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RZA Encryption posted:midi out?! lol didn't even notice that on first glance, although I'd assume that's MIDI IN (so you can hook up a keyboard to program your sick jams into your game).
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May 4, 2015 19:03
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RZA Encryption posted:midi out?! That would be even more amazing. Maybe it's MIDI in? And you would, like, I dunno; hook a MIDI keyboard up to it to program the music? I know nothing about programming. I'm telling you the SNES CD is going to be unearthed in someone's basement in 2032
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May 4, 2015 19:03
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Heran Bago posted:This controller is loving amazing. I found one like it for a Super Famicom about a month back.
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May 4, 2015 19:05
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midi in makes sense, but one can dream. so does it only have mono out?
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May 4, 2015 19:06
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yeah, double post. this thing needs to be on this page too.
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May 4, 2015 19:07
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It's input not output. That particular unit is configured for music composition to where you would input sound samples via the RCA jack and then use a midi controller to make banging choones.
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May 4, 2015 19:08
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Phantasium posted:I found one like it for a Super Famicom about a month back. I have the Genesis version and it's pretty awkward.
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May 4, 2015 19:08
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:That would be even more amazing. Maybe it's MIDI in? And you would, like, I dunno; hook a MIDI keyboard up to it to program the music? I know nothing about programming. It's pretty standard for composers at that sort of level to do all of their music work on keyboard, it's a lot faster and easier if you're good at it. A few of my friends were scary-good at piano/keyboard and could effortlessly play any song without sheet music and also composed by just "jamming" on the keyboard and seeing what came out. That output then gets fed into a computer and if they hosed up a note or two they'd go in and manually correct that (or just record over what they did).
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May 4, 2015 19:09
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dobbymoodge posted:It definitely takes some finesse. There's an entire industry of specialized plastic welding tools and techniques, but I've gotten good results with my soldering iron and not much else. This reminds me of another method I used to patch up holes in cases of C64s. (people just love to drill holes into them to attach switches and other stuff) I took similar-colored plastic from old power supplies, dissolved them in acetone until they turned into a lumpy mass and patched the holes up that way. The plastic will eventually turn hard again, then you can carefully sand it down to remove any wild irregularities until it is one smooth surface. If the surface of what you are patching up has a special texture to it like old plastic cases sometimes do, you can take a plaster cast from a non damaged area of the same case, soften the area you just sanded down with some acetone and then press the cast into it. I have stolen that trick from people restoring old car armatures. If you didn't know where to look you couldn't tell there used to be a hole. It is rather impossible to attach something like hooks that way though. It can also be really hard to hit the right color tone with the replacement plastic you have, especially considering how weathered such old plastic cases usually are. This method might also work in prettying places up you have molten together like above. You need to be very careful with the acetone as to not melt places you don't want to melt. Also of course - well ventilated area and gloves. I hope that goes without saying. Bel Monte posted:That's the kind of guide I need on cleaning. Good information, and also lets me know what I should and shouldn't probably bother with. I have a thread over here I don't update because I am a lazy bum: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3676512 Even if it's a computer threa people with broken consoles can feel free to come over there and ask for repair advice and I'll try my best. (even though my background is more computers) If you can, bring schematics and a list of tools you have at your disposal. If you can't bring schematics, bring high-res pictures of the PCB. Always happy to help in getting something running again. Trigger warning: Excessively verbose posting. 
