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Finally broke down and bought a compressor for the airbrush that I got during the Black Friday lightning deals, and shot a couple of coats of primer on all the parts for my gun carriages. It's certainly a lot nicer than dealing with trying to get a smooth coat when brush painting. I also put one carriage together for fitment testing, and to use to make a jig so that all of them go together with the same angle/size. Here is the test carriage on deck with a gun barrel laid on it for fitment testing. works out almost perfect, but I need to make a slightly thinner quoin for the gun elevation so I can actually push it in a little bit. They get a bunch more little details after they are painted and assembled too, this isn't nearly 'complete', but it's the full size for making sure it was the right height for the gun ports.  Here are the parts for the rest of the carriages after priming with a penny for scale. I actually only need 6 for the model, but they come in packages of 4, so I've got 2 extra's. After I cut out the parts, I still have to sand off the edges for laser char before assembly, but I think I'm going to spray the main paint coat on while they are still like this, as my primer spray onto the assembled carriage really didn't come out very well, so the parts need to be painted before assembly.  And here is the new compressor.  Oh, I also got this last week:  The blue thing is a mechanical pencil for scale. Yes, it's a tiny little 3-axis mill. 
The Locator fucked around with this message at 06:39 on May 11, 2015 |
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May 11, 2015 06:34
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Space Jam posted:I'm into my 5th model after getting back into modeling after well over a decade. It's a Trumpeter BMP-1P. gently caress individual track links. Oh my god. My Maus still doesn't have tracks because I made the mistake of cutting links from the sprue before painting them and now it's an even bigger pain in the rear end.
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May 11, 2015 11:09
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Blue Footed Booby posted:My Maus still doesn't have tracks because I made the mistake of cutting links from the sprue before painting them and now it's an even bigger pain in the rear end. I put some tape, sticky side up on a paper plate and stick the links on to the tape to paint them, it works pretty well.
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May 11, 2015 16:36
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Well, I finished a little something recently, too. I/72 Kettenkrad represent:   The kit comes with a solid or clear engine cover - I choose instead to do my own grille.  
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May 11, 2015 21:13
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Wow those are tiny!
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May 11, 2015 21:16
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May 12, 2015 01:23
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Sauer posted:I made it that big because I have a pair of F-101 Voodoos I'll turning into CF-101s in the near future and they're huge.
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May 13, 2015 02:48
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Nebakenezzer posted:Well, I finished a little something recently, too. I/72 Kettenkrad represent: 1/72 kits are cute as hell.  This armour car in 1/72 was my first ww2 model kit, and it got me hooked: 
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May 13, 2015 07:47
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The Locator posted:Oh, I also got this last week: That is awesome! I had no idea you could get such a small mill. I've been dreaming of a hobby room setup for when I get my new joint, and that is drat sexy. That 1/72 car is awesome too. I'm just trying to do a 1/72 DH.88 Comet as my first at that scale, and holy cow it's small. Also I now understand why everyone is down on airfix - it is an awful kit.
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May 13, 2015 12:33
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Sanguine posted:That is awesome! I had no idea you could get such a small mill. I've been dreaming of a hobby room setup for when I get my new joint, and that is drat sexy. At least in 1/72, a lovely kit is over sooner!
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May 13, 2015 13:02
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Sanguine posted:I'm just trying to do a 1/72 DH.88 Comet as my first at that scale, and holy cow it's small. Also I now understand why everyone is down on airfix - it is an awful kit. That's just about the worst kit Airfix still produce - the mould's from about 1950 or something. New Airfix are actually pretty good. e: it's 1957. Unkempt fucked around with this message at 13:39 on May 13, 2015 |
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May 13, 2015 13:37
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lilljonas posted:1/72 kits are cute as hell. Wow that's so much better than my early efforts, good job.
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May 13, 2015 13:51
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Ensign Expendable posted:Wow that's so much better than my early efforts, good job. Thanks! It started my love affair with WW2 armoured cars and cute tiny tanks:  1:48 Sd. Kfz. 222 and Panzer II by Tamiya, lovely beginner kits.
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May 13, 2015 14:34
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Yeah, I built a Tamiya SdKfz 222 and PzII as some of my early kits. The 222 was the expensive photo etch/metal parts version and I didn't really do it justice. The 221 I made recently looks infinitely better.
