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Squidder posted:I think I'm gonna be stuck sending it to Teledoorbell, there's absolutely no extra space to add anything or go with the slightly bigger speaker. I did email the FBELE peeps to see if they still make the 45ohm version, so I'll wait and see what they have to say. Thanks for trying, I'll let you guys know what they have to say. A last ditch effort would be to ask in the electronics megathread here in DIY. They might be able to come up with something. Also, I found a few of those FBELE parts on alibaba.com. Even if you did have to order the minimum of a thousand parts, it would still be cheaper than the $90 that Teledoorbell wanted. edit: here you go! Cannibalize one of these: http://www.shopvalcom.com/valcom/paging-equipment-26013-Valcom-V1072AST-Doorplate-Speaker-V1072AST.html kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:16 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 02:55
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With Tesla selling home Li-Ion batteries, is the idea you charge at night with cheap electricity, and power your house in the day with the battery, thus lowering your cost, or does that not make sense? Is sposed to couple with solar so you have 24 hr power?
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May 3, 2015 19:39
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1or both, yes.
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May 3, 2015 21:12
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Squidder posted:I have a Teledoorbell intercom system and the outside speaker is shot. It's a 50 mm 45 ohm mylar speaker. Anyone know where I can find one? It's like the unicorn of speakers, I'm having no luck so far. Looks awfully similar to a headphone driver. Maybe ask around at head-fi or one of those headphone enthusiast sites.
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May 4, 2015 15:39
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At the local art center an air compressor is used for spraying glaze on pots. The sprayer works at 45psi and there is no bladder on the compressor so you have to spray in short bursts. Because the psi is quite low, and the volume is low, is there a cheap bladder to build? Can I just build a bladder out of 4" pvc with some check valves?
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May 4, 2015 18:47
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:At the local art center an air compressor is used for spraying glaze on pots. The sprayer works at 45psi and there is no bladder on the compressor so you have to spray in short bursts. Because the psi is quite low, and the volume is low, is there a cheap bladder to build? Can I just build a bladder out of 4" pvc with some check valves? You mean an air tank? Yeah, that's a big no on PVC. It turns into shrapnel when it (eventually) goes. I'm sure you can find a free junk pancake compressor around easily and simply use the (properly built for the purpose) tank from that.
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May 4, 2015 18:49
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:At the local art center an air compressor is used for spraying glaze on pots. The sprayer works at 45psi and there is no bladder on the compressor so you have to spray in short bursts. Because the psi is quite low, and the volume is low, is there a cheap bladder to build? Can I just build a bladder out of 4" pvc with some check valves? 2L soda bottles can do 45 PSI all day long, especially if you wrap them in dust-tape (mostly for UV & abrasion shielding). They're cheap & plentiful. Alternately, old fire extinguishers, old grill propane tanks (that have been disassembled and filled/emptied completely with water to flush propane), mounted car tires, and really anything else can be used to hold 45 PSI.
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May 4, 2015 18:58
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Mercury Ballistic posted:With Tesla selling home Li-Ion batteries, is the idea you charge at night with cheap electricity, and power your house in the day with the battery, thus lowering your cost, or does that not make sense? It *sort* of makes sense. http://rameznaam.com/2015/04/30/tesla-powerwall-battery-economics-almost-there/#UpdatedCost quote:Here are two (make that three) ways we can calculate the LCOE of the Tesla Powerwall.
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May 4, 2015 19:05
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Phanatic posted:It *sort* of makes sense. That's an excellent analysis, except I think they've underestimated the installed cost a bit; 30%-40% is probably closer (for example, SolarCity is advertising $5000 installed), so more like 17 cents per kWh. It doesn't make sense (yet) for the average American, but it is impressively close. Solar installs without net-metering agreements are still priced well beyond (battery + panels should be in the 35-40 cents per kWh LCOE) what makes sense in almost any part of the U.S. Hawaii Electric is probably making GBS threads itself right now; for the rest of the country this is just a POCO wakeup call - grid defection is very close to being viable, and if they don't rethink how they run as a business right now they'll be dead within 30 years. POCO's that listen to that wakeup call should be able to offer incentives in excess of that $0.17/kWh, at least in some areas. With a 3.3 kW peak draw, $1500/kW is below the installed cost of almost any grid-scale storage (even pumped hydro), and distributed storage also relieves load on distribution systems. So far, this has only been leveraged in small scale pilots, but the mainstream draw of Tesla's batteries could make a big difference there.
