|
Touchscreen can be ok as long as there are physical buttons (preferably on wheel) for most used functions. This is where my BRZ drives me crazy compared to the WRX. Skipping a track or answering a phone call requires taking eyes off the road to try to it a tiny touch button on the display while the car is bouncing around. Annoying to say the least.
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2015 18:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 06:19 |
|
|
Yeah my button is on the steering wheel. I love that my XV still has knobs for heat and A/C control.. the touchscreen so far is mostly just the radio and phone for me all which can be used by the wheel controls. Still haven't actually used the backup camera yet.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2015 21:34
|
|
|
Drove home my 2015 Forester last night, feels good man. Had to give the Civic one more hug before I turned in the keys.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2015 17:40
|
|
|
I'm retiring my '02 Camry and I'm going to look at a 2010 Forester XT LTD at a dealer (60k miles). Are there any specific issues I should keep an eye out for? The car looks very clean from the pictures but of course that doesn't really mean anything. Also, in the realm of snow tires, are there any particular tires I should look for/stay away from?
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2015 20:13
|
|
|
Scruff McGruff posted:I'm retiring my '02 Camry and I'm going to look at a 2010 Forester XT LTD at a dealer (60k miles). Are there any specific issues I should keep an eye out for? The car looks very clean from the pictures but of course that doesn't really mean anything. Also, in the realm of snow tires, are there any particular tires I should look for/stay away from? Altimax arctics or winterforces for cheap options. hakkas or blizzaks if you want to drop the $$$$. I did 12 hours in a snow storm in vermont at night on alitmax and loved them. A 2010 should be relatively unfucked with, my buddy just picked up an 09XT and the third gens seem to all be grandpa owned because they were the only ones that came with a nicer interior. Normally you'd want a leakdown test and check for mods on a turbo subaru, but I really don't think this applies here.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2015 20:26
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Altimax arctics or winterforces for cheap options. hakkas or blizzaks if you want to drop the $$$$. I did 12 hours in a snow storm in vermont at night on alitmax and loved them. I think you need a leakdown on any ej257 as the piston issue relates as much to the bad stock tune as any driving style.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2015 20:40
|
|
|
I had bought four cans of that Rustoleum plastidip competitor, "Flexidip" last fall, in bright red, with intent to spray these beat up WRX wheels I picked up for cheap. I kind of debated spraying it on, figured it would be kind of obnoxious, but that's the point though, right? Read some reviews and saw some pictures and videos, turns out it's not quite as good as plastidip and the red is sort of a red-orange. I thought something metallic would look better against my Satin White Pearl paint, and plastidip "Vintage Gold" looked good for the six months it held up, so I stopped at the hardware store the other day and picked up some Rustoleum "Oil Rubbed Bronze" metallic paint! My brother helped me out with the two rears, we spent about 4 hours cleaning the wheels, sanding and cleaning them again, masking them off and then doing about 4 coats of primer, 5 top coats and about 3 coats of gloss clearcoat. I did the front two wheels myself the following day, it was an all day procedure. We even used a blow dryer to speed up the drying process! I'm pretty psyched with how they turned out, for $80 in wheels and about $40 in paint.     The last picture is instagram filtered, it was a little gloomy yesterday so I warmed it up a little to get closer to the real color in daylight. I ended up using a little bit of the red Flexidip on the center caps as you can see.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2015 16:30
|
|
|
How many cans of paint? I am planning on painting my (older) legacy outback wheels in the next few weeks. I was going to go with the standard black wheels - white wagon approach but that bronze is awesome.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2015 16:35
|
|
|