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May 13, 2015 14:37
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Sanguine posted:That is awesome! I had no idea you could get such a small mill. I've been dreaming of a hobby room setup for when I get my new joint, and that is drat sexy. If you have more money than I do, and want the really awesome stuff, check out this company - http://www.sherline.com/ They are the gold standard.
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May 13, 2015 17:58
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Anyone have any idea where to get thin mesh wire? I'm looking to do HESCO barriers in 1/72nd so I need a really fine mesh.
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May 14, 2015 03:53
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Check a fabric supply store. I know for my N scale fencing I use a wedding veil fabric, it's actually about perfect for HO scale chain-link but it's the finest they make so has to be good enough for me. I'm sure I've seen various sizes of square mesh too. Sewing/fabric places can often have some cool stuff. Do the math on about how big the mesh should be in your scale then show up with a little ruler and find a mesh fabric that is the right shape/size.
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May 14, 2015 03:56
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Arquinsiel posted:Anyone have any idea where to get thin mesh wire? I'm looking to do HESCO barriers in 1/72nd so I need a really fine mesh. How tall are the barriers? If it's an inch or less smoking pipe screens might fit the bill.
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May 14, 2015 04:05
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They end up being something like 15MM tall in the end. I will look into both of those options and see what works, thanks.
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May 14, 2015 04:13
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Raskolnikov38 posted:How tall are the barriers? If it's an inch or less smoking pipe screens might fit the bill. Out of curiosity, where the heck would you buy a smoking pipe screen?
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May 14, 2015 17:00
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Nebakenezzer posted:Out of curiosity, where the heck would you buy a smoking pipe screen?
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May 14, 2015 17:02
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Nebakenezzer posted:Out of curiosity, where the heck would you buy a smoking pipe screen? Amazon sells packs of 100 for less than 5 bucks. Also a pipe shop if you want to overpay.
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May 14, 2015 17:06
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Arquinsiel posted:Pipe shop, obviously. Is that a British thing?  Because in North America that is not a thing.
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May 14, 2015 19:02
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I dunno, I'm in Ireland. There's at least one in the city here, possibly more. It's not really the kind of thing I care about.
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May 14, 2015 19:07
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Tobacconists are things in north america. There's a few in town. Sell everything you need for the smoking lifestyle from pipes to cigars and a bunch of "mens" crap as well.
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May 14, 2015 19:09
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Nebakenezzer posted:Is that a British thing? They're called smoke shops here.
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May 14, 2015 19:11
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Nebakenezzer posted:Is that a British thing? There used to be a "Stag Tobaccanists" in every single mall in America. I haven't been to a mall in years, so I have no idea if it's still a thing.
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May 14, 2015 19:20
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Sorry, it's just that when Arquinsiel said "pipe shop" I was imagining a shop that just sold pipes and accessories and was taken aback
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May 14, 2015 23:24
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Actual pipe shops have great stuff for scratch building too. I got a bunch of 1.5" PVC pipe to make a grain silo out of.
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May 14, 2015 23:50
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Nebakenezzer posted:Out of curiosity, where the heck would you buy a smoking pipe screen? I remember the head shops used to sell screens for something like 25 cents each, but you could get the same screens in the plumbing aisle of the hardware store for 3 cents each. Every cent counted back in those days when I used to spend all my money on sink repairs.
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May 15, 2015 00:01
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Nebakenezzer posted:Sorry, it's just that when Arquinsiel said "pipe shop" I was imagining a shop that just sold pipes and accessories and was taken aback
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May 15, 2015 00:19
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SkunkDuster posted:I remember the head shops used to sell screens for something like 25 cents each, but you could get the same screens in the plumbing aisle of the hardware store for 3 cents each. Every cent counted back in those days when I used to spend all my money on sink repairs. I was also going to suggest faucet aerators but I think pipe screens are easier to get in bulk or my OSH and Home Depots just suck at carrying the former.
