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Oooh, my mistake. didnt realized they were heat fused together, i just assumed you glued them together somehow, but yeah kiln, that does take quite an bit of room  EDIT: New page, so to celebrate, here is some drilling porn for you all  
Just a Fish fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Apr 19, 2015 |
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Apr 18, 2015 19:36
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Just a Fish posted:EDIT: New page, so to celebrate, here is some drilling porn for you all I don't get it. It looks like a piece of squished up flexible metal ducting that terminates at a cap in the ceiling.
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Apr 20, 2015 09:06
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I'm pretty sure it's a large stack of diamond plate that has a hole drilled in it.
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Apr 20, 2015 11:21
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I'm sure I'll catch grief from someone for this, but this weekend I turned a sand rammer on my Sheldon, I used old oak strips and glued them up and turned it down. I think I may have made it too big, but at 2.3lbs and about 3" in diameter it ought to pound sand.  I started putting a superglue finish on it (I've used it successfully before) but I ran out of super glue. Can't keep the crap in stock cause it goes bad as soon as you put it on the shelf.   Cleaning that wood dust up is going to be a pain.  I had a shop vac running the entire time I turned, but it's hard to hold the hose and a turning chisel/tool. I really need to finish up de-rusting that old 10" South Bend and build a vacuum hood for it.And I mig'ed on the C ring, which I made too large, so I added a couple rods to make it pour at 90deg, can't wait to finish up my brake drum forge so I don't have to waste acetylene on goofy little projects like that. 
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Apr 20, 2015 12:59
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They're tearing up a railway about thirty minutes from my place. This was all I could carry without my bike frame breaking.  Needless to say, I'll be back several times. Rime fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Apr 21, 2015 |
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Apr 21, 2015 03:06
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Rime posted:They're tearing up a railway about thirty minutes from my place. This was all I could carry without my bike frame breaking. Heck yes. Try to see if they have any pandrols They look like this:  High quality spring steel. Much better for making a blade than those spikes. It won't be easy to straighten them out, but they're great for holding an edge.
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Apr 21, 2015 03:14
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Nah, this line was put down at the turn of the century and abandoned in the 70s, they never upgraded past spikes. gently caress load of spikes and plates and those weird hooks though.
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Apr 21, 2015 03:19
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Rime posted:Nah, this line was put down at the turn of the century and abandoned in the 70s, they never upgraded past spikes. I'm not sure what all those plates can be used for. I use mine to hold firebrick and I use it as a welding station for my oxyfuel. I've also used one as a heat sink.
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Apr 21, 2015 03:37
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This one is going under the foot of track that I previously acquired as our shop newbie anvil, as a base plate. I figure worst case I can just any others into strips with the plasma cutter and essentially make ghetto billets. 
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Apr 21, 2015 04:10
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Rime posted:This one is going under the foot of track that I previously acquired as our shop newbie anvil, as a base plate. I figure worst case I can just any others into strips with the plasma cutter and essentially make ghetto billets. Eh, it might be cast. Pretty worthless as billets if it is, unless you're melting it down. A baseplate might work, but you'll have to fasten everything down really well or it will be super loud.
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Apr 21, 2015 04:15
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blunt for century posted:Eh, it might be cast. Pretty worthless as billets if it is, unless you're melting it down. A baseplate might work, but you'll have to fasten everything down really well or it will be super loud. If only he had some fuckoff big nails or spikes or what have you, then he could fasten down the whole assembly to a log or something. In seriousness, that is a sweet haul. Nice!
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Apr 21, 2015 18:56
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Uncle Enzo posted:If only he had some fuckoff big nails or spikes or what have you, then he could fasten down the whole assembly to a log or something. Hmmm, I wonder where he might get some spikes like that. You should contact a machinist and have some made
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Apr 21, 2015 19:01
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:I don't get it. It looks like a piece of squished up flexible metal ducting that terminates at a cap in the ceiling. Ah, sorry. i know its kinda bad picture, but yes Brekelefuw is right, its an old Heat exchanger from Airconditioner, planning on making an some sort of an Stormlamp out of it
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Apr 21, 2015 20:06
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Rime posted:They're tearing up a railway about thirty minutes from my place. This was all I could carry without my bike frame breaking. Man, here in the US I look into that box and all I see is 15 years with time off for good behavior. One of the kids at my school just got arrested last week for picking up scrap spikes from a rail line that is not only abandoned, but hasn't been connected to the main line in 20 years. He's facing 5 years for felony theft for THREE spikes. Course he got caught because he actually called CSX to her permission and they told him to gently caress off. Then they sent a couple of real cops out to watch the line for a couple days. Arrested him on the spot.