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May 4, 2015 20:17
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kid sinister posted:A last ditch effort would be to ask in the electronics megathread here in DIY. They might be able to come up with something. I got a reply from FBELE, they said to order 1 part I'd need to contact Teledoorbell. So I called Teledoorbell back and they're going to send me 2 new speakers for $5. Apparently they didn't offer me this choice right off the bat because ~reasons~, who knows. Guess I had to prove my worth or something. Thanks to everyone that dug stuff up, I really appreciate it!
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May 4, 2015 23:10
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Squidder posted:I got a reply from FBELE, they said to order 1 part I'd need to contact Teledoorbell. So I called Teledoorbell back and they're going to send me 2 new speakers for $5. Apparently they didn't offer me this choice right off the bat because ~reasons~, who knows. Guess I had to prove my worth or something. All the dialog options aren't opened up until you talk to ALL the NPCs on the quest.
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May 4, 2015 23:18
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:All the dialog options aren't opened up until you talk to ALL the NPCs on the quest. Be sure to unstack the speakers before you turn in.
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May 4, 2015 23:28
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Be sure to unstack the speakers before you turn in. And remove all party members before beginning the dialogue.
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May 4, 2015 23:33
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thespaceinvader posted:Can anyone suggest a means of treating mould on the underside of my sofa? We had some damp issues last year, and when it was being removed the other day I noticed a good bit of mould on the underside - it's a constucting with a lifting lid at one end, and the mould is on the particle/chip board underside of that box. I got bottom-paged and buried under interesting discussions about speakers - any ideas on this? If not, I'll just go with 'paint it with benzalkonium chloride, let it dry, wipe it. We're also moving the sofa to a hopefully-less-damp location.
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May 5, 2015 17:07
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thespaceinvader posted:I got bottom-paged and buried under interesting discussions about speakers - any ideas on this? If not, I'll just go with 'paint it with benzalkonium chloride, let it dry, wipe it. If it's unpainted, I'd think you could do the same thing you do to the underside of roof sheathing-- 1/2 cup of bleach in a gallon of water, scrub what you can off, then let the bleachwater dry on.
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May 5, 2015 17:15
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Ta, I'll give that a try.
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May 5, 2015 19:54
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Last year my AC condenser stopped working. I changed the capacitor myself, and had a professional come out and change the fan motor. At the time he did not change the fan, and I recall him mentioning that it was shaking a bit, but he did something and brought it back and said that would fix it for a while. I guess a while has come, because my condenser isn't working again. The motor is fine, obviously, but the fan itself was cock-eyed, with one side sticking up so that it would hit the top grill and the other side sitting down on some of the wires, effectively lodging it. I did not think to get a picture of that. I took the top off and here's how the fan looks:  and here's how it looks when I manually hold the fan up  I'm assuming I need a new fan. Should I attempt it myself--it seems easy enough, but I don't want to gently caress up any of the wiring the guys did last year. Also, any time I look up "how to change fan" I get instructions on how to change the motor.
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May 6, 2015 02:00
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Palisader posted:Last year my AC condenser stopped working. I changed the capacitor myself, and had a professional come out and change the fan motor. At the time he did not change the fan, and I recall him mentioning that it was shaking a bit, but he did something and brought it back and said that would fix it for a while. It's not too hard, the only tricky part will be to make sure the new blades have the same angle-- the motor is expecting a certain amount of load and airflow to operate efficiently and cool itself. Also if the condenser has a cowl that the fan sits in, the new one will need to be at the same height as close as you can get it otherwise you might induce turbulence that could reduce airflow and or create undesirable vibrations. If you have a grainger in town they have a pretty wide selection http://www.grainger.com/category/condenser-fan-blades/fan-blades-and-propellers/hvac-and-refrigeration/ecatalog/N-jra Also if you have trouble getting the old center of that fan off, PB blaster works wonders.
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May 6, 2015 02:18
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Qwijib0 posted:It's not too hard, the only tricky part will be to make sure the new blades have the same angle-- the motor is expecting a certain amount of load and airflow to operate efficiently and cool itself. Also if the condenser has a cowl that the fan sits in, the new one will need to be at the same height as close as you can get it otherwise you might induce turbulence that could reduce airflow and or create undesirable vibrations. Yup, grainger is where I bought the capacitor last year. Will I need to get any additional parts, or does the center mount and everything come with the fan?
