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mcgreenvegtables posted:To be fair, doesn't PVC primer also come in clear? Yes, but in most areas it's basically a specialty item because the AHJ wants to SEE that primer was used or you don't pass the inspection that obviously never happened here.
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May 6, 2015 15:21
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It's the latest green standards for brown-water irrigation system. Totally legit and approved by LEED.
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May 6, 2015 15:21
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Javid posted:
Air conditioner drip tube... watering the tree I guess? I love that greyish (conduit maybe?) T in the middle where they just pointed the open end up so it won't pour out 
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May 6, 2015 16:13
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edit: oh, that tee. Zhentar fucked around with this message at 17:44 on May 6, 2015 |
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May 6, 2015 17:05
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Second picture
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May 6, 2015 17:22
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Looking at that first picture again, it looks suspiciously like a washer drain hose. This could be an attempt to limp along on a dodgy septic system by offloading a bunch of gray water from the system.
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May 6, 2015 17:31
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Motronic posted:Looking at that first picture again, it looks suspiciously like a washer drain hose. It does but that's a hell of an angle. It has a dip in it so I'm thinking sump pump outlet. And that tee could be an admittance, but likely what was in the garage. I cannot notice any barrier to the outside where the window is open.
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May 6, 2015 18:10
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Motronic posted:Looking at that first picture again, it looks suspiciously like a washer drain hose. Also voting washer drain hose. You can see the top of the short water heater; there's another 4' to the floor...though sump pump can't be ruled out I have personally witnessed the washing machine setup several times in rural areas, complete with bubble pond at the terminus 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 20:30 on May 6, 2015 |
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May 6, 2015 20:28
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Looking again I think the hose meets the pipe via a downspout elbow.
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May 6, 2015 20:58
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Javid posted:
Washing machine discharge. e:efb
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May 7, 2015 00:35
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PainterofCrap posted:I have personally witnessed the washing machine setup several times in rural areas, complete with bubble pond at the terminus I may or may not have one of these at the far edge of my neighbor's property.....which his washing machine may drain into as well  (my house used to be his brother's house and the gray water stuff is all tied together. Even after installing a new goddamn $20k septic system I didn't see any particular need to change how the washer drain was piped when the inspector didn't catch it......and I have a good neighbor so fuckit)
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May 7, 2015 00:49
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Magnus Praeda posted:You're assuming they bothered to use glue? I can see the glue in the pictures so yes.
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May 7, 2015 06:49
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Folks, don't exceed the wattage limits on your light fixtures. This is from a 60-YO 2-headed desk lamp. I had rewired it when my wife bought it nine years ago. To be fair, they aren't marked, but I had put in a 40-W and a 5-W. She had 2- sixty-watt bulbs. She had been complaining that the bulbs burnt out quickly. Today one of the bulbs parted from it's base when she tried to change it & kept using it with the globe dangling loose from the bare leads  Like most people, my wife is not home-maintenance smart. I explained that she needs to look at the wattage on the bulb before replacing them. Now it's off for new ceramic sockets... (edit) stuck a 4w/40W LED in one side & a 40W chandelier bulb in the other. When she's not looking I'll change that one to an LED as well  The 40W easily throws as much light as the 60W incandescent. Directed beam helps. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:12 on May 8, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 13:48
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Replace them once with 60W equivalent CREEs and never have that problem again
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May 7, 2015 22:07
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I have been wondering about that, if using LEDs that draw below the fixture's watt rating but produce way over the fixture's expected lumens output (because it assumes a traditional incandescent rated for X watts) was okay. Seemed like the math would be okay as long as the heat byproduct was acceptable; a 58w LED in a 60w fitting sure is nice and bright, and turns out to make almost zero heat.
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May 7, 2015 23:07
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Fixtures are rated solely by watts drawn, because that is nearly entirely heat output. An LED drawing an actual 40 watts could probably be used as an anti aircraft searchlight.
