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j3rkstore posted:Just off the top of my head you could try thinning out the mash a bit by increasing the water/grist ratio, mashing longer and oxygenating with pure o2. My friend is doing most of the work. His controls and equipment is a lot better than mine. He has both a 96qt cooler and a 120qt cooler brewing 5 gallon batches - using the 120 for his bigger beers to keep his ratios decent. He also uses an oxygenation wand per the instructions. Yeast starters on a stir plate (he's read at least 2 books on yeast and has a pretty good grasp on it). I don't have numbers on his water:grist ratio, but he's aware of the general accepted ratios. If there's any problem there, his mash is probably too stiff - I have the opposite problem with BIAB, but that's another story.
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May 6, 2015 20:03
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I was mainly asking to get more info on mash duration and any temperature steps, obviously a higher temp mash will result in more unfermentables.
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May 6, 2015 20:07
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Jo3sh posted:STC-1000 or the newer ITC-1000. Check eBay. You can get the STC-1000 for $15-17 and another $15-20 in parts and a little wiring gives you a heat/cool controller. The ITC is the same, but reads in both F and C (STC is C only). How do you feel about the ones that just plug in-line with the power cable? Like this Johnson Controls one: http://www.homebrewing.org/Johnson-Controls-Refrigerator-Freezer-Thermostat-Digital-Temperature-Controller_p_2473.html
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May 6, 2015 20:12
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j3rkstore posted:I was mainly asking to get more info on mash duration and any temperature steps, obviously a higher temp mash will result in more unfermentables. I've brewed with him half a dozen times and he's hitting his targets. We worked up a few recipes together so his DIPA recipe is like a 150 Mash / 156 Sparge (or close enough). He's been doing this long enough and he's made some great beers - it's only when we started trying to make high gravity beers that we had this specific problem. Reading up just now, I'd almost put my money on the water/grist ratio now. Scarf posted:How do you feel about the ones that just plug in-line with the power cable? Like this Johnson Controls one: http://www.homebrewing.org/Johnson-Controls-Refrigerator-Freezer-Thermostat-Digital-Temperature-Controller_p_2473.html I have one of these and I like it a lot.
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May 6, 2015 20:17
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robotsinmyhead posted:Reading up just now, I'd almost put my money on the water/grist ratio now. Consider doing 2 mash/sparge cycles. Also consider swapping some base grains for DME or LME (this could be problematic since you can't control the fermentability here). Definitely getting a higher water to grist ratio will help. Hard for those enzymes to get to all the sugars without enough liquid to float around in.
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May 6, 2015 20:30
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robotsinmyhead posted:Odd question that I can't get a good answer too with Googling: In addition to the above, consider dropping mash a few degrees (148 maybe), waiting until peak kraussen to add corn sugar (as a simple syrup), and really ramping temps up at the end of fermentation. My most recent DIPA was 1.008 vs. previous batches with the same yeast at about 1.014 or higher.
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May 6, 2015 20:37
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Scarf posted:How do you feel about the ones that just plug in-line with the power cable? Like this Johnson Controls one: http://www.homebrewing.org/Johnson-Controls-Refrigerator-Freezer-Thermostat-Digital-Temperature-Controller_p_2473.html I'm sure it's awesome, but it's $84. I mean  but I'm happy to save the $40 and buy some malt with it. Also, that one's only a single channel (cool *or* heat, not both)
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May 6, 2015 20:48
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Jo3sh posted:I'm sure it's awesome, but it's $84. I mean Mine can heat or cool. You have to swap a jumper on the inside iirc? It's in the manual and not hard to do - but I might have a different model with that same design.
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May 6, 2015 22:13
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Something horrible happened with an extract cream ale I did a few weeks ago. It tastes....chemical-y? I'd never used extract before, what is going on there? Also does anyone have a suggestion for a good lawn mower/patio beer? Preferably something around 5% and widely palatable.
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May 6, 2015 22:24
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robotsinmyhead posted:Mine can heat or cool. You have to swap a jumper on the inside iirc? It's in the manual and not hard to do - but I might have a different model with that same design. Wait what? It's got a single power cable, don't you have to split something at some point for that to work? Regardless of whatever alchemy you're referring to, $20 in parts ($10 of that which you might very well already have) can make you a dual-power unit. Plug the freezer into one end, a fermwrap (or like heating device) into the other, and you're all set. I'm a drat idiot when it comes to wiring stuff and I managed to slap a pair of these things together.
