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signalnoise posted:I just pay an extra 70 cents per model for resin bases I just make and cast my own 
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May 3, 2015 20:35
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I built a Dark Angels army from Dark Vengeance sets for cheap then torpedoed any and all savings I had by buying Dragonforge bases for every loving dude. They look great, but in hindsight I really wish I just based them like my Valhallans. Would've made allying easier too. So it's taken like 6 months since I finished building it, but I finally painted the Land Raider!      
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May 3, 2015 21:08
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Hey guys, I am having some trouble getting a smooth, even, right red on my Khador jacks. I've only ever painted a dark red on cloaks and robes and such, but the jacks have large, wide, flat areas. I feel like no matter how many coats its just looks splotchy and streaky. Short of getting an airbrush, anyone have any tips? This is over a grey primer. I'm currently using thinned scab red > unthinned mechrite red > thinned skarsnik red.
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May 3, 2015 22:09
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I'd recommend priming Army Painter red or Rustoleum ruddy brown. I've also had some luck lately highlighting pink and then glazing red over it. I'll also use a lot of black ink Future washing to get the most out of sculpted details. Painting in damage / wear also helps to break up monotonous colors. Pure red is tricky, since you don't have much of space to highlight or shade in. If you're ok with orange highlights, that opens a lot of working room.
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May 3, 2015 22:46
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SRM posted:I built a Dark Angels army from Dark Vengeance sets for cheap then torpedoed any and all savings I had by buying Dragonforge bases for every loving dude. They look great, but in hindsight I really wish I just based them like my Valhallans. Would've made allying easier too.  Looks good, though I think it could benefit from some chipping and staining to break up all that silver. Are you planning on doing a full IW army, or was this a one off?
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May 3, 2015 22:47
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berzerkmonkey posted:No green-rimmed base and that is the worst Ultramarines paint job I've ever seen... I actually have like 4k of Iron Warriors! They're an army I go back to every once in a while and just do some more stuff for. I wish I did caution stripes on the top to break it up, but the thought of painting yet more yellow made my skin crawl so I stayed away from it.      
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May 3, 2015 23:03
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Super Waffle posted:Hey guys, I am having some trouble getting a smooth, even, right red on my Khador jacks. I've only ever painted a dark red on cloaks and robes and such, but the jacks have large, wide, flat areas. I feel like no matter how many coats its just looks splotchy and streaky. Short of getting an airbrush, anyone have any tips? This is over a grey primer. I'm currently using thinned scab red > unthinned mechrite red > thinned skarsnik red. I'd normally say start your basecoat with a mid to dark brown, you'll have much more fun that way.. but you're priming in grey so I'm not really sure how I'd go about it.
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May 3, 2015 23:09
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Super Waffle posted:Hey guys, I am having some trouble getting a smooth, even, right red on my Khador jacks. I've only ever painted a dark red on cloaks and robes and such, but the jacks have large, wide, flat areas. I feel like no matter how many coats its just looks splotchy and streaky. Short of getting an airbrush, anyone have any tips? This is over a grey primer. I'm currently using thinned scab red > unthinned mechrite red > thinned skarsnik red. White or bone basecoat -> VGC Red Ink -> Carroburg Crimson Then do a thin layer of your pure red color on the wide areas and finish by darkening the edge of the panels with a very thin application of a dark brown wash (MIG dark, secret weapon armor, Vallejo Smoke, GW Agrax, etc). El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 23:45 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 23:39
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SRM posted:I wish I did caution stripes on the top to break it up, but the thought of painting yet more yellow made my skin crawl so I stayed away from it. You could always just tape off sections and hit it with a yellow primer/spraypaint. It's a cheap and easy way to get a consistent, flat yellow color. Bonus: if you painted the silver first, you could then do the hairspray chipping effect.
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May 4, 2015 03:24
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You should be proud of that streak free and perfect metallic coat.
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May 4, 2015 04:22
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SRM, that is beautiful work. Especially that chromed-up Land Raider, I swear it looks like you could see your reflection in it. As for sunken foot syndrome, when you consider the average model in 40K that's not really that big of an issue. As long as you're not glopping a quarter of an inch of sand down there, well, a Marine in powered armor is big and heavy enough that they -should- sink a little bit into sand and the like.