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May 6, 2015 02:34
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Palisader posted:Yup, grainger is where I bought the capacitor last year. Will I need to get any additional parts, or does the center mount and everything come with the fan? you'll need a new hub, just bring in your old one to match the needed diameter.
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May 6, 2015 02:39
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I've got this water hammer that seems to be coming from the laundry room. I'm assuming cold water too, as there's a brand new expansion tank installed for the hot water. The hammer happens pretty much whenever water is used anywhere in the house, intermittent thuds separated by at least a few seconds. Are those little water hammer arrester things made for laundry likely to help, or what should I be looking at here?
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May 6, 2015 05:41
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baquerd posted:I've got this water hammer that seems to be coming from the laundry room. I'm assuming cold water too, as there's a brand new expansion tank installed for the hot water. The hammer happens pretty much whenever water is used anywhere in the house, intermittent thuds separated by at least a few seconds. Are those little water hammer arrester things made for laundry likely to help, or what should I be looking at here? Is this something that just started happening or has it been ongoing? If it's happening on every faucet in the house, I would be suspect of the water pressure. Fixtures usually like 40-60psi.
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May 6, 2015 17:08
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sirr0bin posted:Is this something that just started happening or has it been ongoing? I just moved in a month ago or so, didn't notice until after moving in of course. Haven't noticed any particular water pressure issues, definitely doesn't seem too high, maybe a little on the low side. I'm 100 yards from a water tower.
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May 7, 2015 01:33
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baquerd posted:I just moved in a month ago or so, didn't notice until after moving in of course. Haven't noticed any particular water pressure issues, definitely doesn't seem too high, maybe a little on the low side. I'm 100 yards from a water tower. You should quantify that with a water pressure gauge before going though a bunch of things that could be quite time consuming or expensive.
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May 7, 2015 01:50
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Motronic posted:You should quantify that with a water pressure gauge before going though a bunch of things that could be quite time consuming or expensive. Thanks, I'll get one and report back, looks like those are  cheap.
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May 7, 2015 04:08
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Does anyone know what this light socket that is over my bathroom mirror is called? It has no serial/model number or anything on it. It's 31.5cm long. The (long lost) tube that was in it had connectors on the side of the tube (like, at 90 degrees to the length of the tube) that fit in the large sockets at either end of the mount.  Feel free to laugh at me if this is a super common light fitting where you are. I'm in Australia and this is the only one I've ever seen.
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May 7, 2015 10:26
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I'm looking for some cheap/free software to sketch up and design cat towers and some furniture, something that could allow me to print up a blueprint to have something to blankly stare at and scratch my rear end while I 'work'. Any suggestions of software that you have used in the past?
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May 7, 2015 13:47
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GotDonuts posted:I'm looking for some cheap/free software to sketch up and design cat towers and some furniture, something that could allow me to print up a blueprint to have something to blankly stare at and scratch my rear end while I 'work'. Any suggestions of software that you have used in the past? What you're looking for is literally called "SketchUp". http://www.sketchup.com/ Edit: There's also FreeCAD, I guess. http://www.freecadweb.org/ KillHour fucked around with this message at 13:55 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 13:49
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AlphaDog posted:Does anyone know what this light socket that is over my bathroom mirror is called? It has no serial/model number or anything on it. It's 31.5cm long. The (long lost) tube that was in it had connectors on the side of the tube (like, at 90 degrees to the length of the tube) that fit in the large sockets at either end of the mount. There were a surprising amount of bathroom fixtures made with practically custom tubes specific to that manufacturers designs, it is probably not worth your while to try and find one unless you're in love with the fixture. I'd just replace it.
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May 7, 2015 14:29
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Sketchup looks awesome, thanks for the help!
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May 7, 2015 15:48
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Autodesk Fusion 360 is also free if you claim you're a student.
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May 7, 2015 18:53
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AlphaDog posted:Does anyone know what this light socket that is over my bathroom mirror is called? It has no serial/model number or anything on it. It's 31.5cm long. The (long lost) tube that was in it had connectors on the side of the tube (like, at 90 degrees to the length of the tube) that fit in the large sockets at either end of the mount. Wow, that's an odd one. That looks like it takes some type of double ended halogen bulb. Their wattage is linked to their length though. A ~300mm one would be around 1500W, which would be absolutely blinding over a bathroom mirror, so maybe not a halogen. I don't suppose you have any other of those fixtures in your place do you? What about your neighbors? You could maybe get a better look at an existing bulb, maybe even take it down to the store and match it up. edit: After looking at it again, I get the feeling that it's missing pieces. You might definitely want to check out a neighbor's fixture just to see if anything is missing. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:49 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 19:44
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Safety Dance posted:Autodesk Fusion 360 is also free if you claim you're a student. Autodesk Fusion 360 is also a humongous piece of crap and fairly unfriendly to people new to CAD anything. Sketchup all the way for newbies and non-high-precision stuff.