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May 7, 2015 23:14
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Splizwarf posted:I have been wondering about that, if using LEDs that draw below the fixture's watt rating but produce way over the fixture's expected lumens output (because it assumes a traditional incandescent rated for X watts) was okay. Seemed like the math would be okay as long as the heat byproduct was acceptable; a 58w LED in a 60w fitting sure is nice and bright, and turns out to make almost zero heat. Should be perfectly alright unless the fixture is black and absorbing all that extra light, or something. Even then, probably fine. And yes, an LED actually producing 40 watts of light would be about like a laser producing 40 watts of light, assuming the same rough beam pattern. Look the gently caress out unless you want your retinas blasted and your curtains on fire.
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May 7, 2015 23:14
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40 Watt LEDs are available for use as street lights. Here is a 40 Watt work light. I bet that thing is bright as gently caress. That's actually a pretty drat good price for a ruggedized, water-resistant outdoor work light, too. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:20 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 23:17
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Yeah what you want is equivalent brightness, not equivalent wattage. 
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May 7, 2015 23:26
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White LED lights around 15% efficient right now, I think. That's improving over time, but they're only slightly better than CFL. To output 40 watts of actual light you'd need about 15 100 Watt incandescents or 30 60 Watt incandescents.
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May 7, 2015 23:31
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Leperflesh posted:40 Watt LEDs are available for use as street lights. Yeah, my 18 watt (150mA draw max at 120Vrms) work light is quite literally brighter than my 500 watt halogen the same size. It's insane, and I love it, but I actually kept the halogen one to use in the winter because it's nice to be able to warm my hands up on it every few minutes
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May 7, 2015 23:33
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I have a Chinese 40w chip as the white half of the LED array on my aquarium. It hangs about nine inches off the surface, and the tank is ~2 feet deep. That, and two rows of nine (18 total,) 3w royal blue emitters. I have to turn the white down a bit, or it tends to bleach corals out. LEDs are fun! 
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May 8, 2015 00:53
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SynthOrange posted:Yeah what you want is equivalent brightness, not equivalent wattage. Nah, I want my rooms as bright as I can get 'em. 
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May 8, 2015 07:32
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This was posted in the GIF thread in PYF, and I figured you all would find it amusing: http://i.imgur.com/lFbhpYp.webm
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May 8, 2015 07:45
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C.M. Kruger posted:This was posted in the GIF thread in PYF, and I figured you all would find it amusing: Water pressure test... Passed!
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May 8, 2015 13:57
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I genuinely dislike the lack of natural white light that LEDs have. Have they fixed that or are you still dealing with huge chunks of the spectrum missing?
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May 8, 2015 14:38
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Wasabi the J posted:I genuinely dislike the lack of natural white light that LEDs have. Have they fixed that or are you still dealing with huge chunks of the spectrum missing? Just like with CFLs there's a wide range of color temperature choices available. I personally can't tell the difference in light color between the Cree "soft white" (2700K) LEDs and the generic incandescent bulbs that were in the house when I moved in.
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May 8, 2015 14:50
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Wasabi the J posted:I genuinely dislike the lack of natural white light that LEDs have. Have they fixed that or are you still dealing with huge chunks of the spectrum missing? The nice thing about LEDs is you can combine as many different wavelengths as you'd like by including the appropriate diodes. I have 40W and 60W "soft white" equivalents all through the house and I honestly can't tell the difference between them and incandescents (unlike CFLs).
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May 8, 2015 15:01
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flosofl posted:The nice thing about LEDs is you can combine as many different wavelengths as you'd like by including the appropriate diodes. I have 40W and 60W "soft white" equivalents all through the house and I honestly can't tell the difference between them and incandescents (unlike CFLs). Not really. White LEDs are actually blue LEDs plus a phosphor that converts some of the blue to other wavelengths. The more expensive high quality ones will have higher quality phosphors with more complete spectral coverage.
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May 8, 2015 15:04
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DNova posted:Not really. White LEDs are actually blue LEDs plus a phosphor that converts some of the blue to other wavelengths. The more expensive high quality ones will have higher quality phosphors with more complete spectral coverage. Incidentally, this is also how LCD TVs work. So a high quality phosphor should give out a complete enough spectrum to be able to reproduce the entire ITU-R BT.709 gamut. 
