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jodai posted:How has the Relic Knights stuff been going? I chose the actual knight faction, Shattered Swords, so most of my guys are in armor and helmets but I've heard the detail on the faces is really shallow. RK is hit or miss. The stuff that was already a sculpt before the game/KS is pretty terrible, out of scale, no detail, etc. Newer stuff is very nice though. Facial detail is very smooth and shallow but with the anime style that looks more intentional than the older stuff being a sculpting limitation.
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Apr 22, 2015 13:28
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She's got Combat Highheels and Armortits but I can't even complain, that's a pretty badass model. Your color choices are stunning, that blue-grey-turquoise, dang. The non-metallic metal all over, especially on the sword.
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Apr 22, 2015 13:38
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Post 9-11 User posted:She's got Combat Highheels and Armortits but I can't even complain, that's a pretty badass model. Thanks! This was my first real attempt at NMM (as opposed to oh gently caress there's only one buckle and I'm not getting out the metallics NMM) and I'm reasonably happy with it. The color scheme is mostly the studio scheme but a little greener and lighter and translated to Minitaire.
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Apr 22, 2015 13:43
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Miles O'Brian posted:Does anyone have pics of those kickin' rad bone and turquoise Dark Eldar that some goon painted a while back? They had pink accents and were gorgeous, particularly the Scourges. You want to find RichyP's posts in the old miniature thread. He painted them.
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Apr 22, 2015 14:05
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About the skewer sticks for banner poles - I found a bag of 50 at Target for $1, so absolutely can't beat the price. They are a bit big for 28mm but nothing glaring. A great option for cheap-o's like myself.
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Apr 22, 2015 16:03
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serious gaylord posted:You want to find RichyP's posts in the old miniature thread. He painted them. Holy poo poo it was 5 years ago. 
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Apr 22, 2015 16:25
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So after multiple failures attempting to drill out 20mm size holes in various wooden boards to act as unit trays, I dusted off an old cork sheet and just started cutting out penny-sized holes with an exacto knife. Works surprisingly well but I worry about the long term durability of cork as units get placed in and out of the sockets over time. Any suggestions for what I might be able to do to "seal" the cork or reduce the wear on the sockets?
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Apr 22, 2015 16:43
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Miles O'Brian posted:Holy poo poo it was 5 years ago. He might have painted two more since then haha.
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Apr 22, 2015 16:56
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Wear a mask when you airbrush. A real one, with filters. If you wan't a cheap gravity dual action brush go get a Veda on eBay. Do you need a 3M mask if you airbrush outside? I grabbed one of those flimsy paper ones and airbrush outside and haven't noticed anything.
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Apr 22, 2015 18:03
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Unzip and Attack posted:So after multiple failures attempting to drill out 20mm size holes in various wooden boards to act as unit trays, I dusted off an old cork sheet and just started cutting out penny-sized holes with an exacto knife. Works surprisingly well but I worry about the long term durability of cork as units get placed in and out of the sockets over time. Any suggestions for what I might be able to do to "seal" the cork or reduce the wear on the sockets? I'd recommend maybe some thinned down matte medium. For banner poles and the like, I'd say definitely check out steel music wire. Much cheaper than brass rod, although you'd have to smooth out the edges. EDIT: Anyone have recommendations on how to increase the displaced air volume of my spray booth? Signal fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Apr 22, 2015 |
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Apr 22, 2015 18:23
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Increasing the suck? Bathroom fan. As long as you're not spraying flammable paints, you'll be good. If you do flammables though, you'll need a fan with an enclosed motor so you don't get a stray spark and blow up.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:28
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So I'm really new to this and new to airbrushing. I've been painting some warmachine stuff and wanted to try airbrushing gradients rather than the usual base/wash/highlight. I used it some on painting a menoth warjack...which is generally one prominate color (white) and not to bad, however, I'm struggling on finding a way to use an AB on the smaller figures that are largely two tone. For example:  This choir member I painted exclusively by hand then washing and highlighting. What would be the best way to AB these? Lay down the base whites and do my highlighting on white then hand paint the maroon? I'm not sure it's worth the time to try to mask off the white to spray maroon and highlight. Suggestions? As I said I'm a complete newbie at this and it's one of my first figs so be kind. Shachi fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Apr 22, 2015 |
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Apr 22, 2015 21:25
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I would probably only airbrush one color and do brushwork with the other. Check out BuyPainted's Youtube channel as it features lots of airbrushing multiple colors.