Argila posted:How many cans of paint? I am planning on painting my (older) legacy outback wheels in the next few weeks. I was going to go with the standard black wheels - white wagon approach but that bronze is awesome. Two cans of the dark grey primer, two cans of bronze, two cans of clearcoat. When I did the vintage gold plastidip, I bought the DYC wheel kit which is four cans, and ended up only using two, and I think I did 6-8 coats on each wheel. Basically I did it till it was opaque, and then did like three more coats for good measure. I think I should have kept going because it ended up peeling after just a few months, and still haven't peeled all of it off yet. I don't know how plastidip compares to regular spray paint in terms of dispersement or volume, but my point is, while two cans of plastidip ended up being a bit thin, 2 cans of rustoleum was enough for 5 coats on all 4 wheels. I bought 3 cans just in case, but now I just have an extra. I did a similar job on this little Sonoma I owned a few years ago, minus clearcoat. I remember using 4 cans of Hunter Green Satin on this project. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2015 17:30
|
|
|
I posted this before, but it seems to be getting a bit worse. Is there anything that I can check that would easily explain an uneven throttle? When I'm accelerating I'm fine, but if I'm doing about 35 or 40, and just lightly holding the accelerator down, I'm not getting steady power, it's like it is coming in waves. It's relatively new. No CEL or any other warning signs that I've noticed either, just the uneven power. I've already cleaned the MAF sensor and it didn't seem to help it much. Is there something else I could check? '08 LGT if it matters.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2015 18:48
|
|
|
Have you reset the ecu? The throttle is electronic and sometimes the ecu gets cute with learning your habits and makes a mistake.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2015 19:21
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I posted this before, but it seems to be getting a bit worse. Do you have an accessport? If so, check/ log your boost levels. You might be having wastegate or boost solenoid issues.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2015 19:46
|
|
|
Neptr posted:Do you have an accessport? If so, check/ log your boost levels. You might be having wastegate or boost solenoid issues. Sadly I do not have an accessport. nm posted:Have you reset the ecu? Is that as simple as unplugging the battery, or should I find the fuse?
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2015 20:36
|
|
|
Has anyone gotten more mileage in-town than on the highway? With my old job, I got ~27mpg with all of it on the highway, not even the interstate. I just got 28.5-29 from a tank where <10 miles was on the interstate, and the rest was in town or on a 55 mph back road.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2015 20:04
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Has anyone gotten more mileage in-town than on the highway? With my old job, I got ~27mpg with all of it on the highway, not even the interstate. I just got 28.5-29 from a tank where <10 miles was on the interstate, and the rest was in town or on a 55 mph back road. MPG tops out around 50 mph on these things, drops off after that, especially over 70.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2015 21:56
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Has anyone gotten more mileage in-town than on the highway? With my old job, I got ~27mpg with all of it on the highway, not even the interstate. I just got 28.5-29 from a tank where <10 miles was on the interstate, and the rest was in town or on a 55 mph back road. My Baja's got the aerodynamics of a brick with the top lights, before the swap and everything, the old trans had a 4.11 final drive. In 5th I'd be doing something close to 4k rpms at 60mph iirc. City mileage was much better than highway, and highway absolutely tanked with a headwind. The 6spd with the 3.54 final drive is a huge improvement.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2015 22:09
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:MPG tops out around 50 mph on these things, drops off after that, especially over 70. Huh, I didn't know that. I swear I got 29-30 maybe a year after I got this thing , about 2/3 on the interstate, 1/3 on a 65mph highway (so 70). Maybe it's just getting worse because it's 16 years old now, rather than 11. And I thought I was getting mid-20s in town back then too. I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth. I was expecting to be getting maybe 23-25 now that I'm pretty much entirely in-town. So that's 12-20% less gas cost. I've got an (I think, from googling) 3.9 final drive ratio, so mine doesn't suck as hard as your did, Bajaha. I'm sitting around 3500 at 80. I think I generally hit around 25 like that, maybe 26 if I'm lucky. My old job had me driving at least 100 miles a day, so I had a lot of time to do math in my head, and I started keeping my receipts to do actual math after I had some major work done. So I'm not really a huge sperg about this. More paying attention to my gas budget.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2015 22:31
|
|
|
I got 7.3L/100km when I drove 32 hours across Australia in February which apparently is 32mpg. All flat highways, 2005 wrx (last of the 2l, its a blobeye) using cruise control.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 04:29
|
