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krushgroove posted:POST MORE PICTURES! 
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May 1, 2015 09:07
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I just got back into painting after a 15 year absence, so forgive my ignorant questions. I picked up some Pink Soap brush cleaner, but there aren't actually instructions on it. How much do I add to my water cup when I'm painting? Or is it something to only use when I'm done for the day? I also found some clearance paints that I impulse bought. They're the CreateFX line from Testors. I snagged Driftwood, Mud, Green, Black, and Rust stains for about 1.25 each. Anyone have any experience using them?
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May 1, 2015 18:13
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Big McHuge posted:I just got back into painting after a 15 year absence, so forgive my ignorant questions. Interesting. The website for them says they are acrylic but gives instructions (apply heavily, wait 15 mins, remove from high surfaces with water or thinner) sounds more like an oil wash. I don't think I have ever used an acrylic that wasn't bone dry in 15 mins unless I drowned it in retarder.
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May 1, 2015 18:32
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Big McHuge posted:I picked up some Pink Soap brush cleaner, but there aren't actually instructions on it. How much do I add to my water cup when I'm painting? Or is it something to only use when I'm done for the day? The More You Know... 
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May 1, 2015 20:30
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berzerkmonkey posted:When you're done painting, just put a little dab in your palm and gently scrub a wet brush around in it for a bit. Rinse the brush and reshape the tip. Pro tip: it's actually a decent solvent that can "repair" brushes where paint has dried in the bristles. It can also be used as a stain remover. Thanks so much, that's really helpful. I've actually got a few brushes that could use that. Maybe it's just a case of rose-tinted glasses, but I seem to remember my old brushes holding a point and lasting a hell of a lot longer.
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May 1, 2015 21:20
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Can anyone recommend some good youtube channels or tutorial sites that aren't in the OP? I've got a skittering manpile and two knights to paint and want to up my game.
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May 2, 2015 12:22
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Thundercloud posted:Can anyone recommend some good youtube channels or tutorial sites that aren't in the OP? I've got a skittering manpile and two knights to paint and want to up my game. http://cursedmonkeys.com/?page_id=4108&lang=en http://www.akaranseth.com/category/blog/tutorials El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 12:42 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 2, 2015 12:35
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Cheers. Also looked at the new Warhammer Visions. Still not worth getting. Paint Spatter level articles on painting Metallica and Mars. Nothing in terms of developing techniques.
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May 2, 2015 12:52
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Alright suggestion time. I'm going to paint up my Dropzone Commander PHR like Skynet Terminators and my Resistance like they're from the Resistance from the new Terminator movies. I'm thinking for the PHR I do chrome with dark inking in recesses and red lights, maybe using a wash made from P3 Coal Black. Any suggestions on how to make a convincing chrome paintjob?
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May 2, 2015 16:03
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signalnoise posted:Alright suggestion time. I'm going to paint up my Dropzone Commander PHR like Skynet Terminators and my Resistance like they're from the Resistance from the new Terminator movies. I'm thinking for the PHR I do chrome with dark inking in recesses and red lights, maybe using a wash made from P3 Coal Black. Any suggestions on how to make a convincing chrome paintjob? http://www.amazon.com/PlastiKote-615-Chrome-Bumper-Paint/dp/B000CPI0QO
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May 2, 2015 16:14
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Oh poo poo yes
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May 2, 2015 16:17
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signalnoise posted:Oh poo poo yes Full disclosure, I have never used it or any chrome paint so be sure to do your research before you buy.
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May 2, 2015 16:20
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Indolent Bastard posted:Full disclosure, I have never used it or any chrome paint so be sure to do your research before you buy. Eh it's 8 bucks and I have spare sprue
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May 2, 2015 16:20
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Prime black before painting chrome.