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May 15, 2015 01:44
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Arquinsiel posted:Anyone have any idea where to get thin mesh wire? I'm looking to do HESCO barriers in 1/72nd so I need a really fine mesh. I'm not sure how it slipped my mind this morning when I saw you post, but McMaster-Carr has you covered: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-mesh-filters/=x6mknd
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May 15, 2015 02:00
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm not sure how it slipped my mind this morning when I saw you post, but McMaster-Carr has you covered:
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May 15, 2015 02:18
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Can I complain about historical paint for a moment? I've started my Junkers 290.     [I kept the interior simple - I went totally overboard with the Fw 200 I made a few years ago, and you couldn't seen very much of that work after. So the interior is mostly stock, except for the cockpit seatbelts, which are Tamiya tape and a little leftover photoetch belts. So on the whole, it is going well. I think I've figured out a way the rear ramp can be stowed or deployed, so I'm excited about that. One slightly vexing problem is what the exterior is going to be. I wanted to make it look somewhat like this A-3, which was captured by the Allies in Saltzburg, Austria, in 1945.    I have the Revell 1/72 Ju 290, which I'm building as the A-7 version. The airplane above has the FAGr 5 paint job, with a distemper of black green over its hellblau sides. Anyway, the FAGr 5 paint job is somewhat unusual, as its base was standard seaplane colors. These are an underside of light blue, with the standard German splinter on top. The colors on the splinter job vary widely depending on who's doing the coloring. The instructions call out RLM 74 and 75 for the splinter, which the color key at the front say is "olive grey" and "mouse grey" respectively. This doesn't help too much, as these colors are sold by Revell in Europe, but not here. Because I'm far away from physical hobby shops, I often have to hunt down analogous colors from what brands are available. The scale model helper is, for once, not being very much help. RLM 75 by this site is a 'grey-violet' sorta shade, and RLM 74 just baffles it. And then other bits of the internet start having their say, and staunchly maintain that German seaplane splinter camo was done with RLM 72 (green) and 73 (another, different green, probably black green.). Via IPMS Stockholm, here is there swatch of the three colors in question. I've already made slightly-too-big brake lines. I may just look at many different shades for what they want, and see what pops for me. What do you gents think?
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May 15, 2015 04:05
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Nebakenezzer posted:I've started my Junkers 290. I did not know the Ju 290 had feelers like a giant insect! Looking good so far man. I don't do plastic, so I have no decent feedback for your question though.
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May 15, 2015 04:33
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Nebakenezzer posted:Can I complain about historical paint for a moment? It is utterly poo poo paint though TBH.
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May 15, 2015 05:36
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My theory on matching colours is as follows: Given; 1) It's hard enough to match colours today with handheld reflectance spectrophotmeters and other gadgets, 2) Under pressure all production facilities will cut corners, 3) Getting colours exact in WW2 production would not have been near the top of the priority list, 4) Even the spergiest of the sperg differ on what many of the actual shades were, 5) A monitor is going to regularly give false impressions, Close enough is not only good enough, but most likely quite accurate. If I'm honest this is probably just over justification of sloppiness. But it feels right, man. 
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May 15, 2015 09:05
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Paint Soviet hardware and accuse all complainers of defeatism, reactionism and sabotage of the glorious people's arms industry 
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May 15, 2015 09:18
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Sanguine posted:My theory on matching colours is as follows: There's been WW2 paint chat a few times, each time with people bringing up different points. Im too lazy to hunt down my post, so hopefuly im not just repeating myself. The short version is you're pretty much correct and not just rationalizing. In fact, it's even worse than that. From what I've read, German tanks (I don't know as much about planes) were shipped out in a base color, alongside cans of powder pigment, to be painted on arrival in whatever theater. This pigment was intended to be mixed with gasoline as a thinner (no, really), presumably to simplify logistics. Since German logistics were comically hosed, the schmucks in the field would supposedly use all kinds of things when gas was short, including used motor oil, diesel from captured Soviet tanks, and even water. This hosed up not only the initial color, but how quickly it faded over time. Combine this with the state of color photography at the time (and the fact that photos fade, as do museum pieces) and you get a situation where the best records of what colors poo poo actually was are frequently goddamn text descriptions. Anyone who claims that this exact shade is accurate but that one isn't is lying. Chaos reigns. Etc. Anyway, last time around this discussion ended with me resolving to paint a king tiger with ambush camo plaid. Still working on that because I got busy building two other tanks and the SDF Macross. 
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May 15, 2015 11:37
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