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May 8, 2015 15:36
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C.M. Kruger posted:This was posted in the GIF thread in PYF, and I figured you all would find it amusing: That one isn't that bad. It just has to be pushed back on and a set screw needs tightening near the underside base.
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May 8, 2015 15:46
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Wasabi the J posted:I genuinely dislike the lack of natural white light that LEDs have. Have they fixed that or are you still dealing with huge chunks of the spectrum missing? At every single Home Depot I've been to recently they have floor displays of LED bulbs where you can look at the color temps, if there's one near you you should go check it out. I've slowly converted all my bulbs to LED, the living area ones are "warm" and stuff like the closet that I don't really give a gently caress about is the cheaper "traditional ugly blue." I'm just amazed that they cost like, $15-$30 each but are warrantied for twenty one loving years. By the time it burns out I'll be 45 and it will be the cyberpocalypse anyway. My mind can't wrap around the fact that light bulbs just... don't... burn out... anymore. Crazy 
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May 9, 2015 02:24
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Are LEDs significantly more shock-resistant than normal bulbs? The cat loves to knock my lamp over, and normal bulb replacements are getting expensive.
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May 9, 2015 02:29
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Are LEDs significantly more shock-resistant than normal bulbs? The cat loves to knock my lamp over, and normal bulb replacements are getting expensive. Most Feit and Cree bulbs are shatter resistant.
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May 9, 2015 02:32
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Thanks for buying into the conspiracy to take away our god given incandescents. 
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May 9, 2015 02:33
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SynthOrange posted:Thanks for buying into the conspiracy to take away our god given I'm the one killing the planet and heating the house.
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May 9, 2015 02:35
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I'm guessing it depends a lot on the brand, but I've dropped one a couple times on a tile floor trying to install it in an overhead fixture and it still works. The bulb itself is made of shatter-proof-feeling plastic and all the electronics seem to be very solidly attached to the heavy metal frame on the base to maximize heat dissipation so I'd imagine it could take way more of a beating than a filament bulb or CFL could. EDIT: For reference I mostly have Cree and GE bulbs of several different shapes and designs and they all feel pretty solid, but ymmv Shame Boy fucked around with this message at 02:38 on May 9, 2015 |
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May 9, 2015 02:35
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Are LEDs significantly more shock-resistant than normal bulbs? The cat loves to knock my lamp over, and normal bulb replacements are getting expensive. The crees are glass with a rubber coating, so they will spiderweb if you drop them but glass pieces won't fly off and it'll still work.
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May 9, 2015 02:39
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KillHour posted:Incidentally, this is also how LCD TVs work. So a high quality phosphor should give out a complete enough spectrum to be able to reproduce the entire ITU-R BT.709 gamut. That's kind of misleading. A TV only needs red, green, and blue to cover the gamut. They tend to have pretty uneven spectrums. The problem is that real materials have complex responses to different wavelengths of light. You have to hit them with lots of different frequencies to get the right color, even if you later sort those frequencies into three buckets.
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May 9, 2015 03:01
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:At every single Home Depot I've been to recently they have floor displays of LED bulbs where you can look at the color temps, if there's one near you you should go check it out. I've slowly converted all my bulbs to LED, the living area ones are "warm" and stuff like the closet that I don't really give a gently caress about is the cheaper "traditional ugly blue." I'm just amazed that they cost like, $15-$30 each but are warrantied for twenty one loving years. By the time it burns out I'll be 45 and it will be the cyberpocalypse anyway. My mind can't wrap around the fact that light bulbs just... don't... burn out... anymore. Crazy A couple years ago my wife and I visited Longhorn Cave State Park in the Texas Hill Country. A few years ago, they converted the whole lighting system in the cave to LEDs, now they don't have to have people crawling down caves constantly changing bulbs, the LEDs also don't heat the place up and cause condensation and moss growth near the lights.
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May 9, 2015 03:38
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