|
|
Wow, that is really good. Was it the kind of thing where you could keep out of boost and just cruise? >30 is pretty impressive for an AWD vehicle, at least up until a couple years ago. Out of an EJ that was a ~16 year old design when your car came out, that's really good. If I understand car physics right (I might not), someone should definitely be able to get better than me if they're closer to sea level. I'm running with 14% less oxygen than someone at sea level, that seems like it would make a significant difference in efficiency. But I've never tuned a car in my life.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 07:00
|
|
|
Yeah we just kept driving until we ran out of fuel. I also didn't have that much weight, I had at most 2 passengers and a few bags of clothes in the boot. The real weight was in the 2 4x4s I was also with. Just hour after hour of highway
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 08:29
|
|
|
A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I got 7.3L/100km when I drove 32 hours across Australia in February which apparently is 32mpg. All flat highways, 2005 wrx (last of the 2l, its a blobeye) using cruise control. I got similar to this in my MY04 during Sydney to Brisbane runs. Staying off boost gives it surprisingly good highway Kms.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 08:39
|
|
|
My run was the reverse. Brisbane to Mt Kosciusko via Blue Haven (just north of Sydney) and back again.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 09:02
|
|
|
I once averaged about 29 mpg in SW Virginia on rural highways doing about 60 mpg in my 2009 wrx. Was pretty impressed as that area is all mountains. Last week with a yakima skybox on I95 doing about 75 I averaged about 23 though, with cruise most of the way. I had to turn off the mpg display out of disgust.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 14:14
|
|
|
I lose an easy 3-4 mpg with the roof rack.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 14:40
|
|
|
I just drove from Michigan to Florida and then the reverse in the last week and in the flatter states I was averaging about 26mpg with two passengers and a weeks worth of clothing/luggage in my 14 wrx hatch, cruising between 60-70mph. In the hillier states though I was getting about 23mpg. Still pretty happy with the results
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 14:42
|
|
|
Thorpe posted:I just drove from Michigan to Florida and then the reverse in the last week and in the flatter states I was averaging about 26mpg with two passengers and a weeks worth of clothing/luggage in my 14 wrx hatch, cruising between 60-70mph. In the hillier states though I was getting about 23mpg. Still pretty happy with the results I made a similar drive not too long ago (Florida to Minnesota and back), and Tennessee was probably my favorite part of the drive. Illinois was my least favorite.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 15:00
|
|
|
trem posted:I made a similar drive not too long ago (Florida to Minnesota and back), and Tennessee was probably my favorite part of the drive. Illinois was my least favorite. Tennessee and Kentucky were both awesome, but Georgia was completely awful. Especially since I hit Atlanta right at rush hour on Friday. Set me back a good 2 hours.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 15:06
|
|
|
Driving west to east on 40 I made around 26 miles to the gallon in my 03 outback with all my worldly possessions in the car. I was very happy with that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 15:42
|
|
|
Thorpe posted:Tennessee and Kentucky were both awesome, but Georgia was completely awful. Especially since I hit Atlanta right at rush hour on Friday. Set me back a good 2 hours. Oh yeah I forgot about that. We hit rush hour in Atlanta on our way north. On the way back down we got hit with a 7 hour delay in Kentucky because of the heavy snow and the highway being closed. Got to sleep a bit though so it wasn't too bad. Once we started moving again I also got to see some guy who had never been in snow in his 3-series coupe almost fly off the road a few times. (We were in a Kia Optima)
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 16:26
|
|
|
I looked at this today: http://www.aeromotorcars.com/2007_Subaru_Forester_Norwell_MA_253725137.veh It's below book value and the seller knows what it is and is not flexible on price at all, which is fair. There was some road and wind noise, the brake pedal felt soft and stopping power in general wasn't great. Is that normal? Besides that I loved the way it drove, good power and it handled well for a CUV. It has just had head gaskets and valve guides done, coolant lines all replaced, and turbo checked (CARFAX says it's been checked, dealer said it was replaced). All other maintenance is up to date for the mileage (timing belt, etc). Is it totally stupid to buy this without a compression and leakdown test performed, or is that something that's only a necessity for a tuned car or for years prone to lovely factory tunes? I am a bit worried that the headgaskets and turbo maintenance were the PO throwing money at an oil use problem that could have been ringlands. I checked for other signs like oily gunk on the tail pipe (there was some black exhaust soot only) and smoke coming out of oil filler after driving it and didn't see anything. I know the mileage is high and I don't mind putting some money into it to keep it running well and have the car I want. Comedy option: https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/4996797918.html
