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10-400 dollars depending on size and complexity.
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May 2, 2015 02:47
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Mister Kingdom posted:I'm interested in 3D printing, but I don't think I can justify the expense. If I wanted to get someone to make some stuff for me, what can I expect to pay? It depends on what you're making and who's making it. In the city I live in, one of the local universities offers 3D printing services to the general public. They say >5 business days (most times it's sooner) and it's $0.08/gram, which I thought was pretty reasonable. For instance, this weighed 41g and I was charged $3.25 : http://imgur.com/a/uqV9K/
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May 2, 2015 18:51
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rt_hat posted:It depends on what you're making and who's making it. In the city I live in, one of the local universities offers 3D printing services to the general public. They say >5 business days (most times it's sooner) and it's $0.08/gram, which I thought was pretty reasonable. That's a goddamn steal 
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May 2, 2015 19:49
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The public library up the street from me bought a 5th gen Replicator around Christmas and is charging $1 per half hour, materials included. At that rate they'd have to run it continuously for like 37 workweeks to just break even on the printer price. It's sitting on the circulation desk right as you walk in, and every time I go there to get books with my kid it's sitting idle. I have yet to get PLA working working right on my R2X. I want to do more lost PLA casting this summer, but rather than spend the money on fan upgrades for the 2X, I'll just enjoy government subsidized PLA printing 
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May 2, 2015 20:08
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Bad Munki posted:Someone figure out how to print UHMW, tia. Minimum order is 750 rolls. Judging by the description (and the fact that it's on alibaba), I don't think it's actually UHMWPE, but I'd love to see someone buy several pallets worth just to try it out.
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May 2, 2015 22:25
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rt_hat posted:It depends on what you're making and who's making it. In the city I live in, one of the local universities offers 3D printing services to the general public. They say >5 business days (most times it's sooner) and it's $0.08/gram, which I thought was pretty reasonable. Using a makeshift scale, I figure the pieces I want made are about 2.5 grams each. I would need a few dozen, but they would need to be modified a bit to fit what I want to do. Thanks for the info, I'll check around.
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May 3, 2015 00:10
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My Printrbot Metal has been brilliant but the time has come for me to get something bigger. I've been eyeing their Metal Plus (off Amazon as their main site no longer has it a la carte) but I figured I'd better ask around a bit more before pulling the trigger. From what I've seen they have the best price for the 10x10x10 size at $999, anybody know of a better deal or is that the way to go?
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May 3, 2015 02:06
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Through The Decade posted:My Printrbot Metal has been brilliant but the time has come for me to get something bigger. I've been eyeing their Metal Plus (off Amazon as their main site no longer has it a la carte) but I figured I'd better ask around a bit more before pulling the trigger. From what I've seen they have the best price for the 10x10x10 size at $999, anybody know of a better deal or is that the way to go? From what I have seen it does look like the Metal Plus is going to be the best size per cost printer out right now, atleast at the 10x10x10 size. Personally if I can ever scrap together the cash I think I will get a TAZ 5 or the next model up from that.
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May 4, 2015 06:38
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We got the Flexystruder in last week for our Taz4. Ninjaflex is too much fun, I think I'm going to do everything in 'flex from now on. The stuff is just as strong and pliable as they show in the videos. I've got a little keychain ring thing that I print as a quick test, trying to break the ring part hurts me way before the ninjaflex gives up. After-hours job perhaps? http://www.dildo-generator.com/
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May 4, 2015 15:11
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IndianaZoidberg posted:From what I have seen it does look like the Metal Plus is going to be the best size per cost printer out right now, atleast at the 10x10x10 size. Personally if I can ever scrap together the cash I think I will get a TAZ 5 or the next model up from that. There's the i3v 12" model but that's a kit. deimos fucked around with this message at 16:21 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 4, 2015 16:16
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Dielectric posted:We got the Flexystruder in last week for our Taz4. Ninjaflex is too much fun, I think I'm going to do everything in 'flex from now on. The stuff is just as strong and pliable as they show in the videos. I've got a little keychain ring thing that I print as a quick test, trying to break the ring part hurts me way before the ninjaflex gives up. Make a post in SA Mart about selling costom, flexible dildo's.