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May 6, 2015 22:28
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bewbies posted:Something horrible happened with an extract cream ale I did a few weeks ago. It tastes....chemical-y? I'd never used extract before, what is going on there? It's nothing to do with it being extract based. Is it a plastic or rubber taste? That could be chlorine/chloramines in your water, most counties add more to the water supply as it heats up. Just a friendly reminder to everyone campden tablets cost like $2 for a multi-year supply. Crush 1/2 a tab in your mash water and 1/2 a tab in your sparge water and never worry about chlorine or chloramines again.
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May 6, 2015 22:29
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Jo3sh posted:STC-1000 or the newer ITC-1000. Check eBay. You can get the STC-1000 for $15-17 and another $15-20 in parts and a little wiring gives you a heat/cool controller. The ITC is the same, but reads in both F and C (STC is C only). https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p wattershed posted:Wait what? It's got a single power cable, don't you have to split something at some point for that to work? Sounds like it's switchable between a heat mode and a cool mode, not that it can do both at once,
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May 6, 2015 22:35
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Jo3sh posted:I'm sure it's awesome, but it's $84. I mean I bought this one recently that's a whole lot cheaper. The instructions aren't great but it does work quite well.
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May 6, 2015 22:38
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wolrah posted:Sounds like it's switchable between a heat mode and a cool mode, not that it can do both at once, That's exactly it. The Johnson unit (heh) can heat *or* cool, with reconfiguration needed to switch. The STC-1000 can control both a heating and a cooling circuit without reconfiguration. I put two outlets on the back of my build (just like most of the builds you'll see around the 'net), one wired for cooling, where I plug in the fridge; and the other for heating, where I plug in a reptile heater when needed. Ranco makes a two-channel unit, and I imagine Johnson does as well, but they are kinda up there in .
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May 6, 2015 22:39
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I have two STC-1000's. One for the fermentation freezer that has one outlet hooked up to the freezer (for cooling) and another outlet hooked up to a reptile heating pad put inside the freezer (for heating). The other STC-1000 is used for the keezer, so no need for heating. Building an STC-1000 is a little bit of wiring, but is super geeky and very rewarding when you are done. See that feeling of I did it.  Also, that's the spirit of home brewing to me. Trying to make everything yourself.
LaserWash fucked around with this message at 22:49 on May 6, 2015 |
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May 6, 2015 22:44
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robotsinmyhead posted:Odd question that I can't get a good answer too with Googling: Depending on the grain bill that's not that bad attenuation for beer that big, if you keep it low on the crystal/Carmel malt you can have a good dipa. Sugar helps and I've never noticed any off flavors from it, even as much as 20%. Good advice has been given already; pitch lots of healthy yeast with nutrients (servomyces is supposed to be really good but I haven't tried it), mash long and low and use 02. The only other thing I can think of is that I've noticed much better attenuation from 2-3+ gen yeast. Also, reusing fresh yeast lets you pitch gigantic amounts of very healthy yeast for super cheap.
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May 6, 2015 23:06
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Jo3sh posted:That's exactly it. The Johnson unit (heh) can heat *or* cool, with reconfiguration needed to switch. The STC-1000 can control both a heating and a cooling circuit without reconfiguration. I put two outlets on the back of my build (just like most of the builds you'll see around the 'net), one wired for cooling, where I plug in the fridge; and the other for heating, where I plug in a reptile heater when needed. Ahhh ok, I'm understanding it now. Ok cool, def think I wanna go that rout. thanks!
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May 6, 2015 23:08
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LaserWash posted:
This. I don't know what it is, but when I have people over who haven't had my beer before and I show them my fermentation chamber and the STC controller I set up, people get this glazed mix of confusion and admiration on their face. I much enjoy that.
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May 7, 2015 00:50
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Anyone have a link to the project box they used for something like this, or know what kind of dimensions I should be looking for on one?
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May 7, 2015 01:36
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I used a Radio Shack one about 5x7x3 inches. There was plenty of room.