Police Automaton fucked around with this message at 19:19 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 4, 2015 19:13
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Bel Monte posted:
Don't use the dishwasher for anything you're likely to see in a retro system. I imagine near-boiling water at high pressure would destroy most electrolytic capacitors, batteries, relays, optoisolators, transformers, etc. Also it would be really difficult to make sure the interior of any connectors are sufficiently dry, or the *tiny* gap under SMT electrolytic caps. I just restored a Saturn that had a serious amount of cola dried up on all the PCBs except the power supply. I cleaned the shielding and case in the kitchen sink. I spot-cleaned the laser assembly with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol. For all the connectors, ribbon cables, and PCBs I used rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush, and when needed a rubbing alcohol bath. I used 70% isopropyl which you can get at the grocery store, and was careful to pat dry with a paper towel immediately after cleaning and then after the boards had sat for > 30 minutes. This got rid of most of the residual water, which stays behind after the isopropyl evaporates. Then I blew out any crevices/gaps that might trap water, and let the boards sit overnight before I put it all back together. If you want to be more risk-averse, use a more concentrated isopropyl solution, such as tape head cleaner, which tends to be >90% isopropyl (though read the bit about plastics a couple of paragraphs down). Rosin flux residue can cause renal toxicity and probably a whole host of other problems, although getting a sufficient amount into your bloodstream to do any damage can be a challenge. I have read anecdotal accounts of workers dying from acute renal poisoning, caused by cleaning flux from boards using trichloroethelyne (brake cleaner)/tetrachloroethelyne-based solvents. Apparently those solvents made the rosin flux very efficient at transdermal transfer, and so a sufficient amount of it was able to get into the worker's bloodstream from what would otherwise be fairly routine exposure. Now you're thinking "I should be wearing gloves." Well, check the permeability first. For example, nitrile gloves: http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaners/contact-cleaners/contact-cleaner-with-silicones-404b/ These won't do poo poo for Trichloroethelyne, but are probably sufficient for isopropyl. Be careful with isopropyl and other alcohols. They can be very aggressive on some plastics, so try to limit the amount and time of exposure for plastic parts (e.g. the labels on electrolytic caps, cables, cartridges, etc.) Perspex/Plexiglas are apparently very susceptible to "crack crazing" caused by alcohol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E. My guidelines are that if it's something that is at a low risk for rusting, clean it with water. If it's the underside of a PCB, drugstore rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. If it's a lens, dampen a swab and wipe it clean with that, then IMMEDIATELY buff with a dry swab to prevent residue deposits. If that doesn't cut it, use a swab with diluted window cleaner and light pressure and patience, and always buff with a clean swab afterwards. If it's a corroded card-edge connector or something like that, I am probably doing it wrong but I use a folded-over bit of office paper, maybe squirt in a bit of this (don't eat it!): http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaners/contact-cleaners/contact-cleaner-with-silicones-404b/ Afterwards, I work the connector, e.g. insert and remove the cartridge a few times. If that doesn't cut it, very high-grit sandpaper used very carefully, and then buff/polish afterwards with folded-over office paper. Water is generally the best choice for all sorts of cleaning, in particular buttons, cases, cable jacketing, etc. Maybe even for the non-component side of a double-sided PCB. But for most electronics, you can get a long way with fairly low risk using just alcohol and a toothbrush. e: the saturn worked after I put it back together, btw. 
dobbymoodge fucked around with this message at 19:30 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 4, 2015 19:27
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Police Automaton posted:This reminds me of another method I used to patch up holes in cases of C64s. (people just love to drill holes into them to attach switches and other stuff) I took similar-colored plastic from old power supplies, dissolved them in acetone until they turned into a lumpy mass and patched the holes up that way. The plastic will eventually turn hard again, then you can carefully sand it down to remove any wild irregularities until it is one smooth surface. If the surface of what you are patching up has a special texture to it like old plastic cases sometimes do, you can take a plaster cast from a non damaged area of the same case, soften the area you just sanded down with some acetone and then press the cast into it. I have stolen that trick from people restoring old car armatures. If you didn't know where to look you couldn't tell there used to be a hole. It is rather impossible to attach something like hooks that way though. It can also be really hard to hit the right color tone with the replacement plastic you have, especially considering how weathered such old plastic cases usually are. This method might also work in prettying places up you have molten together like above. You need to be very careful with the acetone as to not melt places you don't want to melt. Also of course - well ventilated area and gloves. I hope that goes without saying. That seems pretty tricky, but useful. I am the bad person who drills holes in his C64 cases for reset buttons and such things.  Maybe I can ship some of my old cases to you (for systems that have long since died). That would be kind of like atoning for my sins, right?
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May 4, 2015 19:35
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For the first time in my life I'm glad to not have thousands of dollars, otherwise I'd be doing a really dumb thing right about now
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May 4, 2015 19:44
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May 4, 2015 19:51
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i play road rash on ps1 because who cares what the best version is and the 3do has no games other than road rash you can enjoy unironically. also, hardcore gaming 101 isn't that bad, or at least what i've read isn't but i mostly use it if i want to know differences between multiplatform games.
