth). Last night, somebody's unit completely burned to the ground and caused smoke/water damage to the neighboring 7 units. If it is determined that the owner committed arson, will we (the community) be stuck with the repair bill for his + the neighboring 7 units?
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Jun 5, 2015 18:11
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:Homeowner's insurance question. OOOOOOO this is a fun one! Okay so this will be split between many parts and I will try to keep it as simple as possible. Scenario 1 is if the unit owner is found to be 100% accidentally involved for this. He is not directly negligent or intentional in burning down his unit. In this scenario you will have his insurance covering his property, and the other 7 units covering their property. Common property that you are not responsible for (depends on your HOA but usually on condos it is they are responsible for drywall out) will be covered by the HOA policy. Everyone is aware that it wasn't their fault, but the other 7 unit owners' insurance will likely try to subrogate for some of the pay outs (won't likely happen because no negligence or intent to do damage). Scenario 2 is a lot more fun. In this scenario the unit owner intentionally started the fire or is intentionally negligent. With this scenario the above paragraph will likely play out, BUT at the end of things when the insurance companies go to subrogate they will be subrogating against his LIABILITY coverage on the policy. Since he is directly responsible for the damages his insurance company will likely pay it out of his liability coverages (after a stupid long court battle that none of you will really be a party to). Either way, ANYONE WITH DAMAGE NEEDS TO CALL THEIR INSURANCE COMPANY AND START A CLAIM NOW. They also should file with that unit owners insurance because if this does get subrogated they are going to pay out on a first come first serve basis.
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Jun 5, 2015 18:24
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Was probated but I think I got everyone's responses that I could. Let me know if I missed any and you're still waiting to hear back about insurance questions. I will say after having been in my current insurance role for a bit now, I'm becoming super jaded and I'm really glad that pretty much all of the goons I've seen on here are Doing The Right Thing.
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Jun 7, 2015 18:56
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I'm voluntarily leaving my current job for a new job. For some reason, my health insurance at my new job isn't effective until July 1st. The health insurance with my current job expires when I leave. My last day is June 12th. This leaves a gap in coverage that worries me. If I were to get hit by a car or suffer some other horrible, expensive medical calamity after this Friday, how screwed am I? I know about COBRA, but can I even get that in such a small increment? And by the time I get the enrollment forms in the mail and get everything squared away, it could very well be close to the end of June anyway. edit: just called my HR hotline, first time I called they said yes, your benefits extend until the end of the month. I was surprised and suspicious. I called back and clarified that I am leaving voluntarily, not being laid off or fired, and this mean that my benefits expire midnight the 12th 
KERNOD WEL fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Jun 9, 2015 |
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Jun 9, 2015 21:00
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KERNOD WEL posted:I'm voluntarily leaving my current job for a new job. For some reason, my health insurance at my new job isn't effective until July 1st. The health insurance with my current job expires when I leave. My last day is June 12th. This leaves a gap in coverage that worries me. That sounds kind of weird, really. They cut it off THAT DAY? They don't' have you just pay it out monthly or have it covered in your final pay check for the last two weeks or whatever? I'd double check on that first. With COBRA technically you can let it expire, and coast until July 1...if you end up getting hurt, BAM sign up for COBRA and get that month lapse covered. I would probably go that route so you can save yourself the super high COBRA premium if you don't need it. Your new job shouldn't have insurance contingent upon no lapses in coverage, so I wouldn't think that'd be a problem.
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Jun 9, 2015 21:10
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Jastiger posted:That sounds kind of weird, really. They cut it off THAT DAY? They don't' have you just pay it out monthly or have it covered in your final pay check for the last two weeks or whatever? I'd double check on that first. I second this. Wait and get Cobra if and ONLY IF you ABSOLUTELY need coverage prior to July 1st.
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Jun 10, 2015 03:07
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Jastiger posted:That sounds kind of weird, really. They cut it off THAT DAY? They don't' have you just pay it out monthly or have it covered in your final pay check for the last two weeks or whatever? I'd double check on that first. I also expect that your coverage continues until 6/30 - I've never once had insurance that term'd mid month. I'd re-review your documents.
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Jun 10, 2015 03:24
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SiGmA_X posted:Thirding. You have 60 days (verify this! It was the case in 2012/13) to sign up for retroactive coverage with COBRA. You will be fine. Yea after reading that statement I went back and reread the few policies my company offers and ALL of them say the insurance runs until the end of the month. Don't contact HR (odds are they aren't insurance licensed unless you work in an insurance agency)...call the insurance company direct or the agent that represents the company.
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Jun 10, 2015 15:39
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