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Apr 24, 2015 05:55
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Kasan posted:Course he got caught because he actually called CSX to her permission and they told him to gently caress off. Then they sent a couple of real cops out to watch the line for a couple days. Arrested him on the spot. Always better to make that call from a payphone after you've looted it. What are those J-shaped bits used for, anyway? I may have one or two in my own hypothetical box of railroad spikes. In other news, I've been watching a lot of documentaries about battleships lately. The Iowas had up to 20 inches of armour on the turrets. How did they build that? Seems like it'd be a bitch and a half to weld.
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Apr 24, 2015 16:42
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Always better to make that call from a payphone after you've looted it. They did a huge V butt joint (not sure if it's single or double.) Then the welder started at the bottom, and built up a bead to fill the whole thing. And/or just riveted it.
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Apr 24, 2015 22:25
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Kasan posted:Man, here in the US I look into that box and all I see is 15 years with time off for good behavior. One of the kids at my school just got arrested last week for picking up scrap spikes from a rail line that is not only abandoned, but hasn't been connected to the main line in 20 years. He's facing 5 years for felony theft for THREE spikes. that's such bullshit. You're basically recycling their trash at that point. If I have a shitload of bent beer cans in my front yard, I'm not going to call the cops on the homeless guy who takes them to the scrap yard. 'Noooo, clearly it's better to have the steel rust away to nothing' 
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Apr 24, 2015 22:49
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blunt for century posted:that's such bullshit. You're basically recycling their trash at that point. If I have a shitload of bent beer cans in my front yard, I'm not going to call the cops on the homeless guy who takes them to the scrap yard. The law's the law *pays multiple cops hundreds or thousands of dollars in OT to ruin a dudes life over a couple pieces of abandoned scrap steel*
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Apr 24, 2015 23:48
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Many years ago, when I first started smithing, I hiked the tracks all the time for free spikes. Once I even came across a stopped train, and chatted with the conductor for about 10 minutes and told him I was out getting spikes for making knives. He said that it was badass, and directed me to a few spots further on down that had huge piles of spikes, then he threw me and my friends some cold bottles of water, told us to stay in the shade, and started chugging along. I always knew it was 'illegal' but I didn't think anyone really cared. I just thought they just didn't want drunk people getting hit by trains and only kind of enforced the trespassing thing blunt for century fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Apr 25, 2015 |
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Apr 25, 2015 00:03
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blunt for century posted:I always knew it was 'illegal' but I didn't think anyone really cared. I just thought they just didn't want drunk people getting hit by trains and only kind of enforced the trespassing thing It's actually a law because some dudes in like, Iowa or Idaho or somewhere in the Midwest hacked up a section of track they assumed was abandoned. Caused a derailment and several deaths. Been a federal crime ever since to scavenge or tamper with a rail line. Rail cops are one of the only private security firms federally licensed to arrest you anywhere in the country, as long as its with-in 500 yards of some railroad track (even poo poo abandoned since the late 1880s). Mostly they just enforce the no trespassing an anti vagabond poo poo, but every so often I hear about them arresting people for picking up scrap. (Or in a local case a few months ago: trying load fresh track into a pickup truck with a stolen forklift before they could lay it down to replace some of the aging stuff. Which when they do I fully plan on talking to the contractor and finding out where that old track is going.)
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Apr 25, 2015 06:34
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I had my first class of a Blacksmithing introduction course today. Had a ton of fun, perfect forging weather, constant rain and about 12 degrees Celsius. It was frustrating, given every tool, technique and material was completely new to me, but found it surprisingly relaxing, chilling while you wait for the heat, staring into the smouldering coke and then breaking into that rhythmic *tink*, *twist*, *tink*, *twist* is fantastic. To begin we just made an S hook, some of the others had already had some small experience with this stuff so what they made looked a lot neater and balanced than mine, but as I made a really a tight scroll to begin with I made a conscious effort to make the other one a bit wider. I then went home, had my first homebrew beer ever and watched the rays destroy the blue jays. A loving great day. 
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Apr 25, 2015 10:09
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That sounds like a fantastic day and I wish I were free to do the same.