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May 4, 2015 20:07
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dobbymoodge posted:Don't use the dishwasher for anything you're likely to see in a retro system. I admit it is a pretty controversial thing, but the Water in dishwashers normally doesn't go in excess of 85 degrees celsius even in the most intensive programs (you don't need to use) and as long as thin wine glasses will survive the "water pressure", so will a PCB and it's components. As long as it is disconnected from power, it's just an assortment of plastics and metals. That being said, I would not do it every week (alone from the residue the water will leave on the board, water in the dishwasher != pure water) but once for an excessively grungy system is perfectly fine and won't cause any damage as long as you use your head and are aware of places that might trap water over a long time. Residue droplets in ports etc. will just evaporate (and always evaporate) if stored dry for a while. If the water had a way to get into that tiny nook, it will find it's way out again. The bigger problem are places where a relative big amount of water could be trapped which could not evaporate in a reasonable amount of time, but things like that can be avoided with careful planning. There is nothing wrong with a more careful approach to cleaning if you feel that's the safer way though. dobbymoodge posted:Be careful with isopropyl and other alcohols. They can be very aggressive on some plastics, so try to limit the amount and time of exposure for plastic parts (e.g. the labels on electrolytic caps, cables, cartridges, etc.) Perspex/Plexiglas are apparently very susceptible to "crack crazing" caused by alcohol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E. This is very true regarding acrylics. ABS, PVC etc. (plastics you encounter here usually) are not very susceptible to the effects of alcohol though and would need massive, prolonged exposure you will not have under normal conditions. dobbymoodge posted:My guidelines are that if it's something that is at a low risk for rusting, clean it with water. If it's the underside of a PCB, drugstore rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. I would not worry about rusting as long as you don't plan to leave things lying in the water/moist basement for a year. Most consumer items are pretty adequately protected (else they would have corroded many years ago) or are made of materials that don't corrode easily. Again, one pass of cleaning with appropriate drying afterwards will not be enough to have an effect that way. dobbymoodge posted:
Paper alone usually already works very well, I would use a glass fiber pen carefully instead of sandpaper, as with the sandpaper it can be hard to not sand places you don't want to sand. Two to three strokes are usually enough and won't damage the plating. dobbymoodge posted:That seems pretty tricky, but useful. I am the bad person who drills holes in his C64 cases for reset buttons and such things. I haven't made repairs like this in years and probably will never again as I wouldn't drill holes into any of my stuff only to patch it up afterwards. (I'm bored sometimes but not that bored) The chance that I repair something for somebody else again is sadly quite slim as how most communities are these days.
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May 4, 2015 20:15
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Saw this gem in the "people who viewed this item also viewed..." on that SNES Emulator SE Ebay page:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/291452543103
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May 4, 2015 20:38
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I'm the casually placed Saturn development kit.
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May 4, 2015 21:01
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d34dm34t posted:
Its main purpose is to put all 6 buttons in a convenient area (and mapped correctly) so you don't have to reach over to the middle of the game pad with your thumb to hit one of them. I have a 6 button controller for 3DO but the button that should be used for medium punch is actually the pause button, which can't be remapped.
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May 4, 2015 21:23
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You know, for that kind of money, you might as well just buy a SNES and any of the games you want. EDIT: Wait, that's a development kit?
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May 4, 2015 21:44
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mateo360 posted:You know, for that kind of money, you might as well just buy a SNES and any of the games you want. It's more for people who like shiny boxes. It's useless without the software or scsi card for your pc. I'd imagine the PC portion was highly specialized as well so I doubt we'll ever see it in action.
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May 4, 2015 21:48
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I still have a SCSI card in my PC because up until a year ago I was using DLT drives. I think some guy on another forum said he had the software ripped. Let us all chip in and we can ship it to each other on a monthly basis
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May 4, 2015 23:11
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:I still have a SCSI card in my PC because up until a year ago I was using DLT drives. You get to keep it for four months at once if you crank out an SNES game in that time.
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May 4, 2015 23:12
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:I still have a SCSI card in my PC because up until a year ago I was using DLT drives. Typically with the age it requires very specific hardware and not just any SCSI card will work. It is MS-DOS after all.
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May 4, 2015 23:28
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PaletteSwappedNinja posted:I don't know why Eurogamer decided now was the time to interview the guy who made Slap Fight MD (maybe the author just bought a copy and wants to send the price skyrocketing even higher) but I'm glad they did: http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/2015-05-12-death-from-above-the-making-of-slap-fight-md Thanks for this link! A couple weeks ago I spent an afternoon reading most of shmmuplations, specifically the Toaplan stuff, and this compliments it well. flyboi posted:Any idea why a single game would have weird graphical problems? The sprites and everything in-game look fine without corruption just the signal looks wonky. I was reading about SNES enhancement chips the other day, and apparently SMRPG uses the SA1, which is basically an entire additional CPU core running at triple the speed of the SNES itself, along with other upgraded capabilities. Source. Maybe the chip draws extra power to keep itself running? Further down on that wiki page is a list of games that use it, if you have any of them to test.
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May 4, 2015 23:32
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flyboi posted:Well my problem is SMRPG specifically will have random graphic fluctuations in areas with large parts of color on both my SFC and SNES. SFC however also has noise that shows up around the screen and I tried using my Genesis 3-in-1 adapter which didn't fix it. Any idea why a single game would have weird graphical problems? The sprites and everything in-game look fine without corruption just the signal looks wonky. This is pretty typical of power supplies that don't supply enough power to the console, which the "3-in-1" supplies typically don't. What power supply are you using? Do you have that Velleman one to use on the SFC?