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Apr 22, 2015 21:51
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berzerkmonkey posted:Increasing the suck? Bathroom fan. As long as you're not spraying flammable paints, you'll be good. If you do flammables though, you'll need a fan with an enclosed motor so you don't get a stray spark and blow up. Petition to change the thread title to: Miniatures Painting - Increase the suck
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Apr 22, 2015 21:54
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I would probably only airbrush one color and do brushwork with the other. Check out BuyPainted's Youtube channel as it features lots of airbrushing multiple colors. Will do. What do you think? Prioritize the white since it would be hard to paint over the burgundy without a shitton of layers? I've watched a lot of what ScnusserfaceMinis has done with his stuff but mainly airbrushes and masks. I feel like it might not be worth the effort to do all that masking and still end up with overspray on such a small fig. Also at my current ability airbrushing takes longer anyways.
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Apr 22, 2015 22:01
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Shachi posted:So I'm really new to this and new to airbrushing. I've been painting some warmachine stuff and wanted to try airbrushing gradients rather than the usual base/wash/highlight. zenithal it, then glaze as appropriate for instant shading. Then do some highlighting where needed, then throw any washes on it where you care about deep shadowy recesses.
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Apr 22, 2015 22:02
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Shachi posted:Will do. What do you think? Prioritize the white since it would be hard to paint over the burgundy without a shitton of layers? I've watched a lot of what ScnusserfaceMinis has done with his stuff but mainly airbrushes and masks. I feel like it might not be worth the effort to do all that masking and still end up with overspray on such a small fig. Also at my current ability airbrushing takes longer anyways. I would probably do the white on both the white and purple sections, and use the shading as a base for the purple.
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Apr 22, 2015 22:06
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w00tmonger posted:zenithal it, then glaze as appropriate for instant shading. Then do some highlighting where needed, then throw any washes on it where you care about deep shadowy recesses. This right here. If you want to get fancy hit it with another highlight after the washes.
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Apr 22, 2015 22:07
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What do I use to cut rods for pinning? Using the metal cutter I have (it cut through a warmachine metal nub like paper, which ruled) it takes tons of force to cut through and the rod I cut off tends to fly across the room when it snaps off.
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Apr 23, 2015 04:33
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Wire cutters should work. Strong rods will ruin your side cutters.
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Apr 23, 2015 04:36
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I just have my "lovely" pair of flush cutters that I use for clipping base tabs and metal stuff, so I don't care if they get banged up (I have a good set for plastics and stuff I care about the surface of). Hold onto both sides of the object you're cutting and you won't get dangerous projectiles. If you're pinning with steel, invest in a pair of decent metal shears, but otherwise I wouldn't worry too much.
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Apr 23, 2015 04:38
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Working through the Masterbox marines slowly but surely. This guy looked a lot more fearsome on the box. Without the facial expression, he looks like he's at the pole vault instead of a war.
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Apr 23, 2015 04:55
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I'd actually recommend springing for a pair of mini bolt cutters. The extra leverage really saves your hand, and makes cutting through steel wire pretty easy.
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Apr 23, 2015 08:10
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Cross-posting my Beast 09 from the Warmahordes thread. Butcher 3 is next! More pics: http://s250.photobucket.com/user/Crabstuffed/Khador/story
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Apr 23, 2015 15:57
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It's cool how the color difference on the axe makes it look like it's glowing even in bad lighting. Shows that you did a good job keeping your palette reigned in. I also get a kick out of the kind of early-90s comic book feel to how your did your details and lining. It seems on-purpose-sloppy. Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles should fight it. I guess they will, since it's warmahordes.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:57
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Does anyone know of a good guide for how to paint obsidian? I've got a few 15mm figures with chipped stone weapons and I want to paint them as if they were chipped black glass rather than rocks and am not quite sure the best way to go about it.