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May 4, 2015 04:40
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Slimnoid posted:You could always just tape off sections and hit it with a yellow primer/spraypaint. It's a cheap and easy way to get a consistent, flat yellow color. I've done that before, and I used masking tape for the caution stripes on the tank already. It just took like... 6 coats of Averland Sunset. I should've probably based that area brown first, but c'est la vie. MasterSlowPoke posted:You should be proud of that streak free and perfect metallic coat. 
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May 4, 2015 05:02
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I purchased this model and would like to paint the plain brown plastic kit to look something like this. Any advice on what primer would work best, or general advice on how to get that nice wood grain look?
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May 4, 2015 15:32
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Hey Guys, i'm gonna try coating my first models, is this the right stuff to go for? 400ml Surface Primer Grey
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May 4, 2015 15:55
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No - avoid primer. You're going to get a grainy texture that will look like crap at this scale. Just get some flat white/black/gray and you should be all set. I'm sure some UK Goons can recommend a good brand for you - in the US, I'd recommend Krylon Flat. To go into more detail, primer has particles in the paint that give the base coat some "tooth" or grab. Paint prefers to stick to a surface that is slightly rough, and primer does that well for walls, autobody, etc. At a smaller scale though, you don't need all of that texture to get a good grip.
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May 4, 2015 16:54
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berzerkmonkey posted:No - avoid primer. You're going to get a grainy texture that will look like crap at this scale. Just get some flat white/black/gray and you should be all set. I'm sure some UK Goons can recommend a good brand for you - in the US, I'd recommend Krylon Flat. Good catch thanks for that, i've seen this on element games, hows this? Plastic Soldier Company Spray - German Panzer Grey
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May 4, 2015 17:16
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by.a.teammate posted:Good catch thanks for that, i've seen this on element games, hows this? I've found this to be the best primer you can buy by a long shot. Tamiya fine surface primer, light grey.
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May 4, 2015 17:22
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Picking a Crisis suit from awhile ago back up. Pic. The purple is less bright in person. Old pic and I really need to set up a lightbox. Haven't done anything to the mini since then. Linked because the pic is big and I can't be assed to resize it at work. Definitely need to break up the purple. I'm thinking making parts of it white, hellish as that might be to pull off. Planning to put grey on then paint white over that. Any flaw with that methodology, or alternative coloring suggestions? I think the white/purple will end up really nice.
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May 4, 2015 17:37
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by.a.teammate posted:Good catch thanks for that, i've seen this on element games, hows this? I've never used that, but it or the Tamiya big_g recommended should work. The Panzer Grey is specifically used as a primer and basecoat, similar to the Army Painter sprays. If you're just going to paint a different color over the top, you're better off getting a larger can of basic flat spray from your local DIY store. OP recommends Halford’s Grey Primer as a good paint if you're in the UK.
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May 4, 2015 18:55
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Esser-Z posted:Picking a Crisis suit from awhile ago back up. Pic. The purple is less bright in person. Old pic and I really need to set up a lightbox. Haven't done anything to the mini since then. Linked because the pic is big and I can't be assed to resize it at work. Small areas of white are easiest to do by going from a light grey to white. Way I like to do it is use Celestra Grey / Astronomican Grey - a pale bluish grey - to block out the white areas. Try to get in a single smooth thin coat - if that doesn't cover enough, wait until it's absolutely dry and then give it a second thin layer of the stuff. Use a small brush to carefully wash areas like panel lines and the surroundings of rivets - you basically want just definition in the deeper sections - then highlight it with Ulthuan Gray. UG is a nice slightly bluish, very light, almost white gray. Finally, give the very edges a fine line highlight of pure white. Alternatively, you could go from a light brownish color to white - say, Ushabti Bone for the first color, then a wash of Seraphim Sepia into the panel lines and the like. Highlight with Screaming Skull and white mixed at about 1:1, line highlight with white. Going from a bluish grey to white leaves a cold, clean, sterile-looking white, the kind that I think is more appropriate for Tau and the like. Brown to white looks more worn, muddy and dirty. Up to you what kind of a style you want to go for. For actual content, this is how it looked this morning  And this is how it looked a couple of hours ago:  Left is the first Razorback hull with the new HB turret, right is the new second RB hull. I'll probably slap on a couple of transfers to number these - make them easier to tell apart on the table - and call 'em done. Although I am tempted to order in a couple of IG chimera dozer blades to spice them up. Next up, dual Kheres Contemptor, AKA Chucky! Edit, uh, OCD demands I point out the feet on that Crisis Suit are the wrong way around - you're supposed to glue them so that the tiny little toe that doesn't reach the ground is on the inside, like so. Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 19:38 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 4, 2015 19:34
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What are the kids using these days for a chipped paint effect? I know Charadon Granite was all the rage, but since you can't get it anymore, what is the alternative?