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May 4, 2015 21:07
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One of my buddies already printed something from there It was the Thief piece for his custom Settlers of Catan board
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May 5, 2015 00:59
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ante posted:One of my buddies already printed something from there Yeah, the thief is kind of a dick.
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May 5, 2015 03:07
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Dielectric posted:We got the Flexystruder in last week for our Taz4. Ninjaflex is too much fun, I think I'm going to do everything in 'flex from now on. The stuff is just as strong and pliable as they show in the videos. I've got a little keychain ring thing that I print as a quick test, trying to break the ring part hurts me way before the ninjaflex gives up. Apparently, it also bonds well to ABS. On the Makergear forum, someone posted a simple thing printed with their dual V4 extruder using ABS and Ninjaflex. I've been interested in using Ninjaflex to print shock/vibration absorbing things into machine parts. With how strong you say it is, I'm also curious as to whether it could be used to print drive belts. Speaking of which, does anyone know of a good guide to dual-extruder modeling and printing?
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May 6, 2015 02:49
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Through The Decade posted:My Printrbot Metal has been brilliant but the time has come for me to get something bigger. I've been eyeing their Metal Plus (off Amazon as their main site no longer has it a la carte) but I figured I'd better ask around a bit more before pulling the trigger. From what I've seen they have the best price for the 10x10x10 size at $999, anybody know of a better deal or is that the way to go? I've been using a Rostock Max v2 for the past year and couldn't be happier. Has a huge build volume too. The only thing is it's kind of terrible with printing large ABS parts due to not having a heated chamber. Might be worth checking out if you don't mind delta's and not having a heated chamber.
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May 6, 2015 08:07
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Where is a good place to sell used 3d printers? I've got a Replicator 2X collecting dust now that I've got a Form 1+ and I can't really come up with anything to print where the Makerbot would be better.
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May 6, 2015 08:38
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Cockmaster posted:Speaking of which, does anyone know of a good guide to dual-extruder modeling and printing? Usually you just split the models then tell your slicer what model gets printed by what nozzle. Generally you want to avoid crossing boundaries and use a wipe tower/skirt (where the skirt gets printed as high as your model) so that oozing gets captured by the skirt/tower..
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May 6, 2015 17:43
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I tried using a gluestick again to help with adhesion to the print bed today, and it seems to be working wonderfully. I'm printing ABS at 210 C onto a bed heated to 80 C. My previous attempt at using a gluestick, I had used an "extra strength" gluestick on a glass bed. It worked so poorly, that after that print failed, my next print failed too. This time I did it on a PEI sheet with a regular glue stick. I don't think the PEI mattered much, I had just stuck some PEI to my glass plate in a previous attempt to get better adhesion (also worked poorly, the prints didn't stick at all). Until now, hairspray on glass had been my best option but still not super acceptable for prints longer than an hour or two.
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May 7, 2015 06:01
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Apparently, some people aren't satisfied just printing things with their 3D printers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5atWK_hKww
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May 7, 2015 14:14
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Wade Wilson posted:Apparently, some people aren't satisfied just printing things with their 3D printers. There are a ton of video out there with printers "playing" music. My only thought is that I don't think that is a good thing for the stepper motors.
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May 7, 2015 18:07
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IndianaZoidberg posted:My only thought is that I don't think that is a good thing for the stepper motors. I can't imagine why you would think that.
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May 7, 2015 18:12
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Bad Munki posted:I can't imagine why you would think that. Homeopathic tech support.