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May 7, 2015 01:40
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wattershed posted:Wait what? It's got a single power cable, don't you have to split something at some point for that to work? Misunderstanding - that temp controller can be connected to a device that heats or cools and can be set to "enable" the device to either turn on when the temp is high or low. It doesn't enable a fridge to warm up above ambient or a heater to cool things down. In cool mode, it enables a cooling device (fridge, chest freezer, ac unit) to turn on when the temperature goes above a set point. In heat mode, it turns on when the temperature drops below a set point. In my application, I have it in "Cool" mode which turns the fridge on when the temperature runs over my set temp for fermentation. The outside ambient temperature (this fermentation chamber/fridge is in an outdoor garage) has to be above that or the system fails. Also, I put the probe in a big jug of water to ballast the temp changes when you open the door. robotsinmyhead fucked around with this message at 02:00 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 01:41
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Scarf posted:Anyone have a link to the project box they used for something like this, or know what kind of dimensions I should be looking for on one? I've made a couple with this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BSRIO/
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May 7, 2015 02:35
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Awesome, thanks!
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May 7, 2015 02:43
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robotsinmyhead posted:Misunderstanding - that temp controller can be connected to a device that heats or cools and can be set to "enable" the device to either turn on when the temp is high or low. It doesn't enable a fridge to warm up above ambient or a heater to cool things down. Oh, I know how it DOES work, I have two of those as well, rock-solid pieces of hardware. Just thought you were performing some heretoforth unknown hack of that unit to get some extra performance out of it.
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May 7, 2015 05:54
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Let's just say you had the terrible problem that your kegs were full, five or six of your carboys were empty, and you had two months off from work. 1.) What would you brew to serve in the summer? (Thinking something like Michael Tonsmeire's 'Merican Saison recipe - http://tinyurl.com/ohp7g4h) 2.) What would you brew to serve for the winter? (Thinking I want a real smooth, somewhat hoppy Russian Imperial Stout) 3.) What would you brew to serve in the event you wanted to save something for a really special day like a wedding waaaaaaaaay in the future? (probably a sour of some kind) Also, does someone have a Blonde Ale recipe that is super smooth, maybe with a little bit of hop character, that would be good for throwing peaches on after primary? I need to order sometime this weekend and want to pay for shipping (hopefully) once.
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May 7, 2015 14:41
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LaserWash posted:Let's just say you had the terrible problem that your kegs were full, five or six of your carboys were empty, and you had two months off from work. I'd make whatever for Summer. I'd Make Internet Celebrity's RIS for winter. and a barley-wine for the wedding cause your gonna get drunk anyway (it's the only way to survive). Get the free shipping from more beer.
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May 7, 2015 14:45
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I'd Make Internet Celebrity's RIS for winter. Link? Does he have a brewtoad or beer smith account where I can look at the recipe?
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May 7, 2015 15:02
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LaserWash posted:Link? Does he have a brewtoad or beer smith account where I can look at the recipe? This is what I have form my notes but it may be a few numbers off. It was my secret santa gift 2 years ago. Ingredients Units for 3 gallons: 7.5 pounds of Marris Otter Malt 1 lbs chocolate malt 1 lbs roasted barley 1Lb Wheat DME .5 lbs Crystal 40L 4 ozs Lactose Hops 1oz Northern brewer Leaf Hops - 60 min 1oz Goldings Pellet - 30 min 1oz Northern brewer Leaf Hops - 15 min 1oz Goldings Pellet - 3 min Yeast : Safale US-05
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May 7, 2015 15:29
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LaserWash posted:Let's just say you had the terrible problem that your kegs were full, five or six of your carboys were empty, and you had two months off from work. 2.) American Barleywine 3.) Flanders Red
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May 7, 2015 15:51
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LaserWash posted:Link? Does he have a brewtoad or beer smith account where I can look at the recipe? Here you go https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/straightjacket-stout If I were to brew it again I'd probably sub out a pound or two of the base malt for flaked barley because somehow it just didn't have enough body. I'd also add some more hops throughout the boil and shoot for 90ish IBU.
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May 7, 2015 16:07
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internet celebrity posted:Here you go I had one bottle that made it to 5 months or so and it was awesome.
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May 7, 2015 16:33
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j3rkstore posted:1.) Kolsch I have a cream ale going now for pretty much the same result.