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May 4, 2015 20:16
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A medium grey or a metallic grey of any sort is fine. Browns and red brown are good for rust. Remember that less is more. You can also go all in with real chips. Google "Hairspray Chipping" or "Salt Chipping" effects.
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May 4, 2015 20:44
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How much extra track do you get with the Rhino kit? I want to make myself a mini Sicaran Razorback.
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May 4, 2015 20:44
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berzerkmonkey posted:What are the kids using these days for a chipped paint effect? I know Charadon Granite was all the rage, but since you can't get it anymore, what is the alternative? http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/05/my-replacement-for-charadon-granite.html Vallejo Game Colour Heavy Charcoal is considered a match on the Dakkadakka paint range, but some say it's apparently closer to adeptus battlegrey; the comments in the link offer some suggestions and impressions, so maybe pick up Thornwood and Heavy Charcoal and see which is closer to what you want.
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May 4, 2015 20:45
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I used a shiny metallic for paint chips on a land raider some time ago. I wouldn't recommend it, it only looks right when the light hits from certain angles e: The land raider in question  
Hixson fucked around with this message at 20:55 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 4, 2015 20:51
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Sauer posted:A medium grey or a metallic grey of any sort is fine. Browns and red brown are good for rust. Remember that less is more. You can also go all in with real chips. Google "Hairspray Chipping" or "Salt Chipping" effects. Slimnoid posted:http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/05/my-replacement-for-charadon-granite.html Hixson posted:I used a shiny metallic for paint chips on a land raider some time ago. I wouldn't recommend it, it only looks right when the light hits from certain angles
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May 4, 2015 20:54
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Scorched brown/Rhinox hide , small highlight of whatever your highlight colour is, small bit of silver in the middle if it's a large chip Works on pretty much any paint scheme
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May 4, 2015 21:18
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HardCoil posted:How much extra track do you get with the Rhino kit? I want to make myself a mini Sicaran Razorback. Not at all, I'm afraid. If I recall correctly, the Predator sprue comes like, one or two extra track shoes you can glue on as stowage or the like.
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May 4, 2015 21:49
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Thanks, Drake! Mind, I don't use GW paints, but I can look 'em up and get something similar! I've got enough projects going on that I can sit on this until I get more colors; I'm still pretty new and contsantly expanding my paints. I'm a bit lacking in highlight/shading, er, shades!
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May 4, 2015 22:07
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Super Waffle posted:Hey guys, I am having some trouble getting a smooth, even, right red on my Khador jacks. I've only ever painted a dark red on cloaks and robes and such, but the jacks have large, wide, flat areas. I feel like no matter how many coats its just looks splotchy and streaky. Short of getting an airbrush, anyone have any tips? This is over a grey primer. I'm currently using thinned scab red > unthinned mechrite red > thinned skarsnik red. P3 paints has a Khador Red Base color that I used on some jacks recently. Many of the red paints are semi-opaque, whereas base colors are generally more solid. I had fantastic results with the Khador Red Base. Additional upside, they've got a Khador Red Highlight color that's excellent and color matched to the particular red shade of the base paint. If/when I do red again for other models, I'll likely use the P3 base color instead of primer because it went over black primer *really* well. and the colors came out great. PM me if you'd like to me to take a few pictures of the models.
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May 4, 2015 22:33
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Esser-Z posted:Thanks, Drake! Mind, I don't use GW paints, but I can look 'em up and get something similar! I've got enough projects going on that I can sit on this until I get more colors; I'm still pretty new and contsantly expanding my paints. I'm a bit lacking in highlight/shading, er, shades! Happy to helpo! And yeah, highlighting is one of those things that looks difficult at first, but it's simple once you get a handle on it. Most of the time I go with a simple three-to-five step paintjob - base everythiong with the correct colors, wash the whole mini with a single appropriate wash, clean up everything with the base colors again, highlight with a thin layer of a slightly brighter color, line highlight with a second brighter color. Apathetic Fish on YouTube has good step-by-step tutorials I like to adapt for a given color scheme, like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRCWHT4okIU this one. The biggest thing you need to remember when painting light colors - particularly white, yellow, red and the like - is that less is more. You don't want to glop on a single thick layer, it'll be all streaky and chalky - you want to build up the color in multiple thin layers of appropriately thinned paint. Also, using the appropriately colored primer can make things so much easier - if I paint something with a desert camo pattern, I'll start with priming it sandy yellow, and so on. One pain in the rear end less to worry about.