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Apr 25, 2015 12:54
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Well, you lucky bastard. That sounds like about the most awesome day ever
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Apr 25, 2015 15:57
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Any of you sage chaps do much electroplating? I'm particularly interested in food safe finishes. http://3dprint.com/11807/3d-printed-skyrim-swords/ has me wondering if i can make customised goblets and tankards.
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Apr 26, 2015 19:40
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Any of you sage chaps do much electroplating? The philosophizing at the end of that article is hilarious. "Somebody might 3d print a knife and sharpen it, oh no." Because it's so much easier and more effective to take a few hours printing a base layer, electroplate it with a thin metal layer, and sharpen that than to grab a chuck of scrap steel and take a grinder to it.
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Apr 26, 2015 19:51
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Yeah or http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150424-dutch-students-smuggle-3d-printed-knives-into-court-to-prove-a-security-flaw.html Its the same mentality that stops me taking nail clippers onto a plane then gives me steel cutlery and glass with my meal. Its a mystery. I guess it might be interesting to see what would happen if you made exotic or historical reproduction arrow tips and then plated them for hardness or plated helmets for role-playing or SCA or whatever but that's not my thing. Unless nerds would want to pay me lots of money for said lightweight plated helmets, then it might be.
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Apr 26, 2015 20:33
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Unless nerds would want to pay me lots of money for said lightweight plated helmets, then it might be. You might entice roleplay or larp nerds with it. You won't make an SCA legal helm with that method tho. We have pretty strict requirements on what goes on the head. Not so much the rest of the body, but the head definitely.
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Apr 26, 2015 23:31
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Yeah, I'd be extremely leery of trusting just plating to do much in the way of protection- it's a slow process, especially if you're doing it at a hobbyist scale, and you'd need an extraordinarily thick plating to have any effect- IIRC typical SCA recommendations for armour are ~14-16 gauge mild steel, so 1.5-2 mm, or 1500-2000 microns, and plating is considered extremely thick for most purposes if it exceeds ~10-15 microns. Electroforming a thick layer of metal over the very large surface of a piece of armour would either require a beastly power supply or, probably, days and days of patience. And even then, you're plating on a metal that's inferior to steel for protective purposes, and would accordingly need a thicker layer to provide equivalent protection. It sounds very legit for producing a polishable/buffable real-metal surface that'll look miles better than metal paint or what-have-you, but not for doing the actual functional work of armour.* *note i have only done terrible jerry-rigged electroless plating so take it with a big spoon of salt
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Apr 27, 2015 00:49
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Oh yeah I meant making something with the right appearance, not functionality. Elvish great helms and crowns etc. That said when you look at even a motorbike helmet it's polystyrene with a thin layer of plastic so you could possibly do something similar with polystyrene, a thick shell of ABS or Nylon with a cosmetic brush plated finish. Anyway, I'm not doing that. Tell me more about how not to die in a hydrogen explosion while I hook up batteries.
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Apr 27, 2015 06:39
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Oh yeah I meant making something with the right appearance, not functionality. Elvish great helms and crowns etc. Are motorcycle helmets designed for a lifetime of big dudes hitting you in the head with rattan? I'm honestly not sure how much long term durability it would have when faced with repeated impacts. Do you have to replace a motorcycle helmet if you get in a crash and hit your head?