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May 7, 2015 16:42
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internet celebrity posted:Here you go Super! I think I'm going to start with this as my base recipe - including the 2 pounds of flaked barley in exchange for the maris and I'll probably hit it with an ounce or two of Magnum for IBUs (possibly taking out that first hit of Northern Brewer). LaserWash fucked around with this message at 18:28 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 18:26
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rockcity posted:Can you explain why it makes no sense? Honestly, that sounded like a perfectly reasonable explanation to me. There is a healthy yeast cake going and if it's down at the bottom in it, it's very likely half of it will be sitting in that yeast cake and preventing better contact with the beer. Again, I have no experience oak aging anything, but that explanation sounded plausible to me and you have provided zero reason to believe otherwise aside from saying he's an idiot. It's about exposure, movement, and the size of the yeast cake - as well as the time spent inside the fermentor. For the sake of the argument, let's say he's 100% correct. So what? You dangle the oak in there with floss of all things and create more surface because... why? It takes less time? The only reason I could see why you'd want faster extraction was if you were oak aging an IPA or... hefe maybe? I'd prefer a slower extraction so I knew when it was done, or if I was out of town for a period of time and didn't want oak sawdust. I mean, I'm sure he's partially right. If it sank flat on the bottom, didn't move, and the yeast flocculated HARD. Let's also not forget it's wood so it's going to float (up until they are impregnated). Oak has a density of .07g/cm^3 whereas beer will always have a density above that number (usually between 1.020 and .999 g/cm^3). You may look at weighting it if you want the "full contact", but I've never run into the issue. It is easier to have it on a line to remove when it's 'oaked' enough, but I have a seriously had time imagining a circumstance where trub would be so thick and dense that it would impede infusion to the point of being the only reason why you suspend it the liquid. The only way is you've got a thicker liquid on the bottom, as in your beer settled into different layers of viscosity, but oak flavor will have no trouble infusing due to particles touching it. I may carry a bit of chip on my shoulder due to local homebrew stores spouting half-facts all the time. So, I'm sure he's a perfectly fine fellow.
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May 7, 2015 18:30
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Jacobey000 posted:It's about exposure, movement, and the size of the yeast cake - as well as the time spent inside the fermentor. Thanks, that's basically the explanation I was looking for. I don't want to age it too much because it's a saison, but I didn't want yeast possibly coating it and it not working effectively. I plan to soak it for a couple days in Chardonnay so there's a chance it will be saturated enough to not float. I'll probably try to suspend it somehow just to make removal easier. He seemed reasonably knowledgeable and knew a fair bit about the saison yeasts so I was taking his word on it. One of my other stores is owned by the exact type of guy you're talking about though. He gives poor to mediocre advice and most of the time he gives you whatever answer will get you to buy your poo poo and leave faster.
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May 7, 2015 19:03
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In my experience just a couple days will not be enough to saturate the wood. I had a wood spiral soaked in port for 2 weeks before I threw it in secondary and it floated the entire time it was there. I have another oak spiral in my lambic that took 3 months to sink.
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May 7, 2015 19:26
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There's probably no practical/legal/cheap way to get full CO2 canisters shipped to me right? I badly need one (got a cider and a beer acting all lonely in my keezer) but the only supply store in the area is 9-5 M-F and there's basically no way I can take time off to exchange. e: Maybe I can bribe a friend who has a job with non standard hours to do it
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May 7, 2015 19:48
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Every place I've ever seen gas bottles for sale only ships them empty. Maybe the local gas supply will take pity on you and drive their delivery truck by your home or place of business and do the swap that way? Otherwise, yeah, you pretty much have to go to the supplier to fill/swap.
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May 7, 2015 20:17
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Josh Wow posted:It's nothing to do with it being extract based. Is it a plastic or rubber taste? That could be chlorine/chloramines in your water, most counties add more to the water supply as it heats up. *half the homebrewers I talk to voice* Eh, that's too much work. I just collect all my water through an RV filter that I never replace and then leave it in buckets for 3 days before I brew. Saves me so much time. Can't figure out why everything tastes like bandaids though, better throw out my mash tun, it's obviously got an infection. Seriously, why is everyone afraid of Campden?
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May 7, 2015 21:08
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Adult Sword Owner posted:There's probably no practical/legal/cheap way to get full CO2 canisters shipped to me right? I badly need one (got a cider and a beer acting all lonely in my keezer) but the only supply store in the area is 9-5 M-F and there's basically no way I can take time off to exchange. Maybe you can use one of those crowdsource services like where people pick up your dry cleaning?
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May 7, 2015 21:11
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