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May 4, 2015 22:40
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berzerkmonkey posted:I saw that, but I thought the Thornwood was a little too green for what I wanted to use it for. The Heavy Charcoal also seems pretty green, judging by the chips online (though of course, that isn't really a good indicator.) I suppose I'll order a bottle and see how it looks. I was hoping to get double duty out of it - chipping on vehicles and helmet color for my Steel Legion. I use Heavy Charcoal for "Things that I want to appear black but still have some sense of shading" like leather. I think it is pretty neutral as far as hue goes, I've certainly not noticed it looking green. So hopefully that works out for you. (My quick-and-easy black leather is: Heavy Charcoal base, wash with Nuln Oil, reblock main raised areas with HC, then highlight with VGC Cold Grey (and then maybe tinier brighter highlights with something lighter if I want it to look shiny/wet)
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May 5, 2015 00:25
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berzerkmonkey posted:No - avoid primer. You're going to get a grainy texture that will look like crap at this scale. Just get some flat white/black/gray and you should be all set. I'm sure some UK Goons can recommend a good brand for you - in the US, I'd recommend Krylon Flat. If the models are plastic, this is fine advice - spray paint will stick just fine. If they are metal or resin, I would really recommend a primer - In addition to having tooth it also bonds with the surface to some degree, and regular paint sometimes will have a hard time sticking to metal or resin - if regular paint stuck fine you wouldn't need a primer coat to begin with.
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May 5, 2015 00:30
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berzerkmonkey posted:What are the kids using these days for a chipped paint effect? I know Charadon Granite was all the rage, but since you can't get it anymore, what is the alternative? A more important question is- what kind of color are you trying to chip? You want different colors of chip depending on the base color. For yellow and white, as an example, P3 BloodStone is really good. For black it doesn't look good at all.
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May 5, 2015 00:34
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Too simple?
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May 5, 2015 01:11
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signalnoise posted:Too simple? Nothing wrong with keeping things simple I say. Looks good to me.
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May 5, 2015 01:21
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JoshTheStampede posted:If the models are plastic, this is fine advice - spray paint will stick just fine. If they are metal or resin, I would really recommend a primer - In addition to having tooth it also bonds with the surface to some degree, and regular paint sometimes will have a hard time sticking to metal or resin - if regular paint stuck fine you wouldn't need a primer coat to begin with. Personally, I've never had a problem with regular spray on metal. I've never used an actual primer - but I suppose if you're starting out, you can experiment and see what works best for you. BULBASAUR posted:A more important question is- what kind of color are you trying to chip? You want different colors of chip depending on the base color. signalnoise posted:Too simple?
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May 5, 2015 01:25
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berzerkmonkey posted:Get some highlighting/glassy effect on the red and it will look really good. Why does it look like the paint is peeling off the top of the rear cockpit area? Probably for the same reason there's a thumbprint on the bottom of it. My plan is to scrape that part off, varnish, and repaint it, since none of it's highlighted yet.
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May 5, 2015 01:48
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signalnoise posted:Too simple? I would add some red lines to the back, like future-barcode looking things. Added bonus, you can then incorporate that in as squad markings. EDIT: Or really darken the vents and the lines between the plate, just to break up the silver a bit.
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May 5, 2015 01:51
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I finished up some more units for warmaster in middle earth this past month. I was going to save the half trolls for this months oath thread since I was doing them in yellow skin but I had a lull last week and really wanted to start them so just went for it. 220 10mm easterlings. The guy that made these didn't do bowmen unfortunately so just a variety of melee infantry. Still need to do banners for them.  These are half trolls, made from 15mm copplestone Picts. Next to lake town soldiers for scale, and with 28mm lord of the rings urukai, half troll and hill troll for scale in the back. Was fun going through miniatures to find things that fit the look and made a good scale match. Thanks for the suggestions on doing obsideon earlier in the thread. The gloss coat really sells it.
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May 5, 2015 02:14
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