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May 2, 2015 17:08
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signalnoise posted:Alright suggestion time. I'm going to paint up my Dropzone Commander PHR like Skynet Terminators and my Resistance like they're from the Resistance from the new Terminator movies. I'm thinking for the PHR I do chrome with dark inking in recesses and red lights, maybe using a wash made from P3 Coal Black. Any suggestions on how to make a convincing chrome paintjob? Alternative #1: The way scale car modelers do it. Extra-smooth primer, chrome paint, buff, gloss coat, repeat 1741369 times. Alternative #2: if you're not looking for "true chrome coat I can see myself in" but just a super-shiny metallic that looks good on the tabletop, Vallejo Model Air has very fine metallics a whole class above the usual mini painting stuff. Might try that and see if it's enough (you'll steel want VMA Steel for weapons/accents at this scale)
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May 2, 2015 17:16
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New Citadel brushes are up: They range from £3.50 for the Small Base to £12 for the XS "Artificer Layer" one. e: That's $AU34 ahahaha Literally more expensive than a W&N Series 7. adamantium|wang fucked around with this message at 00:49 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 00:46
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but these ones say citadel on them
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May 3, 2015 00:56
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adamantium|wang posted:New Citadel brushes are up: At least they come with plastic tubes to store them in?
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May 3, 2015 02:00
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My W&N came in tubes. The GW ones have a black ferrule though, and that reduces the harsh reflections given off by normal silver ferrules. This allows you to paint your miniatures to a much higher standard than other brushes. I'm trying to figure out the flat chisel thing that says "Texture."
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May 3, 2015 02:10
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I think reports say the artificer one is a rebranded S7. The texture chisel is for spreading the overpriced basing material. If it's cheap I might get it to spread my liquitex texture around. Edit: 8 dollars is way too much. MasterSlowPoke fucked around with this message at 03:35 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 03:11
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They literally just made a brush for each category of paint they make, even if they don't need one. There's no loving reason to have a separate brush for glazes. I'm pretty sure the Small Base, Medium Layer, and Medium Glaze are all the same brush.
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May 3, 2015 03:27
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berzerkmonkey posted:The GW ones have a black ferrule though, and that reduces the harsh reflections given off by normal silver ferrules. This allows you to paint your miniatures to a much higher standard than other brushes. Is this an actual thing, or am I just dense?
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May 3, 2015 03:43
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LordAba posted:Is this an actual thing, or am I just dense? It's not a real thing but it's about the level of BS that GW likes to claim about their hobby tools to justify them being more expensive than everyone elses. At least this generation of brushes has been decent. Still too expensive but good quality. The old ones were garbage and still cost as much as good ones.
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May 3, 2015 03:46
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Actually I've done some research and some experimenting with chrome and getting a chrome finish. The easiest substance I found was this: Just use this stuff if what you're using it on is tiny. http://www.c1-models.com/c1-metalizer/ It's inexpensive and that kit will last for like ever he reallly sends you a shitload. I still haven't run out of it. Practice with it first though and wear a respirator. It just requires a super high gloss, like the glossiest glossy you can buy then polish it some for a smooth surface , then apply then buff , done. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 03:56 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 03:47
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LordAba posted:Is this an actual thing, or am I just dense? I was joking, but I wouldn't put it past GW to market them in this way. JoshTheStampede posted:They literally just made a brush for each category of paint they make, even if they don't need one. There's no loving reason to have a separate brush for glazes. I'm pretty sure the Small Base, Medium Layer, and Medium Glaze are all the same brush. I don't know, like JoshTheStampede says, the newer brushes aren't bad. Considering you'll be able to pick them up for 20% off retail online also makes them a pretty decent deal - $6.40 per brush? berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 14:28 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 14:25
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Hollismason posted:Actually I've done some research and some experimenting with chrome and getting a chrome finish. The easiest substance I found was this: Sounds like I'm not going to be doing this, and just using metallics and inks instead!
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May 3, 2015 14:26
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Started playing with my gravity feed airbrush this morning. It's sooo good, though I am only at the using it for basecoats stage. Makes the whole thing go so quickly.
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May 3, 2015 14:38
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signalnoise posted:Alright suggestion time. I'm going to paint up my Dropzone Commander PHR like Skynet Terminators and my Resistance like they're from the Resistance from the new Terminator movies. I'm thinking for the PHR I do chrome with dark inking in recesses and red lights, maybe using a wash made from P3 Coal Black. Any suggestions on how to make a convincing chrome paintjob? If you are looking for something that is easy and gives a good effect, then I did this with the Vallejo Model Air range metallics. One coat of "Gungrey 71.072" followed by "Aluminium 71.062". You could then add a few light coats of gloss and I'm sure it would look decent. 