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May 4, 2015 23:35
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flyboi posted:Well my problem is SMRPG specifically will have random graphic fluctuations in areas with large parts of color on both my SFC and SNES. SFC however also has noise that shows up around the screen and I tried using my Genesis 3-in-1 adapter which didn't fix it. Any idea why a single game would have weird graphical problems? The sprites and everything in-game look fine without corruption just the signal looks wonky. Are both of your systems 1CHIPs? Some of the later 1CHIPs do not have csync wired up. Only Chrono Trigger and the intro to Yoshi's Island gave me problems; it was the weirdest thing. Very easy fix if this is what you are experiencing.
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May 4, 2015 23:36
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Keyboard Kid posted:This is pretty typical of power supplies that don't supply enough power to the console, which the "3-in-1" supplies typically don't. No it's not a 3-in-1 it's a Trio http://retrogamecave.weebly.com/sega-trio.html which should supply more than enough power as it is a 3A PSU. Even with the Velleman the issue persists. I have other SA-1 games and they do not exhibit this issue, only SMRPG. Uncle at Nintendo posted:Are both of your systems 1CHIPs? Some of the later 1CHIPs do not have csync wired up. Only Chrono Trigger and the intro to Yoshi's Island gave me problems; it was the weirdest thing. Neither system are 1CHIP, both are SNS-CPU-RGB-02 revisions.
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May 4, 2015 23:58
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You are using RGB, right? Can you try it with composite or RF? This will rule out a sync issue.
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May 5, 2015 00:01
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Just to make sure, before I buy the N64RGB board to mod my system, these are the scart cables that I want?
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May 5, 2015 00:02
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Haha the hyperbole on that description quote:This device was bestowed by it’s designers with an almost Apple like simplity, quote:If this unit is the “Holy Grail” of video game collecting, finding the software to run it might be the video game equivilant of releasing excalibur. I think only a master game collector would be up to such a challenge. quote:If you like your game collecting to be gamestop easy, without any challenge, you should probably buy your retro items from gamestop e: quote:A Beautifully Rare Piece of Gaming History idk why but collectorspeak is hilarious to me d0s fucked around with this message at 00:32 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 00:27
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I don't know what a master game collector looks like, but I can kinda imagine what he smells like.
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May 5, 2015 00:40
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Police Automaton posted:I don't know what a master game collector looks like, but I can kinda imagine what he smells like. "Is he good?" "He can beat most men with his breath."
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May 5, 2015 00:51
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Uncle at Nintendo posted:You are using RGB, right? Can you try it with composite or RF? This will rule out a sync issue. With a monster s-video cable the issue gets worse.
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May 5, 2015 01:04
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Wamdoodle posted:Sunset Riders! There's an attract mode that gets me fired up I know Sunset Riders chat was like 3 pages ago, but Sunset Riders Hoodie. 
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May 5, 2015 01:35
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Well that was super strange. I remembered I bought SMRPG JP because I wanted that and Yoshi's Island in JP cases so I pulled out the US cart + PCB. To my surprise it worked fine. So then I opened the cases to find this nastyness: It was even dirtier than that as this was the poo poo that I removed off with a cursory wipe  Ended up swapping the backs with another game (Kirby Super Star) and all the lovely video problems are gone. Didn't think that grounding tab did much but today I learned.
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May 5, 2015 01:50
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flyboi posted:Well that was super strange. I remembered I bought SMRPG JP because I wanted that and Yoshi's Island in JP cases so I pulled out the US cart + PCB. To my surprise it worked fine. So then I opened the cases to find this nastyness: Yep, need that ground to be working since those games have increased power requirements from the specialty chips.
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May 5, 2015 01:52
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So do systems like these generally have good av quality?
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May 5, 2015 01:55
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Nintendo Kid posted:So do systems like these generally have good av quality? The internals are hooked up via composite so no.
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May 5, 2015 01:57
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Baron Snow posted:I know Sunset Riders chat was like 3 pages ago, but Sunset Riders Hoodie. What kind of Sunset Riders clothing doesn't have "Bury me with my money!" printed on it? 
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May 5, 2015 02:18
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Baron Snow posted:I know Sunset Riders chat was like 3 pages ago, but Sunset Riders Hoodie. mary me with myyyy munny flyboi posted:The internals are hooked up via composite so no. It's not RF so it looks good to me.
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May 5, 2015 02:23
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