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 19:35
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I lose an easy 3-4 mpg with the roof rack. Never thought about that. I never use mine, is there any way to remove a stock one? Academic question, I have nowhere to put it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 19:45
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Never thought about that. I never use mine, is there any way to remove a stock one? Academic question, I have nowhere to put it. You could probably sell it to someone who wants one. As to your other question, I don't know but yes there is.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 19:48
|
|
|
The upper neck of the radiator on my 05 legacy gt 5mt is finally cracking (after half of it sheared off a couple years back), so it's new rad time. Is there an option for OEM-replacement that's significantly cheaper than the Mishimoto ($270 at fredbeans)? I'm not tracking it and haven't had any issues with stock, but I don't want to use a lovely knock-off part.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 21:37
|
|
|
Wojcigitty posted:I looked at this today: The wind noise is probably the frameless windows if foresters have those. Imprezas are pretty notorious for it. It's just a part of the car.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 02:51
|
|
|
A Saucy Bratwurst posted:The wind noise is probably the frameless windows if foresters have those. Imprezas are pretty notorious for it. It's just a part of the car. The wind noise can be helped somewhat by replacing the triangular gussets that the side mirrors attach to (they were something like $40/each last I looked), but it's also possible to cut down the noise by careful application of a C-clamp to the gussets (with the windows down) to get them to seal a little better to the front windows. That said, the design of the windows means they're never going to be as quiet as normal, framed windows (Subaru gave up on the frameless design completely in '08), and the wind noise will get progressively louder over time as those gussets work loose from the windows again, but that's pretty easy to solve by just clamping the gussets back down again when they get noisy.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 04:26
|
|
|
What usually happens is the gussets widen out and can be replaced or crushed back down with pliers. Closing the door by the window fucks them up. Also the windows go up too high and rip the gusset at the top. You have to adjust the window so at max height it isn't ripping through the top gusset.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 13:48
|
|
|
Thanks for the info guys, I was wondering why there was so much wind noise on my Legacy. Any opinions on the leakdown test on the Forester?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 14:15
|
|
|
You can also treat those little triangles and the gasket on the top of the door frame with something like this which makes the rubber more pliable again so it forms a better seal with the window.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 14:27
|
|
|
door Door door posted:You can also treat those little triangles and the gasket on the top of the door frame with something like this which makes the rubber more pliable again so it forms a better seal with the window. Oh good I was going to ask what a good brand of rubber seal dressing was for these cars. Also what's the material on those? silicone? OXBALLS DOT COM fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Apr 27, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 16:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 06:19 |
|
|
Scruff McGruff posted:I'm retiring my '02 Camry and I'm going to look at a 2010 Forester XT LTD at a dealer (60k miles). Are there any specific issues I should keep an eye out for? The car looks very clean from the pictures but of course that doesn't really mean anything. Also, in the realm of snow tires, are there any particular tires I should look for/stay away from? Update: I was scheduled for a test drive today but I just got an email from the dealer that the car had a CEL come up for a fuel pressure regulator. They apparently have it at a Subaru dealer getting it replaced. Is this indicative of bigger problems/is it a big deal itself?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 21:15
|
|