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Apr 27, 2015 06:49
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No I think they're designed to dissipate a single impact of several tons. Perhaps a better comparison then would be a riot helmet, also foam covered in rigid cover. But it's a moot point as I'm not planning to try it. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Apr 27, 2015 |
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Apr 27, 2015 07:31
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Beardless posted:Are motorcycle helmets designed for a lifetime of big dudes hitting you in the head with rattan? I'm honestly not sure how much long term durability it would have when faced with repeated impacts. Do you have to replace a motorcycle helmet if you get in a crash and hit your head? Having crashed a motorcycle at a speed significant enough to total the motorcycle, I can safely say the helmet was toast and wasn't DTS legal after the impact. I had to replace it (and it wasn't a cheap helmet either). That said, I've seen what kind of force some of the fighters out here in Atlantia can put out with a rattan sword and I wouldn't trust a motorcycle helmet to withstand more than 2 non-glancing hits. Less depending on the fighter in question. The plastic shell is just too brittle. SCA Heavy Marshal's Handbook posted:Helms shall be constructed from steel which has a thickness of no less than .0625 (that is, 1/16) inch (1.612 mm), or of equivalent material. Alternative materials, such as stainless steel, brass, bronze, or like materials, are permissible as long as the material is structurally equivalent to 0.0625 inch thick steel. The mass of the helm is an important part of the protection. As such, no titanium, fiberglass, aluminum, or other ultra light materials may be used unless they meet the equivalent mass, strength, and weight of steel which has a thickness of no less than .0625 (that is, 1/16) inch (1.612mm). Proof of construction technique, materials, and equivalency must be provided to the kingdom earl marshal (KEM) for an approval for in kingdom use. If a spun metal top is to be used in the construction of the helm, it shall be a minimum of 0.075 inch (14 gauge or 1.905 mm) steel. The process of spinning the top thins the metal, thereby requiring a heavier gauge. Edit: Real talk on helms. SCA helms are big business. For around $30 in material you can make a helm (with practice) that will resell for close to $500. Helms do eventually wear out (get dinged and beat up enough that it's more cost effective to replace it than attempt repairing it.) And as kits get upgraded and entire new kits built around new personas, helms are always getting sold. (Spring steel and aircraft aluminium armor as well). Kasan fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Apr 27, 2015 |
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Apr 27, 2015 18:55
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Kasan posted:Having crashed a motorcycle at a speed significant enough to total the motorcycle, I can safely say the helmet was toast and wasn't DTS legal after the impact. I had to replace it (and it wasn't a cheap helmet either). That said, I've seen what kind of force some of the fighters out here in Atlantia can put out with a rattan sword and I wouldn't trust a motorcycle helmet to withstand more than 2 non-glancing hits. Less depending on the fighter in question. The plastic shell is just too brittle. That's about what I figured, that a motorcycle would hold up to one BIG impact, but not as well to a series of smaller ones. Which is fine, as they're not designed or intended for that.
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Apr 27, 2015 19:02
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Beardless posted:That's about what I figured, that a motorcycle would hold up to one BIG impact, but not as well to a series of smaller ones. Which is fine, as they're not designed or intended for that. Helmets are abrasion ablative and impact dampening, they go squish at a rate just fast enough to keep from smearing your delicate think-meats all over the inside of your skull, and wear down from rubbing slow enough to keep you from sanding most of your face and skull off as you slide to a stop They can do this exactly once. A helm will stand up to some astonishing levels of force, over and over again.
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Apr 28, 2015 08:04
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Do yall think it's practical to tin-plate the inside of a soldered copper flask by degreasing it real well, filling it with electrolyte and suspending a tin anode in the flask? I'm getting that "make myself a fancy flask" itch again, but food-safe-to-begin-with metals are impractical or undesirable and tinning the copper beforehand and then soldering it sounds like it'd be real hard to guarantee there aren't any untinned areas once it's assembled (and impossible to touch up because of the geometry of a flask).
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Apr 30, 2015 15:14
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Do yall think it's practical to tin-plate the inside of a soldered copper flask by degreasing it real well, filling it with electrolyte and suspending a tin anode in the flask? I'm getting that "make myself a fancy flask" itch again, but food-safe-to-begin-with metals are impractical or undesirable and tinning the copper beforehand and then soldering it sounds like it'd be real hard to guarantee there aren't any untinned areas once it's assembled (and impossible to touch up because of the geometry of a flask). Make your flask how you like it, then find a glass blower to inflate a glass bubble inside it. Totally food safe, use a cork with a fancy metal cap to close it.
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Apr 30, 2015 18:23
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That's... a really good idea, if I knew any glassblowers at any rate. I never considered that, if I'm making the thing, it doesn't have to actually look like a modern flask. I could do something like  And just make a Masonite silhouette die for sinking the halves, so each half matches perfectly and there's a crisp flange for easy soldering without worrying about ruining the inner tinning so much.
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Apr 30, 2015 19:35
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You going for that Asterix-magic-potion look for your flask? 
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Apr 30, 2015 19:50
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well. why not, is my thinking
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Apr 30, 2015 20:11
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Ambrose Burnside posted:That's... a really good idea, if I knew any glassblowers at any rate. Using a design like this, don't even bother with the solder. Tin the interior, make one half slightly larger than the other, then crimp and roll the edge in on it self. Should end up water tight, and assuming you've annealed the copper prior to tining, the stuff is like plastic at the point and easy to do. If it needs to be more stiff and rigid, you can always work harden everything but the edges (because who doesn't love lightly tapping copper for an hour x_X)
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Apr 30, 2015 22:08
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