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May 7, 2015 20:37
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Here's my prusa 1 from 3yrs ago doing a song. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCZ76WJBuBw
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May 7, 2015 20:59
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I don't own a 3D printer, so I have no idea about quality here, but Inventables has all of their filament on clearance right now - some rolls as low as five bucks. https://www.inventables.com/categories/materials/3d-printer-filament insta posted:had* Wow, that went fast. Disregard! Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 8, 2015 |
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May 8, 2015 15:55
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had*
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May 8, 2015 17:48
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Can I get the thread's recommendations on a 3D printer in the ~$1500 range? I'm interested in getting one just to screw around with printing little plastic doodads. I know that any 3D printer is going to be a bit fiddly but I'd like to get an assembled one that's as un-fiddly / user friendly as possible in my price range, as opposed to building a kit and having to screw with it constantly. I'd also like to be able to print in both PLA and ABS. I have built a Shapeoko 2 CNC router before, so I have a little bit of experience with building / tweaking hobbyist CNC machines, but I have no prior experience with 3D printers or 3D printing. I've been looking at the Rostock Orion Delta, LulzBot Mini, and Printrbot Metal Plus. Any opinions on them, or recommendations on other printers that are around the same price which are user-friendly-ish, would be welcome. Also, is there anything else I should get along with a first 3D printer aside from filament?
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May 9, 2015 20:54
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Disregard all of those get an M2. Extras to get with the M2: spare nozzle (or the V4 upgrade), spare glass sheet, Aquanet #5 dollar-store hairspray.
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May 9, 2015 22:47
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insta posted:Disregard all of those get an M2. Get a Robo 3D R1 and order the E3D nozzles to experiment with out of the money saved buying the Robo instead of the M2 (the E3D nozzles will fit on the hotend the Robo uses for whatever reason without having to buy an actual E3D hotend). Then download and setup Cura or buy a Simplify 3D license and use that for the Robo instead (the latter software is great for ABS and PLA on the Robo, everything is pre-configured in the settings and it does support material better than Cura or the MatterControl software that comes with the Robo).
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May 10, 2015 03:37
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I lean towards machines that don't move the print at all these days and I like my Rostock Max a lot. Go for the Orion. edit: confused with different printer, my bad Obsurveyor fucked around with this message at 13:17 on May 10, 2015 |
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May 10, 2015 03:44
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Obsurveyor posted:The Robo 3D maker is actively user hostile from what I've read in the thread, I'd be very wary of them and suggest not supporting this kind of lovely behavior.
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May 10, 2015 06:20
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Yeah, you've got the wrong manufacturer there. The folks that make the Robo3d have the most helpful user forums I've run across.
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May 10, 2015 15:39
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Maybe he means the Robox and their DRM'd filament?
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May 10, 2015 16:51
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Anyone seen these all metal super cheap i3 clones? http://wanhaousa.com/products/duplicator-i3-steel-frame
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May 12, 2015 18:43
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peepsalot posted:Anyone seen these all metal super cheap i3 clones? From what I've read precision is a mixed bag and customer service nonexistant. So just about what you'd expect.
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May 12, 2015 18:50
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Yep, your 'factory warranty' is worthless. But it's an open source design with an active community so there's that. It's no more risk than buying a kit from ebay I suppose, so long as you buy it with that expectation then why not.
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May 12, 2015 21:52
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I'm excited to show off my very first print: They were printed on some of my local makerspace's Bukito Portables. The one on the left has a .3 mm layer thickness and the print on the right a .2 mm.
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May 13, 2015 05:27
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That's weird, because the one on the left looks better for some reason. Anybody here done any printing with ProtoPasta's Stainless Steel filament? I'm experimenting with it and getting frustrated with the filament snapping inside the extruder an hour into the print using their recommended temperatures/speeds (basically separating at the extruder gear and not printing any more while the printer carries on like nothing is wrong). I'll do calibration cubes and everything will be fine, but print something that takes longer than that and it goes to hell.
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May 13, 2015 16:38
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Fayez Butts posted:I'm excited to show off my very first print: If your description is correct, then it looks like overextrusion or some very weird ringing?
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May 13, 2015 16:51
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Is it at all possible to do with cooling and settling? I guess there shouldn't really be any settling, though, right?
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May 13, 2015 17:17
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Geirskogul posted:If your description is correct, then it looks like overextrusion or some very weird ringing? Banding like that is usually due to a mismatch between the layer height and the Z-axis steps/mm. This happens most often if using Imperial threaded rods with the (universally?) metric slicers and firmwares, but could from picking an improper layer height for that machine. For example, picking a 0.5mm layer height for a machine that has 0.2mm/step Z resolution will produce alternating layers of 0.4, 0.6, 0.4, 0.6, etc.
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May 13, 2015 19:43
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