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Apr 23, 2015 20:41
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nesbit37 posted:Does anyone know of a good guide for how to paint obsidian? I've got a few 15mm figures with chipped stone weapons and I want to paint them as if they were chipped black glass rather than rocks and am not quite sure the best way to go about it. nvm I'm stupid as hell and shouldn't be offering advice. Shachi fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 21:59
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Ensign Expendable posted:Working through the Masterbox marines slowly but surely. This guy looked a lot more fearsome on the box. Without the facial expression, he looks like he's at the pole vault instead of a war. Why... would he grip the barrel of a presumably hot gun?
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Apr 23, 2015 22:00
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It looks like a German machine pistol, so he's probably in the middle of disarming some chump.
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Apr 23, 2015 22:26
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nesbit37 posted:Does anyone know of a good guide for how to paint obsidian? I've got a few 15mm figures with chipped stone weapons and I want to paint them as if they were chipped black glass rather than rocks and am not quite sure the best way to go about it. Paint them light grey, go over them with a few washes of black ink and then lightly drybrush the edges with white.
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Apr 23, 2015 23:38
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nesbit37 posted:Does anyone know of a good guide for how to paint obsidian? I've got a few 15mm figures with chipped stone weapons and I want to paint them as if they were chipped black glass rather than rocks and am not quite sure the best way to go about it. P3's Coal Black mixed in with Black as basecoat in about 1:4 ratio, wash with black, edge highlight with Coal Black, dot highlights with a white-ish grey. Gloss to cover. Jobs a good 'un.
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Apr 24, 2015 03:44
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Not PAINTING exactly but I got the new KRQ case from KR Multicase. It's rad as gently caress and holds about 50 28mm figures. They're pretty cheap too!
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Apr 25, 2015 02:50
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moths posted:It looks like a German machine pistol, so he's probably in the middle of disarming some chump. Yup, it's a hand to hand combat set.
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Apr 25, 2015 04:34
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Paint question https://signalnoisenet-my.sharepoin...36a2888d275dd1e I am making a 72 paint travel set of everything I might ever want for non-airbrushing purposes (meaning no multiple varnishes because I'll do that at home). This is my set so far. I have 11 more slots that I can fill. What can I put on this list to make it better that fits in a bottle? Specific brand and paint name suggestions are welcome and I'll try anything, I'm just getting away from Minitaire at the moment. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Apr 25, 2015 |
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Apr 25, 2015 17:07
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P3 Coal Black, Reaper Blue Liner and Brown Liner, Reaper Walnut Brown and Linen White would be on my list for sure. Probably VMC Black Grey and Black Red too.
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Apr 25, 2015 17:12
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If I wanted to do the same gem effect as the windows here, what would you recommend as the progression of colors if I were to do it in yellow? I have the warmer yellows for NMM purposes: zamesi desert, balor brown (forgive me for buying GW paints, shop didn't have any vallejo), VGC parasite brown, and VGC beastly brown. Would this suffice or should I get different colors?
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Apr 25, 2015 17:26
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Saw ModelMates (http://www.modelmates.co.uk/) at Salute today, and was wondering if anyone's had any experience using their weathering liquids? Basically water-soluble inks in a thick-ish medium, which remain water soluble and don't cure, so you can wipe them off with a damp cloth; a bit like oil washes, but without the need for white spirit.
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Apr 25, 2015 17:35
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signalnoise posted:Not PAINTING exactly but I got the new KRQ case from KR Multicase. It's rad as gently caress and holds about 50 28mm figures. Got a link for it? I'm starting to build my mini collection and they're just sitting on a shelf.
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Apr 25, 2015 18:50
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Hamlet442 posted:Got a link for it? I'm starting to build my mini collection and they're just sitting on a shelf. https://www.krmulticase.com Very reasonable prices and a solid product with an extremely elegant tray system.
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Apr 25, 2015 22:09
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So, I built a new lightbox, way sturdier and roomier than the old one (yes I let my cat in): And here are my first pictures to come from it, of my newly painted Malifaux Ortega crew:    First picture came from my proper camera, other two just from my phone. Pictures look okay, but I think they could get much better. Question is, how do I make my photos better? Do I play with settings, add another layer of tracing paper for diffusion? Try angling the light different next time? Certainly I want to get rid of the light creeping in from the side of several shots. Wazzu fucked around with this message at 09:45 on Apr 26, 2015 |
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Apr 26, 2015 09:41
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