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May 3, 2015 14:44
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I've been busy this past week.      Still unbased, but I'll get to that when I can get my hands on some Martian Ironearth. Current project, another Razorback hull and a pair of Heavy Bolter turrets. Yes I'm aware the turret ring is on the 'wrong way' around, that's how I got it and the fucker's been built with plastic glue. Also, as a bonus, some Grey Knights I've been working on for a friend:          Pretty simple tabletop standard stuff. Yeah, I'm also aware the barrels haven't been bored and some of the dudes have terminator heads; that's how I got them and that's how I painted them. (My OCD is literally killing me now) Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 15:14 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 15:11
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reposting this question, it got lost in the recent mix of GW brushes and very cool picture posts: krushgroove posted:Question for people that paint their bases separately: how do you handle gaps under the feet of models you put on the bases? Constant retouching, or just use CA glue to fill the gaps? Basically I want to 'progress' to using wires and cork bottle stops to paint infantry, paint bases separately and glue them together after they're both painted. Just curious what the usual steps are to do this for you guys that paint lots of infantry models.
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May 3, 2015 18:05
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Mostly I use a thick gel-consistency gap-filling CA glue or epoxy to attach the models to the bases. A lot depends on the base and mini, though; it's a lot easier to base well on a flat base with a flexible mini like a Bone, than to base on a bumpy, convex, or concave surface with a metal mini. But then, I'm not a very good painter, so take that with a pinch of salt 
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May 3, 2015 18:25
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I do bases separately but for particular models, not "100 random bases". That is, I mark the space where the model's feet will rest and leave it without sand and other random basing stuff. Correcting gaps later isn't a big problem.
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May 3, 2015 18:33
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If I'm doimg normal sand + ballast, I wait for the pva to semi set then gently press the mini down onto the base to form a little countour. Well that's how I do it when I care. It does look better but normally not enough for me to bother with for rank and file troops.
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May 3, 2015 18:37
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OK, cool, I'll experiment a bit (and find some thicker CA glue) - mainly I want to avoid 'floaty' feet as well as 'sunken' feet, don't know why I didn't think of pressing the feet into the basing material.
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May 3, 2015 18:42
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I painted my Grey Knights' and Tyranids' bases separately. If you have relatively flat smooth bases, like my geeks, you can just get by by leaving enough smooth terrain to glue the feet onto. More elaborate bases, with plenty of basing material, like my nids , your best bet is to press the mini into the basing material before it's set, leave behind good sockets to glue the feet onto.
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May 3, 2015 19:00
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krushgroove posted:OK, cool, I'll experiment a bit (and find some thicker CA glue) - mainly I want to avoid 'floaty' feet as well as 'sunken' feet, don't know why I didn't think of pressing the feet into the basing material. Floaty feet and glue mishaps over painted models, including glue clouding, are exactly why I don't paint bases separately. Especially since a lot of models I end up doing some greenstuff work around the feet or have to do some creative gluing to get them on a base in the first place. I like being able to cover up all that messy work with greenstuff/primer/paint work. I'd be singing a different tune for large dioramas or what have you but normal one-man-one-base stuff I just do all assembly and basing other than like, static grass or water effects before priming.
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May 3, 2015 19:14
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I hear ya, and for paved or truly flat bases (like the space ship decking bases I certainly will, eventually, finish and make molds from) I would definitely paint separately then glue afterwards. But usually I glue the bases on the feet, paint the model then base with sand and paint, which results in sunken foot syndrome.
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May 3, 2015 19:46
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krushgroove posted:I hear ya, and for paved or truly flat bases (like the space ship decking bases I certainly will, eventually, finish and make molds from) I would definitely paint separately then glue afterwards. But usually I glue the bases on the feet, paint the model then base with sand and paint, which results in sunken foot syndrome. I use Vallejo Black Lava paste instead of glue/sand when I'm not using resin bases. The grains are a bit finer and the paste shrinks when it dries, so the sunken foot syndrome isn't as pronounced, I don't notice it on most minis.
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May 3, 2015 19:51
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I just pay an extra 70 cents per model for resin bases 
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May 3, 2015 19:52
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Just put a little strip of plasticard under the feet if you dont want them to look like they sunk. Also every single one of my sand based mans has sunken feet, and no one has noticed 
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May 3, 2015 19:54
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