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May 7, 2015 21:01
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Qwijib0 posted:I'd just replace it. kid sinister posted:Wow, that's an odd one. Thanks! Yeah, "replace the fitting" is the next option. The tubes aren't available in the local hardware store or supermarket, but I haven't checked any electrical places or lighting specific stores yet. This morning, a dude on facebook told me it's an incandescent "Linestra" lamp like this one: http://www.ebay.it/itm/Lampadina-Linestra-LAES-35W-osram-Attacco-Doppio-con-2-Attacchi-30-cm-tipo-neon-/200590134563 and gave me a couple of places to look that might have them. Apparently they were never common here and it's surprising to see one. If there aren't any tubes sold here any more, I'll just replace it, yeah. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 02:38 on May 8, 2015 |
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May 8, 2015 02:33
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AlphaDog posted:Thanks! Yeah, "replace the fitting" is the next option. The tubes aren't available in the local hardware store or supermarket, but I haven't checked any electrical places or lighting specific stores yet. Wow. For what it's worth, you could get an LED replacement for it. http://www.buylighting.com/Linestra-Light-Bulbs-s/132.htm
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May 8, 2015 02:47
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kid sinister posted:Wow. For what it's worth, you could get an LED replacement for it. http://www.buylighting.com/Linestra-Light-Bulbs-s/132.htm Electrical place didn't have any, but they knew a place that did and sent me there. That place told me that in Australia you can't get the incandescent ones any more so I have the LED replacement for $40. The Mrs is happy and I didn't have to wire anything, so I'm calling this a win.
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May 8, 2015 07:14
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AlphaDog posted:Electrical place didn't have any, but they knew a place that did and sent me there. That place told me that in Australia you can't get the incandescent ones any more so I have the LED replacement for $40. The Mrs is happy and I didn't have to wire anything, so I'm calling this a win. Also, you'll probably never have to replace it again.
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May 8, 2015 16:05
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So a couple years ago I had a basement man-cave room remodeled into an office. The old floor was commercial tile over cutback glue straight to the slab. Some asbestos remediation was needed  . For cost, I decided to go with VCT (vinyl composition tile, i.e. grocery store tile) to replace it, and had read *somewhere* that the old cutback glue should be removed with mineral spirits before putting down modern clearset glue.The flooring subcontractor disagreed, said that the clearset would go over the cutback no problem, and since the other subs had been pretty decent, I trusted him. Here are some glamor shots of what is happening at the tile joints now:   At first it was a couple of spots here and there, but now whenever it stays wet outside for a couple of days and the slab sucks up more moisture than normal, 1 to 3-inch puddles of clearset+cutback mixture will erupt from the floor sometimes when I step on a tile that doesn't see much traffic, and the little quarter-inch spots will just spontaneously pop up wherever they feel like. I'm planning on talking to the contractor about this, but I was wondering what the goon prognosis was for my floor. Is this something that can be fixed with the tiles in place, are we going to have to redo the whole floor, or will this eventually stop happening and I'm just being a big sissy? Also, I'm a bit concerned that the cutback glue might be impregnated with asbestos. It doesn't seem friable, even where the spots have dried out, but is a thing that people really did? The house was built in 1968 if that helps, though the old tile could have been installed pretty much any time between then and, say, 1980.
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May 8, 2015 19:37
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AlphaDog posted:Electrical place didn't have any, but they knew a place that did and sent me there. That place told me that in Australia you can't get the incandescent ones any more so I have the LED replacement for $40. The Mrs is happy and I didn't have to wire anything, so I'm calling this a win. The US is like that too now. Stores can't buy incandescent bulbs to sell them here anymore, but stores can sell their existing stock. Stores knew this ban was coming, so they massively stocked up. I could see why they wouldn't bother stocking specialty bulbs like that though. I could see this as a problem in the future for certain fixtures even with regular sockets where you just can't cram the fat base of a CFL or LED bulb in there.
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May 8, 2015 21:14
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Only standard screw base incandescent bulbs were banned; weird specialty bulbs are generally still legal.
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May 8, 2015 22:14
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